ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Riding > Ride reports
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 02-08-2014, 06:27 PM   #271
V@lentino OP
Inspektor
 
V@lentino's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2008
Location: Vankouver
Oddometer: 815
Wink Oups!

Looks like I forgot to tell you guys about Sucre. Longest ride of the trip so far, 720 km of Bolivian roads from La Paz to Sucre, sometimes great, sometimes not so great...

Then the desert, Bolivian Altiplanos with the last of the Lamas, volcanoes, and the never ending mesmerizing Chilean desert, 300 km of hard pack dirt, washboard, and sand at 4000 metres, always fun 2 up with a loaded GSA


Meanwhile in the Atacama desert


This one is for you Steve, hope you make it here some day on your own terms.



Will revert with lots more, but internet connection seems to be going spotty again. Tomorrow we ride the Andelean Cordillera from La Serena, Chile to San José de Jachal Argentina.





__________________
FEAR ===> False Expectation About Reality. GSA08
Work is just the time you have to spend between rides.

The motorcycle chronicles of Jackie & Valentino
The Southern Episode
V@lentino is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-10-2014, 07:10 PM   #272
V@lentino OP
Inspektor
 
V@lentino's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2008
Location: Vankouver
Oddometer: 815
Cool2 Chilean Andes a snkeak preview

We are in Mendoza, reunited with friends.






Yesterday we rode about 250 km to cross the Chilean-Argentinean Andes. The first 15 km were soft-loose gravel, than it changed to corrugated gravel and sand with mostly washboard and compact dirt, some stones, fresh traces of falling rocks and landslides, and just a few sandy bit. By the time we reached El Punto del Agua Negro it was 4750 metres, and we got stopped behind a small car convoy were one with a broken axle was getting rope-towed by a pick up.





Both the altitude and the magnitude downed on us, some were beaten but not defeated.





Valentino was in the zone...

The view was breathtaking, all the while the altitude took our breath away. It was hard work for both pilots, navigating the soft stuff, 2up with loaded pigs.







We took hundreds of pics, here are just a few. It was awesome, but by the time we reached the Argentinean border back at 1900 metres we were beat.



The price to pay for what we saw, just like everything else; "tout se paye" everything has a price.







It was tough, it was worth it.

That's why we call it adventure...





Many more pics to come....
__________________
FEAR ===> False Expectation About Reality. GSA08
Work is just the time you have to spend between rides.

The motorcycle chronicles of Jackie & Valentino
The Southern Episode

V@lentino screwed with this post 02-10-2014 at 07:33 PM
V@lentino is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2014, 06:58 AM   #273
canadian chris
Gnarly Adventurer
 
canadian chris's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2013
Location: Victoria, British Columbia
Oddometer: 161
Quote:
Originally Posted by V@lentino View Post

It was tough, it was worth it.

That's why we call it adventure...
well said!!
__________________
__________
my trip reports:
day trip to Bamfield
circling through the Canadian Rockies
2up thru Mexico
canadian chris is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2014, 07:09 AM   #274
poolman
Gnarly Poolside Adv.
 
poolman's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2010
Location: Darnestown, MD
Oddometer: 712



Spectacular!

