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Old 08-12-2013, 03:10 PM   #31
Mondo-Hondo OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twisted-hog View Post
Going with a buddy that is flying over and going to buy a bike up here in Canada. We will trailer down to San Diego and ride to meet up with my wife and daughter who will fly down for a week with us in Cabo. Then we do it all back.

The biggest mods I will have to do is with my riding gear. My attire is basicly road based so I will have to upgrade every thing to keep safe for the off road portion. I don't have much experience off road so am expecting a get off sooner or later. I want to be protected so it's not a vacation killer, just something I can laugh about and say, holy shit did you see that
That sounds like an awesome trip. So you're like 3 days down to SD and 3 days back, so you have ~15 days? That's plenty of time to have some fun down there. As for gear, I've been wearing the icon Stryker Rig underneath a jersey for off-road stuff then throwing on a jacket over that for the street. Still need to figure out my pants situation :)

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Originally Posted by fleshpiston View Post
Pretty hard to see in the pic but I slid portions of bicycle inner tube over the connections and zip-tied the ends shut, so far it's proven waterproof.
I might give that a try. I have some heatshrink that's big enough but I'd like to retain trail-side access the the jumble.

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Originally Posted by CA Stu View Post
This seems like a mistake to me.

How did you anchor the front of the tank to the bike then?

If you are going to take your bike down to Baja, seems to me you wouldn't want a 50 pound gas tank bouncing around off road...bad things may happen.
It's attached the same way the stock tank is. The rubber pucks capture it side to side and up and down, and the plate at the back with two bolts and bushings keeps it from sliding off the pucks. It's got some float from the rubber mounting points but I think that's a good thing. It seems like a bad idea to me to have the primary mounts floating and the weaker points rigidly-mounted to a somewhat delicate and crucial component. I've read other posts of folks saying not to bother with the radiator attachment.
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Old 08-13-2013, 12:49 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mondo-Hondo View Post
It's attached the same way the stock tank is. The rubber pucks capture it side to side and up and down, and the plate at the back with two bolts and bushings keeps it from sliding off the pucks. It's got some float from the rubber mounting points but I think that's a good thing. It seems like a bad idea to me to have the primary mounts floating and the weaker points rigidly-mounted to a somewhat delicate and crucial component. I've read other posts of folks saying not to bother with the radiator attachment.
I think they are mistaken.
If you don't anchor the front of the tank you will end up with too much stress on the back two bolts and a decent crash can strip the holes out.
My bike on the right...


Also, the constant bouncing off-road may not be good for your frame.


It seems like the lower mounts also give a degree of radiator protection. I've not heard of any radiator failures caused by them, that's for certain. My bike sustained enough of a hit to bed the radiator fan housing, I think without the IMS tank there it would have been bent a lot more.

Try picking up the front of your tank without having the front mounts attached, see how far it can flex. What do you think a few thousand reps of that will do to the back of the tank, especially with 50+ pounds of fuel in there?

I reckon a solidly mounted tank beats a sloppy, bouncing one, but then again what do I know?
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Old 08-13-2013, 03:35 PM   #33
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on a similar note, KTM engineers put very similar mounts on the huge 640a tank, mighta been for a reason. also more than a few folks have made and installed front mounts on the big BRP acerbis tanks to cure some flex and vibe issues. i would use the additional mounts if i was you
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Old 08-13-2013, 06:14 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CA Stu View Post
I think they are mistaken.
If you don't anchor the front of the tank you will end up with too much stress on the back two bolts and a decent crash can strip the holes out.
I sort of agree with this. I'd say that there's very little stress on the rear bolts just from the bumps and jumps themselves. Even full, the tank hardly moves even over the rough stuff. The rubber pucks up front take almost all the load and the rear tab just keeps the tank from sliding off the pucks. I do agree, though, that in a crash, the flexible nature of the plastic could allow the tank to spread open enough to pop over the pucks and the tank could peel off backward. The solution there is either a cross brace between the bottom mounting points on the shrouds or mounting it to the non-critical coolant tank frame on the right side and making up some bars that attach to the radiator mounting points on the frame.

