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Old 12-20-2013, 09:05 PM   #211
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Originally Posted by uraberg View Post
I've always wondered if it is possible to ride all the way past Inuvik to Reindeer station? (I've got it on the brain as well). Would you mind checking it out?
Hmm, looks like it's probably 60kms of ruts.. Sorry, I did my best! This was the "Navy Road", not sure how far it goes... I've been suffering through Ice Road Truckers to see their Inuvik episodes, and it looks like the start of the winter road is by the GSI Mariner (the big ship near where I got stuck). They drive by Reindeer Station on the river, so not sure if it's a go in the summer.


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Old 12-31-2013, 11:13 AM   #212
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Are you stuck?

Hey man...where'd you go?...did you try to ride that road anyway and are still stuck?...that would suck, bet it's a touch chilly there now! Look forward to seeing more of your report when you can post...Happy New Year!
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Old 02-11-2014, 09:31 PM   #213
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Hey, Happy New Year indeed! Just had to take a break from the report, Christmas was busy, and I've been pounding the pavement looking for a job..... I guess that's dampened my mood for writing a bit.
There's still a long ways to go in the report, and I want to do it well, so I'm not rushing. I can only do it justice when I'm in the mood for writing and have time. Thanks for waiting.
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Old 02-11-2014, 09:49 PM   #214
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About an hour out of town, and my eyes were already starting to get heavy. I was not in great shape after only 3 hours sleep and after all of the labor involved in getting unstuck! Nonetheless, it was dry and the road was fast, hard packed dirt. The speed limit was 90 kph, as it was on most of the Dempster. 90 to 100kph seemed easy on the tires I chose. The last corner before the ferry had a 20 kph speed limit, and after150 kms of straight as arrow roads, It might take you by surprise! The ferry was busy on the other side when I arrived. The day was already plenty warm, so I took off some layers, and opened some vents. So this is summer in the north! I think I got lucky!




While waiting, a truck pulled up. Two people came out, and greeted me. They were friendly and asked the usual questions.


The driver's name was Joe Linklater. It turned out he is the Chief of a fly in town called Old Crow, northwest of Dawson." I think I've got a card" he says, "here ya go, it's got our website on it."




"Oh yeah? I met a couple from Old Crow this morning!"


"What were their names, I bet I know them."


I forgot their names, but I told Joe that they were talking about going to Vancouver.


"Oh yeah, I bet that's ole Danny (so and so) He's been talking about going down south! You've come a long ways eh? You kind of look like you're in la la land!"

"Yes, it was a bit of a long night! I hope I can make it to Eagle Plains, I didn't fill up every gas can."

"You'll make it, there's gas in Fort Mcpherson."


"But I thought we passed it already."


"What? Didn't you see it on the way up?? How could you miss it?! Well, It's between the river crossings, the turn off is to the right."


Somehow I missed it on the way in!..I did look, but I never clued in to where it was on the way in. I guess I should have looked at the map! Maybe I was preoccupied with trying to catch the next ferry with all the lost time.


"Aah the Louis Cardinal crosses the mighty Mackenzie!" Joe said.


It certainly is a mighty river. It is the largest I have ever been on by a long shot. A quick stop in Tsiigehtchic to load a few pickups, and we made the final trip to the south bank of the river.


We made the landing, said goodbye, and I got waved ahead of the pickup trucks.
More fast dirt. Watching my mirrors, I saw one of the trucks creeping closer in the distance. I wanted to try to stay ahead, but looking down at the dash, I decided that trying to keep ahead at 105 kph was not in my best interest! I slowed down to around 80, and waved the truck by. I fueled up in Fort Mcpherson, and continued on to the Peel River crossing.




You wouldn't think that it would be possible to fall asleep behind the bars, but that's the feeling that I was starting to get. It really was a struggle keeping my eyes open.My first clue was when suddenly a jolt from some bumps I didn't see suddenly got my attention! Ok, first chance I get to pull over, I will, I told myself. There really was no safe place to stop with 15 foot deep ditches on either side of me. All I could do was sing "Stay awake stay awake, stay awaake!!" Once I started climbing into the hills, I found a brake check pull off beside a creek.

I got off, stretched out and ate some snacks, walked down the bank, and decided it was a good spot to rest. I didn't want passers by to see a biker horizontal in plain view of the road The water was grey with sediment, and freezing cold. I took the opportunity to wash out my muddy jeans and socks before attempting to nod off in the sun.






An hour or so later I packed up and hit the road again. while it felt good to relax and close my eyes, I wasn't getting a wink of sleep on the jagged shale. I only rode for another hour, maybe hour and a half before finding a nice spot by another creek to try and sleep. I looked around for animal signs, just to be safe. It seemed alright, so I laid down beside my bike with my helmet and gear on, and closed my eyes. This time, I managed to catch maybe an hour of actual sleep. I felt so much better!

And then I found these, about ten feet from where I slept.... The feeling was "Again? I don't even care anymore!" I could die from not sleeping too, and still get eaten!


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Old 02-11-2014, 10:28 PM   #215
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Great report! I got a late start so I've been playing catch up. Looking forward to more.
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Old 02-11-2014, 10:35 PM   #216
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whew

BEAR TRACKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!

