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Old 12-15-2013, 03:40 PM   #61
DirtyADV OP
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Have the high fender conversion for the old 950 done by now at least:




Q-tip to get clutch jet out:



Moved the drilled out 1mm big clutch jet over to the new bike, sure it can be a bit hard to find neutral but with the rekluse there is not that much need:



Also removed the tab covering the plug for the clutch oil jet so it can be opened without removing clutch slave and case guard:



/Johan
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Old 12-20-2013, 12:56 PM   #62
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So was chasing the strange sound:



So started the bike a few times and seems to be less sound so hopefully its just some wearing in of the used steel plates in the clutch mating with the new friction disc.

But while doing so I have managed to get the connector for the computer down on the exhaust ...ARRRGH:





Luckily it was mostly the cap that melted and the wires seems to have survived.

Also have a question if there was any chain guide that was bolt on? From the super enduro?

With the 320 suspension the chain need to be quite loose to not over tighten during the stroke.

/Johan
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Old 12-20-2013, 02:43 PM   #63
bikyto
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtyADV View Post
Also have a question if there was any chain guide that was bolt on? From the super enduro?

With the 320 suspension the chain need to be quite loose to not over tighten during the stroke.

/Johan
The SE chain guide isn't a bolt on option
I've tried.

Anyone else?
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Old 12-22-2013, 03:10 AM   #64
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Originally Posted by bikyto View Post
The SE chain guide isn't a bolt on option
I've tried.

Anyone else?
Thanks, no point in going for that then.

Tried searching but seems welding something on is needed, so next winter then if I have any trouble this summer.

And WHO designed the new heat shield for the exhaust????

What an annoying thing, you need to unbolt to get front header off, you need to squeeze it in place while trying to get the header back in place????

Had the header in place already and the heat shield is just impossible to get in place.

Had bought that fancy carbon heat shield but tried with stock also.

SO I CUT IT!!



Without support the rear piece would touch the header:



So cut some more away:



Yes I used a breathing mask, had glasses also during the actual cutting.
And since selfies seems to be so important these days, here you go:




Cheers!

/Johan
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Old 12-24-2013, 03:59 PM   #65
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Wont go crazy with lights, just keeping stock and adding 2 small LED light:




For now =)

Have some stuff on order before I can start working on the wiring.

/Johan
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Old 01-06-2014, 01:02 PM   #66
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Voltmeter in place:



Insulated handle bar with shrink tubing:



Squeezed some switches in to control heated grips and the extra LED lights:





Only pink spray can in the garage, hair spray, the best for removing and installing grips:



What the front looks like without headlight after all the extra wiring is in place:



Will have to look into the brake lines and maybe redo some of them but its getting close to ready =)

/Johan
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Old 01-07-2014, 06:47 AM   #67
kamanya
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It sounds as if it squeaks every second rev. So either is comes from the crank case; I am guessing that your crank case breather is the source of the squeak? Or one of the exhausts. Somewhere there may be a leak.
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Old 01-07-2014, 09:09 AM   #68
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It sounds as if it squeaks every second rev. So either is comes from the crank case; I am guessing that your crank case breather is the source of the squeak? Or one of the exhausts. Somewhere there may be a leak.
Thanks you very much, but why would it go away?

Have installed the CPR filter and just skipped the last elbow to get the breather to actually go into the intake.

Exhaust leak might be a possibility also since the front header had to come off to swap the clutch.

And thought I was done with the electrical stuff but have added an air horn to the list now, should be possible to squeeze something in front of the air filter within the frame ...or would that muffle it to much?


Cheers!

/Johan
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Old 01-13-2014, 12:01 PM   #69
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i dont understand why you would take a new bike and put old shit on it? if someones gonna steal your bike they are not gonna care if the swingarms scratched. instead of taking a new bike apart and making it look like crap why dont you update the old bike with new parts seeing as how your spending the same money and the new bike has better parts than your old ride.
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Old 01-13-2014, 03:18 PM   #70
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i dont understand why you would take a new bike and put old shit on it? if someones gonna steal your bike they are not gonna care if the swingarms scratched. instead of taking a new bike apart and making it look like crap why dont you update the old bike with new parts seeing as how your spending the same money and the new bike has better parts than your old ride.
Theft is not the primary reason for moving used items onto the new bike.

Had extra parts I have accumulated over the years as spares so rather use old parts since I plan to use the bike and it will probably get more scratched up in the near future.

Prefer to put the brand new parts aside as spares untill needed and have the option to sell them, individual items will require close to OEM price for me to part with but as a bundle there is haggeling room.

But Im probably limited to Sweden (Europe maybe) to sell anything not room enough for shipping and competing with US prices.





And a real question also, what is the thread dimension on the oil pressure switch?

And what pressure does the light go off? And is it a closing or opening switch.

Tempted to look into adding a mechanical gauge and rather look at getting it to fit at the oil pressure switch compared to start drilling open the cam chain tensioner plug.

/Johan
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Old 01-16-2014, 05:10 AM   #71
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Would buying the adaptor for checking the oil pressure be a good option?

Seems to be with a banjo fitting so a brake hose might be the way to transfer the pressure up to a gauge on the dash?



Maybe connect it to the rear cylinder to be a bit more protected?

Class 1 seems to have some nice backlit gauges but have not found a source to buy them? And 2.5" might be a bit to big?

/Johan
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Old 01-19-2014, 09:40 PM   #72
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Seems possible to squeeze in an air horn beside the headlight, and this is the longer of the 2 that came in the kit that has a far richer throatier sound then the short horn:



/Johan
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Old 01-28-2014, 02:38 PM   #73
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Was able to squeeze in both the horns from the kit:



For more pictures visit: http://www.dirtyadv.com/ktm-990r-adv...-installation/

/Johan
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Old 02-03-2014, 01:03 PM   #74
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Waiting for the oil pressure gauge, just secured some cables for the alarm hanging around.

Also tried the trick with removing the rubber cap on the bottom of the fork leg with compressed air.

And a ball needle for a hand pump for trail use so one of those will be in the tool kit for now on.



/Johan
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Old 02-07-2014, 05:28 PM   #75
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Have recieved the oil pressure gauge now, have to look at some way to mount it, seen the front fairings but would prefer to have it above the stock instrument cluster so something special might be needed:



Have also purchased the adaptor to mount at one of the cam chain tensioners, also have one that might make it possible to mount by the stock dummy light sensor but that is a tighter fit so will probably go for the rear cylinder cam chain tensioner plug:



/Johan
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