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Old 09-11-2013, 01:47 AM   #46
disston
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I put O-rings on with a little grease on them but I didn't use any sealant on the oil pump cover. May be helpful but if the O-ring does it's job I don't see any purpose.

Use Honda Moly 60 to lube the splines of the trans lightly when putting it all back together. Don't use too much. Don't apply to the clutch splines, only to the trans splines.

You still have to remove the bearings and clean and lube these on the rear wheel. Don't put grease in the splines until it's almost time to put it back together because sitting around it will catch dirt.

Put the oil pan gasket on dry. No sealant.

One of the oil pan screws over by the oil filter is drilled all the way through. This screw at least should have some Silicone or Loctight on it or it will leak. I have put the oil pan screws on with Blue Loctight on all of them but they work fine with out it if the screw threads are clean and retightened after a 100 miles.

There are several things in Clymer's that I and many others don't care for. Using sealant in places that don't need it is one. This will only make it harder to replace the oil pan gasket another day.
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Old 09-11-2013, 10:29 AM   #47
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Your flywheel bolts, 11mm, tighten to 75-76 ft/lbs of torque. Threads should be clean and dry. Apply torque in three stages, as is normal.

The oil pump cover with phillips screws. Use Blue Loctight. Torque is 72 in/lbs. or 6 ft/lbs. This is a very small setting. I'm always tempted to not use a torque wrench when dealing with small torque values. When it is actually probably more important.

These will of course be two different torque wrenches. I hope you have them or can borrow.
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Old 09-11-2013, 11:37 AM   #48
Natter2002 OP
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rear main seal questions

I will upload a picture of what I found when I get home from work but:

1) WHen I was trying to pull it out by just grabbing it with my fingers I pulled a spring out that was in a circle, inside the inner lip of the RMS. I'm not describing it better because I'm assuming you know what I mean. Will that be on the new piece, do I need to keep it? It is undamaged.

2) Again while pulling on it with my fingers I tore a lip off of it. Luckily it didnt fall into the crank case but that made me nervous and I stopped after trying to seperate it from the metal at a different spot. It tore away again. It appears to be glued on. Is that normal? Edit: I have found an old thread where Supershaft said to pull it out with a common seal puller. I'll see if Napa has one of those on my way home.

3) I see on the Northwoods BMW site there is a tool that is sold to install the new RMS. Do I *really* need to buy that? DOesnt this new RMS just pop in? I have time. I havent even ordered my new RMS yet.

4) Any recommendation on a set of torque wrenches that are middle of the road quality wise would be greatly appreciated too!! I dont have any small ones.

Thanks! Nathan

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Old 09-11-2013, 02:54 PM   #49
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The spring that came out of the old seal is part of the old seal construction. The new seals don't have a spring. The new seals work with out a spring. It is trash.

Policy; Put all trash in a bag or box. Anything removed now to be replaced will be saved until the bike is up and running again. Sometimes it happens that you throw something away you think you don't need. It's only a problem if the trash has been picked up. So at this point save all the trash till you are done. And then a week more actually.

I have the tool and like using it. I have seen others replace this seal with out using that tool but using a large socket or something to beat the new seal in. If you mess up one seal and have to buy another this is false economy because the seal cost twice as much as the tool to install it. BTW. the seal is not installed flush with the area surrounding the bore. You should measure the height of the seal. It doesn't have to be exact but see the worn spot on the flywheel where the seal sits and how high the seal is in the bore and see if the seal is in the right position. Sometimes if the seal is installed all the way in it will not contact enough of the flywheel. The deeper the seal the farther out towards the edge of the flywheel it will be. And to make this even harder to calculate, the new seal doesn't have the lip in the same place as the old one.

So yes, I like using the installation tool instead of a hammer and a block of wood.

I also like the flywheel holding tool at this point because when torquing the flywheel bolts it is easier to not have to hold on to a screwdriver or a pry bar with one hand while using a big torque wrench with the other.

I have not given you the torque for the clutch screws yet. The six screws that hold the pressure plate on and hold the entire clutch in place. Have you made something to center the clutch disk yet? Another tool that can be worked around but the ones being sold do work very well. I think Cycle Works has deals on sets of tools where you save a couple dollars by getting all the stuff for certain jobs. You still need your three screws to compress the pressure plate, a reverse of the operation to remove the clutch.



This is the most common version of a seal puller you will find. The same tool is made by many different people. They are all pretty much the same. Your NAPA Store will have this same tool. And it's reasonably priced. But it will be cheaper at Harbor Freight if you have one of those around. When you are working with tools like this or screwdrivers or what ever you use to get the old seal out be careful to not scratch the crankshaft or the thrust bearing under the seal. Use a piece of wood or plastic scrap to press on when prying so you don't scratch anything.

The RMS is a tight fit in the bore of the block. Sometimes they are even glued in. The outer rim of the seal is metal. It is not thick. You have to reach under the inner edge of the seal pull from as close to the metal edge as possible to get it out. The seal puller is sharp enough that it tears into the seal. Move the puller around to another spot if it tears all the way thorough. Eventually you will get the old seal out. BTW, this seal is almost always destroyed when pulling it out.

What brand(s) of torque wrenches do you now have? If any. What numbers on these torque wrenches. Minimum/maximum?
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Old 09-11-2013, 04:23 PM   #50
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Wrenches:

One that I have is a snap type and is called a Proto 6008. I came from my grandpas garage with a bunch of spark plug stuff. It goes up to about 75 foot pounds down to zero.

The other is a beam type. I do not see a name brand on it, it doesnt sit at zero, which is troubling. It swings up to 150 Ft Pounds both ways.