.
__________________
~~~~~~
poolman

Sacred Valley of the Incas
Costa Rica Solo
poolman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2014, 07:28 PM   #275
V@lentino OP
Inspektor
 
V@lentino's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2008
Location: Vankouver
Oddometer: 815
Cool2 What happened before the Andes

We have been riding in Chile since we entered at Ollague from Bolivia. It has been the most spectacular, exciting and demanding riding we have done during this amazing journey.

Since our story is now anachronistic, I can afford to bounce you back and forth from Bolivia to Chile. At one point I will revert because there is still much I want to share about Colombia, Bolivia, and Chile itself. In the mean time I figure that if I upload lots of pics when I have a good internet connection we all win.

So first there was Sucre; Just as Popayan in Colombia is dubbed the white city, the Bolivian capital bares the same sobriquet. The ride from Potosi to Uyuni was next, with a visit to the Salar. Then from Uyuni through the high desert towards Ollague, the volcanoes, and the Chilean border;


That was Superbowl Sunday, and although not a big fan, Denver use to be my favourite team in the Elway & Atwater days. So I could not believe my luck when we sat down for dinner at the Hospedaje in Ollague, just a few short kilometres from the Chilean border, and Fox en Español was completing its broadcasting of the pre-game show.

Ollague is not much BTW, but I suppose that with Direct TV, nobody is impervious to a bit of Americana, and after a tough day of riding in the desert, the Super Bowl seemed like a could idea.


From Ollague we then made it to San Pedro de Atacama, for a bit of star gazing, and we got amazing views of the Southern Cross, funny how a trivial everyday scene for most can be such a treat for a few others.

After San Pedro it was Caldera, where we join the Pacific Ocean once, and in some places, looking Southwest might just have been the rugged coast of Oregon, and Northern California. One more stop that took us down to La Serena.

From there we took the infamous "Carretera de las Estrellas" with glaciers crowning at 6500 metres and a high pass just under 5000 metres. The first few kilometres were through the wineries of Western Chile until hitting the high desert and volcanic area, climbing quickly on great pavement to customs, than a few hundred kilometres of challenging sinuous and unpaved road in no-mans-land between the Chile and Argentina.

Here comes some pics of that last ride and I will make my way back as we move forward South when both time, and internet allow it.

The pics are posted in chronological order; hang on and come for a ride through the Andes with us.


------------WOW------------










































































































































__________________
FEAR ===> False Expectation About Reality. GSA08
Work is just the time you have to spend between rides.

The motorcycle chronicles of Jackie & Valentino
The Southern Episode

V@lentino screwed with this post 02-12-2014 at 09:00 AM
V@lentino is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2014, 07:34 PM   #276
V@lentino OP
Inspektor
 
V@lentino's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2008
Location: Vankouver
Oddometer: 815
Laugh The last of the wet and cold

The ride from La Paz to Sucre would prove to be the longest of the trip so far, 720 km. Mostly cool and wet, but a necessary evil to get from Bolivia to Chile via Uyuni and the Salars.


















Bolivia was the country we liked the least. Albeit very scenic, and with enough memories from Lago Titiqaqa to last a lifetime, we did not particularly enjoy the rest of the country. Often the differences lie with the people that you meet and interact with.

We had several rude encounters with various Bolivianos. In La Paz, a lady categorically refused to sell us a few bananas, and actually shooed us away with the back of her hand. Since the beginning of trip we interact with people in the most personable way. Listening and looking before speaking, showing respect and deference, with generally a healthy sense of self-awareness, and as little expectations as possible.

The great majority of the interactions we've had with people were quite unmemorable, ordinary, even on several occasions bordering unpleasant. This was especially notable when interacting with indigenous people.

Maybe who and what we represented, as well as the way we carried ourselves just turned them of. But we did not feel welcomed, or that we should really be there anyways.

I know that the history of Bolivia is dotted with injustice, economic and political woes dating back to the fall of the Inca empire, and arrival of the conquistadors, that it had many skirmishes and conflicts with its neighbours with the country rarely having the upper hand, and eventually ending up land locked. Nonetheless, we were nice and pleasant to all the people we met, and apart from a few friendly cab drivers in La Paz, and a lady working in the hotel in Sucre, people were generally aloof, unpleasant and ill-tempered.

Sometimes you got to move forward...

I am left with the sentiment that travelling through Bolivia may appeal to a certain genre of visitors/tourisms mostly centred on outdoor activities. Ridding a motorbike across the vast altiplanos, and deserts was definitely a highlight of the trip, and we have memorable images that attest to its grandeur, I am however unsure if I would return.

Very few people were courteous, the drivers were plain mad, the food was very ordinary, and the cities and villages not particularly enjoyable or welcoming to strangers. I thought Uyuni was just odd, the Salt flats attract, according to Wikipedia approximately 60 000, visitors a year, this year the Dakar was also a highlight for the town; where does the money go, I wonder?

The city is anything but attractive, there seems to be a general atmosphere of carelessness. Things are expensive, the food is unimaginative, and we observed how patrons were treated and the staff generally did not seem to care.

