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Old 09-15-2013, 05:38 PM   #46
digga1111
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what and where do you expect to see the difference with the stroker kit?
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Old 09-15-2013, 06:19 PM   #47
Big Willy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by digga1111 View Post
what and where do you expect to see the difference with the stroker kit?
a. the wallet
b. in the back pocket

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Old 09-16-2013, 12:52 AM   #48
Fogo72 OP
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Location: NSW
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Quote:
Originally Posted by digga1111 View Post
what and where do you expect to see the difference with the stroker kit?
Fucked if I know Digga,

I'm just bored and need a challenge.

Lets just see.



ITS like an experiment, interesting ayy.

Nah my theory is more lower RPM grunt, higher gearing, try to save reving it to self destruction.
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Old 09-16-2013, 12:56 AM   #49
Fogo72 OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Willy View Post
a. the wallet
b. in the back pocket

Cost to machine the crank.

$500. just play money

We can all just buy KTM's and live a boring existence.
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Old 09-16-2013, 01:31 AM   #50
Big Willy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fogo72 View Post
Cost to machine the crank.

$500. just play money

We can all just buy cars and live a boring existence.
Fixed



Love your work btw. Been following it ever since you molded a seat to your bum.
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Old 09-16-2013, 01:36 AM   #51
Doctor
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Willy View Post
Love your work btw. Been following it ever since you molded a seat to your bum.
a star was born

http://advrider.com/forums/showpost....0&postcount=13



keep up the fine work Fogo
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Old 09-16-2013, 02:09 AM   #52
KASUYAHO
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Originally Posted by Fogo72 View Post
Thanks Troy for getting us back on track.

Back to how much power I expect to get out of this thing.
There are reports worldwide of 65hp KLX650's , But there is absolutely no proof as know one can produce a Dyno sheet. So lets be realistic here.

Kermits new engine,
KLX650C electric start in an "R" model bike.
Spec, 38hp at the flywheel
Kermits specs,
STD bottom end
The electric start engine runs an alloy barrel with a cast iron sleeve pressed into it instead of the chrome bore (Nikisil)
20" thou was shaved off the barrel to raise the compression
The bore is STD 650cc
Wossner piston
STD 40 vac carbie with a 150 jet
Port and polished cylinder head and major reshaping of the combustion chamber to dome it out more which would have lowered compression a bit hence the shave on the barrel.
STD valves
STD cams
STD exhaust header
Staintune muffler with no baffle

Kermits result on the Dyno was 45hp at the back wheel. The Dyno operator said a brand new CRF450R straight off the showroom floor will pull 46 at the back wheel. So not a bad effort. Does it feel like your riding a CRF450, NO. All Kermits power is made from 1500 rpm to 4500 rpm, real deep down lugging tractor power, which is what I wanted to ADV ride around the place with a 50 kg load on his back.

So being realistic here, mods that will be done
"R" model engine, lighter rotating parts, flywheel ect compared to the "C" engine
STD bottom end, bar the 3mm stroker crank taking it to 700cc
STD 650cc Nikisil barrel, unmolested, raised with a 2mm base plate shim to get away from buying a new custom conrod and keeping the rod angle lower.
100mm STD Wossner piston with 1mm shaved off the top.
TOTAL SEAL piston rings
STD cylinder head with exhaust ports polished only
Going to purchase a new Kehin 41mm FCR carb which we have never tried on one of these engines.
1/4 bigger dia stainless custom header pipe into the Staintune muffler
Adjustable cam gear timing, Manual.
Hot cams.

So what do you guys recon we can get out of this,
I was hoping 55hp, am I myself.
I took the car pics off as requested Fogo

Do it right 60hp.
1.5hp per CI easy
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Old 09-16-2013, 04:15 AM   #53
Fogo72 OP
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I stripped down both swingarms today and took them to a mates place for bead blasting.
Not sure which one we are going to use, The "R" model swingarm is alloy and 2" inches shorter than the "C" model electric start swingarm.
I am thinking if I fit the longer swingarm it will lengthen the wheel base and give us better stability at high speed on the dirt as KLX's tend to get the death wobbles. A few runs up the Wanaaring road with both swingarms should tell us what we need to know. Yes the long swingarm will be no good in the single trail stuff, but this bike is not getting built for that.

