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Old 09-10-2013, 08:46 AM   #16
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Just a quick note.
The riding is brilliant!

Stopped at niu de sol. What a nice room!!

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Old 09-10-2013, 08:48 AM   #17
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wow - looks totally awesome
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Old 09-10-2013, 09:02 AM   #18
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Nice to see that you're on the road again.
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Old 09-20-2013, 02:54 PM   #19
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Hey we're back!!!
and did we have a great time? you bet your ass we did!!!

Spain, the Pyrenees, the people... fantastic!

The roads? smooth as a billiard table & twistier than Chubby Checker

So, here's the story in pictures. Hopefully I haven't left too much out.

The players:
This is me getting ready to head to Boston



and this is Michelle (my partner in crime)



We have done a couple of trips together to the Alps, with a bit of Italy & France thrown in, but we wanted to try something different. We decided on Spain & rentals from IMT Bikes in Barcelona. We would normally fly out of Providence, but for some reason this year connections from Boston were a lot cheaper... so off we go!

House all packed up?
"yes yes.. I know what I am doing..."



Pays to have a girl who flies hard for a living... upgrade to first? don't mind if I do!



Seems funny to drive to Boston just to fly over one's own house... hey .. wait a sec..



Well, that's OK, Kev & Jodie are coming to spend the night (next week...) Luckily I either a) don't have anything worth stealing, or b) live in a pretty low-key neighborhood. Back to the trip.

Another perk of excessive flying: Envoy Lounge We usually fly on a Monday, so I am texting these pics to coworkers, but this time we're flying on Sunday, so no such abuse.



After a completely uneventful flight we awake to see... SPAIN! Looks like the weather is lovely!



Now normally we'd be on the bikes first thing, but for a change of pace we decided we'd see Barcelona first. We grabbed a cab to the hotel (now I know why Alonso, Marquez, Pedrosa, et al are so fast... they need to be!)

Off we go on a walking tour of Barcelona.. Google maps says "20 minutes walking".. piece of cake....
40 minutes later La Rambla.. and it is time for a coffee!



Not being a normal "go look at churches & old buildings" kind of guy (or Michelle really for that matter) we decided that in this case we would go stroll the Gothic Quarter. We wandered over to Cathedral of the Holy Cross and Saint Eulalia, and I have to say, even though old churches don't usually do anything for me, this one was breathtaking.

Amazing stonework outside



and I have no words to describe the interior



There was a lift to the roof, so up we went....the shots that follow are from that vantage point.











OK... enough church.. jet lag kicking in...



Narrow streets of the Gothic Quarter





Old doors with new graffiti



A view back to the city from the old harbor



I guess it is time to do the wander back the the hotel...we grab a shower, and a nap, and then head out to find some food.

What could be a better end to a day of travel than cold cerveza and mystery tapas?



the riding begins tomorrow.....
stay tuned!
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Old 09-20-2013, 06:40 PM   #20
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nice pics, confusing order though...what no shots of the Dali temple (whatever it's called)?? Shame.
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Old 09-20-2013, 06:52 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by 907Duc View Post
nice pics, confusing order though...what no shots of the Dali temple (whatever it's called)?? Shame.
Pics are in the order of events...
Yeah, we didn't get there. In hindsight we should have bought a couple of tickets on the "jump on / jump off" tourist bus, but that's hindsight...
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Old 09-21-2013, 06:45 AM   #22
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Day 2 in Spain, and time to collect the bikes!
We pack up our stuff and walk the few blocks over to IMT. They told us "around 9:30 or so" so of course we show up at 9:00. The IMT guys come rolling in after a long night of getting bikes ready & ask for just a few minutes... no problem!

Shortly they are wheeling out a matched set of silver BMW F 700 GS's. We've never had matching bikes before... right down to the color!

Michelle busily packing up, takes a moment for the glam shot:



I have to apologize for a lack of pics on the road first day... we are usually pretty focused on getting in the groove, and the cameras seem to stay away. I promise more pics in later days. Pretty uneventful escape from Barcelona ensued. One "go down this road" (that is closed to traffic) ... recalculating, and one "shit turn left" moment that Michelle opted to stay alive versus decorate the hood of a taxi, that meant a phone call of "where are you? I am 2 streets over..." its all good and we were out of town heading northeast.