OMG, I might not sleep now!
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Old 02-12-2014, 09:03 AM   #217
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Good to see you back to finish your RR. I'm sure many have been waiting patiently as I have. Hope your job search has turned out well too. I know that after an amazing adventure like yours, it seems surreal to be home and feels unsettling as we adjust to the so called 'normal daily life'. Oh to be back on the road again!!
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Old 02-12-2014, 09:28 AM   #218
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Excellent R/R!!!! I've done the trip twice now and going back this summer.....I love the far north and your R/R is what the dr. ordered during the dull months at the moment! cain fever is in full swing here now. Love your pics and I have been down that trail also but turned around sooner than you I guess.....lol. The Jak camp ground or site in Inuvik, where exactly is it? We stayed in the other one with the noisey teenagers all the time worrying about our bikes and equipment while we weren't there. The one you were told about seems much better....possibly far enough away from the trouble makers....? BUT, then again far enough away from the police station also.....
We also did the fancy MacKenzie resturant thing, feels very strange to go into such a nice place all filthy and dressed in motorcycle gear......but as you say, they treat you very well indeed!

Can't wait to get back.....tic tic......augh!


Please keep it coming.....
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Old 02-12-2014, 06:53 PM   #219
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Glad you're back!

Hey, good to hear that you're back online with your RR...really enjoying it...3 mates and I are doing the Dempster this summer so your written experiences are valuable intel...thanks!
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Old 02-13-2014, 12:25 PM   #220
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The Jak camp ground or site in Inuvik, where exactly is it?
If you are leaving town, it is on the right between the tail end of town, and the water dome road by the lake. You should see the sign and the tower in the picture. If you hit the airport, you've gone too far.

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Old 02-13-2014, 08:42 PM   #221
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Back at the Arctic Circle. Don't forget that there is a time zone change at the NWT/ Yukon border!

IMG_1713

IMG_1714

IMG_1719

I made Eagle Plains by about 6:30. The Gas attendant was on supper break, so I sat tight, fuel being more important than food! Just $1.68/L this time, and worth every nickel!

I went into the diner and had a burger, and an ice cold beer! Both were delicious! I ran into the same couple with the kid again. It turns out they acquired a dog in Inuvik! Naturally, it was a cream coloured husky with blue eyes! They got him for free from someone who breeds them for sledding. He was a few years old, and was the runt of the litter, so apparently no good on a dog team. Beautiful animal, albeit a bit shy..


Some local truckers. I say to the waitress what a beautiful spot it is, and she laughs, saying she can't wait to get back to her home in Dawson.

IMG_1724



The bar has an amazing view. There are nice big windows, and a set of binoculars to borrow. And I'm sure some of you will be happy to know that you can get off sales here.

IMG_1725

I felt a lot better after a good dinner, and headed out with a full load of fuel. I could go as far as I wanted tonight.

IMG_1733

It was noticeably smoky out.

IMG_1738


I rode until about 11:30. It was getting dim in the mountains, and the moose were out!

It's a bit hard to see, but she is nursing two calves in this shot.

IMG_1750


I Found a camping spot, had a small fire, and crashed out. Sleeping was a bit easier with the extra bit of darkness already gained from heading south.
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Old 02-18-2014, 10:16 PM   #222
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Day 11

I awoke in the morning to an unbearable stabbing pain in my head... again??....Why me? Why now? I spent the next few hours in my tent. I'm happy no one had to see me suffer, because this was a bad one...The sunlight hurts, and I suffer through making and eating breakfast with one eye open. When the pain started to subside, I packed up my things.

I went to pick up my headphones which had fallen on the ground. I picked up a bit of one, then another bit, and noticed they were nothing but bits.....What the bloody???? Did they get caught up in the wheel somehow? And then I saw my gloves, which also fell onto the ground...

IMG_0954

Well! I did hear some little vermin squeaking in the middle of the night...The little bastard cost me about $100 in gear like that!!! The poor guy must have been starving.. Lesson learned. ALL GEAR stays off the ground, unless it's rodent proof! Despite the rough start, I still had plenty of time to get back to Dawson. I finally left about 1:00.


Climbing into the Tombstone Mountains, I saw a side road, and checked it out. The road didn't go far, but cresting a blind hill, I spotted a shape in the distance. A lone Caribou, the first one I've seen! So where is the rest of the herd, I wonder? I spooked him a bit, but got a few photos anyway. I'm happy I finally got to see some wildlife on this trip!

IMG_1764

IMG_1758

IMG_1767

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Old 02-20-2014, 08:15 PM   #223
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The Tombstone Mountains were hard to leave behind, but I felt rushed with all the setbacks, and regret not having time to walk out into the scenery.... I wasn't sure if I'd ever be back here...

IMG_1772

But I tell you............I could spend a lot more time out here!

IMG_1770

I hope to be back some day...Next time, I'm going for a walk!!

IMG_1774

This was the first day I noticed any kind of sore muscles, but after almost four days and 1500kms of dirt, I was finally starting to feel a bit of burn. It's been a long, long haul, and I can thank the lucky stars for the amazing conditions that I had been given! I can imagine how punishing this road could be in bad weather, and I don't take it for granted one bit!!!

Forest fires seemed imminent. It was hot as hell, the smoke was getting thick, and my headache was starting to come back. I couldn't wait to get to Dawson to eat and re-hydrate. It was time to go sit in a bar!

IMG_1777
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Old 02-20-2014, 08:30 PM   #224
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Fantastic photos!...can't wait to see all this in person come June!
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Old 02-20-2014, 08:38 PM   #225
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Make sure to take more time than I did!
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