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Old 08-06-2014, 04:41 PM   #1
mleikarnes OP
mleikarnes's Avatar
Joined: Sep 2012
Location: Fræna, Møre og Romsdal, Norway
Oddometer: 98
A ride from Norway through the Alps in 2012

Hey there!
I'm a bit bored at night watch on an platform supply vessel in the North sea so i thought I would translate my trip report from our trip to the Alps two years ago!

There was a miserable summer in Norway at the time... so we decided early on to go down to the Alps! 3 weeks in the Alps (28.07.2012 to 18.08.2012), and 50 passes! When I work in the North Sea on a subsea vessel I am free every month, so time was determined to right this time. On a Triumph Tiger 1050 SE ABS 2011 and a 22 year old Suzuki GS500E with 76.000km on the counter, bought for 5000 nok. kroner. Refurbished and rebuilt as a caferacer during the winter.

A lot of pictures have been taken and over 100 GB of video ... (recently purchased by such a GoPro camera)

Every night on the trip west from Austria drifted with navigation, drawing on the map and the cooperation with Google Maps on our computer to find out where to run the next day. During the trip it has been bought a lot of new maps, as we forgot to bring all the maps from previous trips to Europe ...

The tour has been going on very varied road surfaces: Norwegian roads (rain), Freeway, Autobahn, narrow asphalt roads, Cobbled roads, unpaved roads! and even a little bit grassy tractor road!

28.07.2012 The trip started from home (Armagh just north of Molde near the Atlantic road) and down to Oslo where we would take the boat to Copenhagen. To say what they said on the news, Saturday, 28.07 was the day in 2012 it had rained most ... it goes saying, but the trip started with boots and full Rain overalls. it, 500km in a thunderous rain. Get us on board the ferry to Copenhagen in the end, and got hung up rain clothing and equipment dry. Ferry from Oslo to Copenhagen is strongly recommended as it is about half the price of the Kiel ferry!

29.07.2012 The ferry arrived in Copenhagen around noon. 10 morning, the relief was great when we saw the weather in Copenhagen, and over 20 degrees.

As usual it is completely impossible to find the right way out of Copenhagen, when there is only one sign signs to Rodby Havn / Puttgarten. This is our 3rd attempt at 3 years to find the right way out of Copenhagen, when we do not use fancy equipment like GPS, but we buy maps on the way. We had with us the GPS from the car as backup to find if it gets too hard on the old way ... Eventually we found our way out of Copenhagen and got on the highway with direction Rødby Havn / Puttgarten. Arrived Rødbyhavn with a 10-minute margin on the next ferry, Perfect! It is a nice ferry ride over to Puttgarten, with some fast food in Resturang and tax-free for the one who holds it ...

When we had started to run towards Hamburg, crossing the bridge till the mainland Germany. Of course it started raining again, it was a stop at full speed on a coach stop, and putting on raingear once again. We also struggled a bit with our new Scala Rider G9 intercoms, had not read well enough with how they worked. It was a damp pleasure to drive down to Hamburg, where considered magically stopped again. We even had to get out the GPS to find Autozug entry is not easy with these great cities ... Had not tank bag so it became a bit "innovative" way to attach the GPS on ...

We got on board the train, which was completely new to us, did not rely entirely on those who were strapping down bikes, but it turned out that they could what they did! Slightly crooked to sleep in a "cabin" with 5 berths ... And it had to be the world's toughest and thinnest mattress ...

Shall not say much about the food we were served for breakfast ... then this is not worthy of any mention. It is approximately 150km Rødby Havn from Copenhagen and about 150km from Puttgarten and Hamburg

30.07.2012 Arrived in Munich at 6:25 so for once we were up early! Getting out of Munich was actually easy! when the station Autozug arrive situated on the south side of town, it was just taking the first left, then first right and straight on to the motorway! We turned off the highway for a distance and continued on a yellow road towards Kufstein in Austria. Drove over our first pass here, Ursprongpass it was called, but I would rather say that it was a valley ... (in the Bavarian Alps) We took a break in Kufstein and drove on towards St. Johann in Tirol, where Mom and my sister was waiting for us, we had rented an apartment there for 1.5 weeks, they had already been there for a few days. This was the shortest of all the stages of our day with only 120km.

Hauser Appartments they called themselves the rental folks, St. Johann in Tirol is just the right size to be a while, they had normal pedal bikes to borrow, that they used a portion of shop tours, when there was a lot longer to drive to the store than to ride / walk!

31.07.2012 We decided rather suddenly in the morning to drive down to Grossglockner, to run over the pass and down to Heiligenblut and lunch. My sister rode with my dad, mom remained in St. Johann. We started to drive to Zell Am See, and from there up the Grossglockner.

It cost 25 Euro, I believe it was to drive up the pass, this is the only one of the 50 passports we ran where we had to pay cash!