So, a little back-story: I work for a Dutch sailcloth company here in the States... So when we go on holiday in Europe, we often go by the European offices (the last two years we stayed in Torbole, Italy where Contender Italia is, and never stopped by). Needless to say I get a bit of stick from my Dutch colleagues "why didn't you stop & say hello?" So, since Contender was right on the route I figured we better.



Unfortunately Salva, the owner, was not in, but his wife gave us a tour of their operation, and it was really nice. They do a lot more than just cloth, with parts for power & sail, and all sorts of things. A bit like West Marine here in the States (but for marine businesses).

After that we headed towards "El Montseny Natural Park" with amazing twisting roads & fantastic scenery! I promise more pics of the park, as we came back through on our way back to Barcelona. After the park we angled north towards Olot, and as it was getting near feeding time, we figured we'd stop. We pulled in to Vertisol in Les Preses and the place was jumping! Looked like the whole country was there for lunch. We went for the fixed price lunch & took a wild guess at what we would get... fabulous lunch! Feeling like it was time for a nap, we soldiered on!

Jim K here at ADV had recommended Niu de Sol in Palau Saverdera, and I had made a reservation based on that recommendation.... we were not disappointed! We were warmly greeted & shown to a fantastic room with a terrace!

Michelle said "you did good!" (thanks Jim!)



You can almost see the Med from our terrace...



Nice, quiet little town, with only one "problem". Jim had said the food with half-board was fantastic, but when I inquired I was told "mama wasn't cooking, everyone needs a holiday" sigh.... That's OK though because after a shower I found Michelle had dredged up a bottle of Cava from downstairs!



salud!



It rained a bit, the only rain we would see in Spain, and around 8 o'clock or so it stopped. So with a map in hand & armed with recommendations for restaurants, we set off. We found this cool place a couple of blocks away:

Can Carriot with a tree growing inside!



Michelle decided to try rabbit.. never having had it before. She mowed into it like she hadn't seen food in a few days, and before it was all gone she remembered to snap the ADV shot:



Bit of local red makes Greg a happy camper



As we walked out we spotted an Alpha Mito.... I'd love to have one of these, but they don't import them. Pity.
Michelle got me a picture at least:



So, the end of day one of riding, with about 216 km behind us, some very twisty, some highway, and plenty of good food! I am not sure Spain is good if you're on a diet!



Thanks for reading!
Next up: Cadaqu廥 and the N-260 along the coast to France.
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Old 09-22-2013, 10:05 AM   #23
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Day 3

Based on Glitch-Oz's suggestions we are headed to Cadaqu廥 and the Cap de Creus peninsula, and then up the shore to France.

Checkout time. I went & grabbed the bikes & whipped them round to the hotel entrance (chivalry is not dead) This is a really nice hotel...



On the GI 614 headed towards the sea.



Michelle is always on the lookout for a place we could afford in Europe... she spied this handy-man special down the hillside. I am not 100% sure my builder Bob skills are up to the task...



...and me? I am just enjoying the roads. I really love getting up, having a good breakfast with good coffee, and then hitting a twisty road. All is right in my world today!



Cadaqu廥 is a really beautiful little town on the Med. Loads of good info about it at wiki HERE. The single twisting road coming in (and out) during tourist season though must be HELL! Lucky for us it was early, and there was zero traffic. We park up near the seaside and have a look around.





The windsurfers were out in full force near the mouth of the bay. Apparently the surfing around here is quite good as well. Across from our parking spot there's a statue of Dali. Pretty much everyone walking the streets this morning wanted a pic with him, so we had to wait a bit.... but in the end, we had our chance! Michelle did a pretty good impersonation i think:



We pop into the cafe next to the statue for a coffee and discuss what's next. My partner in crime



OK got my caffeine on.. ready to roll!



Back out the GI 614, to the GI 613, to the GI 612 along the shore, we finally meet up with the N 260. The N260 twists and turns its way along the Med north towards France. Plenty of small finishing villages along the way & really big breeze! No wonder the windsurf guys love this shore. Upon reaching the frontier the first thing you notice is a change in the roads. Spain: billiard table smooth. France: not so much. You can see the difference back by the tower in this picture.



