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Old 01-11-2014, 05:22 PM   #226
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Laugh Another interesting title

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Originally Posted by canadian chris View Post
Peruvian govt ought to remake this classic PSA, except with an Incan...

I tend to agree with your views on innate morality. Paul Theroux encountered a similar problem in the south pacific and had a great deal to say about it in his book "The Happy Isles of Oceania".
Riding through Ecuador, we saw a great deal of sensitization campaigns, as well as signage promoting the "Patria", its waterways, unique flora and fauna, water conservation, impact of inadequate waste disposal, environmental pollution, etc... etc... not so in Peru
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Old 01-12-2014, 02:50 AM   #227
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Ah man, I'm always late to these cool threads. Great pic's guy's. you all look like your having way too much fun. On your way home stop in seattle, i'll buy you a beer. Eric.
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Old 01-12-2014, 04:19 AM   #228
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Talking Not too late

Glad you are tagging along Eric, still lots of riding and reporting to go.We will be shipping the bike from Buenos Aires to Seattle for the trip home, I just might take you up on that offer.
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Old 01-12-2014, 05:57 PM   #229
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Cool2 Desert thirst

558 km of Peruvian desert sure makes you thirsty








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Old 01-14-2014, 08:14 AM   #230
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V@lentino View Post
558 km of Peruvian desert sure makes you thirsty



Hi Jackie and Valentino!

How are you doing and Where are you? You wouldn't hapen to be near Cusco are you? We did some resting/getting bike parts/seeing Machu Picchu-days here and are leaving tomorrow for the Bolivian border near lake Titicaca.

Greetings,
Edwin and MIrjam
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Old 01-14-2014, 11:35 AM   #231
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Wicked Hot on your trail

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Originally Posted by De Buurman View Post
Hi Jackie and Valentino!

How are you doing and Where are you? You wouldn't hapen to be near Cusco are you? We did some resting/getting bike parts/seeing Machu Picchu-days here and are leaving tomorrow for the Bolivian border near lake Titicaca.

Greetings,
Edwin and MIrjam
Hi guys,

Great to hear from you. You are not that far ahead, we are leaving from Lima tomorrow for a short ride to Pisco and then we start heading East via Ayacucho and Abancay for Cusco on the 18th, we will be camping at this spot for 2 days. Then also head for the Bolivian border at Lake Titicaca. Not sure yet but I think we will likely bypass Machu Pichu.

What way did you choose to go up there?

Hope that parts for your bike(s) did not translate into too much trouble...

Miss you guys


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Old 01-17-2014, 07:18 PM   #232
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Eek Andes part 1

Encounter of a different kind, 34F at 4800 metres, back to 99F just above sea level. I will tell you all about it when I have a better connection and I get some rest. We are in Nazca, heading back through the Andes tomorrow for Abancay...

There was a lot of that





But also some of this






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Old 01-19-2014, 06:27 AM   #233
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You don't know how much I appreciate your ride report. It makes my life so much easier being a couple weeks behind you.

All I had to do this morning was check to see where you stayed in Ipiales. Gran Hotel. Check the internet. 15 bucks for a single room. Dang, that's reasonable. It saves me mucho tiempo.

Gracias mis amigos,
Tio Juan
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Old 01-19-2014, 08:22 AM   #234
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Laugh Glad to know you got the Sherpa back

Hey JD,

Its good to know that both your bike and shoulder are up for the task again. Check out these next few posts, if or when you decide on the Peruvian Andes be prepared for nasty weather but amazing scenery, I will post an updated hotel/hostal list soon.
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Old 01-19-2014, 08:49 AM   #235
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Originally Posted by V@lentino View Post
Hey JD,

Its good to know that both your bike and shoulder are up for the task again. Check out these next few posts, if or when you decide on the Peruvian Andes be prepared for nasty weather but amazing scenery, I will post an updated hotel/hostal list soon.
Hey, I'm from Nebraska. Nasty weather will make me feel right at home. Look forward to your future pics and stories. Keep up the good work!

Su Amigo,
Juan de Mal Clima
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Old 01-19-2014, 09:31 AM   #236
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Eh? Andes part 1 or "the spit"

Andes part 1







After having ridden close to 1200 km on the Panamerican, through garbage littered Peruvian desert, with stops at Chiclayo, Trujillo, Lima, and finally Pisco we were both ready for a change of scenery, and looking forward to see the Andes, and whatever else Peru has to offer.

