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Old 07-10-2013, 06:02 PM   #16
ME 109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bikerfish View Post
a buddy and I had his tranny out in about 20-25 minutes, including beer breaks,
Oh, yeah, my 45 minutes included taking the tranny out of the wrong bike first.
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Old 07-10-2013, 06:08 PM   #17
airsmith
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yes, the first question should have been is the vent bolt a vent bolt or a bolt..
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Old 07-10-2013, 07:19 PM   #18
brocktoon OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airsmith View Post
yes, the first question should have been is the vent bolt a vent bolt or a bolt..
The bolt that holds the speedo cable in place? It's definitely a vent bolt. I cleaned it with a needle and some dental floss a couple of months ago when diagnosing another issue.
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Old 07-10-2013, 11:23 PM   #19
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Permatex ultra grey is your friend on cases/cover sealing surfaces.

I've also had good luck with (all I'm allowed to use at work) permatex super 300 brush on. I like to cut it with a bit of thinner, and it goes on smooth, and thin. Use it on all paper gaskets at the shop (vintage mercedes)
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Old 07-11-2013, 04:21 AM   #20
brittrunyon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by villageidiot View Post
Permatex ultra grey is your friend on cases/cover sealing surfaces.

I've also had good luck with (all I'm allowed to use at work) permatex super 300 brush on. I like to cut it with a bit of thinner, and it goes on smooth, and thin. Use it on all paper gaskets at the shop (vintage mercedes)
Wondering.................what do your thin it with?
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Old 07-11-2013, 04:59 AM   #21
Bill Harris
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I've been groused at by gurus, but I sometimes use the belt-and-suspender approach to gaskets and sealants. I rub a very faint amount-- like suntan lotion on your skin-- silicone sealant into the gasket. Rub it in with the thumb and index finger. The gasket does it's job and the sealant is a backup. And next time the part is disassembled, the sealant works as a release compound and the used gasket simply unpeels instead of needing to be scraped off.

Clean everything off and do the old talcum powder trick. Just to make sure it isn't leaking from somewhere else. Engines sometimes have "porous castings", so keep that in mind.

And again, the cover plate could be warped, so next step is to check that. Or seepgae from the clutch release assembly. Or a loose kickstart idler gear shaft (if you've got a kicker).

--Bill
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Old 07-11-2013, 06:26 AM   #22
villageidiot
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brittrunyon View Post
Wondering.................what do your thin it with?

Little bit of lacquer thinner, the brush on ultra 300 gets thick as the bottle gets used, so it doesn't lay as smooth/thin. Tiny bit of thinner and stir like hell makes it the good smooth consistency ya like to have.
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Old 07-11-2013, 06:50 AM   #23
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Like Bill said, I use an almost undetectable smear of silicone on the gasket.

We've had a couple of people break the shift spring while on a ride in the boonies. The answer (when you don't have any way to work on the transmission) is to pull the transmission, turn it upside down, shift into third (low enough to get going yet high enough to do a bit of speed), put the transmission back in and get home. We had one fellow that didn't have any tools at all, he took off the gas tank and as much gear as he could. He and his buddy turned the whole bike most of the way upside down and again, shifted into third then was able to ride home. I bet he never forgot that one.

Best way to pull the transmission, like has been said by others, is to move the swing arm back. The repair manuals had it wrong because they just repeated what had to be done on the /2s.
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Old 07-11-2013, 07:06 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pokie View Post
Like Bill said, I use an almost undetectable smear of silicone on the gasket.

We've had a couple of people break the shift spring while on a ride in the boonies. The answer (when you don't have any way to work on the transmission) is to pull the transmission, turn it upside down, shift into third (low enough to get going yet high enough to do a bit of speed), put the transmission back in and get home. We had one fellow that didn't have any tools at all, he took off the gas tank and as much gear as he could. He and his buddy turned the whole bike most of the way upside down and again, shifted into third then was able to ride home. I bet he never forgot that one.

Best way to pull the transmission, like has been said by others, is to move the swing arm back. The repair manuals had it wrong because they just repeated what had to be done on the /2s.




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Old 07-11-2013, 08:13 AM   #25
disston
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ME 109 View Post
Oh, yeah, my 45 minutes included taking the tranny out of the wrong bike first.
I did that once on an engine swap in an old beetle.
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Old 07-11-2013, 03:13 PM   #26
Bill Harris
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pokie View Post
Best way to pull the transmission, like has been said by others, is to move the swing arm back. The repair manuals had it wrong because they just repeated what had to be done on the /2s.
I have a "special tool" made of a 2x2 wooden block about 4" long with a shallow notch in each end. It goes between the swingarm and a lower frame crossmember and holds the loosened swingarm back and out of the way for gearbox removal.

Agreed, sometimes is seems that these repair manual writers may not have ever worked on the vehicle described.

--Bill
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Old 07-11-2013, 03:23 PM   #27
Airhead Wrangler
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Harris View Post
I have a "special tool" made of a 2x2 wooden block about 4" long with a shallow notch in each end.
Oooh. I like that idea. I'm going to make one of those.
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Old 07-11-2013, 06:17 PM   #28
Plaka
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Harris View Post
I have a "special tool" made of a 2x2 wooden block about 4" long with a shallow notch in each end. It goes between the swingarm and a lower frame crossmember and holds the loosened swingarm back and out of the way for gearbox removal.

Agreed, sometimes is seems that these repair manual writers may not have ever worked on the vehicle described.

--Bill
In some of the manuals they say they do...but only once, and not necessarily looking for the easy way.

With a rear drum brake, mark the brake rod and disconnect at the rear nut. With a rear disk, loosen the clamp on the reservoir a lot so it can pivot if you push the swingarm too far. I think the pedal can swing upwards to give an inch or two. Not sure. You have the mufflers off so the MC should be loose.
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Old 07-11-2013, 06:38 PM   #29
Bill Harris
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Airhead Wrangler View Post
Oooh. I like that idea. I'm going to make one of those.
I've got a rear main job upcoming and I'll snag a photo of the wooden block for the unitiated. If you've ever had the gearbox out, you'll know exactly what is should look like. If you've never had it out, it'll be mysterious.

--Bill
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Old 07-16-2013, 08:34 AM   #30
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I have not read the whole thread in depth. I have done this job only on a R100R.

With the above in mind, I can tell you that I used the "pull-the-engine-forward" method twice - nightmare.

On the advice of Anton, I left the engine in place and the job was much easier.
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