Apparently some people in Catalonia (or maybe wishful thinkers in France?) want to redraw the borders:



Mandatory border crossing shot:



Michelle recording the memories:



The view down to the massive train depot in Cerb鋨e, France



Its pretty damned windy up here, and I think we've got our fill of snapshots, so it is time to press on. The plan is to hit the D914 a bit further north, and then angle inland on D roads finally ending in Carcassonne France for the night. It is a bit ambitious (time and mileage) but we're fresh so off we go!

D roads in France are pretty much bereft of traffic. We can't crack along at high-speed, but we make an enjoyable day of it. Some parts twisty:



Some parts straight:



... and sometimes you just have to stop for a moment & take it all in:



When I had mapped out the route north to Carcassonne, I hadn't really done much research, other than a) stay on back roads, and b) look for twisty roads. By dumb luck I managed to navigate us through Gorges de Galamus They talk about it HERE and you can find tons of very good pics on Google maps. I opted to follow a car though (better to have a blocker) and not bother trying to snap pics on the fly. Michelle of course never likes to miss a photo opportunity, so all photo credit here goes to her:





The road is essentially 1 car wide, and there are loads of pedestrians. If you did manage to go over the edge somehow... it is a very long drop I was happy to dribble along.





Eventually it opens up and normal service is resumed



Loads more D roads ensued. Some seeming little more than a bike path through lovely vineyards. Eventually the citadel of Carcassonne heaves into sight like something out of Game of Thrones! After a bit of navigation issues (down to sun glare & Greg being a bit of a blind git) we find our way to the road up from the citadel to our B&B for the night: Ecuries Sainte Croix. I found this place by accident when searching for places to stay that weren't exactly in the middle of town. Located up on a hill above the city, it is close enough to be convenient, but far enough away to be quiet... perfect!

Our room was located in the little outbuilding off the main house



There's a big Beemer there already, UK plates & the cross of St Andrew flag on the mudflap.



Turns out John & Moira from Scotland are on a four week tour of the area... lovely to be retired. After talking to them for a while, turns out John sails, has friends who live on Vancouver Island (where my bro lives) and is going to vist them later this year (I went out in the spring). Small world.

Once we get cleaned up a bit it is time to head down for some dinner. We decide to go two-up (easier) and set off down the road to town, where we pass John & Moira walking in. We get to the bottom of the hill, and the road is one way to the left.... I want to go right (bike parking is "just there", 100m away) but for some reason I obey the law... (this won't happen again)... hilarity ensues as sans GPS, two up, in sun glare we try and find our way through town. Finally we find the parking area and head in.

Up close.. it is impressive!



Through the gate, the arrow slits would have dissuaded me in time of war!



The inner ring road



As the sun was starting to set (loads of shadow), and because we were hungry, we decided to get some food instead of wandering around too much. We pop in to Les cours de la cit.

Glass of wine, she's a happy girl!



They make their own pate! Lovely!



I got some too (love me some pate......)



As it turns out John 7 Moira were at the same restaurant (but eating inside). As we left we stopped at the wine store & grabbed a bottle of local red for later, and chatted with them as we walked to the parking lot. I felt a little bad they'd be walking home, uphill, in the dark until John explained that Genevieve (the innkeeper) was coming to give them a ride home. Nicely done!

Back up the dark farm road we find the B&B ourselves & sit back to have a glass of wine before bed. It's a lovely starry night, not too cool, and it has been an interesting day of riding. About 280 km of all D roads, a "surprise" trip through a gorge, & dinner in a medieval citadel.... what could be better?


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Old 09-22-2013, 12:17 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by g容g View Post
Day 3

Vancouver Island (where my bro lives) and is going to vist them later this year (I went out in the spring).
Nice a footnote
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Old 09-23-2013, 11:50 AM   #25
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Old 09-24-2013, 04:41 PM   #26
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Morning dawns clear.. again.
they had said it was going to rain, but no sign of it. We walk over to the main house for breakfast, joined shortly after arrival by our Scottish friends John & Moira. Another couple comes in, and greets us with "hola" (I guess they saw our Spanish plates

Of course John quickly corrects them... "he's Canadian... " and we all have a good laugh.
We had a great breakfast with eggs & bacon (thanks to John who had requested it the night before)... it is gonna be a good day!