None of us escape progress



We left Pisco on Jan 15 at around 0815 heading for Ayacucho, the capital of the Ayacucho region in the south-central Andes. From there we would ride south to Abancay, and one more day to Cuzco. A total of just under 900km in 3 days; or so we thought…



We diligently checked the weather forecast since we figured that at altitude just under 5000 metres it would be nasty. We use weathersparkOne of the best site we found so far in terms of forecast reliability. It called for light drizzle and some intermittent rain at high altitude. Nothing we haven’t seen before or rode through in the past.





Lots and lots of critters on the road







Of the human kind too
















And a few where it is safer for us




Breathtakingly beautiful scenery











We climb rapidly through the arid mountains, leaving the dusty desert behind, the scenery was just amazing, hard to describe in words that’s why we have lots of pics. We had soon reached about 2500 metres and settle into a fast cruise through the twisties, up and down the passes, crossing small bridges over the river nestled deep in the valley, and then would do it all over again through the next pass. There were also amazing forever roads through canyons and lama pastures











The sun was shinning, the blue sky only dotted by just a few cumulus.










Until it started to cloud up



















As we reach the high plateau at about 3800 metres, it had gotten cold and the temp on the bike showed 48F. We stopped after the toll in the little village of Rubichaca (good luck if you can find it on the map). We had a “Caldo de cordero”, a simple lamb soup with potatoes and quinoa, and we were soon on our way again little north of east for Ayacucho.






“Watch the weather said our host, it changes swiftly around here, and we are having a nasty start to the winter; “ten cuidado”.”

I looked at Jackie; “did he just say winter?

So we pressed on, and it started to rain, than it poured and the temp dropped to 38F, by the time we reached 4100, maybe 20 km from the little pueblo the sky had turn to a scary dark gray, almost black, it was cold and wet, not fun, but we carried on… not for long.

When lighting started to strike, I got a slightly worried, and tried to remember the little I knew about lighting; were we in danger of getting hit? Apart for the rare truck or bus that would pass us, at 4215 metres, high in Andes plateau, we were the only things on the road. But we are grounded right? On rubber, right? Chance of getting struck by lighting 1/14000000 right? So I started counting the seconds between the strikes and the thunder; 1 Mississippi, 2 Mississippi, 3 Mississippi, 4 Mississippi, 5 Mississippi, and it struck again, we pressed on and I counted again, echoing through the Sena’s speaker was Jackie’s breath raising and lowering with each turn of the wheels, this was not good. 4445 metres; 1 Mississippi, 2 Mississippi, and it struck again, the black sky lit up and I could taste the electricity in my mouth, not good… Then it started to hail, small little pellets at first, the size of BBs, I slowed down, 1 Mississippi, 2 Mississippi, 3 Mississippi, 4 Mississippi, 5 Mississippi, 6 Mississippi… the storm was moving east, same way we were going, but faster than us. Our speed has slowed to a crawl, at 35F and 4555 the hail was coming down hard, the pellets had now grown to the size of plump chickpeas, they were covering the road at an alarming pace, and we already had been showered a couple of times by incoming lorries, time to stop.

We took refuge against the storm, behind an improvised shelter; a stonewall adjacent a house built of field rocks, and mud bricks. There, stoic in orange overhauls, with one of those typical Peruvian beanies covering his ears was Sandro, he was cold but not wet, his China bike neatly resting on the wall, waiting for the storm to pass.

“Adonde vas”, he asked.
“Quisas nos vamos por Ayacucho”, we answered.
“Muy peligrosso, hay mucha nieve y tambien derumbres por la via, la carretera sigue subiendo más al este, mas de 4800 metros, y la temperatura bajará por debajo de cero.”

That was all we needed to turn back! We waited another hour for the storm to pass, then as soon as a bus came and made a couple of tracks in what was now a few inches of the white stuff, we shivered our way back to Rubichanca.















The restaurant, where we had the “caldo” earlier, had a sign posted for “hospedaje” hopefully we could spend the night there if not we would pitch the tent.
The dueño, smiling gave us a quizzical look. “Yes we have camas, in the back of the restaurant. Put the bike in here we will move the tables.”















