|01-31-2014, 05:31 PM||#16|
Joined: Jan 2012
Location: somerset nj
I have a air cooled 175 does any one know if switching out the silencer for a slip on fmf unit will make a difference or am I wasting my time n money doing so?
|03-27-2014, 05:34 PM||#17|
Joined: Mar 2014
Hi, I just joined the forum when I saw there was an active DT200 thread! Mine's an '85 with 21,000km on the clock but has been in the shed for 10 years. I pulled it out last week and moved it into the garage to go over it and see what it might need.
My son rode it last and it quit on him so I just put it in the shed and let it leak oil all over the place, so I don't know what it might need. I have found that info on these bikes is hard to find. I bought the Yamaha manual when I bought the bike in '03, but the pics aren't great so I'll be asking a few questions , no doubt!
I'd like to figure out Yamaha's parts codes because I've found very similar part numbers for the IT200 and the YFS200. Any thoughts?
|03-27-2014, 08:43 PM||#18|
Joined: Mar 2012
Location: Montreal, Canada
You can setill buy all the parts from a Canadian dealer.
What kind off oil is it leaking? gear oil ? or two stroke oil?
If it only leaks when the motor is running look at the crank seals.
Tent space is where you make it
2012 Versys 1000
Tour of the American West 2013
|03-28-2014, 02:27 AM||#19|
Joined: Nov 2010
The DT-200R engine, up to and including 1988, is similar to the YFS-200 Blaster ATV engine, with the YFS-200 missing the liquid cooling and electric YPVS power valve.
The only thing in common with the IT-200 engine is the diameter of the bore and the physical appearance of the finning on the cylinder and cylinder head.
These engines are as different as can be:
The front sprocket and clutch assembly are on opposite sides, the IT-200 has no rotating counterbalancer, and the general architecture of the IT-200 engine has it's crankcase being smaller than the DT-200R or YFS-200 engine.
The IT-200 design comes from the 1980 YZ-125G.
I would also order my parts from a bona-fide Yamaha motorcycle dealer, and would only look elsewhere if a part were discontinued and no longer available from a Yamaha dealer.
I feel the genuine Yamaha Service Manuals are the best ones for the bike.
The typical Yamaha part number is written as so:
When comparing Yamaha part numbers to see what will fit what, you need to take note of the first eight digits, at least.
Just looking at the middle five won't cut it because two part numbers having -23145- in it will only tell you that both are fork oil seals and they could be for different bikes with different dimensions.
In other words, the fork oil seals of a 1977 DT-100D would not fit a 2002 YZ-250FP, would they?
Yet, they both share the same middle five digits of -23145- .
The first three digits of a part number are the model code.
Every Yamaha motorcycle, ATV, or scooter has a model code assigned to it.
The 1988 YFS-200U was 2XJ.
The 1984 IT-200L was 43G.
The 1980 YZ-125G was 3R3.
Whenever a part appears for the first time, it will forever more use the model code for the bike it first appeared on.
So, it the fork oil seals that were first used a 1977 DT-100D were used on a 2014 model, the part number would start with the same three digits.
YZEtc screwed with this post 03-28-2014 at 02:34 AM
|03-28-2014, 04:25 PM||#20|
Joined: Mar 2014
Thanks for the replies, I can see this is the place to get good info! Thanks,YZEtc, for straightening me out about the part numbers. It's good to hear that parts are still available for this bike, 'cause I'm going to need a few!
Had a chance today to chase down the oil leak - I took off the skid plate and took a look at the cases. It appeared the oil was coming from the case seam in the crankcase area-oh, oh. So I cleaned the area well and took a pic:
the top of the pic is up toward the exhaust.
I let it sit for about 5 min. and took another pic:
you can see the oil starting to seep out.
Two hours later another pic:
a few more hours and that drop will hit the floor! It's been doing that for almost ten years! I took a piece of clean white paper and touched it to the drop to ensure it's oil and not solvent from my cleaning and it had the viscosity of oil and the same colour as the injector oil.
I noticed it's quite oily where the oil line runs into the intake so it would appear the oil has been running in there, filling the crankcase. I haven't checked the manual yet, but is there a check valve in the pump to prevent this? Irregardless, I have a case leak!! I hope to do a pressure test if only to know how much that leak will show up in terms of pressure loss.
Next problem is there is no spark. This is what brought the bike to a halt 10 years ago. I've found the flowchart for fault finding the ignition and will have a go at that in the near future. I had to re-splice all the wires in the harness at the steering head years ago because of a number of opens. I soldered all the joints but will have to verify continuity every step of the way.
One more problem is 6th gear - it's not there! Just a big old neutral where it used to be! Shifting while not running doesn't seem great and I remember now that the transmission did sound 'loose' when in 6th - hard to describe, just didn't sound good. I've never split cases so if you can give advice, please do.
|03-28-2014, 08:14 PM||#21|
no inline fours
Joined: Oct 2010
Location: Fantasy, I mean Vancouver Island
This species has amused itself to death
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