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Old 09-30-2013, 10:44 PM   #16
squawk77 OP
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It wasn't all problems

One of the more dazzling experiences on the trip so far





















I do have a few new problems to deal with now though. The zoom and find buttons don't work on my 60CSx without using my Gerber or a pen... I ran out of lithium batteries for SPOT and nobody sells lithium batteries here... I lost my Maestro card and have to rely on Visa (problem for unattended gas pumps in some countries) Maybe worst of all my iPhone is acting possessed and drying in a bag of rice... It's been raining cats and dogs which is why I'm on here now. It's easy to list the problems but I will wait until I get home to try to portray all the good.
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squawk77 screwed with this post 01-11-2014 at 07:05 AM
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Old 10-02-2013, 12:09 AM   #17
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Rice

I put the iPhone in a zip lock bag of rice overnight. It must have attracted Asians who fixed it while I slept! It was turning on and off on its own, screen flashing, buttons unresponsive, making short circuit noises etc. I could see the condensation in the camera lens and flash. I shouldn't have tried to turn it on before buying some rice for $1, but it seems to work fine now. A waiter suggested to use a hairdryer on it, I wouldn't try that!
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Old 10-08-2013, 09:40 AM   #18
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Romantische Straße

My rough plan for the first day included a sunny ride through the Black Forest and a visit to the Touratech HQ. Looking at the weather radar though.. I could avoid getting drenched by transiting more to the east. I packed up the night before so that I could leave at first light and get to the Alps for day two. Silly me however left the key on overnight... so I had to plug in the Optimate and go back to sleep. I didn't even let it fully charge, and surprisingly had no issue with it again (Nice feature on the F800GS is the headlight seems to turn off when it's not moving!) I made it to Austria by sunset, and set up camp in a secluded field. Soon I would be riding the Alps and Dolomites!

F800GS on Life Support


Heidelberg






Turning Japanese?


Neuschwanstein




Bit of this


Bit of that


Austria!
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squawk77 screwed with this post 10-16-2013 at 11:15 AM
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Old 10-11-2013, 03:45 AM   #19
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Dolomites

I navigated around mountains and lakes in Austria towards my next objective - Stelvio. Perhaps one of the more anticipated routes, and I would ride it the first time in damp cloud. I love clouds though! The Stelvio pass in cloud is daunting, such that I didn't take any pictures. You've all seen it anyways. I continued to make my way across the euphoric land known as the Dolomites. The weather was active around the peaks and when I saw a rain storm ahead I decided to stop for pizza calzone. Later I followed a dirt trail out to a rocky riverbed. I saw some tire tracks so I rode up the river for awhile and found a sandy spot to setup camp. There was lots of driftwood around so I made a small fire.



























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squawk77 screwed with this post 10-16-2013 at 11:16 AM
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Old 10-13-2013, 09:08 AM   #20
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Slovenia

En route to Slovenia I saw what looked like a great camp site. There was an old trail across crystal clear water where you could easily tuck a GS in below a soothing waterfall. I rode past a few military forts and slipped through the unmanned border. On my way to Mangart I was surprised to find there was a €5 fee… it was a very cloudy day but I went for it anyways. Wow! Glad I did.. under the clouds, long tunnel to view of the other side, rising clouds, another tunnel to a new view.. more tunnels, huge cliff beside the road with some pretty serious warning about rocks. I thought I was getting some photos of the clouds rising around the mountains, but the setting on the camera made it come out black.. After that I rode the Vršič Pass and the many cobblestone hairpins became treacherous in the rain!!











DSLR Fail




In the more touristy Triglavski national park region, I kept seeing signs “Sobe €10” next to basically any old farm house and there were also small hotels advertising to motorbikes. It would have been a nice area to stay but I wanted to get further south. I stopped in Ljubljana for supper but I didn’t really feel like staying in a city hotel or hostel. I pushed further but when I started looking for a place in the middle of nowhere, I found an amusement park/therme bustling with old people and a packed hotel with apparently no reception. Then I found a sign for a “Pension” that wasn’t on my GPS. It was basically a nice house built beside their house.. €10 room with beds, hot shower, WiFi and even a communal kitchen. I was pretty impressed, I was already finding better values than I did in Morocco.

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squawk77 screwed with this post 10-17-2013 at 11:57 AM
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Old 10-13-2013, 02:09 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by squawk77 View Post
I put the iPhone in a zip lock bag of rice overnight. It must have attracted Asians who fixed it while I slept! It was turning on and off on its own, screen flashing, buttons unresponsive, making short circuit noises etc. I could see the condensation in the camera lens and flash. I shouldn't have tried to turn it on before buying some rice for $1, but it seems to work fine now. A waiter suggested to use a hairdryer on it, I wouldn't try that!
Squawk,

All the above works fine,just never plug it in to charge like that,it fries them.

Don't ask how I know
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Old 10-13-2013, 03:34 PM   #22
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I'm very intrigued by this. Awesome photos BTW!

