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Old 08-22-2013, 08:29 AM   #16
Inane Cathode OP
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I don't see any on completed listings, don't know what i'm doing wrong but with the yam number or just '75 dt400 coil' no pulser coils come up. Tried the cross reference, nothin.
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Old 08-22-2013, 09:31 AM   #17
stainlesscycle
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try this search

(dt250,dt400,it400,mx400,dt360) (stator,igntion,pulser) -cover

you could add yz400 in there, but it ends up with some yz400f/yz426f junk.. and you're gonna hafta weed out 78/79 stuff - you could put

(dt250,dt400,it400,mx400) (stator,igntion,pulser) (1974,1975,1976,1977) -cover

but that eliminates the ones without the year in the title...

you can save the search for daily searching/notifications. i bet a stator pops up in the next week or so..
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Old 08-22-2013, 10:08 AM   #18
Inane Cathode OP
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What's the feasibility/reliability of swapping out the stator with one from a 77-78? Would i have to change the rotor and the CDI at the same time? Looks like theres tons of 77 and later stators and pickup coils.
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Old 08-22-2013, 10:27 AM   #19
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first i would see if you can find the testing spec for the 77/78 pulser (or even newer..) - if it's the same range, just swap the stators out (or just the pulser). if it's way different range, you may need to swap cdi out - not a bad thing, i don't trust any pre-1977 cdi/ignition anyways... you may need to change flywheels if you change the whole stator out. i dunno if the i.d. of the flywheel changed, i have to swap flywheels on my ignition swaps - the early mx external flywheels were small i.d.. the taper on the crank is probably the same. the yz's had several tapers, to the best of my knowledge, the mx and dt only had small (175 and down)and big bore (250 and up) tapers....

if it was mine i'd slowly swap the entire ignition out to the newest (and most available) ignition i could find. the yamaha trail bikes from the late 70's were produced in huge numbers (especially 77/78/79) so there's a ton of them/cheap parts out there.

yamaha really started making reliable ignitions in the late 70's. they don't seem to fail often... the 73-75 ignition systems had a ton of problems.


i bought a couple of random stators cheap that i thought would work - the ones that don't fit, i just re-ebay... i just check to find which ones there's lots of, and are cheap.
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stainlesscycle screwed with this post 08-22-2013 at 11:02 AM
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Old 08-23-2013, 10:55 AM   #20
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Well, i'm an idiot. I had my nice digital meter at work, so i went out and got an analog meter to do the ohming on my pulser. Went by the junk yard today and what would you know that every single early cdi pulser coil i tested on yamahas read right around the same ohms, 180 ish. Almost bought the lowest reading one just to be sure but i didnt.

Got to work where i had my regular meter and ohmed out the pulser with it, it's reading perfect, 88.5 ohms, right smack dab in the middle of where it should be. I looked more carefully at the meter, did some light reading, now i realize that the ohms scale has to be zeroed out with the little black dial i was messing with on the meter thinking "hmm what's this do?" *turn turn turn* "Huh, nothing, weird."

So, i guess we're back to CDI crap again. I'm going to recheck the charging coil ohms just to be sure, but it was putting out good voltage and had good ohmage before.

I've got that 5 wire CDI box coming anyway, hopefully that should help shed some light on whats going on.

Some unrelated news, i got a fine from the complex i live in for speeding on the DT through an empty parking lot. If they think that's fast they aught to see it after i get this issue ironed out ;)
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Old 08-23-2013, 12:57 PM   #21
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Never ever had a problem with a pulse coil. If the pulse coil was bad, then I would guess it wouldnt work at all?

But bearing in mind that unless you get all the coils properly rewound, and can find a new CDI unit which will work, you are going to be working with parts that are 40 years old.

The easy way out here might be to get a points ignition from an earlier bike and fit that? Sure you will need to maintain it from time to time, but you will also be able to fix it very easily if anything goes wrong.
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Old 08-23-2013, 02:36 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twin-shocker View Post
...

The easy way out here might be to get a points ignition from an earlier bike and fit that? Sure you will need to maintain it from time to time, but you will also be able to fix it very easily if anything goes wrong.
man, do i love points. easy to maintain, easy to fix in the middle of nowhere if need be, spare parts are pocket change and take up about as much space as pocket change.
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Old 08-23-2013, 04:09 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by dhallilama View Post
man, do i love points. easy to maintain, easy to fix in the middle of nowhere if need be, spare parts are pocket change and take up about as much space as pocket change.
i have a love/hate relationship with points. i stick with cdi...
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Old 08-23-2013, 09:57 PM   #24
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i have a love/hate relationship with points. i stick with cdi...
can't say i've ever had a CDI go out on me (though have had a couple pick up coil failures)
i've also never had points totally go out on me.

every other igntion i've had, has troubled me at least once... usually whilst far from home, at night. why the hell do ignitions never fail *after* a ride, while pulling into the garage?????
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Old 08-24-2013, 02:39 AM   #25
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man, do i love points. easy to maintain, easy to fix in the middle of nowhere if need be, spare parts are pocket change and take up about as much space as pocket change.

Thats it in a nutshell..............anyone able to do very simple basic maintenance work required by a points system, would be better of than relying on an early CDI type.
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Old 08-24-2013, 06:47 AM   #26
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Hmmm.......Points??? Not enough spark energy and too long a spark duration for modern and/or high performance two strokes.

Not to mention the box and ignitor we're talking about is 30+ years old.

man I just went back and reread (apparently for the first time paying attention)this thread.........shocking you through the gas tank? Tell me more.
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Old 08-24-2013, 08:08 AM   #27
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For low revving 2T motors the longer spark duration provided by inductive ignitions improves throttle response, and gives more mid range power. Most importantly though they are easily serviced by users, and spare parts are easily and cheaply available.

However thats not to suggest a CDI system from a more modern bike would not be well worth looking at, and should be easy to find and not expensive.
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Old 08-24-2013, 08:50 AM   #28
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cdi = no breaking up when you are in the upper revs, still delivers enough power fast enough for the coil to collapse. points, if not perfectly set, can float and miss at super high revs..
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Old 08-24-2013, 11:10 AM   #29
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maybe a related note, which i'd not seen yet in this thread...

back to the carburetor for a moment: is the enricher/choke operating properly? ie. is it 100% for sure staying closed? i had a recent issue with one of mine on a mikuni VM where the enricher was slightly opening at kinda high RPM... sometimes... and only when ridden, never on the stand... often enough that i could not get the damn jetting just right. one run it was lean. another run it was rich.
it would go rich enough that it'd miss hard and stumble. RPMs drop and the enricher would close up again... made for an interesting ride.

chased a lot of stuff before stumbling across the enricher issue.

just a thought.
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Old 08-24-2013, 05:00 PM   #30
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Points are never an upgrade from CDI. Ever. Longer duration at lower energy means nothing regardless of RPM. Adequate at best.
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