Looking down on the farms from the B&B



Packed up, we roll down the narrow road towards Carcassonne



It really does look like something out of a story:





Now.. when you reach the end of the lane, the road is one-way left....but after the drama of looping through town last night it is "follow me, we're going right" No gendarmes in sight & we are away with minimal drama.

Traveling the D roads again, we headed south towards the mountains, and Spain.

Snapped this when we stopped to GoPro up



All set



A little D roads snippet / compilation:



Never a car in sight for the most-part, and lovely countryside / scenery.

We start getting in to some of the Cols they did on this year's Tour de France



Fantastic weather



The road ahead looks just as good



Tons of cyclists out today.. kicking myself I didn't fire up strava and get a king of the mountains



OK, enough snaps, time to roll



Starting to run a bit low on gas, we decide to look for a gas station. The Carrefour pumps need a chip and pin.. no good. OK, gas down the street... 5 km... nope, no pumps. Back to place past Carrefour, no, can't help... but if you go pay inside at Carrefour they'll give you a card to pay with. merde! Me coming out with prepaid card



After all that back & forth it is time for coffee and food.
Jambon et beurre s'il vous plait



Protesting "we could have split one, it is pretty big" I somehow manage to eat the whole thing

OK, turned around we get pointed back south out of Ax les Thermes on the road to Andorra.
Andorra is a bit like Vegas meets a shopping mall as you first come in. But the roads are smooth & twisty, and traffic is light once you're past the gas stations full of French drivers. We don't really have a plan for today, so I mention to Michelle "look for a hotel w/ a motorbike sign".

After a while "there's one back there..."
U turn... heading back... "where?"

"There!"

and there it is in four star glory.... hotel Nordic.... oh boy.. this'll be pricey



I wait with bikes...
the old GS is looking good still



In fact they both are



Michelle comes back to get my passport.....
Deluxe room, spa, half board, etc etc 90. Including underground parking.....

sweet!
what a good negotiator

We grab our stuff & head up to room
Our view



Inside it is a big atrium



The terrace (you could ski up to it in the winter...)



... and maybe the best part, in the lobby was a huge collection of old bikes!
Just a couple snapped w/ my cell phone:








We sit out on the terrace, Michelle beaming (she loves a good deal) and have a bit of wine.
It hasn't been a super long day (maybe 175 km or so), but we stopped for pictures quite a bit, and generally just took it easy / had fun. The French "cols" we did were wonderful, and there are more in the days ahead as well.



thanks for reading
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Old 09-25-2013, 11:45 AM   #27
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Day 5?
Maybe today we see rain? They seem to be predicting it, coming down across the UK & France like a big, wet, wave.



A look outside reveals blue skies yet again.... what do the weathermen know?
Off to breakfast!



Remember all the cool old bikes in the lobby of this hotel? Well I have saved the best for last! This lovely old lady is front & center (and now the light is right to show off her curves)



the "spirit of Ecstasy", sort of how I feel when I am in the mountains on a motorbike....



Instead of going directly to Andorra la Vella, we opt for a loop over the Coll d'Ordino.
No traffic, and great views in every direction





My "photo-journalist" at work. Most of the really good snaps are Michelle's, I just do the fill-in.



Smile....



Happy camper.. yup, that's me



We head south out of Andorra and meet up with N260 west in Spain. The road is brilliant, not terribly technical, with sweeping curves & buttery-smooth tarmac. The sun is shining, and the traffic is almost zero. We pull in to the town of Sort, and being close to lunch-time decide to stop. I spied a GS 800 sitting near some outside tables, and figured "if guys who ride eat here..." so we stop for lunch.

Ready for lunch? Si



The guy on the GS was just packing up to leave, his lunch finished, as we arrived. We nodded to him, and he was on his way. Little did we know we would see him again....



After lunch we get gas and head north out of Sort on the C13 to the C28 to Vielha and the French frontier.
Again, the pictures don't do the scene justice.





How's this GoPro work again?



Over the col de peyresourde....



Layer adjustment time



At the bottom of the pass we decide to park up and look for a room



This looks like it may be OK. Using my best high school French (which is rubbish) I manage to get us a room w/ half-board. Good to go.



So, after getting cleaned up, we go sit outside and enjoy a beer in the evening sun.
While we are talking over the day a GS 800 goes by and .. "hey, that's the guy from lunch"

He sees us, loops back, and decides to get a room there too.
More on our new Czech friend tomorrow.