We drove right up on EDELWEISSPITZE where we parked and took some obligatory photos! And bought some "mandatory" animal souvenirs ... Then we drove on down to Heiligenblut for lunch, went on a resturang and asked for a sandwich and a coke. The waiter was certainly not completely satisfied with this affordable, primitive election ... but the sandwiches arrived finally!

Dad had to see how the Gasthaus he and my mom stayed at 20 years ago looked today.

It looked very worn and old, it was even for sale!

In action pictures from my sister on the back of the Triumph We drove from Heiligenblut and again towards the Grossglockner, but we decided to swing by and run up to the Kaiser Franz Josef Höhe. Believe it or not, there is actually a huge car museum high up in the mountains! It also has a great big glacier ...

Then we drove down Grossglockner again, and further west to Mittersill and over an unnamed pass to Kitzbühel and the apartment again. The trip was a little over 200km. We had nice weather, but it was a bit cloudy ...
01.08.2012 to 07.08.2012 We were on various small motorcycle tours around, based in St. Johann. We included a trip to Salzburg and acted a good deal on Louis! New motorcycle suit amongst other things! We were also up on the Kitzbühel Horn ... Dad went all the way up on foot! As for me and my mom cheated a bit ... We had read that you could pay to drive up three-quarters of the way! This road was called Kitzbuehel Panorama Strasse, and it was indeed in a panoramic way! Then we went up to the top of the Kitzbühel Horn and met Dad at the top, to say it like that was not cut by three quarters by driving up the lightest either ... it was incredibly steep to get up the last quarter!

View towards St. Johann!

A few nights there was also some terrible rain showers with both lightning and thunder! But luckily it began always late at night and was again in the morning!


Note the SPAR store! (Wonder what they paid to have it there ...)

Zell am See:
07.08.2012 Started driving passes, the goal was to come west to France! First stop was Louis in Innsbruck, to buy and replace new brake pads (brake pads from the hardware store can not be more than 2000 km!) We proceeded to drive over Brenner Pass to Italy, then the Passo Jaufen to St. Leonardo.

Then we took a detour into Austria again via Timmelsjoch, as we drove back down the same road.


Then we drove down to Merano, we stayed in a small town on a hill above Merano where we had been recommended to stay. Dorf Tirol / Merano
08.08.2012 The first pass of the paper for the day was not so unknown Passo del Stelvio!

But not everyone thinks:

It is just amazing to drive down the "backside" of the Stelvio! Then we headed to Switzerland via some other passes and roads in Italy: Passo di Fraele to Lake Cancano, a slightly remote way we saw while we were driving up a valley. This proved to be an amazing way! We saw not even the Germans when we got up! Germans are something found in every one of the small roads in Norway!

We found a giant dam on top!

Then we drove up the Passo di Foscagno, there is even an armed toll on top in Livigno, a "Duty Free / Tax Free" municipality in Italy

So we headed to St. Moritz from Passo d'Eira over Forcola di Livigno and into Switzerland and the Passo del Bernina to St. Moritz. We took a break in St. Moritz, long time searching for an ATM that we finally did. we drove over Julierpass Savognin, Switzerland, where we stayed at ("biker friendly" as it stood) Hotels Romagnola. A "navigation event" while we waited for dinner, resulted in an overturned Cola and that we had run a little too long to get us the most passes, it was decided that we would drive over Julierpass again. So there were a few mil wasted queuing for Circus Trucks that day ... but but!
09.08.2012 The day started with running over Julierpass in Silvaplana, the Maloja Pass, where we actually were deceived into one way or another arrangement of two types of vests that were to led traffic onto a small lane in a huge parking lot .. ., we thought it was a detour, but we quickly realized that we were not going that way! Conclusion: do not rely on the kinds of reflective vest sitting in a camping chair and waving everyone into a narrow road! When we drove past a small town so we were suddenly in a road that went far up the mountain, it was not even on the map. And peasant who we are, we drove just as good up this way, it was at first very long and steep in the city, then went over to a dirt road through the woods, and suddenly it was asphalt again and then gravel again .. . (have all this on film so it can be proven!) the road ended in a cottage area where they were to build a cottage housing estate!

We also found an amazing little town by running a small side road!

We drove further down the valley, took off in Italy again and drove over Splügenpass down to Splügen, where Dad would look at the campsite he and my mom stayed at 20 years ago. it was actually still there! Then we continued over the Passo del San Bernardino and from there up to Airolo and the St. Gottard pass (cobblestones!) We started to run up the passport without quite knowing where to run ... and it turned out not to so good! we missed and had to run a small mil back along the highway to get to a junction and turn back. We stopped at the tourist information office at the train station, where we were told to first follow the green signs and follow the white signs to find St. Gottard Tremola (cobblestones). You must first run through Airolo, then keep left until you drive past a military barracks. You come to a big intersection after this, where you have to swing by the white sign for St. Gottard Tremola.