I'll try it and if it doesn't work out, well, the tank comes off and I'll fix it.

Quote:
Also, the constant bouncing off-road may not be good for your frame.
Yikes. Did that start as a crack or is that the result of a single impact? Did you weld it back up?

Quote:
Try picking up the front of your tank without having the front mounts attached, see how far it can flex. What do you think a few thousand reps of that will do to the back of the tank, especially with 50+ pounds of fuel in there?

I reckon a solidly mounted tank beats a sloppy, bouncing one, but then again what do I know?
I agree. Like I said, my tank doesn't really move while I'm riding. You have to push it onto the pucks with a bit of force...it's a tight fit. I can deflect the rubber by lifting the tank, sure, but there's no slop in the connection.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2 SPOT View Post
on a similar note, KTM engineers put very similar mounts on the huge 640a tank, mighta been for a reason. also more than a few folks have made and installed front mounts on the big BRP acerbis tanks to cure some flex and vibe issues. i would use the additional mounts if i was you
May or may not be applicable. I've never seen that particular tank mount up close. If the rest of the mounts are similar then it might, indeed, be a cautionary tale. I'm sure it's necessary in that application but without more information it's hard to say whether or not it applies here.
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Old 08-13-2013, 06:35 PM   #35
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i can see your point, as the "tanker brace" as it is known, and the 640a mounts dont touch the radiator and are not in any way connected to it, the mount run off the frame.

here is a link with a couple pics so you can see the difference and decide for yourself how you may want to go forward, i really do believe the tank needs some addtnal support up front though

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...t=tanker+brace
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Old 08-13-2013, 07:07 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2 SPOT View Post
i can see your point, as the "tanker brace" as it is known, and the 640a mounts dont touch the radiator and are not in any way connected to it, the mount run off the frame.

here is a link with a couple pics so you can see the difference and decide for yourself how you may want to go forward, i really do believe the tank needs some addtnal support up front though

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...t=tanker+brace
Thanks for the link. Those braces look good. I agree, some sort of bracing is ideal. It's still my opinion that no connection is better than bolting it to the radiator though. I'll probably end up fabbing something for the radiator side eventually.

I went out and looked at it some more and just realized that with the tank bag strapped on, the tank's not going anywhere. It's like a tank harness.
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Old 08-14-2013, 10:39 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mondo-Hondo View Post
Yikes. Did that start as a crack or is that the result of a single impact? Did you weld it back up?
I found it after my bike started handling funny after a good crash...
Here is the bottom of the front tube:



The only thing holding the bike together was the IMS tank and the skid plate.

Luckily my truck was close by, I took it home, bought a frame off eBay and swapped everything into the new frame.

I'm curious as to your reasoning for not mounting the IMS to the radiator as designed. Has their ever been an incident of a crash with an IMS breaking the radiator? Also, in a crash do you expect the lack of a couple of small screws to mitigate the transfer of force to the radiator?
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Old 08-14-2013, 09:36 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CA Stu View Post
I found it after my bike started handling funny after a good crash...
It's a wonder there was any "handling" to be had at all.

Quote:
I'm curious as to your reasoning for not mounting the IMS to the radiator as designed. Has their ever been an incident of a crash with an IMS breaking the radiator? Also, in a crash do you expect the lack of a couple of small screws to mitigate the transfer of force to the radiator?
Here's a quick breakdown of my reasoning:
  • I don't think they're necessary to keep the tank in place while riding...even off-road.
  • I'm lazy and like having fewer bolts to remove to get the tank off
  • I don't think the thin brackets add enough strength to keep the tank in place during a hard crash that wants to peel the tank up and back (like sliding on its side down a bumpy road.)
  • When I drop the bike on its side, I'd rather the whole tank shroud press in and load the entire length of the radiator, distributing the force. I'd wager it will do this anyway even with the bolts, but not before applying a momentary point load to the side of the radiator.

