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Old 08-19-2013, 02:05 PM   #16
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Joined: May 2008
Location: Washington, DC
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great report so far
ADV'ing from America's fine Crapital...
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Old 08-19-2013, 05:28 PM   #17
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Location: Antigua , Guatemala
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Enjoying your report !!

Peccato che non sapevo prima del tuo viaggio, io vivo in Guatemala e mi avrebbe fatto piacere conoscerti .
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Old 08-19-2013, 05:38 PM   #18
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Location: Miami/Managua
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glad you were not hurt worse. lesson learned? the right gear for the job is worth the price.

great report!
'08 DR650
'07 DL1000
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Old 08-19-2013, 07:18 PM   #19
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Great report! Let's see some more.
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Old 08-19-2013, 07:40 PM   #20
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Love the report. You're a bad-ass! Wreck bike, get stitches.
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Old 08-21-2013, 01:19 PM   #21
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Location: Modena-Italy
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Sunday may 26

The bus to Tikali picks up at 6 am: I wake up early and at 5,15 am I'm ready to the stop. At 6,10 nothing, but I can see some veichle going. After 30 minutes I understand: Guatemala's time is one hour behind Mexico's time. I set the clock of my cellular phone. At 6.00 am the bus arrive: there are 5 tourists.
Before 7 am we reach Tikali

at the entry I buy a map with the monuments

then I chase the main path and walk... I limp towards the Main Square: is something impressive, I'm alone and I enjoy it a lot

distances between monuments, in Tikali are long, but if you have a hole in a knee they can look very very long
Around 9.30 am I rest for a while: the steps are breezy. I sleep for one hour and half. Now, wlaking, I feel the knee's better

In Angor Wat (Cambodia) the jungle wraps up the monuments: here the jungle covers the monuments and sometime they suddendly appear to you

After a rest to drink, I see the signal to the Temple IV: I've seen a lot and for this you've got to climb a very long staircase. Ok, doesn't matter. More or less there are 200 steps. but once at the top I remain open-mouthed. In the middle of the jungle 2 tips of the temples appear to you: amazing

at 2,00 pm I comeback to El Ramate and at 4 pm painkiller and antibiotic and sleep.

At 7 pm I wake up and walk to the lake and I can see something that remind to me the Italy in the 60's: woman are laundering while children are playng and men washing cars

Monday may 27

It takes one hour to prepare the bike, but the knee is going better

I look back at my itinerary: I don't have any informations about ferry service between Belize and Honduras: every day, once a week ? Overland is too long and so I have decided to skip this country and drive to Honduras.

First I've got to go to SAT to get documents for the bike. At the San Benito's office isn't possible: an employee suggest to me to go to the SAT office in San Flores, because it is bigger.

Even here no way to get the documents. Ok I've got to try to explain my situation at the border. Today is a day to use to "familiarize" again with the bike. Is a perfect day: rain and wind. This is a 2 hours stop somewhere in Guatemala

The ground cloth I bought last year in Vietnam is very helpful even if the Kawasaki 650 is bigger than the Yamaha 200 cc Serow

Around evening I stop somewhere near the border, more or less 19 miles (30 km): hotel Escorpion was waiting for me. Just half hour to have a showewrand hang out the clothes and I go out to find something to eat. In a little shop I find canned food: ok in the room I've got water and bread.
Inthe room ther's the television and watching channells availables ther's one that broadcast the Italian Cup Final, between Roma and lazio . Both team are of the city of Rome and ther's a fierce rivalry.
I'm not a soccer fan: I've played for 30 years to american football. But here, outside my country is nice to can watch this match and the broadcasters are fantastic

vince la Lazio: i commentatori sud americani sono uno spasso. Si entusiasmano e riescono a entusiasmare anche con un tiro fuori di 5 metri

Tuesday, May 28

The immigration is very very fast, but at the custom. Luckily, the employee, after have seen the picture of the crossing border mexico-Guatemala, understands and write(for free9 a kind o transit permission, so no problem with the Hoduras custom.

At the Hoduras side, I chabìnge $ with Lempiras. At every border you can find this people (is a regular job) that change money

In San Pedro Sula I've bought the chain spray: yes the most dangerous city in the world. Looks quiet, but 719.447 citiziens and 1.143 homicides...

