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Old 08-02-2013, 04:07 PM   #16
WallyWhirled
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Vibranators go on the handlebars?

All this time my girlfriend had it all wrong.
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Old 08-02-2013, 06:37 PM   #17
mountain eagle
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I'm partial to these insert type that go with the HDB guards. I don't like the idea of extra stuff protruding out of the ends of the bars. I have them on the 950 ( and had them on my 610) and found they helped a bunch.

http://www.highwaydirtbikes.com/HDB_...ref=av_inserts
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Old 08-03-2013, 06:53 AM   #18
Peanuts
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Just got back from a 140 mile ride with silicon sealer in the bars. All asphalt, cross country roads and about 12 miles of motorway at a constant 80 mph.

No numbness, no need to bash my hand onto my knee to wake it up.

Definately reccomend giving it a try. Costs next to nothing.
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Old 08-04-2013, 02:13 AM   #19
Ads OP
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Thanks to you all, the bar weights seem a good idea but I am not going to cut the end's of my bars off! I don't mind the one's that stick out pass the hand guards, but what ones and who off, as I don't want to order the wrong ones, at the moment I am thinking I shell try the silicon implant! but I really would appreciate if some could be more pacific to the bar weights I will need for my 2012 ADV with out chopping up my bike!

Thanks and cheers Adss.
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Old 08-04-2013, 06:44 AM   #20
Trail bandit
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ads View Post
Wow! what a response, all to much, I am going to sell the damn thing!
I went through the numb hands issue last year. First on an old Suzuki Bandit1200 then brought a Triumph Tiger 800 that was even worse

So, I know how frustrating it is to have numb hands and even numb up to mid forearm. Potential for long term damage as well.

However, I've currently got two 990's on the road and neither have more than the low frequency vibe you're going to get with most big twins. BMW or Ducati for instance. Rode both and not a lot different.

Could be the bike. Can't discount it but might be worth finding another to swap ride and compare notes.
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Old 08-04-2013, 07:42 AM   #21
Ads OP
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Yep. frustrating, but I do think it is down to the Akra remap which was done for the fuel can's, bit of a trade of as I have no more fuelling issues, any how I have just pumped a load of silicon in the bars, just waiting for the roads to dry up a little, I have my fingers crossed!.
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Old 08-04-2013, 09:25 AM   #22
Sevv
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The wife's current ride is a repurposed race bike SV650, so the vibes on it are pretty substantial to start with as pretty much anything extraneous has already been removed. Coupled with the fact she's using a set of woodcraft clip one with super light weight bars a quick test ride up the road was enough to cause complaints.

A quick run to the hunting store to ask about lead shot resulted in a big no deal. Either they didn't have it, or the old coot behind the counter wasn't willing to sell it to a teenage lookin mofo like me.

A quick wander through the fishing isle found me lead weight wire. About 1/8" thick lead wire 12' long coiled into a little tube. I cut three lengths for each handle and shoved them inside then capped with a little silicone to hold in place. It fits more securely than shot, cost about $6, and you don't have to worry about it working loose and dumping a fist full of low traction lead orbs on the road.

She's super happy with the result, so I am as well... Yay!
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Old 08-04-2013, 02:35 PM   #23
Balsta
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skydivegazoo View Post
...
1) Is the bike mechanically sound? Sorry, had to be asked.
2) Riding position. Are you putting too much weight on the bars or gripping too tightly? What angle are your wrists? Does changing riding position alleviate vibration problems? If so, try to figure out why.
3) Ride in a different gear. See what changes.
4) Bar position. Rotate the bars a few degrees either way and move them forward and back if you have adjustable mounts. Pay attention to how bar position affects riding position and wrist angle. Experiment. Note that if you move the mounts one way and then rotate the bars the other way, you can have the grips in the same position, but they will be at a slightly different angle (This is what worked for me in the end - it vibrates as much as ever, it just doesn't bother me any more. And it was free.). Try short risers. Better or worse?
5) Bar weights. Mostly they just change the resonant frequency of the bar system. It may be enough to help. Take the ones you have off. How's that? For the most part, even fancy bar weights are still just bar weights, the important thing is mass and distance from centre. The vibranator seems different, though. It looks like it would respond in a unique way. I'm intrigued.
6) Change the bars. Even an identical bend from a different manufacturer will transmit vibrations differently. The result would be similar to adding or removing bar weights. More better would be to change the bend. NOW we're talking. Liked the risers? Get a taller bend and throw them away. Found a bar position that you liked but it was weird for your wrists? Pick a bend to fix that. Sit on the bike and hold your hands out where you feel that bars should be. Look at all the angles.
AND
7) Avoid riding at same rpm for an extended period of time. It's a huge difference compared with ACTIVE AND FUN riding at different speeds and rpms. Your bike penalizes you with numb fingers when you ride it like an old tired automobile. The difference for myself is 20 minutes versus several hours until numb fingers.