I think the best option is a frame-mounted loop that protects the radiator. If I had one of those, I'd mount the tank to that (and lament the abundance of bolts to remove.) But my hunch says that when relying on just the tank to protect the radiator, that keeping the two separate will offer more protection. The advantage, if any, is probably marginal at best. So I'm not saying I think it's dumb to attach the shrouds. Just that the thoughts listed above tip me toward not attaching them. If it turns out I am wrong, then I'll make a radiator guard and bolt the tank to that, then write up cautionary post about good ideas that weren't.
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Old 08-15-2013, 10:41 PM   #39
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I would anchor the tank in front also
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Old 08-17-2013, 09:57 AM   #40
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Laugh

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Originally Posted by Mondo-Hondo View Post

Still need to figure out my pants situation :)
I have the same problem, but I've finally decided to wear some.
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Old 08-17-2013, 10:53 AM   #41
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I have the same problem, but I've finally decided to wear some.
I'm leaning in that direction as well.
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Old 08-17-2013, 11:22 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mondo-Hondo View Post
It's a wonder there was any "handling" to be had at all.



Here's a quick breakdown of my reasoning:
  • I don't think they're necessary to keep the tank in place while riding...even off-road.
  • I'm lazy and like having fewer bolts to remove to get the tank off
  • I don't think the thin brackets add enough strength to keep the tank in place during a hard crash that wants to peel the tank up and back (like sliding on its side down a bumpy road.)
  • When I drop the bike on its side, I'd rather the whole tank shroud press in and load the entire length of the radiator, distributing the force. I'd wager it will do this anyway even with the bolts, but not before applying a momentary point load to the side of the radiator.

I think the best option is a frame-mounted loop that protects the radiator. If I had one of those, I'd mount the tank to that (and lament the abundance of bolts to remove.) But my hunch says that when relying on just the tank to protect the radiator, that keeping the two separate will offer more protection. The advantage, if any, is probably marginal at best. So I'm not saying I think it's dumb to attach the shrouds. Just that the thoughts listed above tip me toward not attaching them. If it turns out I am wrong, then I'll make a radiator guard and bolt the tank to that, then write up cautionary post about good ideas that weren't.
I'm on the side of not using those shitty little brackets on the IMS. I've dealt my fair share of abuse to the KLR and never installed them for the same reasons you describe.

I do feel that a more appropriate bracing system is warranted but I have never done it. Both my radiator and overflow frame are bent.
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Old 08-17-2013, 06:48 PM   #43
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+1 on Cogent Dynamics suspension upgrades for the KLR. I didn't use the website, called and talked about what I wanted with a real person... Got the 1" taller bike I wanted, with significantly better handling everywhere. Excellent service from start to finish.
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Old 08-20-2013, 05:49 AM   #44
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Suspension Adjustments and Rack Construction

Just a few updates. First, I ended up going with some Pro Taper ATV Hi bars. The extra height is nice. Could still use an inch or two more but I'll ride it for a while before deciding on bar risers. It really needs a taller seat too, so I'll probably address that all at once at some point in the future. Running out of time before the trip down south, though.

Spent a bit of time messing with the suspension. Rick at Cogent had sent me a new shim to add to the stack on the Cogent DDCs, so I pulled them out of the forks and added the shim. Adds some more damping. I also reduced the oil level to 170mm and cut down the preload spacers to get 2.5" of sag with me and half a tank of fuel. Much more compliant now.

Started making the rear rack last night. Wanted somehting just a bit longer and wider than the stock rack, and something that was easier to strap to and didn't flare out so I can move the Giant Loop bag fore and aft a little easier. Got the main tube bent and tacked onto the main bosses:





Still needs an X-brace in the middle and side braces, but it's coming along.
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Old 08-20-2013, 08:41 AM   #45
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looking good!

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