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Old 09-16-2013, 05:00 PM   #16
Plaka
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Quote:
Originally Posted by disston View Post
I didn't know the plastic handled dip sticks used an O-ring? I thought that everybody used the same metal ring I have on my /6?

Anyway, the picture and part numbers I posted earlier were for a 1977 R100/7. You said your bike was a 1978 R100/7 and there is apparently no such thing. So maybe this is the right part? Or find something that works at the Dollar Store.

BTW, there's a place on Real OEM dot com to enter your vin and they will tell you what bike you have.
Haven't run a metal one in so long I forgot they existed or that I ever had one (I probably did). An o-ring is easy to find anywhere but you rarely get more than 10 years out of one. So buy 2.

Was in dollar store yesterday. Asked for diaper pins. They no got. Huh? Y'all gotta be kidding me!. MUCH discussion later I find out that they do have "safety pins". And nobody has called a diaper pin a diaper pin in a loooong time. So waddya put the diaper on the little bastids with nowadays? Nails?
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Old 09-16-2013, 05:16 PM   #17
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Tape.
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Old 09-16-2013, 05:24 PM   #18
m143
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I run o rings on the dipstick in my airheads, they don't seem to lock up like the metal seals can.
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Old 09-16-2013, 05:48 PM   #19
Plaka
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Originally Posted by SRanger331 View Post
Tape.
Makes sense. With nails, they holler when you put them on, with tape, they only holler when you pull it off.
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Old 09-16-2013, 05:55 PM   #20
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You gotta be quick, like taking off a band-aid.
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Old 09-16-2013, 06:02 PM   #21
bmwrench
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Quote:
Originally Posted by disston View Post
Anyway, the picture and part numbers I posted earlier were for a 1977 R100/7. You said your bike was a 1978 R100/7 and there is apparently no such thing. So maybe this is the right part? Or find something that works at the Dollar Store.

BTW, there's a place on Real OEM dot com to enter your vin and they will tell you what bike you have.
The R100/7 was still in production in '78. In '79 it was replaced by the R100T so BMW only had to EPA one 1000 cc engine, the big-carbed, big intake valve motor.
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Old 09-18-2013, 06:53 AM   #22
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There are dipsticks and dipsticks......as BMW changed the oilpans over the 25 year production run, they changed the length of the dipsticks to suit.

Running the wrong dipstick in your airhead might not be a good thing as it would lead to you reading the oil level wrong.

Same thing applies if you use an oil pan spacing ring......

Take a look at Anton's site for lots of useful information about oilpans and dipsticks.
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Old 09-18-2013, 12:52 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chasbmw View Post
There are dipsticks and dipsticks......as BMW changed the oilpans over the 25 year production run, they changed the length of the dipsticks to suit.

Running the wrong dipstick in your airhead might not be a good thing as it would lead to you reading the oil level wrong.

Same thing applies if you use an oil pan spacing ring......

Take a look at Anton's site for lots of useful information about oilpans and dipsticks.
I put the shallow pan from a '92 PD on my '88 RS. Meaning shorter dip stick and oil pickup, but I got the small skid plate which I was after.

Oil wise I've been using either the Valvoline or Castrol aircool motorcycle oil. It seems to be about $6 qt now, went a buck in the last few months.

For the filters, I switch those out every other oil change.

Here's the cheapest place I've found all the goodies for oil and filtration:
euromotoelectrics.com
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Old 09-18-2013, 02:13 PM   #24
Plaka
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Originally Posted by HoustonMac View Post
I put the shallow pan from a '92 PD on my '88 RS. Meaning shorter dip stick and oil pickup, but I got the small skid plate which I was after.

Oil wise I've been using either the Valvoline or Castrol aircool motorcycle oil. It seems to be about $6 qt now, went a buck in the last few months.

For the filters, I switch those out every other oil change.

Here's the cheapest place I've found all the goodies for oil and filtration:
euromotoelectrics.com
Two cautions on Euromotos cheap filters. I got one a year ago for an experiment. It was not Branded "enduralast". This may have changed. Ir was a Hiflo from a Asian mfg. that, from their website and some research, has been around a long time and knows what they are doing. Dunno what their QA is like. The filter was missing the perf paper sleeve on the outside which gives me some pause. These filter have to be able to take pressure. I never used it so can't comment on performance. The construction may have changed and actually matches the pictures.

beware buying a lot of filters unless it is a bulk buy. One thing I picked up researching the HiFlo is that filters might not keep well. I believe this, the filter paper isn't archival acid free stuff. Trying to get shelf life numbers yielded mixed results. The usual stuff on a zillion forums. Some claiming great life, some not (<2 yrs). None with data or serious credentials. What is on the net from Mfgs varies. Some seem concerned with rubber and metal components deteriorating. One thing seen across the board is that it important to keep them dry. if I were buying a lot, I would pack them under dry nitrogen. if you have the nitrogen it's simple to do with canning jars and a home food vacuum bagger. This takes care of moisture getting together with acids in the paper as well as any sort of oxidation. Then keep them in the dark (like, in the box).

