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Old 07-12-2013, 07:57 PM   #16
kubiak
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Joined: Nov 2007
Location: madera california
Oddometer: 4,799
Quote:
Originally Posted by kubiak View Post
Im not sure on that one but i bought the new stator from ricky stator and it came ready to bolt on with new windings and two new exciter coils. the exciter coil is what went bad on my xr. my stock xr stator had one exciter coil and i got the new one in the mail and it had two on it. i called them and they said bolt it on its the updated one. so i did and it was perfect.
my xr i did this on was a 89 xr600.
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Old 07-12-2013, 10:19 PM   #17
sintax
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Location: So.Cal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kubiak View Post
i got a 200 watt ricky stator for my old xr. the symtoms i was having was it would start in the morning no problem but after i stopped when it was hot it wouldnt restart till i let it cool down about an hour or so. it also had a low speed misfire. after the new stator everything was great.
Ya, gotta remember things expand and contract due to temp. This is really not that unusual for these types of components. Generally hard to troubleshoot for sure.
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Old 07-12-2013, 10:22 PM   #18
baachor OP
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Location: Costa Mesa,CA
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still researching .)

what it means "fuel screw out 1 1/2 to 1 3/4"?

also I remember I accidentally moved nut on needle jet holder while cleaning it first time few days ago,which could mess it up??? (reading it at the end of that link thread)

enough for today

any idea on what is that rusty tiny piece I found?
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Old 07-12-2013, 10:26 PM   #19
sintax
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Originally Posted by baachor View Post
Hi sintax,

it took me extra time as I couldn't unscrew the link arm screw,had to use Dremel (gotta need new screw in there)
So here we go:
1. manifold is unrestricted
2. jets are: pilot 68S, main 170,throttle needle in middle (3th) position,pilot screw in 7 full turns
3. spottles

I live in Costa Mesa. You are close

Thank You for helping,I appreciate it!



kubiak,
I'm actually in process of getting rewound one from BD as it is stock stator
So that would fix that if it is the issue.

Thanx

Well, good news it it looks like the carb is jetted correctly, or at least close enough to start with.

That part you piece you pulled out of the carb... i dont know where that could have come from. I'd say its good you have it out, foam like that would only continue to break down with contact to gas.

I'd toss that carb back on there and see what you get now. Report back what you find

Baja Designs rewound my stator. They do a great job and have some serious output. I'm not sure what BD does, but its a different wind then anyone else. They are the only one that requires modifying the stator housing due to the size of the windings.

BD should be able to verify functionality of your stator as well.
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Old 07-12-2013, 10:29 PM   #20
sintax
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another random thought i just had...

The carb has an idle screw that raises and lowers the idle. You want to have the bike idle around 1400 rpm. With too low of a idle setting, it can effect the starting, as well as give you issues with the dying at stop signs and dying after wacking the throttle
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Old 07-12-2013, 10:45 PM   #21
baachor OP
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I wonder if that rusty piece is the one that is now missing.Between needle jet and needle jet holder.

I will put it all together tomorrow afternoon,can't wait

Quote:
Originally Posted by sintax View Post
Well, good news it it looks like the carb is jetted correctly, or at least close enough to start with.

That part you piece you pulled out of the carb... i dont know where that could have come from. I'd say its good you have it out, foam like that would only continue to break down with contact to gas.

I'd toss that carb back on there and see what you get now. Report back what you find
I might want ot try that too.

What about those fuel screw turns out? which one is that fuel screw? (sorry this is my 1st carburator dissasembly )

What about pilot screw I found it was 7 full turns in (or out).Is it that fuel screw? confused

Thanks for helping

Quote:
Originally Posted by sintax View Post
another random thought i just had...

The carb has an idle screw that raises and lowers the idle. You want to have the bike idle around 1400 rpm. With too low of a idle setting, it can effect the starting, as well as give you issues with the dying at stop signs and dying after wacking the throttle
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Old 07-12-2013, 11:55 PM   #22
cognugget
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Check the condition of the seal in your petcock.
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Old 07-14-2013, 06:19 PM   #23
baachor OP
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it's all good now :-)

thanx sintax and cognugget,

I put it all together and everything is fine now.

Summary I did(found):

CARB
-cleaning all jets,etc.
-fuel screw 1 3/4 turns out
-checked float 16mm
-main jet 170
-pilot jet 68S
-needle jet holder: with the needle/needle jet in place screw it in until it lightly seats,tight lock nut

PETCOCK
-seal in petcock had bit of rubber left over peaces - removed

VALVE adjusted

Learned a lot!

Thank You for helping

Now stock stator ready to be shipped for rewinding at BD together with side case for modification.After that it will be another story

baachor screwed with this post 07-14-2013 at 09:18 PM Reason: fix
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Old 07-14-2013, 10:31 PM   #24
cognugget
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Get this seal, the diameter is smaller but it works perfect.


http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detai...5-268-020.html
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Old 07-15-2013, 03:43 PM   #25
baachor OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cognugget View Post
Get this seal, the diameter is smaller but it works perfect.


http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detai...5-268-020.html
Thanks,it's on my list
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Old 07-15-2013, 04:11 PM   #26
sintax
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baachor View Post
thanx sintax and cognugget,

I put it all together and everything is fine now.

Summary I did(found):

CARB
-cleaning all jets,etc.
-fuel screw 1 3/4 turns out
-checked float 16mm
-main jet 170
-pilot jet 68S
-needle jet holder: with the needle/needle jet in place screw it in until it lightly seats,tight lock nut

PETCOCK
-seal in petcock had bit of rubber left over peaces - removed

VALVE adjusted

Learned a lot!

Thank You for helping

Now stock stator ready to be shipped for rewinding at BD together with side case for modification.After that it will be another story
You rock man.

Great work
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Old 07-15-2013, 05:45 PM   #27
baachor OP
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Originally Posted by sintax View Post
You rock man.

Great work
Thanks sintax

Can't wait for stator. Found out today that they are doing it differently now,no need for case modification. We'll see

Maybe one day when it is all ready I'll PM you and we could go riding up in a mountains,if you'd want. My good friend has 650L. I've heard another guy is buying L
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Old 07-15-2013, 08:49 PM   #28
sintax
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Just one more thing i'd like to add to this....

If the gas in the tank is older than 2 weeks, just drain it and put it into your car.

I just spent about 8 hrs troubleshooting a similar problem, bike just ran shitty. Did the same drill I sent you to do 2 times.

Ended up being 4 week old gas.... Bike would hardly run on it. Drained, put fresh fuel in and it ran great.

Life lessons folks.
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Old 07-15-2013, 08:51 PM   #29
sintax
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Originally Posted by baachor View Post
Thanks sintax

Can't wait for stator. Found out today that they are doing it differently now,no need for case modification. We'll see

Maybe one day when it is all ready I'll PM you and we could go riding up in a mountains,if you'd want. My good friend has 650L. I've heard another guy is buying L
Sure man. I'm not a huge fan of the hills behind us, just too many people hiking and biking up there. Huge risk of hitting people, and you really just cant ride all that well.

I'd rather do some Cleghorn road to Arrowhead or big bear. I'm currently prepping for the TAT this summer, so i might not be doing anything too crazy till after that though.
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Old 07-16-2013, 01:33 AM   #30
Sean-0
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adjust your float level to 18mm 16mm is not enough .......its common knowledge
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