I bought the seal puller you showed on my way home. It popped the seal right out in maybe 5 seconds. Where I thought I had been pulling glued-down seal material off the metal of the engine was actually just the metal ring in the seal itself.


While running my fingernail around the smooth surface where the seal had sat I can snag a fingernail on a tiny imperfection. I am assuming this could be a serious issue? Opinion on this? Obviously it should be completly smooth.

I was going to find a centering tool until I read somewhere if you use everything over again you don't need it.

PS: My god, what is going on with my picture size! I'm afraid to post more!
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Old 09-11-2013, 04:40 PM   #51
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What tool is this? Another kind of seal puller?

http://imageshack.us/a/img198/7219/iong.jpg
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Old 09-11-2013, 04:43 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Natter2002 View Post
Don't know.
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Old 09-11-2013, 05:04 PM   #53
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Unfortunately the best wrench you have there is the Proto but it is too small for the flywheel bolts and too big for the oil pump cover screws. It will work fine on cylinder head nuts and maybe the clutch bolts (which I haven't checked figures for yet but think it's gonna be right in there.)

The beam wrench sounds like a piece of junk. These old beam wrenches hardly bring $10-$20 when they are in good condition. I would throw that one away.

The work you have to do can all be done with beam wrenches. Clicker wrenches are better but if you get beam wrenches now you will be able to check clicker wrenches against them later. You will be able to check the Proto you have already.

How much money you want to spend on torque wrenches? Right now it looks like you need two wrenches. This is pretty common. One wrench won't do everything. 1...20 to 200 in/lbs and 2...10 to 100 or 150 ft/lbs.

You should be able to find these in good condition used on Ebay. Some chance with buying used but I have always had good luck with it. I don't like the looks of the Chinese stuff. I only buy name brands I know, which are getting harder to find. I'll try to find some and send the links in a PM.

BTW, I had trouble posting pictures once when I tried to rotate them. Don't know why but it did what you are getting. Don't tilt the camera and don't rotate the photo after and see if they stay the correct size. If that doesn't work you'll have to find a pre-teen to fix it for you. (We can tilt our computers to look at your photos)

Where is tiny imperfection? What size, what direction?
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Old 09-12-2013, 01:44 AM   #54
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The pins and the lock nuts were removed to get the swing arm off, parts #3 & 2. There is a top hat spacer, #5, with the sea, #4. Pull the spacer out with a pair of needle nose pliers. Don't grab the spacer hard enough to damage it. It comes out easily.

The seal can be popped out with a screwdriver usually. These seals and all the seals should probably be replaced. Did you order new seals?

After the seal is off the bearing will fall out. Clean and examine. Look for shadows on the inner race in the swing arm. Insert bearing clean and rotate with fingers while pressing in on bearing. If shadows or notchy feeling then the bearing will have to be replaced. The tool to pull the bearing race out of the swing arm is a blind hole puller. Usually your neighborhood Advance Auto or other parts store, NAPA, has a blind hole puller they will lend. If you have to buy one they run $70 to $100 for a cheap Chinese one.

Above is typical blind hole puller.

This is a pilot bearing puller. It will also usually pull bearing races.

BTW, the blind hole puller from China is a good tool. Much better than a lot of the other stuff they make.
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Old 09-12-2013, 08:45 AM   #55
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Why look for bearing wear. You very often can't see it anyway. Plus, there is a better and easier way to check for bearing wear: Rotate the swingarm and feel for notches. All you have to do is take the shocks off the swingarm. Those bearings rarely wear and if they are lubed regularly they don't need to be cleaned. A regular grease needle with some electrical tape wrapped around it numerous times works perfectly. I think I put the electrical tape on mine last time around ten years ago. You can always take it right off and then put some right back on when you need it.

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Old 09-12-2013, 03:12 PM   #56
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makes sense

Yes I was thinking that as I was having trouble popping the seal out.
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Old 09-12-2013, 03:32 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Natter2002 View Post
Yes I was thinking that as I was having trouble popping the seal out.
Thanks. This ol' n00b and charlatan as some inmates always call me lucks out every once in a while I'm making this stuff up.
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Old 09-12-2013, 04:30 PM   #58
disston
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Here is the torque figure for the clutch pack to the flywheel; 16 to 17 ft/lbs.

SS is working on many bikes at a time. I have only to work on one. I like to clean stuff I have taken apart, including bearings, and check them both visually and in operation. Then I can fill with clean new grease. I don't see any disadvantage to this except it might take me longer. But I'm not in a hurry.

Finding a quality torque wrench for lower settings is problematic. These things can cost big bucks. Mine is older and the type is not readily available today. There is a large selection of tools for bicycles though that we may borrow from. I have always heard good things about Park Tools but I don't currently own any. These tools are made for bicycle mechanics.



This tool can be had at the following site;http://cycleplicity.com/products/242...FcRlOgod9V4AGg

Not sure that link will work. The price on this site is $75.59 Most other places were over a hundred dollars.

You may find something that is a better deal or just cheaper to do the job or you may find this same tool for less. I think clicker torque wrenches are better. This is a clicker.
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Old 09-12-2013, 06:10 PM   #59
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Read up on installing the new rear seal.
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Old 09-12-2013, 07:05 PM   #60
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Tha

Will do, Charlie,
Will do BMWWrench. I've read a couple so far. Glad I did! My friend is a bicycle mechanic I wonder if he can source a cheaper tool or borrow me one. I dont know if he is like an auto mechanic who buys most of the tools, or it is a shop provided tool. Yes Park Tools are excellent! I have several for my winter bicycling needs!
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