Inthe afternoon I reach the Yojoa Lake and I eat a fish in a restaurant lakefront: they let you to choose the fish and then they cook it

In the late afternoon I arrive at tegucigalpa, the Honduras capital and I stop to a police station along the city bypass to ask the direction to Nicaragua border, the city of Danli.
The cops are amazing kind and sheperd me up to the right exit

From now I stop to be smart and the mule inside me let me became very stubborn. Is 8 pm and I see a motel. Is an hour motel: 30 $ for 3 hours and 60$ for the night. I continue to drive and a taxi driver tells that ther's a motel near the bus station: should be cheaper. No: 80$. I come back to the first hotel. I don't have enough lempiras. I've got the 100 4 bill, but they don't have the change. Can I use my credit card ? No. Ok I take the bike and drive looking for an ATM. In a bih shopping center I'm able to get the money. The bike is near a McDonald: is good because it starts to rain a lot. Ok once a time in a vacation you can eat in a fast food. I eat and look at my maps. Around 10 pmk it stops to rain Now I've got just to detour on the bypass. After 20 minutes I became a little bit nervous and again the rain, but slowly. I decide to get out the bypass, but when I see a man on a motorbike with his girlfriend I stop. I ask to him if he can bring me to a cheap motel. The first is 20 $, no. Finally he brings me to the Salomè Motel: 8 $ for the room, 2 $ for the parking and 2$ for him= 12$

Good night

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Old 08-21-2013, 01:26 PM   #22
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Thumb Thanks for sharing

I remember you from your Vietnam RR
Glad to see you back and keep the RR coming.
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Old 08-21-2013, 04:55 PM   #23
Joined: Jun 2009
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Honduras, Nicaragua, Belize Safety

Hello, very nice report, thanks for the posts.

I was also looking to make a similar travel, but I will start in Bogota where I live and go up to Playa del Carmen and then back again to Colombia.

How is the safety in Central America? here we heard a lot of things about the Maras and gangs like that, did you have any problems or heard about any safety hazards that we need to be concerned about?

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Old 08-21-2013, 05:06 PM   #24
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Location: July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
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Great ride report! I hope you are healing up well from the accident. I like your style!


ADV RR Finding Freedom...World Wide Ride

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Old 08-21-2013, 05:41 PM   #25
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Very nice! Looks like a really fun time. Looking forward to the rest.
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Old 08-22-2013, 12:59 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by nvt View Post
Hello, very nice report, thanks for the posts. I was also looking to make a similar travel, but I will start in Bogota where I live and go up to Playa del Carmen and then back again to Colombia. How is the safety in Central America? here we heard a lot of things about the Maras and gangs like that, did you have any problems or heard about any safety hazards that we need to be concerned about? Regards
If you read the begin of my report, you can understand the situation in this countries. What you can think if you see a man with body armor, cartridge belt and double-barreled shotgun and this man is the security guard, but for a bakery or a drugstore ? Not a bank. Check points are everywhere, as police or military. Crime rate is very high and Maras (or pandillas) penetrate in many levels of this countries.

So ? In this countries there are yet millions of people that aren't gang members: plumbers , housewifes, children ecc...

I've followed this simple rules

Always travel with daylight (sometimes I haven't done )
Sleep in little cities instead in big (sometimes I haven't done )
Listen to suggestions of local people about safety ( I always have done )

Remember that bad people, normally, work in the night. So in the morning thay must sleep, wake up in the afternoon, plane the jobs and with the dark they go outside for "businness"
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Old 08-22-2013, 06:45 AM   #27
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The early bird might get the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese.
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Old 08-24-2013, 01:15 PM   #28
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Wednesday May 29

The hotel Salomè isn't so close to the bypass, but finally, with the help of a taxi driver I find the direction of Danlì

my reception

green big spaces...police military and security everywhere

ok this is a picture just to joke for Italians. I try to explain. Terrone is italian slang word that in the 60's was used to indicate Italian south people that are relocating in the north, to find a better job. Most of the time the term was used in an insulting way, as nigger for afro american people or guinea for italian people that migrated to USA. Now is different and even south Italians joke with this word

at noon I'm at the border of Las Manos: the Nicaragua's burocracy is a nightmare, even the disinfestation of the bike: it probably would have been better if they had disinfected my clothes

this is an italian girl that works in an ONLUS

I enter in Nicaragua with the sun

my first Nicaragua cloud burst. For bikers Nicaragua is a very well organized country: his bus stops are built perfectly to repair motorbike and biker. Two hours under the bus stop, but I've got time to make friends with moms and children . Especially children are very curiouses about my map.