We slept fitfully and it took us quite a while to get warm in the the wet and cold bunker- like adobe we had for the night. The sleeping bags were just what the doctor ordered.
The next morning we would ride back the 411km to the coast and follow the southern route to Nazca.


We just had been spit out by the Peruvian Andes, but we had not said our last words yet…
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The motorcycle chronicles of Jackie & Valentino
The Southern Episode

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Old 01-19-2014, 10:39 AM   #237
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Updated Hostal-Hotel-B&B list

The last list I posted was when we were in Salvador, you can find it here at post #102. This is the list inclusive of where we are now in Abancay, Peru. As before the KM indicated reflect what was done that day to get to the place

11/13
Leon, Nic
Lazybones hostal
315 km

11/15
Managua, Nic
Friend
87 km

11/16
Granada, Nic
GM Granada hostal boutique
49km

11/18
Playa Del coco, Cr
Cabines coco azul
213km

11/25
Playa Corrillo, Cr
Casa Colibri
120.km

11/27
Fortuna,Cr
Roca Negra
233km

11/28
Chinanguoa, Pa
Seriramis
370 km

11/30
Playa Lagartero, Pa
Cabana Hibiscus garden
438 km

11/30
Panama City, Pa
Hilton
275km

12/01
Panama City, Pa
Panama house B&B
2km

12/10
Stahratte
Carti, Pa to Cartagena, Co
160 km

12/12
Cartagena, Co
Villa Colonial,
3km

13/12
Curcumani, Co
Sol y mar
435 km

27/12
Medellin, Co
Tiger Paw hostal
Apt Viamonte
Ram Hostal
478 km

30/12
Pereira, Co
Hotel Torreon
310

01/01
Popayan,Co
MS Heirera
320

02/01
Ipiales, Co
Gran hotel
347

05/01
Quito, Ec
Blue house hostal
264km

06/01
Riobamba, Ec
Hotel Glamour
201km

08/01
Cuenca, Ec
Alternative Hostal
272km

09/01
Macara, Ec
Azaroses hotel
387 km


10/01
Chiclayo, Pe
Embajador hotel
369 km

12/01
Trujillo, Pe
Hotel gran Le Mans
206 km

15/01
Lima, Pe
Hostal 151
558 km

Pisco, Pe
Villa Manuela
245 km

16/01
Rubichaca, Pe
Hospedaje Vaquerito in Andes
216 km

17/01
Nazca, Pe
Doña ho
411 km

18/01
Abancay, Pe
Hotel imperial
455 km
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Old 01-19-2014, 02:11 PM   #238
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snow? hmm I'm leaving Lima in two days, might have to reconsider the route. Looking forward to the latest. Buen viaje!
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Old 01-19-2014, 04:23 PM   #239
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Wink Nazca option

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snow? hmm I'm leaving Lima in two days, might have to reconsider the route. Looking forward to the latest. Buen viaje!
Dan my suggestion is to make it to Nazca, maybe go to el Canyon del Pato, and from there hit Abancay. It's a long day at 425 km, and it gets cold and wet at the top, but for the last 150 km you ride in the valley between 1700 and 2000 metres and the temp in the late afternoon still climbed to 65F. It took us 8.5 hours to make it to Abancay with a short half hour stop for lunch. You can't go fast in the mountains plus there are lots, and lots of animals on the road. After the last pass when down in the valley the final 150 km can be done quicker. Although we did see some private gas "shops" along the way, there is a gas station in Puquio, and several in the valley.

The vistas were the best of the trip so far, and smooth tarmac all the way. I will post more later.

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The motorcycle chronicles of Jackie & Valentino
The Southern Episode

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Old 01-19-2014, 06:04 PM   #240
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The road to Nazca

Back down from the Andes to the coast.




I wish I could say it was cleaner and somewhat less littered but I have to note one more time how much deficient waste management is in populated areas of Peru.



When we left the little mountain pueblo of Rubichaca high above 4000 metres it was 43 F. By the time we were darting to Nazca at 235 metres, the mercury had risen to 99F.

The pics tell the story










The lower we got the warmer it became, nice...





Time to open the throttle











Lines in the sand









Smiles and miles with Jackie & Valentino

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