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Old 07-20-2013, 03:38 PM   #1
dongie OP
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Fan not working on a 950

Hey guys, I wondered if any of you had an input to my issue.

My 950 overheated and puked out a ton of coolant on a fairly hot day, after I ran it hard through the gears almost all the way to red line a few times. Maybe a 5min. ride. Quite strange if you ask me.
I noticed that, despite the high engine temp, the fan wasn't on. I filled the cooling system back up and bled it as good I could. I also replaced the thermo switch (with the stock temp unit) as I expected that to be the culprit.
I started the bike up, let it warm up to 5 bars, and the fan is still not kicking in.
The fuse is fine and the fan works if I jump the connection in the fan plug.

What gives?

dongie screwed with this post 07-20-2013 at 06:13 PM
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Old 07-20-2013, 05:32 PM   #2
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Try checking the wiring. Continuity between the fuse and the fan connector or even closer to the fan itself, check for 12v. Continuity between the thrmo swithch and the fan- brown-black wire. Check that the thermo switch wiring has continuity to ground- brown wire.
Also, it might be good to double check that the thermo switch is coovered with coolant and that the switch is good. You can check the switch by covering it with boiling water and checking for continuity between the wire blades.
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Old 07-20-2013, 06:20 PM   #3
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Correct me if I'm wrong, but if the problem was in wiring, the fan would not turn on when I simulate a closed thermo switch by jumping the wires between the fan and the thermo switch. It works when I do so.
I just installed a brand new switch and the issue wasn't solved.
I bled the cooling system with the front wheel almost 2' in the air and the radiator seems to be full of fluid with no air bubbles. I squeezed the left rad hose a few times also.
The water pump is about 5k miles old and the oil is coolant-free. The head nut washer upgrade was done about a year ago also.
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Old 07-20-2013, 09:10 PM   #4
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Your first post indicated that you jump the fan connector not the thermo switch. It is a basic electric circuit without any electronic components. It constantly hot when ignition switch is on. the thermo switch is switching the earth wire. So, follow the V and the earth when the bike is hot. check the new thermo switch for continuity when you have 5 bars. make sure none of the connectors is corroded or has broken or bent pins.
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Old 07-21-2013, 09:06 AM   #5
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Where is the water temp sensor located? Is it wired into the engine or into the radiator?

I wonder if a bad thermostat would keep hot water circulating inside the engine and not allowing it cool off in the rad. If the temp sensor is in the engine, maybe the coolant in the rad doesn't get hot enough to trigger the fan?

I guess it would help to let the engine heat up to 5/6 bars and check if the fan thermo switch is closing like you suggested.
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Old 07-27-2013, 01:03 PM   #6
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Just replaced the thermostat and bled the system again. The fan is still not coming on
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Old 07-27-2013, 01:08 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dongie View Post
Just replaced the thermostat and bled the system again. The fan is still not coming on
Do you have a multi meter that can measure DC volts?
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Old 07-27-2013, 01:16 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by Head2Wind View Post
Do you have a multi meter that can measure DC volts?
A friend of mine is coming with one in a few hrs. I'm going to get the bike to 5 bars and see if the switch is closing.
Do you suggest checking anything else?
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Old 07-27-2013, 02:09 PM   #9
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As previously stated by someone else, with the ignition in a ON state, there should be battery vdc present if measured from on the POS of the fan terminals to the battery neg post. If running a standard fan thermo switch, the displayed bars (5^) will be required before the switch will close circuit (completing the GND circuit in this situation). If the bat VDC is there at the harness when sign swt is on, then the GND connection to the fan system is faulty. Quick way to test this is unplug thermo swt, and with ign on, then jumper between terminals on the thermo swt harness plug. Fan should run.

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Old 07-27-2013, 03:31 PM   #10
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Probably off topic, but I know that there is a temp sensor on the rear jug. I learned about it after ripping the wiring out of it while removing the engine. Does anyone know how this temp sensor interacts with the system?
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Old 07-27-2013, 04:22 PM   #11
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The sensor at the rear cylinder is for the gauge on the dash, nothing to do with the fan control

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Old 07-27-2013, 04:49 PM   #12
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Does my issue have something to do with coolant circulation then? We just tested the switch by heating it up over a stove and it did close the circuit at somewhere around 220-250 degrees.
It just seems that the engine can get so hot it boils over but the coolant is still bellow 220 degrees?
I just got it to 6 bars on the dash, with the coolant slowly starting to trickle from the overflow and the fan didn't move.

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Old 07-27-2013, 05:14 PM   #13
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Bleed the circuit and add a new radiator cap. If the system is not pressurised enough the coolant just starts to boil while the thermoswitch is not getting enough heat to trigger operation and close the electrical circuit.
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Old 07-27-2013, 05:34 PM   #14
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I installed a new cap last year and it still looks like new..
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Old 07-28-2013, 08:56 AM   #15
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Water pump not working properly? I tried to bleed the system twice with the front wheel up and I'm pretty sure there shouldn't much if any air in the system.
Which brings me to a question - if the thermoswitch was okay, how come the bike boiled over so quickly in the first place? It ran perfectly fine for about a year since the last water pump rebuild and cooling system bleeding
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