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Old 10-28-2013, 09:31 AM   #46
squawk77 OP
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Igman

Back in the city the sun is shining and people are walking around on a Friday afternoon (the 13th actually). I park outside a busy coffee shop/bar and get a seat outside. Nobody seems to speak any English so I play charades for a lemon drink and watch the world go by. I'm usually underwhelmed by cities and can't escape their gridlocks and pollution soon enough. Sarajevo is different though. It's old school and it's modern… it's big city and yet it's still small town. People ride the old street car checking their smartphones and brick houses look down on the glass sky scrapers from the hills. I'd like to stay longer, but there's so much more to see.

I ride the twisty road out to the Igman ski hill. There's this crazy-shaped abandoned hotel across from the Olympic ski jumps. It's hard to believe this stuff is about the same age as me... I parked right beside the orange podium before I realize it was the execution site. The bullet holes have been patched up and painted over. There is no memorial. It's been fixed up and used as a ski hill again. Further out there’s another ski hill that you can ride to the top of. By the time I found my way up, the sky was turning black and closing in fast from the north. I got caught in a nasty thunderstorm on the way down, but I was able to escape it to the south.



















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Old 11-01-2013, 06:40 AM   #47
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Once safe from the thunderstorm, I scan my GPS for nearby waypoints. I had marked some lakes in the mountains as possible campsites, but it was getting late for that. The GPS estimates I can make it to Tjentište by sunset. It turns out the roads from Sarajevo to Tjentište are great! I had no idea what to expect which makes it even better (plus there were no RVs clogging the roads either) Up and down some twisty little roads, through some small towns, along a rocky gorge with tunnels and I arrive at the memorial at last light. I found a nearby house/restaurant that offered camping in the backyard facing a river. I'm the only one camping this time of year but there are a few locals and tourists (French rock climbers) in the restaurant (great homestyle food and atmosphere, and even WiFi)
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Old 11-01-2013, 07:17 AM   #48
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Great ride report!

This is a great report! I really appreciate you taking the time to post as you ride. I rode through Croatia (mostly) a year ago but only had a week. I see I need to come back and spend more time. The whole area is amazing.
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Old 11-01-2013, 09:37 AM   #49
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Great RR + pics.



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Old 11-01-2013, 11:48 AM   #50
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Judging by your currency exchange rate app you're on your way to Bulgaria - prepare to be amazed by the age of some of the streetcars in Sofia.
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Old 11-02-2013, 04:12 AM   #51
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Originally Posted by Jimdamit View Post
I need to come back and spend more time. The whole area is amazing.
Me too! I'm not sure what I expected but I was amazed to say the least.
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Old 11-02-2013, 04:16 AM   #52
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Judging by your currency exchange rate app you're on your way to Bulgaria - prepare to be amazed by the age of some of the streetcars in Sofia.
What blew my mind in Sofia was the miles and miles and miles of 4 lane cobblestone streets Lots of other things as well but that was something I hadn't seen before
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Old 11-02-2013, 04:26 AM   #53
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Sutjeska

I wake to the soothing sounds of the river valley and the bright sun. The sun!! Before packing a thing I hop on the bike and rip back to the memorial to catch it with the morning mist rising from the valley below. I've been to many memorials and this is truly something else. It's a powerful sight. Then rip back to the restaurant for a great homestyle breakfast and Turkish coffee. I mentioned how fresh eggs always remind me of growing up on the farm. She tells me everything she makes is fresh from the locals, and also shows me all the spices she has drying in a back room. This food tastes nothing like the mass produced corn syrup preservative I've become accustomed to.









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Old 11-02-2013, 05:08 AM   #54
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Ontario

I pack up my tent that’s finally dry and set my sights on Montenegro. The sky is blue for the first time in weeks and everything is looking great. Mesmerized by the scenery.. I miss the turn to Montenegro. Then I notice a curious sign for “Sand Pyramids” and an interesting town where the river valleys meet. Suddenly I see a BMW GS, and to my utter amazement, an Ontario licence plate!?! We miss the green light chatting in the middle of the street (which I found out later is quite normal) and I agree to come to the café. Turns out they are going trail riding in the mountains on this beautiful Saturday afternoon.













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Old 11-02-2013, 08:14 PM   #55
Carlo Muro
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This is an awesome report

More please
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Old 11-03-2013, 01:18 AM   #56
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Excellent work and clarity of your shots is amazing! Well done and thanks for taking the time to do the report!
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Old 11-05-2013, 11:48 AM   #57
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Skakavac

After coffee he swaps the GS for a little Yamaha and we meet up with the other riders. We head to the small road up to Skakavac waterfall. There's a great view point of the falls including the highest peak in the country and a rugged gorge. This park is one of the very last old growth forests in Europe. The trail continues with views of the mountains and across a few plateaus to a private hunting camp above 1500m. They provided a great meal of fresh homegrown tomatoes, homemade bread, country cheese and ham, and water tapped from a nearby spring.







43°19′17.47″ N, 18°42′21.44″ E












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Old 11-05-2013, 11:50 AM   #58
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Excellent work and clarity of your shots is amazing! Well done and thanks for taking the time to do the report!
Thanks
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Old 11-05-2013, 12:23 PM   #59
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Well, that is stunning Greetings from Bosnian
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Old 11-06-2013, 12:33 PM   #60
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Opps

We hike up to a viewpoint of the many river valleys below. Next I plan to follow this Drina river valley into the nearby canyons in Montenegro. It’s cool to learn from them about the many edible herbs and berries growing along the trails, one that is a natural sugar. We pack up and head back before the sun will set. This is when I slip sideways and catch the shift lever on a hump of mud.. I forgot I was on street tires and tried to drag the rear brake on a grassy turn.. One of the guys quickly pulls out his tools to bend the lever back into shape.. but on the ride back I find it's not working well.





















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