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Old 10-14-2013, 06:50 AM   #23
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All the above works fine,just never plug it in to charge like that,it fries them.
Good to know I think my mistake was putting it in my gor-tex pocket that got some rain in it. Couldn't believe the rice fixed it after hearing short circuit sounds.. Now if only a bag of rice would fix iOS 7
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Old 10-14-2013, 08:57 AM   #24
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I'm very intrigued by this.
Intrigued is a great word. I'm looking down at that building and the "valley of heroes" from the memorial, with the early morning mist off the river. I gather this building is part of the memorial and has (or had) paintings or something. This is a beautiful region with the primeval (undisturbed) forest, many animals, plants and lakes. Such a peaceful ecosystem and simple lifestyle that is so contradictory to its recent history of violence and war. I gather this is a WWII memorial and that massive crowds would come here every year.. it seemed to represent the start of Tito's campaign against the occupying Axis.. But that had all changed since the breakup of Yugoslavia with violence and atrocities here again. Intrigued is a good word, because information seems kind of sparse in English. Now the tourists are starting to come back. There's lots of rafting camps along the rivers. Lots of ADV riding too. It's the kind of place I would like to live, so long as it remained safe.

"This memorial complex (with a small museum) commemorates the Battle of the Sutjeska, code-name Fall Schwarz. The battle took place from 15 May to 16 June 1943. The target was to eliminate the central Yugoslav Partisan formations and capture their commander, Josip Broz Tito. The Axis rallied 127,000 land troops for the offensive, including German, Italian, NDH, Bulgarian and Greek SS-forces, as well as 300 planes. The Partisans had 18,000 men. Afther heavy fights the Partisans succeeded to break through and escape with the majority of the men. All men who could not escape, including a complete hospital, were murdered by the Axis-troops. In total, 6,391 Partisans and 2000 civilians died. Because the major part of the Partisan army could escape, together with their leader Josib Broz Tito, operation Fall Schwarz failed. The failure of the offensive marked a turning point for Yugoslavia during WWII."
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squawk77 screwed with this post 10-14-2013 at 02:58 PM
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Old 10-15-2013, 11:23 AM   #25
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Podgarić

First thing in the morning I came to my first manned border - Croatia. Check green card, stamp passport, carry on! I rode through Zagreb and stopped to check out Dvorac Brezovica, an abandoned mansion with a huge park. I thought there was a memorial around there but I didn't spot it. As I made my way towards Podgarić, I got sidetracked on some great little recreational trails in the woods. In the middle of of the forest I found an abandoned castle. I was going to say “huge”.. but to a European this would be nothing much. As a kid, finding any abandoned railway truss or mine shaft was something exciting. There were some locals there and one spoke English. They were from the restaurant on the lake in Podgarić and quite surprised to see me out there. In Podgarić, there’s a quaint town on this lake and an unusual memorial on a hill.





Dvorac Brezovica








Podgarić






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squawk77 screwed with this post 10-18-2013 at 04:55 AM
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Old 10-15-2013, 12:17 PM   #26
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Railway Ties

I bought some fuel to finish off my Croatian dinars, and headed to my next waypoint - Jasenovac. There's a lot of train tracks and a winding river that now marks the border. The “stone flower” is easy to spot in an open meadow beside the road. The museum alongside an old train was closed. A winding pathway of railway ties leads you between earth molded into huge dimples and hills and an artificial lake. It seemed like a nice place to photo but I thought the squeaky railway ties were kind of odd. As I walked back towards the train it suddenly hit me like a knee to the gut. This was a WWII concentration camp... these must be the railway ties people rode in on.





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Old 10-16-2013, 10:38 AM   #27
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Mine Fields

The 2nd manned border crossing into Bosnia-i-Herzegovina went much like the first. Green card - Stamp passport - Go! I stopped in Banja Luka for supper and then started to look for a suitable camp site... Yet the only thing I knew about this country is there are mine fields.. and I seemed to have forgotten the last room cost merely €10. I rode down a gravel track along small fields. I figure a corn field should be safe. Just as I’m about to unpack, I get that feeling I'm being watched. In the distance someone on horseback is riding leisurely toward me. I figure he will come say hello.. but he stops on the crest. I wave hello, he waves back but speaks another language.

After an awkward pause he starts chanting strange obscurities in a deep voice. Now I'm just confused by this demeanor. It's getting dark and there's still a safe distance between us so I look around and start thumbing at my GPS. I map out the nearest motels in case he chases me away. But he just stays there on the crest. I wave again, he waves back but we are mutually confused beyond that. I guess he is waiting to make sure I leave? Just then I hear the yap of a small dog and a flock of sheep. The man starts leisurely towards the trail, waves so long and chants away. I kind of laugh at myself and carry on. Wish I took his picture though.



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squawk77 screwed with this post 01-09-2014 at 04:13 AM
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Old 10-16-2013, 11:20 AM   #28
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Great Ride report Thanks !

I had to look up the memorials you pictured

very interesting
http://www.cracktwo.com/2011/04/25-a...that-look.html
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Old 10-16-2013, 01:29 PM   #29
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Nice report. Although I was expecting more photos from my country.
And btw, Croatian money is called kuna, Serbs still name theirs dinar.
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Old 10-16-2013, 01:43 PM   #30
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That's actually the random site I used to find them Wikipedia has some information as well, but not up to Wikipedia standards at all (on the English Wikipedia anyways)

It does have the Jasenovac concentration camp as well as Fall Schwarz / Battle of Sutjeska.
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