I hope this video could give to you an idea about how strong is the rain in this period of the year

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Old 08-24-2013, 02:53 PM   #29
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For the night, I stop in San Isidro at the pension Viajero..San Isidro, one of that amazing, wonderful, very normal little place, in the middle of nowhere

a little restaurant: tomorrow in Nicaragua is the national Mom Celebration

Thursday, May 30

I'm lucky, the city alarm clock works perfectly: at 5.00 am a pick up with speaklouder begins to play songs for the mom celebration. There are more or less 125 miles(200 km) to the border with Costa Rica, maybe will be possible reach Liberia.

the Lion Club

Granada is very very busy, but is the main starting point to visit the Big Lake of Nicaragua

Costa Rica border is worth then Nicaragua Border. Immigration and custom are a little bit far. You also need a lot of fotocopy: ther's an office, but always with truck driver line. You must also subscribe a temporary policy, in a third office !!. After one hour and half, I'm ready for the last step: documents for the bike. A young employee tell to me I can't go with my bike in Costa Rica: tragedy...why ? All my documents are ok, but in the purchase agreement ther's lacking of notary signature. To entry in Costa Rica every veichle bought in other countries, must be endorsed by notary or lawyer. Mine has'nt..obvious is a gold brick. I try to persuade him sayng (true) that in Mexico is enough the signature of a third person, and this is what ther's on my purchase agreement..I did it. No I can't travel in Costa Rica with the bike. I ask to can speak with the office manager. When he finally comes at the help desk listen to me and after a minute looks at the employee in the way" Always the same old story", then tells to me to go across the street where I'll find an office that looks as a church: ther's a lawyer that can regulate my documents

In case this is the office

In 5 minutes the lawyer makes a fotocopy of my purchase agreement and then certify it

after 3 hours I'm in Costa Rica and I reach Liberia where I get a room in the Liberia Hotel: this will be the best accomodation of my vacation: 12 $ ( 9€)

thers's the free wifi and I try to connect with my pc: Ubuntu works well.

Friday May 31

Today breakfast in the hotel: 3$

I've got in mind to travel in Costa Rica till to Atlantic Ocean to the Tortuguero National Park

It isn't possible to reach overland the park: last part of the travel must be made by boat and sleep in the park could be little expensive. This two truck drivers suggest to me to travel till Guapiles , leave there the bike, and then use bus and boat to reach the park: is possible arrive early in the morning and then come back at the end of the day: sounds good.

Guys of university : canvassers

This is a storical picture: I've reached the top as motorbike driver

After I've taken the picture I start again. I push the start button: nothing, just the sound of the silence. Ohh, for sure I'm not in the neutral. I push the pedal cluch: now I can move the bike, for sure I'm in neutral. Ok go...nothing. For five minute it's normal: i grumble: Stupid guy...why with the bike...what happenend...what I can do?
Finally i ask to a girl in a house if I can leave my bike in the garden: the city is 4 miles far.

I keep with me the little back pack with all documents and money and the pc: perfect if some criminal find me will be a bingo: a tourist, old, alone,lime and with money: I feel as a wounded gazelle that must cross near a bunch of lions.
After a mile I find another home with 2 men. I ask If they can bring me to the mechanic. They want to try to help me conneccting the battery of my bike to the battery of their car. I come back to get the bike. When I arrive at the second home it appears too much difficult connect the 2 batteries. One of them brings me in the city, where a taxi driver with a pick up comes and for 11$ bring me and the bike to the mechanic

At first, even the mechanic is a little bit confused, because, as we noticed before, the bactery looks good: horn and lights are working. I'm speaking with another client when suddendly I heard the "VROOOM" of my Kawasaky !!!!
I look at the mechanic: is he a wizard ?

No, the kawasaki 650 has the neutral between every gear and not only (as my Suzuki DR 350) between first and second gear. I was in the neutral between third and fourth gear. He clean the filter: very dirty.

After this stop will be impossible reach a place near the Tortuguero Park, ok I try to go to Guapiles.

Along the road I had a stop to this caddle market

Costa Rica or Texas ?

the signal roads for Guapiles aren't very clear

the trucks drivers told me to pay attention to the fog on the road for Guapiles in the mountains, but, you know ? I was born and I live in the Padana Valley, country of Modena, a land with one of the worst weather in the world. Hot summer with a lot of umidity, cold winter and fall with a lot of rain and fog.

After a crossing place situation goes better

I arrive in Guapiles: no tourist agency. I take a room in the Wilson Hotel. It has taken a while...not a lot of people, but in the first room fan was ko, in the second was'nt possible to look the room, the third wasn't possible to open. The fourth was the right one

A girl that works at the Wilson explain that is alittle bit difficult to reach El Tortuguero from here. I've got to take the first bus tomorrow morning at 5.00 am, hope to can get the connection with another bus at 6,30 am in another city (not guarantee) and then
reach the boarding point. I look at my map and decide to drive to Puerto Limon, so for sure I'll can see the ocean and then look for the Park.
Guapiles looks a peaceful place, but everybody in Liberia told me to be very careful: even the owner of the Wilson says the same. So i walked outside to eat, but near the hotel

prayisn't a bad idea

this is very unusual: this womens are playng bingo inside this shop of white goods

I finisch wy walk watching this future soccer champions

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Old 08-24-2013, 04:33 PM   #30
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That's a great ride.
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Recife, Brasil
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