By the way I also use 300 grams bar ends since long ago. Cant remember for sure if these were of any use.
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Old 08-05-2013, 12:51 PM   #24
Ads OP
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The Silicon has made a great improvement
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Old 08-05-2013, 03:30 PM   #25
Peanuts
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Originally Posted by Ads View Post
The Silicon has made a great improvement
suprising isn't it?
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Old 08-05-2013, 10:22 PM   #26
Bigem
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zander View Post
He also seems to be using foam grips.
13 days of Dakar each year for the last decade or so, he must have learnt something!!
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Old 07-17-2014, 07:16 PM   #27
Chuckracer
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Ordered my Vibranators Friday night, got confirmation and shipping info Monday Morning and the product today, Thursday. Can't beat that! So on with the show...

Here's what's in the package (uh...minus the Snap-On ruler. I own very few Snap-On tools and wanted to look cool)...








They're very nicely made...quality, for sure. It's one piece of machined steel. The web site (no instructions in the box) says to cut 20mm from the end of the bars and this part gives you back that length. This is the new end's of the bars - your grips go over them (in case that wasn't obvious)...



I was all set to cut, large tubing cutter in hand when I thought, "Hmmm...maybe 20mm wider bars would be cool...", and if I don't like it I can always cut them down later, or maybe just 10mm at a time. I can always thread deeper if necessary...so I didn't cut my bars.

I try a test fit and they wouldn't go in the bar all the way...something was stopping them. "What the hey", say's I, or words to that effect. I peer in the ends of the bars w/ my trusty mag-light and see little plastic caps. I'm thinking, "Uh oh. You don't suppose someone did the Silicone Seal treatment to the bars? Cause if they did, we're finished right here. And also, it ain't working." I stick it in again, cause I'm like that, and the Vibranator (we need a nickname here) pulls the cap out with it...Cool! Nothing in the bar that I can see, so I hit the other end of the bar with 110psi and fired that little bugger out of there like a shot! OK! Now we're rolling.




The tapping of the bar part is pretty easy. The only finicky part is making sure you're square at the start, but really, the other side went much faster and I'm a Pro now! (Send inquires to Chuckracer...). If you've never tapped anything, Google and YouTube will set you straight, and it's not difficult. It's actually kinda fun getting a feel for how the tool is cutting the aluminum, talking my time and pretending I could be a machinist.

Tap tap tap...


Nice...


Permatex Threadlocker 242 on the threads after clean up and in she goes...



Home...




The stock plastic handguards screw right into the ends of the Vibes, but you will need a much shorter bolt...this is the stock bolt threaded all the way in for reference...




...And that's it! Oh, you'll need to drill new holes for repositioning your handlebar pods if you do not cut your bars, as I did. Drill the holes, don't be a wanker and chop the pins off...that's hack. I'll ride the bike for a 100 miles or so tomorrow and this weekend and report back here with my impressions. I have circulation problems in my left hand mostly and the high frequency buzz is getting annoying. I can work around it and have for years, but why?
I have a good friend with serious Carpal Tunnel in both wrists and he says these things changed his riding future, and this is a man and rider I respect a great deal, so...there you are. And here we are. And off we go!

More later!
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Chuckracer screwed with this post 07-18-2014 at 05:35 AM
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Old 07-17-2014, 07:39 PM   #28
OrangeV
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ads View Post
Wow! what a response, all to much, I am going to sell the damn thing!
Please dont sell it, youre bike needs you, have some affection for it, its a KTM...
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Old 07-17-2014, 08:53 PM   #29
fast4d
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I just received and installed my vibranator on my ktm smt. no drilling required. just use the supplied longer bolts


I will ride tomorrow and hopefully they are worth the $70
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Old 07-18-2014, 04:33 PM   #30
fast4d
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they do absolutely nothing. I think they only work on high frequency vibes you get on inline fours. the low freq vibes from twins dont bother me nearly as much.

Mine are not like the ones pictured above. they screw onto longer bolts that fit through my hand guards.
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