After running over St. Gottard pass we came down to Andermatt, where we had planned to stay the whole 2 nights, to run some pass nearby and relax a bit. We had a little trouble finding "Zimmer frei" in Andermatt, as this is a very "touristy" place! We asked a few hotels, but we felt it was just too expensive! But a little further up the slopes of Andermatt center, we found a sign that read, "Zimmer frei"! The old lady (who absolutely guaranteed to be multimillionaire) who rented out, said it was supposed to get some. But she was not quite sure if they came because they had not left any contact information or said when they were coming. She said if they were arrived at. 19.30 so we could get the room, so we went down and ate dinner at a hotel, when we called back she told me that there had not been any! When we got up and saw the room (you can not really call it a room ...) I would rather call it a big apartment with winter garden (not to mention, it was CHEAPER than at a hotel down in the city!). After some intensive effort in getting to the internet, we got the code and everything, but it just would not work! So I was planning on using the old map! We planned to drive down the last bit of Oberalppass, the Sust Pass, on the Grimselpass. And then over Nufenenpass down to Airolo, and once over St. Gottard pass again.

After coming back to Andermatt, we decided that it was too early to eat dinner so we drove up to the top of Oberalppass.

[img][ img]
Andermatt is a hub for all three passes, St. Gottardpass, Oberalppass and Furkapass.


11.08.2012 The night before we decided to continue south west bound for France. We began by driving over Furkapass, down to Simplonpass. We drove up and down Simplonpass just to have done it on the way back down we saw a road that went down. And curious as we are, we just had to try to find it! We were quite sure that there had to be an old road over the pass, so we looked for it. We drove down a road behind a cafe, it was paved, but it ended suddenly right in a forest, it was paved right to the edge of the forest. We came to the conclusion that they may have changed his mind during construction, or that a landslide had taken out the rest of the way. We drove back a bit, and then we turned off and drove down a dirt road that went down. It was a bad way ... It ended with a grassy road that went up to an old farmyard, where the "lawn" went into a path. Found out that it was best not to tempt fate by continuing down! We also got to see an old steam locomotive with operating forge gears up Furkapass!

Having come down again from Simplonpass, we drove down to Visp, where we drove up a road in the mountain. We had planned to take us a little secluded place to have lunch, then we had with us rolls. We found a bench in the middle of a field, where we ate and tried to coordinate with us a little map, we should find a dirt road over a pass.

The gravel road we were driving went over a ski resort called Croix de Cour, first began deep in a forest and then go over to a very bad dirt road up the mountain and forth in a ski resort. We looked hard for a place to stay, we finally found a hostel (I think we should call it) it was 1.5 star standard, or perhaps not stars at all ... Later in the evening we decided to drive over a small pass to Martigny to dinner. There were actually some music / art festival there, but there was nothing interesting ... We drove back to Osiere same way, in the dark indeed.

12.08.2012 The day started with a breakfast at the "hostel" (not some impressive breakfast), then we started towards Col du Grand Saint Bernard and into Italy.

Then we headed towards the Col du Petit Saint Bernard, France and Val d'Isere!

And of course we even saw a dirt road that led up to something on a mountain top. So we did just as likely an attempt to get us up!

But we found that it was best to quit while the going was good ... It was, to put it in a gentle way, very steep and large stone in the road, that certainly was not a road ... Then we came to France and went on down towards Val d'Isere, when we arrived there had been some Motor Show!

Then we went up the Col d'Iseran!

And then we put the front wheel against Italy again, over the Col du Mont Cenis.

Well built in Italy again, we headed towards a path I had seen on Google Maps. This road went over to Sestriere in Italy. We started up, first it started as a good asphalt road uphill ...

Then went way over in a very bad and rough dirt road that climbed up high up in the mountains!

I would say that this is the tip of Italy on the dirt road! Absolutely incredible way, that we could not understand why they had built a road far up there!

Not many people can say that they have run up to 2536 meters above sea level on a gravel road with two street motorcycles! Down in Borgata Sestriere, we had shown how long the gravel road we chose to run was, we would probably not run over there at all ... It was a little over 60km long and very tiring and dusty driving! We saw someone who drove crossbikes up there, and a lot of modified Toyota Land Cruiser ... It may say something about the way we drove ... have 2-3 hours of film this way!

