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Old 07-28-2013, 09:22 AM   #16
nomad guy
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How fast does it takes your bike to get 4 bars? on a normal idling bike it should take a few minutes.
In regard to the thermo switch, after you confirmed that switch itself is working fine and you have continuity from the switch to the fan, you need to confirm you have continuity from the brown wire of the switch to ground.
The only way to eliminate an electric problem is going through the whole circuit methodically.
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Old 07-28-2013, 09:26 AM   #17
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Oh, one more thing. Test the switch in boiling water not over a stove. The standard switch should close at ~216F/102C.
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Old 07-28-2013, 09:27 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nomad guy View Post
How fast does it takes your bike to get 4 bars? on a normal idling bike it should take a few minutes.
In regard to the thermo switch, after you confirmed that switch itself is working fine and you have continuity from the switch to the fan, you need to confirm you have continuity from the brown wire of the switch to ground.
The only way to eliminate an electric problem is going through the whole circuit methodically.
It takes a while for the bike to warm up to 4 bars, certainly a few minutes just like it always has.
I didn't check the continuity but if the circuit was broken, I believe jumping the connection in the switch socket would not turn the fan on? The fan does turn on when I jump the connection and bypass the switch. The fuse as also working properly as taking it out kills the fan (when running).
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Old 07-28-2013, 09:54 AM   #19
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Regarding issues that are not the fan, when the bike reaches 5 bars jump the thermo switch and let the fan run continually and observe if the bike manages to keep a steady temp, thus eliminating other cooling issues.
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Old 07-28-2013, 10:00 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by nomad guy View Post
Regarding issues that are not the fan, when the bike reaches 5 bars jump the thermo switch and let the fan run continually and observe if the bike manages to keep a steady temp, thus eliminating other cooling issues.
It should be able to cool itself back to 4 bars while idling with the fan on, correct?
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Old 07-28-2013, 10:10 AM   #21
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Yep. It should keep it between 4-5 bars. With the lower temp switch, which you dont have, it should keep it at 4 bars.
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Old 07-28-2013, 10:47 AM   #22
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Well, here are my observations:
I started with a cool bike. Started it up and let it run until 5 bars were showing on the dash. Strangely, the at this point, the rad was still cold to touch. Definitely not at 216F where the switch should be closing.
When I kept the bike running with the fan on, the temperature still wasn't going down.
Should I inspect the water pump next? Bleed the system differently?
It seems that it's not circulating properly..
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Old 07-28-2013, 11:36 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dongie View Post
Well, here are my observations:
I started with a cool bike. Started it up and let it run until 5 bars were showing on the dash. Strangely, the at this point, the rad was still cold to touch. Definitely not at 216F where the switch should be closing.
When I kept the bike running with the fan on, the temperature still wasn't going down.
Should I inspect the water pump next? Bleed the system differently?
It seems that it's not circulating properly..

This would seem to indicate a stuck thermostat (the black T thingy on the right side between the engine, water pump and the radiator). The other possibility is that the water pump impeller has failed in some fashion.
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Old 07-28-2013, 11:40 AM   #24
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Just found my answer:

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Old 07-28-2013, 12:29 PM   #25
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As I expected, the inner snap ring on the water pump shaft popped off.
The driving shaft is not looking very happy. Any way to replace it without splitting the cases? I could probably just file down the worn out edges and run it but I can tell from the discoloration it heated up pretty good.

*edit: Found some helpful info on the balancer shaft here: http://www.ktm950.info/how/Orange%20...ise/noise.html


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Old 07-28-2013, 07:10 PM   #26
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Good job . Now its just a matter of fixing it.
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Old 07-28-2013, 07:14 PM   #27
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Yeah, I sure hope the balancer shaft doesn't need to be replaced! Looks like quite a task.
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Old 07-28-2013, 09:23 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dongie View Post
As I expected, the inner snap ring on the water pump shaft popped off.
The driving shaft is not looking very happy. Any way to replace it without splitting the cases? I could probably just file down the worn out edges and run it but I can tell from the discoloration it heated up pretty good.

*edit: Found some helpful info on the balancer shaft here: http://www.ktm950.info/how/Orange%20...ise/noise.html

Do you have another picture of the end of the shaft, close up? I'd seriously consider leaving it as it is, perhaps break some of the sharp edges from the misalignment and run it.

Do you know how this failure came about?
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Old 07-29-2013, 05:43 AM   #29
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I can take another photo later.
I will carefully clean up the end of the shaft, install a new WP shaft with new circlips and seals, and see how much engagement I get.

Since the water pump had worked great since the last rebuild about a year ago (5k or so miles), I have to assume the circlip came off during a short spirited ride from work two weeks ago. The bike overheated (for the first time since I've owned it) so I immediately shut it down. I bet the circlip, for whatever reason, came off at high revs during this ride. I am 99% positive it was seated properly when I rebuilt the water pump. I always take my time with engine work. The circlip was intact as I took the WP off. It was sitting loosely on the pump shaft.
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Old 07-29-2013, 07:54 AM   #30
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Just FYI. I believe the balancer shaft can be pulled without splitting cases. You do have to remove the flywheel on the other side to get the gear off that drives the balancer shaft, though.
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