I have purchased and used very old filters and run them without issue in a /5. Mahle I think. The glue on the gaskets was dried out but they didn't implode.

I have packed things in canning jars under strait high vacuum, with a drying step, with good results after a year (that is, the vacuum was maintained and the contents ectremely dry). This requires a high vacuum pump (=<50 micron vacuum).
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Old 09-18-2013, 03:02 PM   #25
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Back when the metal stick gave way to plastic

The conversation was about cooling the engine . Metal stick, with a metal washer runs so hot, you can not touch it, disapating heat . The long finned exhaust nuts went away for the shorter ones . They also improved engine cooling . About that time oil coolers became factory equiptment . Along with the aftermarket, guage, cooler dipsticks . Just some recolection from the day . We also wait til 80,000 miles before synthetic in Nikasl cylinder models . Regular dino oil, Castrol in Mexico, Valvoline here . Both work well and can be had anywhere .
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Old 09-25-2013, 03:51 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Plaka View Post
Two cautions on Euromotos cheap filters. I got one a year ago for an experiment. It was not Branded "enduralast". This may have changed. Ir was a Hiflo from a Asian mfg. that, from their website and some research, has been around a long time and knows what they are doing. Dunno what their QA is like. The filter was missing the perf paper sleeve on the outside which gives me some pause. These filter have to be able to take pressure. I never used it so can't comment on performance. The construction may have changed and actually matches the pictures.

beware buying a lot of filters unless it is a bulk buy. One thing I picked up researching the HiFlo is that filters might not keep well. I believe this, the filter paper isn't archival acid free stuff. Trying to get shelf life numbers yielded mixed results. The usual stuff on a zillion forums. Some claiming great life, some not (<2 yrs). None with data or serious credentials. What is on the net from Mfgs varies. Some seem concerned with rubber and metal components deteriorating. One thing seen across the board is that it important to keep them dry. if I were buying a lot, I would pack them under dry nitrogen. if you have the nitrogen it's simple to do with canning jars and a home food vacuum bagger. This takes care of moisture getting together with acids in the paper as well as any sort of oxidation. Then keep them in the dark (like, in the box).

I have purchased and used very old filters and run them without issue in a /5. Mahle I think. The glue on the gaskets was dried out but they didn't implode.

I have packed things in canning jars under strait high vacuum, with a drying step, with good results after a year (that is, the vacuum was maintained and the contents ectremely dry). This requires a high vacuum pump (=<50 micron vacuum).

I hear ya and was somewhat skeptical. I ordered 6 complete oil change kits, I matched up each of the 6 to a filter I had from BMW and they proved to be visually identical. I examine and cut into each used filter before discarding, the rubber on the filter has never popped off...

Filters have 6-8K miles since I change them out every other oil change unless in extremely dirty/dusty conditions.

They didn't sit around too long in regards to the paper stock used, I live on the road and I'm now on the last of the 6 filters, took a year and a half of riding slow and stopping often.

I'll definitely buy these again from my experience. Money-wise, I ended up with 6 kits that didn't cost much more than 1 kit from BMW.

Anyone else gave these a shot?
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Old 09-26-2013, 05:16 AM   #27
Stan_R80/7
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I like euromoto electrics and would buy any and all my electrical airhead components from them. But for oil filters, I am picky. For me, only Mahle filters will do. I buy mine from Beemer Boneyard: http://www.beemerboneyard.com/mahleox355pk.html or Motobins (who also sell the Mahle).
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Old 09-26-2013, 07:40 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HoustonMac View Post

Anyone else gave these a shot?


I have had a filter collapse and it was a Hiflo but I'm almost certain that was down to a combination of bad installation in the form of excess compression by me and unavoidable circumstances that caused me to over rev with cold thick oil. The temperature was -6 Deg C and the bike had been stood at that temperature all day. This was many years ago and I haven't had one of any make fail since. We live and learn, I use thinner oil now.

It's very easy to denounce everything but the genuine BMW supplied filters but don't assume it's only the cheap filters that have ever collapsed. I remember owners complaining sometime in the early 80's that dealer supplied filters had collapsed and there has even been the odd instance of the two piece bendy type collapsing.

When you remove a used filter take a look at the pleats. Are they dead straight or slightly kinked. If they are kinked by excess compression on installation I believe that will predispose them to an easier collapse. So the length of the filter is one quality control issue to keep an eye on. I've seen them a couple of mm too long and wonder if that is one of the common issues with some brands.
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Old 09-26-2013, 08:56 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by HoustonMac View Post
Anyone else gave these a shot?
I pulled out a hiflo last month with ~1yr & ~4k on it (replace with a Mahle) and the bike has been used in sub-zero temps on several occasions. I wouldn't say it had collapsed but the paper had certainly deformed a fair bit. I'll see if I left it in my drain tray and take a pic.
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Old 09-26-2013, 08:59 AM   #30
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I have used the HiFlo 161 filter for several years now. No problems. They are the longer, no hinge, filter. Paid less than $4.00 each I think it was.

Now have a dozen on the shelf.
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