Lets say I was a bit "dusty" of gravel driving! We were a lap around the small town and asked around for us to borrow a water hose to the flushing of the bikes and clothing. But it seemed like they were a little afraid to use water-frills there. So the only thing that was done was to lubricate the chains and more. After that, it was a long shower in an old hotel we found on the road. The suit was washed in the shower ... We found a small pizza restaurant in down town where we miraculously got us ordered two pizzas without knowing a single word of Italian, as they only spoke Italian at Restaurat! After that it was a good night's sleep in one of the quietest places I have ever been on, total silence after the darkness came!
13.08.2012 This day we had a goal to see Lake Annecy and go north towards Germany again! We started running over Montgenevro matched up Col du Lautaret, a small quick trip up the Col du Galiber

Then back down to the Col du Lautaret and on the Col du Glandon, Col de la Croix de Fer and Col de la Madeleine as the last pass for this trip to the alps!

After leaving the Alps this time, the trip to the Annecy in France, we came to Lake Annecy around four o'clock. And we decided to follow the yellow road around the lake and not the red ... It is safe to say that it was not so smart to follow this path, considering the time ... We think bl stuck for over an hour in line, hand work after all clutch slippage! We came finally through Annecy and out the other side, then we headed north to Geneva in search of "Zimmer frei" / Hotel. We came to a small place called Neydens entirely on the Swiss border, here we finally found the Hotel Ibis. We had to have food too, so we thought we'd try to find a town where we could buy a simple kebab. This turned out to be not so easy, but eventually we found a kebab parlor! The reason we decided that we were going to see Lake Annecy was that Dad had always wondered what it looked like in there ...
14.08.2012 The night before we had found that the Nürburgring was not one for too long detour in relation to our route. So we started northwards, with a goal to get as now close to the Nürburgring as possible on that day. We drove through Geneva, Lausanne, Bern, Basel and Freiburg, before we swung northward towards the Nürburgring at Karlsruhe. There was a lot of highway driving that day. We found a hotel at the end of the day here too, a hotel really was not open, it seemed almost like! But we got rooms here also got to park the bikes under the parasol in the bar!

15.08.2012 We started the day with a breakfast at the hotel was nothing to boast of, so to speak ... We headed for the Nurburgring right after breakfast, we decided that we would take a detour and drive a few km along the Mosel river in the Mosel valley. After some hours we came to the Nürburgring!

It was disappointing enough nothing happened on the track, except a few private cars milled around now and then. We'd would like to run on the track, but we were too early for that.

We bought some t-shirts and various other things, ran a trip to look for a Classic Motorcycle Racing Museum, which of course turned out to be closed!Having been at the Nürburgring we headed towards Bremen, there was a fair amount of highway driving again ... We stayed at a hotel in a town called Wildeshausen just south of Bremen, the hotel we stayed at had really not opened it yet either, but we got to rent rooms at least. To continue the tradition so was the breakfast good at this hotel! We also ordered the ferry ride back home here, Kiel to Oslo 17.08.2012.

16.08.2012 Dad talked with a German work colleague who lives in Hannover night before since we had a whole day to kill so we drove just as well down to Hannover to stay with him. We arrived early for Hannover, we visited Louis and traded various things we found out that was a good idea to have on tour. Then we headed towards the area where Volker stayed, but we were early, so we parked the bikes and walked into the city center to look around and do some shopping. When Volker came home, we went back to him and got put into bags and showered us. With Volker as the "guide" and German, we learned a lot about what it's like to live in Germany vs Norway. He also told me that if you had a car and found a good parking space, one should never use it again. It could happen, you have to come to park 3 km away (glad I do not live in any city!). We were at a local resturang and ate dinner, then we went down to a festival that will be held annually at a large sea Nazis had dug during World War II.

17.08.2012 Heading towards the Kiel ferry! We drove up the freeway to Kiel. Kiel arrived a little too early then again, it was a little act of shopping once again here too (a book for the ferry ride home...), can not understand why Norwegians are going down there to shop ... There is so absolutely not cheaper than in Norway! We got on board the ferry and got us a good meal before the rest of the evening was spent with relaxation in the lounge overlooking the Kattegat. We also had to strap the bikes ourselves on the Kiel ferry, (was smart of me to borrow some nice round straps used on Autozug in Germany to stick on bikes) ...
18.08.2012 Finally Norway again! We arrived in Oslo at ten o'clock, I think it was, Dad was going to visit some relatives and I headed home! Of course it had to start RAINING once again !!! But I was stubborn and would not stop and leave me the terrible rain suit! Also had to test how watertight the new Vanucci suit was! It passed the test with a 500km in the pouring rain! Back home after a 7500km long trip in the Alps and Europe I would say it has been a wonderful experience! We agree that the Eastern Alps is the finest running in, so in a few years there will probably be a trip back down and east! The 22-year-old Suzuki consisted one7500km's test without problems, it was just a little thirsty for oil.
Alps: -Mleikarnes
Leikarnes MC
-93 BMW K1100RS
-11 Triumph Tiger 1050
-84/-96 BMW K100/K1100 under rebuilding to sidecar bike.
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