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Old 08-11-2013, 05:54 PM   #16
dwj - Donnie OP
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Originally Posted by grant22 View Post
Thanks to you all!

I just ordered the Motion Pro Fork Cap Wrench Tool.
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Old 08-11-2013, 11:18 PM   #17
mousitsas
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A few people pm-ed to ask me what is the 'easy' method I use, here is goes:

1) Loosen the top triple tree bolts, keep the bottom tree bolts tight
2) Turn (unscrew) the preload bolts on the top, when all preload is removed give it a bit more and the top caps will loosen. When they loosen stop turning them.
3) Loosen bottom tree bolts and remove forks
4) keep forks vertical, hold stationary the top caps and the fork boots and unscrew the top fork legs from the caps.
5) pull top fork legs all the way down
6) reverse forks and empty oil in a container. Measure exactly how much oil comes out from each leg. You have to assume here that last person who screwed with your forks put the correct amount of oil.
7) keep forks upside down to drain as much oil as possible
8) Get a small funnel, small enough for its pointy end to get between the fork spring and the fork leg and fill with same quantity of new oil. I use a big plastic syringe and a funnel on top of it.
9) pull up the upper fork leg and screw it back to the top cap, again without turning the cap, just the leg.
10) Replace forks, tighten bottom tree bolts, then fork caps then top triple bolts.
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Old 08-12-2013, 12:48 AM   #18
Peanuts
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I would never use the preload adjuster to undo fork caps. If you dont have the 4 pin tool, use an adjustable 2 pin tool designed for angle grinders, very cheap to buy.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Silverline...item2a14a6112d




I must admit I do the tip out the oil and measure method for quick changes on non leaking forks.

I thought about taking out the base valve and pumping empty, then refil through the bleed screw hole. I will give it a try this Winter.
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Old 08-12-2013, 02:18 AM   #19
mousitsas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peanuts View Post
I would never use the preload adjuster to undo fork caps. If you dont have the 4 pin tool, use an adjustable 2 pin tool designed for angle grinders, very cheap to buy.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Silverline...item2a14a6112d




I must admit I do the tip out the oil and measure method for quick changes on non leaking forks.

I thought about taking out the base valve and pumping empty, then refil through the bleed screw hole. I will give it a try this Winter.
Thanks for the tips Peanuts.
The fork cap on my forks was not tight at all, maybe that was just my bike.
If it is as easy to remove the base valve, then it would be dream come true. I will check it out on an old pair of WP 43mm forks I have lying around.
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Old 08-12-2013, 05:12 AM   #20
dwj - Donnie OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mousitsas View Post
A few people pm-ed to ask me what is the 'easy' method I use, here is goes:

1) Loosen the top triple tree bolts, keep the bottom tree bolts tight
2) Turn (unscrew) the preload bolts on the top, when all preload is removed give it a bit more and the top caps will loosen. When they loosen stop turning them.
3) Loosen bottom tree bolts and remove forks
4) keep forks vertical, hold stationary the top caps and the fork boots and unscrew the top fork legs from the caps.
5) pull top fork legs all the way down
6) reverse forks and empty oil in a container. Measure exactly how much oil comes out from each leg. You have to assume here that last person who screwed with your forks put the correct amount of oil.
7) keep forks upside down to drain as much oil as possible
8) Get a small funnel, small enough for its pointy end to get between the fork spring and the fork leg and fill with same quantity of new oil. I use a big plastic syringe and a funnel on top of it.
9) pull up the upper fork leg and screw it back to the top cap, again without turning the cap, just the leg.
10) Replace forks, tighten bottom tree bolts, then fork caps then top triple bolts.
Thanks! I think this will work for me!
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Old 08-12-2013, 11:29 AM   #21
Peanuts
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Originally Posted by mousitsas View Post
Thanks for the tips Peanuts.
The fork cap on my forks was not tight at all, maybe that was just my bike.
If it is as easy to remove the base valve, then it would be dream come true. I will check it out on an old pair of WP 43mm forks I have lying around.
So long as there is weight on the forks to stop the cartridge spinning, it will come out easy. If it seems to be just spinning, use a ratchet strap from handlebars to wheel to compress the fork a bit more.

BUT bleed the fork via the screw in the top cap before you take the base valve out otherwise it will be under pressure!

Just do one side at a time.
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Old 08-12-2013, 02:40 PM   #22
dwj - Donnie OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwj - Donnie View Post
Thanks to you all!

I just ordered the Motion Pro Fork Cap Wrench Tool.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Peanuts View Post
So long as there is weight on the forks to stop the cartridge spinning, it will come out easy. If it seems to be just spinning, use a ratchet strap from handlebars to wheel to compress the fork a bit more.

BUT bleed the fork via the screw in the top cap before you take the base valve out otherwise it will be under pressure!

Just do one side at a time.

Thanks!
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