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Old 09-03-2013, 02:04 PM   #151
Littlepeter
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There's gas and groceries at Howley. I fill up, and am engaged in conversation for about 20 minutes before entering the store. They don't make you pay first here. If it was the States, they'd have you in handcuffs for non-payment by that time.

I come in and say I'm sorry for the delay. "Oh, Lord, I knew you were outside talkin'!," the proprietress exclaims. People trust one another here.

Anton and I grab cold drinks and snacks. There's a sign that says "corned fish" is available here. I've never heard of it, although it turns out to be moist salt cod. The cheerful lady spends time explaining local recipes and how to prepare it. "Have you had th' fish an' brewis yet?," she asks. I say no, no place we've stopped has offered it. Most of our dinners have been catered by Mountain House. She's gravely concerned. "You can't leave without trying fish and brewis."

She calls a fellow over, and a deep conversation ensues. They suggest a number of places where we can sample it, but none are on our route. I don't have the cooking gear to deal with the corned fish, which is not sold by the pound, but by the fish. I've donated my hard bread to the birds, in any event. Next time through.
I bought a moose lapel pin here when I crossed the T'railway. It has remained on my tank bag and saw me safely across NL on that trip and two others . Howley is also where the moose were introduced to NL in 1904. Did you see the statue and plaque there?

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Old 09-03-2013, 02:15 PM   #152
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I saw the moose, but missed the plaque. The diet here would be a lot sparser without moose. We saw moose skulls and bones just about every day, and saw about six live ones. I wish that time allowed going down to Burgeo, as I would have liked to see some caribou. Next time through!

We had a bumper sticker that was popular here that said, "Moose is good food", and so it is.
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Old 09-03-2013, 02:34 PM   #153
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There's gas and groceries at Howley. I fill up, and am engaged in conversation for about 20 minutes before entering the store. They don't make you pay first here. If it was the States, they'd have you in handcuffs for non-payment by that time.

I come in and say I'm sorry for the delay. "Oh, Lord, I knew you were outside talkin'!," the proprietress exclaims. People trust one another here.
During our time on the island I heard only one siren and saw the police car using it. There were no other LEO's to be seen. In fact, from my border entry at Callais Maine, all the way to N Sidney and back I saw zero cops.

Maybe these folks require less "supervision"?

Maybe their cops hide better than the ones I see at home?
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Old 09-03-2013, 02:49 PM   #154
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All too soon, we're across the bridge at Mary March and down to Millertown Junction. This will be our last taste of the Trailway for this trip. We're headed to Buchans and then Red Indian Lake. I know it's possible to follow the old ASARCO mining railway to Buchans from here, but I haven't been able to find any information on it. Later, we'll run into our friend on the quad that I talked to in Deer Lake. He's come down that way, and says that some of the bridges are really bad. When a Newfoundlander says that a road is really bad, it's a good thing to listen. They aren't wimps around here, and I don't see very many Lexus SUVs on the roads.

This little shack may have been a sectionman's cabin. It's right across from the scant remains of the Millertown Junction station.



You can see the remains of the train platform in the foreground. There's an active group of cottages here. It's Saturday afternoon, and it's obvious that some of the residents have been celebrating. A group of men two-up on quads passes us, hooting and hollering.

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Old 09-03-2013, 02:55 PM   #155
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I saw one or two police trucks. They use pickup trucks up by St. Barbe.

Rural Newfoundland didn't have a police force at all until 1935, although there were police in the larger towns. In 1935, the Newfoundland Ranger force was formed. Although the Rangers were nominally game wardens, their duties went far beyond that. During the fifteen year period until 1950, when the Rangers were joined with the RCMP, only 204 men served in total, and never more than 72 at any given time -- about the size of a police force in a small city.

The Royal Newfoundland Constabulary is the oldest police force in North America, existing since 1729, but only provides enforcement to St. John's and vicinity and Corner Brook on the island, and Labrador City and Churchill falls on the mainland.

With the amount of personal property along the roads here (wood, lobster traps, etc), I'm pretty sure the locals do a good job at self-policing. I know I'd hate to be the one caught stealing another's traps or firewood.

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During our time on the island I heard only one siren and saw the police car using it. There were no other LEO's to be seen. In fact, from my border entry at Callais Maine, all the way to N Sidney and back I saw zero cops.

Maybe these folks require less "supervision"?

Maybe their cops hide better than the ones I see at home?
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Old 09-03-2013, 03:26 PM   #156
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Buchans is interesting in a gritty sort of way. Unlike the seacoast villages which are spread out in an organic plan, Buchans is a grid of similar-looking buildings, obviously a company town. There's a gas pump by the grocery store, which is far larger and better stocked than anything we've visited in a town of this size. They even have items on sale, which I've not seen elsewhere. The sign out front is interesting. They don't roll like that down south!



Anton and I ride around the mine site for a little bit. We certainly don't cover anything but a fraction of it. It stretches for miles.




Photo by Anton
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Old 09-03-2013, 04:19 PM   #157
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Anton and I head down Red Indian Lake road looking for a place to camp. There's some pleasant views of the lake, but the riding is not particularly interesting. This is a gravel superhighway meant to pull trees out of the woods as quickly and efficiently as possible, and it's apparent they do just that. I would be very cautious riding this road during the week.