Thanks for reading
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Old 09-25-2013, 05:44 PM   #28
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some pretty nice roads!!
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Old 09-26-2013, 06:02 PM   #29
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Day 6! (in two parts)


After getting breakfast in us & the bikes packed up we run into our Czech buddy Jan.
He went into the next town last night for dinner. He said the menu is completely in French, and no one there spoke either English or German. Welcome to France Jan!


Thinking this would be the last time we got to chat, I figured Id get a snap of Michelle & Jan before we head out.




We hung a right out of the hotel parking and headed for Col dAzet. This climb was part of the 2013 Tour de France, and still had a lot of the road graffiti to encourage the riders.

The weather is spectacular (again) and the views are stunning.




We park at the top of the first climb to snap some pics.










A map of the valley showing local hotels, restaurants and ski lifts. I bet this place is jumping during ski season.




The cows are doing their morning commute down one mountain, up the next.





Up the Col dAspin we start seeing some old cars. At first I figured it was just an enthusiast out for a mountain drive, but as we reached the top of the pass, we found ourselves in the middle of a rally.




Trans-Pyrenees 2013

Plenty of lovely old cars! My brother would have been drooling.









GoPro.. is everywhere!


Of course the other thing we see at the top of the pass? Jan eating his lunch
Michelle went over to say hello we have to stop meeting like this

Plenty of bicycle warriors today too. Everyone is out enjoying the sunshine & fresh air (including us!)




The rally guys are off to their next check-point, and so are we.




Next up is the Col du Tourmalet. This pass is hugely famous in the Tour de France! The traffic going up was a bit heavier than we had gotten used to.. all the rally guys were going here too.

When we reached the summit, we realized there was a bike race coming up the other side. Nothing official, but plenty of folks cheering the favorites on as they made the climb.



Michelle doing her Michelle in the mountains thing




The famous statue of Octave Lapize. Always climbing...






Just one more pic and were off.





On the way to Col d Aubisque we take the road less travelled, either by plan, or by happy accident, and find ourselves in Saint Savin at lunch-time!






In the town square theres a little caf, so we park & head over for some lunch.




The only other customer is a cyclist, eating his lunch. We are surprised when, in a British accent, he says hello.. where are you from then?.


We find out his name is John (that makes 3 for this trip so far!) and that he has come on the cycle bus. Apparently they have a service that travels from the north of the UK picking up cyclists & dropping them off along the way once they get to France. The same system then picks you up as it makes its way back. John was doing 3 weeks in the hills, and his time was just about up. We chatted about the roads, and how nice the weather had been, and then it was time to roll on.

Shots along the way





This girl is always following me...




Ah 4.7% gradient piece of cake. 800cc twin dont fail me now



So it is a bit foggy here at the summit

Possibly time for a change of layers?




I am so happy I am NOT on a bicycle. Three of the four jerseys represented, can you name them?




After dribbling down the mountain in the fog (very happy to follow the cars in front) we stop at the side of the road to stretch & check the map.

Just as we are taking off our helmets guess who arrives? Yup, Jan, our Czech friend has found us again!
I guess there are only so many good motorbike roads, and we seem to have the same ideas.




We chat for a while, look at maps, and discuss plans. I think we are headed to Jaca, theres a pretty cool fort there Jan isnt much for forts, and he thinks hes going more west (although he says he could do east as well).
Saying our goodbyes we saddle up and point ourselves south towards Spain wondering if we may run in to Jan yet again.

The road south






Once youre through the mountains, Spain flattens out and dries out pretty dramatically. It is a completely different climate on the southern side of the Pyrenees.

We dont really have a plan in place, so it is time to resort to the map.



We are currently in Sabi鼁nigo, and Jaca is just up the road.. lets go there!
Map stowed & we are off.

First job, find a hotel. The handy-dandy Michelin Guide App says that hotel Real Jaca, **** is available.. and not terribly pricey! Cool it is right around the corner.

We go check in, stow the bikes, and change into exploring clothes.

part two... exploration of Jaca... to follow.

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Old 09-26-2013, 07:43 PM   #30
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nice cars!!
I think you need a Guzzi intervention before BMW guy is irreversible lol
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