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Old 11-24-2013, 02:28 PM   #151
violetpop OP
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I'm just trying to get my head around how is go about changing it. I'm also away from the bike but when it's back I plan to do a top end rebuild so while I'm working on it, I will have a proper look at the rear seal. Thanks for the sharp eyes and information gents!
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Old 11-24-2013, 03:43 PM   #152
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If you can pull that center part (the guide ring) straight back through the seal, you should be OK. The seal is meant to fit over it, so it should fit over it backward as well. Then push the guide ring back into place and the seal lip will be correct. Obviously you'd want to take a good look at it when you have the chance.

Yes, you should block the crank to make sure it does not move forward. If you never had the guide ring off, the crank has probably not moved forward yet. If it had, you'd have trouble turning the crank after you tightened the flywheel bolts.
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Old 11-24-2013, 03:56 PM   #153
Kai Ju
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question for Anton

When I was working on these for a living I was taught that the inside seal lip is to be installed dry, as is the mating surface on the guide ring/flywheel. The explanation given was that the Teflon applied to the seal would transfer to the mating surface forming a Teflon to Teflon wear surface. If the seal or mating surface was lubed that transfer would not take place, hence the dry installation.
Consequently I've always installed these seals dry on the inside lip with a bit of lube around the perimeter of the seal to ease installation.

True or false ?

To the OP, if you are going to reuse the RMS, gently flip the seal lip forward before you slide the guide ring back on.
As Anton already mentioned, that guide ring needs to come off straight or it'll cock on the crank and become a bit of a bear to remove. ( There are so many double entendres in this last sentence it's scary...)
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Old 11-24-2013, 04:04 PM   #154
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One more to the OP.

Interesting subframe solution but I'm surprised that the upper two rails were attached to the original mounts, it might have looked a bit cleaner if it were attached like the lower rails. ( BTW, that's merely my opinion and it's not my bike or build. Furthermore I really hate it when total strangers spout their opinions on my builds, so just tell me to F off )
I do like the X bracing, haven't seen that one before. Will the tail section/hump follow the contour of the subframe ?

Having said all that, I really like where you're going with this bike. Looking forward to seeing it progress.
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Old 11-25-2013, 02:23 AM   #155
violetpop OP
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Thanks mate, your information will come in handy down the track when I strip the job again and do it properly!

I totally see where you're coming from on the subframe and was thinking exactly the same thing just the other day. In saying that, that part of the subframe will be hidden by the cowl it self.

Yes, the cowl will under go a slight trim towards the back (to show off the rear section of the subframe) and will follow the lines of the frame. We used the same cowl that the fabricator used on a cb750 he built for himself. When I was at the shop, he pulled it off his bike to see how it looked and it got well straight off the bat. This a a poor picture to show the cowl but it's still a pretty impressive motorcycle. Thanks for the kinds words mate! Should be an interesting bike once done. Might not be everyones cup of tea but thats ok, ill enjoy it.

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Old 11-25-2013, 02:35 AM   #156
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Yo Kai Ju i forgot i did not put a picture with the cowl at all so here is one, hope it gives a better idea! So just above to top shock mount it will be trimmed to be straight and take that slight curve out and then at the back it will be trimmed to partially show off the rear frame. The rear of the tank has also been raised about in inch.

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Old 11-25-2013, 12:32 PM   #157
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I actually like the curve on the front of the tail section. The way I look at is that the bottom of the tank isn't straight either and the way it looks to me you have a gentle wave that starts at the rear of the tail and blends into the contour of the tank. If it were mine (here we go again) I'd leave it the way it is.

Here is a link for your builder in regards to the VTR in the back ground:
http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=578094
go to post #12 to see my interpretation of a VTR.
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Old 11-28-2013, 08:56 PM   #158
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kai Ju View Post
I actually like the curve on the front of the tail section. The way I look at is that the bottom of the tank isn't straight either and the way it looks to me you have a gentle wave that starts at the rear of the tail and blends into the contour of the tank. If it were mine (here we go again) I'd leave it the way it is.

Here is a link for your builder in regards to the VTR in the back ground:
http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=578094
go to post #12 to see my interpretation of a VTR.
Yeah I hear what you're saying and you know what the problem is, you me, someone else, the neighbour would do it all differently many time over. I'm just going on the fly, a way which looks good and works! Other wise I'll be scratching my head unable to make a decision.

In regards to the vtr... Great bike! I had one also in red.. Kept it fairly stock but clean... Really nice bike and my only grip would be the super soft front end. Nothing some fork springs and oil wouldn't fix though!
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Old 11-28-2013, 09:03 PM   #159
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Some more updates.







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Old 11-28-2013, 10:11 PM   #160
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NICE!

Are the tips going to exit through the rear cowl? Thats different and should look great.

And is that a hotdog as a muffler? She's gunna be loud!
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Old 11-29-2013, 06:32 AM   #161
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Originally Posted by violetpop View Post
Some more updates.



Shit hot mate . nice one.
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Old 11-29-2013, 05:39 PM   #162
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i like the your exhaust set up. i have had ideas for doing it the same way. only difference would be the exhaust tip.

this will be your friend. VVV it will keep your glass seat pan from melting.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mi...FdGUfgodByAALg
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Old 11-29-2013, 11:42 PM   #163
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i like the your exhaust set up. i have had ideas for doing it the same way. only difference would be the exhaust tip.

this will be your friend. VVV it will keep your glass seat pan from melting.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mi...FdGUfgodByAALg
That's looks like a great product. I was also thinking of using a layer of "fat matt" or "dyna matt" or something to that extent. I've always toyed with the idea of heat shields welded to the exhaust but I think it will be use less. Once it's hot, it's hot. Thanks for the heads up!
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Old 11-30-2013, 04:15 AM   #164
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@ violetpop, would you mind sharing the "how to" on your rear subframe fabrication and exhaust?
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Old 11-30-2013, 06:09 PM   #165
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Originally Posted by violetpop View Post
That's looks like a great product. I was also thinking of using a layer of "fat matt" or "dyna matt" or something to that extent. I've always toyed with the idea of heat shields welded to the exhaust but I think it will be use less. Once it's hot, it's hot. Thanks for the heads up!
I've had good luck with this material on my truck. With this material you would apply it to the bottom of the seat pan. I don't think sound deadening material would withstand the heat.
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