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Old 11-17-2013, 05:37 AM   #31
DirtyADV OP
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Originally Posted by Balsta View Post
...be careful with your pretty red painted nails which gets ugly from screwing...on your bike...

That is what happens when not wrenching for a while so they have time to grow and ending up with claws longer then the girls at the party so they gave me some paint also when preparing themself.

Since the 990R has cables going up both side of the steering stem and guide and the Scotts triple clamp did not have mounts for the guide a piece of metal was made and clamped in place by the steering lock, lock still works even if is a little lower down:



The other guide needed a very fine shave on one spot to clear the steering lock when mounted on the scotts triple:



Had a few more photos that my phone refuse to upload to the photostream and the sync cable is broken, only good for charging but a new cable is ordered.

/Johan
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Old 11-17-2013, 06:12 AM   #32
DELTATANGO
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So you bought a new motorcycle.

And you're taking the old beat up shit off of your old motorcycle and are putting it on your new motorcycle. And you're making a motard out of your old mc.

Don't you still need a 990 motor for it?
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Old 11-17-2013, 06:26 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by DELTATANGO View Post
So you bought a new motorcycle.

And you're taking the old beat up shit off of your old motorcycle and are putting it on your new motorcycle. And you're making a motard out of your old mc.

Don't you still need a 990 motor for it?


I see it a redusing risk of theft by making the new bike look old =)


I did fix the Pyndon Syndrome on the 950 so the plan is to just keep beating it, if it starts leaking again, just fill oil and keep running until it gives up.


/Johan
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Old 11-17-2013, 06:33 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtyADV View Post
I see it a redusing risk of theft by making the new bike look old =)


I did fix the Pyndon Syndrome on the 950 so the plan is to just keep beating it, if it starts leaking again, just fill oil and keep running until it gives up.


/Johan
Oh. Ok. What will you do for body panels/tanks on your old bike?
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Old 11-17-2013, 07:20 AM   #35
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Oh. Ok. What will you do for body panels/tanks on your old bike?
The blue panels and tanks I bought second hand so still have all the orange plastic (was orange to begin with).



But it might end up black, have a guy wanting to swap his black plastic to make his orange.

And as long as its in similar condition I dont really care what color the bike is.

But have been tempted to get something custom done for the new bike, either paint but that is so much work or maybe some vinyl, not sure if Crispy does custom stuff and how much it would cost.

Have to hold back expences a little since the new bike set me back quite a bit and it was not fully planned, but since the 990 is going out of production I felt it was the time to get one now.

/Johan
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Old 11-17-2013, 08:14 AM   #36
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Originally Posted by DirtyADV View Post
The blue panels and tanks I bought second hand so still have all the orange plastic (was orange to begin with).



But it might end up black, have a guy wanting to swap his black plastic to make his orange.

And as long as its in similar condition I dont really care what color the bike is.

But have been tempted to get something custom done for the new bike, either paint but that is so much work or maybe some vinyl, not sure if Crispy does custom stuff and how much it would cost.

Have to hold back expences a little since the new bike set me back quite a bit and it was not fully planned, but since the 990 is going out of production I felt it was the time to get one now.

/Johan
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Old 11-18-2013, 10:08 AM   #37
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A few new parts for the bike:



Now I just need a TuneECU for dummies to get that going.

/Johan
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Old 11-18-2013, 10:15 AM   #38
bikyto
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Sweet new parts.

If I may, be careful while using using the stock screws that will hold the exhaust shield. I have it as well, I lost all of them and barely saved the shield no matter what thread locker I used (which doesn't work on a header that is so hot anyway).

The side stand relocator is the best on the market IMO.

TuneEcu is a blast and if you have any questions, let me know. I've done quite a bit of work with it.
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Old 11-18-2013, 11:23 AM   #39
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Originally Posted by bikyto View Post
Sweet new parts.

If I may, be careful while using using the stock screws that will hold the exhaust shield. I have it as well, I lost all of them and barely saved the shield no matter what thread locker I used (which doesn't work on a header that is so hot anyway)...

Those heat shields ship with a 3-pack of special screws that have high temp thread locker already applied. It's good to 2250F...



.
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Old 11-18-2013, 11:31 AM   #40
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Originally Posted by PowerCell View Post
Those heat shields ship with a 3-pack of special screws that have high temp thread locker already applied. It's good to 2250F...



.
Thanks Ken. I got two sets of these screws from Craig. They all fell off. I don't know why, neither did he. So I used alternative screws that have held for thousands of miles. I was just sharing an experience.
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Old 11-18-2013, 12:16 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bikyto View Post
Sweet new parts.

If I may, be careful while using using the stock screws that will hold the exhaust shield. I have it as well, I lost all of them and barely saved the shield no matter what thread locker I used (which doesn't work on a header that is so hot anyway).

The side stand relocator is the best on the market IMO.

TuneEcu is a blast and if you have any questions, let me know. I've done quite a bit of work with it.
With the 320mm suspension the strudiest sidestand relocator is needed step on the peg to get up on the bike =)

Should I loose this heat shield I will probably cut the stock and weld it in place.

Will for sure write here (maybe PM you) should I have trouble with TuneECU, now that I have the cable I will do a little read up and give it a try first.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PowerCell View Post
Those heat shields ship with a 3-pack of special screws that have high temp thread locker already applied. It's good to 2250F...
.
Will use the supplied screws.

Quite annoyed when the other day wanted to get the front header off to be able to drain coolant and had to take the shield off to get header out.

Tempted to cut this beauty of carbon fiber down to size so header can come out without removing it.

Not all things are better on a newer bike, cant see how much better this lager heat shield on the newer bikes are compared to the solution on the 950?

/Johan
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DirtyADV screwed with this post 11-18-2013 at 12:35 PM
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Old 11-18-2013, 01:45 PM   #42
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My stock 950 heat shield has to come off to get that pipe out and its still a wrestling match…

Dave
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Old 11-18-2013, 01:57 PM   #43
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My stock 950 heat shield has to come off to get that pipe out and its still a wrestling match…

Dave
Do you have the kind that only has 2 bolts?



Picture from back when chasing an oil leak.

That heat shield have not been removed from the header since new and header has been off the bike several times.

/Johan
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Old 11-23-2013, 03:25 PM   #44
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Have now moved the clutch and basket, since the rekluse is easiest to handle with the bike on its side to not have balls all over the place both were laid down:



Had forgotten that the rekluse had a steel plate at the bottom, had ordered an extra outer friction disc and will try to skip the extra thin one and see how that works but a normal friction disc should be possible to use since the bottom steel plate compared to the normal clutch.

Have some minor wear on the CJ beefier clutch basket:



But when looking at how worn the tabs on the friction discs are I might have to give the old bike some love in the form of a set of new friction discs:



/Johan
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Old 11-24-2013, 12:54 PM   #45
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So looked a little more at the dog house and the clamps holding it in place are annoying to work with.

Had some nylon plastic laying around, so made a try making a snap out dog house:



And it lifts right out:



Will see if it holds up!

/Johan
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