There's a big hole in the decking of one of the bridges which wakes me up, though!

Anton finds blueberries:


Photo by Anton

It's obvious that most of the likely camping places by the lake are occupied by cottages. However, to the northwest, away from the lake, there are occasional roads going up the hillside. We turn up one of these. A fellow on a quad is coming down, and he yells that we should watch for washouts.

Washouts are plentiful! I catch this shot of Anton coming out of one of the better ones. My camera isn't quick enough to get the action, so I made it into a half-assed art shot. Yeah, I meant to do that.



We ascend high above the lake, and find a tailor-made campsite. There's plenty of wood around, a fire ring, and a level place to pitch the tents.



The campsite has Anton's seal of approval. It turns out that Adam camped at a similar spot just a little down the road the night previously.



We spend a cold night with a big fire. Coyotes howl off in the distance. We're ringed by stars. What a monumental place!
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Old 09-03-2013, 04:31 PM   #158
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Buchans is interesting in a gritty sort of way. Unlike the seacoast villages which are spread out in an organic sort of way, Buchans is a grid of similar-looking buildings, obviously a company town. There's a gas pump by the grocery store, which is far larger and better stocked than anything we've visited in a town of this size. They even have items on sale, which I've not seen elsewhere. The sign out front is interesting. They don't roll like that down south!

[IMG]URL=http://s782.photobucket.com/user/canuman/media/Western%20Newfoundland%20August%202013/DSCF2225_zpsb33830d9.jpg.html[/IMG]
In Labrador it's very common for stores to close for lunch and supper, and when you're up on the coast often they're not open on the weekends at all.

Not very convenient when you're 300kms from home on a snowmobile.
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Old 09-03-2013, 04:40 PM   #159
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178 miles and some sporty and challenging sections. Not too shabby.

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Old 09-03-2013, 04:42 PM   #160
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Somewhere between Millertown and Buchans, the lens pops out of my sunglasses and spins off down the road. If anyone finds a brown-tinted bifocal sunglass lens out that way, you know who it belongs to.
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Old 09-03-2013, 05:18 PM   #161
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Somewhere between Millertown and Buchans, the lens pops out of my sunglasses and spins off down the road. If anyone finds a brown-tinted bifocal sunglass lens out that way, you know who it belongs to.
I think I may have spotted you on your way through.

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Old 09-03-2013, 06:03 PM   #162
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Hah! A similar thing happened to Rich earlier in the trip while talking to the bank teller with the impressive -- um -- impressive personalities in Port Saunders. As he was exchanging currency, the screw dropped out of his lens and rolled off who knows where. The Suave Swede didn't miss a beat, and asked for a paperclip to make repairs.

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Old 09-03-2013, 06:41 PM   #163
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Hah! A similar thing happened to Rich earlier in the trip while talking to the bank teller with the impressive -- um -- impressive personalities in Port Saunders. As he was exchanging currency, the screw dropped out of his lens and rolled off who knows where. The Suave Swede didn't miss a beat, and asked for a paperclip to make repairs.

I was just stalling to give you guys more time to enjoy the scenery there.
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Old 09-03-2013, 06:47 PM   #164
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You're OK in my book, Rich. I don't care what your friends say about you.

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I was just stalling to give you guys more time to enjoy the scenery there.
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Old 09-03-2013, 06:48 PM   #165
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The Final Day -- Slab, Poutine, Flat Tires, and the Newfoundland Erzberg

We're up before sunrise. Today's mission is to make Port Aux Basques, as we're scheduled to be on the ferry the next morning. We're planning to camp close to PAB, as our record of getting on the road before ten isn't stellar, and we have to be in the loading line at 9:45 AM.

Coffee and freeze-dried eggs later, along with some fresh bread and butter purchased in Buchans, we're ready to roll. The bread and butter is a simple treat. The freeze-dried menu is wearing, although it's saved us a great deal of time and money. As I can't carry the remaining two ounces of butter, I donate it to the local critters. Hopefully, it will help them make it through the winter. I've brought a coffee press and real ground coffee. The coffee press was a gift from inmate Barbsironbutt, and is one of my treasured pieces of kit. On a trip like this, little treats along the way make the good times better and the bad days tolerable.

Back down through the washouts, and we're once again on Red Indian Lake Road. We're wistful about leaving this area, though. It seems that there are hundreds of more miles to be discovered, and from the looks of things, the locals could tell us a lot about where to go. Next time through.

We wind off down Red Indian Lake. It's dusty, and Anton has graciously allowed me to lead. The dust is pretty bad. Oftentimes, he's a mile behind to avoid choking to death. Even so, his face looks racoonish from the grime and sweat.

As we parallel Lloyds River, the road drops its expressway character and becomes narrower and more interesting to ride. I look at the river, and wish for my favorite five-weight trout rod and a book of flies. I could spend a couple of days casting over these waters and be happy. There are a number of outfitters with "sports" doing just that. They'll go back telling everyone of their world-class fishing trip, although I'd not trade ours for a moment.

As a trout fisherman, I dream of the native brookies in these waters. There's so much water here that most of the fish have likely never been bothered by a human presence.


Photo by Anton

If you cast to that slick water on the right and let the line drift down, I'd bet something would bump the fly.


Photo by Anton
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