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Old 09-16-2013, 05:07 AM   #54
michael1968
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The longer one!

Loving the build thread btw.
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Old 09-16-2013, 05:11 AM   #55
mrwocky117
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Joined: Mar 2009
Location: Brisvegas QLD Aus.
Oddometer: 158
Bead blaster

Watching this build with great interest !!
Been looking at buying one, what sort is it ( small cabinet type ? )and if you could post a photo of blasted swing arm when finished, cheers.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fogo72 View Post
I stripped down both swingarms today and took them to a mates place for bead blasting.
Not sure which one we are going to use, The "R" model swingarm is alloy and 2" inches shorter than the "C" model electric start swingarm.
I am thinking if I fit the longer swingarm it will lengthen the wheel base and give us better stability at high speed on the dirt as KLX's tend to get the death wobbles. A few runs up the Wanaaring road with both swingarms should tell us what we need to know. Yes the long swingarm will be no good in the single trail stuff, but this bike is not getting built for that.

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Old 09-16-2013, 05:18 AM   #56
Fogo72 OP
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Location: NSW
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrwocky117 View Post
Watching this build with great interest !!
Been looking at buying one, what sort is it ( small cabinet type ? )and if you could post a photo of blasted swing arm when finished, cheers.
That is the pics after the bead blasting, It is a medium sized cabinet type, bloody brilliant, just rips the paint off, doesn't like stickers or water coming through the air line from the compressor. Well worth the investment for sure.
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Old 09-16-2013, 05:33 AM   #57
rjf
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Location: Gosford, NSW, Aust. Scrambler, 640Adv, 300EXC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fogo72 View Post
no good in the single trail stuff, but this bike is not getting built for that.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fogo72 View Post
1/4 bigger dia stainless custom header pipe into the Staintune muffler
Considering the above to points, I reckon you might as well go all the way and stick a low rallye style racepipe on the beast



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Old 09-16-2013, 06:13 AM   #58
mrwocky117
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Oddometer: 158
Still following

Cheers, great build.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fogo72 View Post
That is the pics after the bead blasting, It is a medium sized cabinet type, bloody brilliant, just rips the paint off, doesn't like stickers or water coming through the air line from the compressor. Well worth the investment for sure.
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Old 09-16-2013, 07:40 AM   #59
troy safari carpente
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fogo72 View Post
I stripped down both swingarms today and took them to a mates place for bead blasting.
Not sure which one we are going to use, The "R" model swingarm is alloy and 2" inches shorter than the "C" model electric start swingarm.
I am thinking if I fit the longer swingarm it will lengthen the wheel base and give us better stability at high speed on the dirt as KLX's tend to get the death wobbles. A few runs up the Wanaaring road with both swingarms should tell us what we need to know. Yes the long swingarm will be no good in the single trail stuff, but this bike is not getting built for that.
I believe that Mick Goddard (rode the KLX 650R in both the1993 - won it - and 1994 edition Oz Safari's) looked at modifying the alloy 650R swingarm, to the same length specification as the 650C model, for exactly the reasons you mention. (straight line stability). although I don't know if he ever actually performed or ran the bike with that modification in competition?

I reckon the longer C swingarm will make for a better longdistance/high speed dirt tourer... which is what you are going for... no?
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Old 09-16-2013, 10:40 AM   #60
Earthscape
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fogo72 View Post
Fucked if I know Digga,

I'm just bored and need a challenge.

Lets just see.



ITS like an experiment, interesting ayy.

Nah my theory is more lower RPM grunt, higher gearing, try to save reving it to self destruction.
Ever consider more modest engine mods like Kermit, and then pair with custom gears to open the gear ratio spread to lower top speed RPM (money on transmission instead of engine)? I have no idea where to find someone with the tools and skills for this or the expense of custom gears, and I suspect it may not be cost-effective given the precision and treatment that the gears would need. The KLX seems to have more than enough low-end grunt to pull higher speeds at lower RPM, it would be really great with a wide-ratio 6-speed; or for that matter, even a wide ratio 5-speed.
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