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Old 12-30-2013, 09:37 AM   #1
Charleetho OP
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Final Drive Removal Help

I am trying to remove the final drive from a 05 R1200GS.

Trying to take out the pivot pin.

On the inside (wheel side) there is a bolt. My T50 torx fits loosely. A T55 doesn't fit. Tried to remove it and I was in danger of stripping the socket head. Will try heating it with a heat gun before any more tries.

On the outside, there is a (I think 26mm) nut. It is a shallow nut and very difficult to get a good grip on it with a socket. Will try removing the snap-ring to allow the socket to get a better bite.

Suggestions?

I am moving on to other projects for the moment.

TIA
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Old 12-30-2013, 10:57 AM   #2
Tiz
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Do remove the snap ring. Check the torx recess to see if any burrs or crap is preventing the T55 from seating in the bolt. I don't recall the exact size of the torx bit for that but someone else may be along shortly that does.

I did this removal about a year ago. I only recall that removing the snap ring was a PIA as I had a crappy HF snap ring plier. Otherwise it was not that hard. Good luck.


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Old 12-30-2013, 12:01 PM   #3
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It should be a 55 if it is unchanged from the factory.
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Old 12-30-2013, 01:41 PM   #4
Beezer
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others will chime in, but I think that has thread locker on it that needs a lot of heat to soften. I did one a couple years ago (only one) and seems to me I put the propane torch on it
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Old 12-30-2013, 08:42 PM   #5
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It was a T55. I had boogered up the star trying the T50. I had to use a rubber mallet to seat the T55 into the head of the bolt. Removed the circlip on the other side. The outside takes a 24mm socket.
Ran my heat gun on the bolt head for 10 minutes and ... it loosened up smooth as butter.

Thanks Guys!

Ok. I thought the drive shaft would just pull out. nope. Need to do a GSpot search.
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Old 12-30-2013, 09:46 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charleetho View Post

Ok. I thought the drive shaft would just pull out. nope. Need to do a GSpot search.
It pulls out. There is, however, a snap ring that clips it to the tranny output shaft. You need a touch of leverage (a big screwdriver works) to force the snap ring out of the slot it fits. Clip the cable tie that holds the boot to the tranny and pull it back. Apply the leverage where the DS clips to the output shaft. Use something soft to protect the case from the edge of your screwdriver.
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Old 12-30-2013, 09:46 PM   #7
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There is a clip on the top..it will just pull out..sorta..

insert a screwdriver thru the yoke and one little pop with a hammer and it comes out..

IMGP0334

If you are patient enough to get it lined back up from the bottom..you can seat with a hammer as well..no messing with the upper boot...
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Old 12-30-2013, 11:17 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beezer View Post
others will chime in, but I think that has thread locker on it that needs a lot of heat to soften. I did one a couple years ago (only one) and seems to me I put the propane torch on it
Yep, the blue stuff
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Old 12-31-2013, 07:14 AM   #9
Charleetho OP
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For you guys who have pulled and replaced the driveshaft, I have a question.

I am pulling out a driveshaft with less then 20,000 miles on it from a parts bike. My bike has 81,000 miles on it. Only have lubed the spline on the FD end when I change the FD oil.

Should I just go head and install this 20k DS into my bike? I hate fixing things that are not broke, but maybe this is preventative maintenance.

Either way I am keep a spare, boxed and ready to be shipped should I need one while traveling.
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Old 12-31-2013, 10:51 AM   #10
JimVonBaden
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charleetho View Post
For you guys who have pulled and replaced the driveshaft, I have a question.

I am pulling out a driveshaft with less then 20,000 miles on it from a parts bike. My bike has 81,000 miles on it. Only have lubed the spline on the FD end when I change the FD oil.

Should I just go head and install this 20k DS into my bike? I hate fixing things that are not broke, but maybe this is preventative maintenance.

Either way I am keep a spare, boxed and ready to be shipped should I need one while traveling.
I would check them both. Whichever has the stiffer, without binding, U-joints would go in the runner.

Jim
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