I just imagine that the money ends up under the mattress, and that nobody really seem to care about were they live, how they live, and the image it projects of who they are.

That whole thing with the gas was also completely bogus; as I said prior, I can understand and have no problem with a tax imposed on foreigners on gas that may be subsidized or tied to a currency that is unstable, but it is a real pain to be either refused service altogether or having to haggle so that the local may put the money in his pocket instead of issuing you with a proper receipt for your fuel purchase.

The most we paid was 8.95 Bol per ltr, with the least being same as the locals at 3.95 Bol per ltr, we also paid 4.95, 5.95, and 6.95.

Whatever Bolivia...


Sucre













The friendliest Bolivian we met









Just the three of us






















Red on white





Guess who's coming for dinner?








__________________
FEAR ===> False Expectation About Reality. GSA08
Work is just the time you have to spend between rides.

The motorcycle chronicles of Jackie & Valentino
The Southern Episode

V@lentino screwed with this post 02-12-2014 at 07:40 PM
V@lentino is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2014, 07:50 PM   #277
V@lentino OP
Inspektor
 
V@lentino's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2008
Location: Vankouver
Oddometer: 815
Talking Getting to Uyuni








357 km of glorious and smooth tarmac took us from Sucre to Uyuni.

Are you in?


Watch for the critters
















































__________________
FEAR ===> False Expectation About Reality. GSA08
Work is just the time you have to spend between rides.

The motorcycle chronicles of Jackie & Valentino
The Southern Episode
V@lentino is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2014, 07:16 AM   #278
V@lentino OP
Inspektor
 
V@lentino's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2008
Location: Vankouver
Oddometer: 815
Wink Uyuni

Uyuni is one of those both sought after and obligatory stops when travelling through Bolivia. A little bit like Coco's corner if you are heading south through Baja. Just a fun place to hang out in the middle of nowhere.






Fooling around at the old train cemetery



























Valentino is such a stud








And Jackie such a gnarly adventurer


















Fun times in Bolivia...
__________________
FEAR ===> False Expectation About Reality. GSA08
Work is just the time you have to spend between rides.

The motorcycle chronicles of Jackie & Valentino
The Southern Episode
V@lentino is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2014, 07:44 AM   #279
V@lentino OP
Inspektor
 
V@lentino's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2008
Location: Vankouver
Oddometer: 815
Thumb Past the salt please
















We had both read and heard that the Salar was flooded, this time of the year is not the best to ride over. We took the piste from Uyuni, and about 10 km or so we were at the entry of the inundated salt plain.














The water was not more than a few inches deep, and the ground was fairly compact. Although riding the brine did sound like fun, in the end I erred on the side of caution, the salty slosh is just not good for the bike. I walked about a couple of KM to get good views and we settled on a few salty pics.




































In the best of circumstances I would have liked to camp somewhere in the salty desert, but just taking it all in, and acknowledging the fact that we've made it so far on two wheels was sweet enough.






__________________
FEAR ===> False Expectation About Reality. GSA08
Work is just the time you have to spend between rides.

The motorcycle chronicles of Jackie & Valentino
The Southern Episode

V@lentino screwed with this post 02-14-2014 at 07:44 PM
V@lentino is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-14-2014, 04:36 AM   #280
advFord
Gnarly Adventurer
 
advFord's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2012
Location: Orange County, CA
Oddometer: 435
Ah I forgot to stop by the train cemetery! doh. completely forgot.
__________________
Those who dare, risk defeat. Those who don't, ensure it.
Places Beyond: California to TDF over 8 months Ride Report
Places Beyond Website
Facebook
Instagram @PlacesBeyond My Spot
advFord is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-14-2014, 04:59 AM   #281
OldPete
Be aware
 
OldPete's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Los Alamitos, CA
Oddometer: 3,975
Wow! Great pics all around.

It can be tough when the weary traveler is treated rudely, even here in The States.
The recent History of mining and oil industries in Bolivia has had a real impact on its peoples/environment.
The hi-jack of Evo Morales' plane to Austria was a stinging slap to the Bolivian face.
Hopefully the people will warm up as things improve in Bolivia, the poorest Country in S.A.

Always looking forward to the next update.
Best Regards to you both
OldPete is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 02-14-2014, 07:10 AM   #282
ElReyDelSofa
Desubicado
 
ElReyDelSofa's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Salt Lake, Cuenca y La Union Ecuador
Oddometer: 122
Those faces say it all...

Quote:
Originally Posted by V@lentino View Post
[CENTER]
In the best of circumstances I would have liked to camp somewhere in the salty desert, but just taking it all in, and acknowledging the fact that we've made it so far on two wheels was sweet enough.






Suerte,

Martín
__________________
Todo es posible nada es seguro

'06 F650GS Dakar
ElReyDelSofa is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-14-2014, 07:52 AM   #283
Blader54
Studly Adventurer
 
Joined: Jul 2012
Oddometer: 975
Lovely update, guys. Can't get over the reds and yellows in the Andes. Stunning shots! Wishing you the best as you wend your way ever-southerly.
Blader54 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-14-2014, 09:18 AM   #284
TUCKERS
the famous james
 
TUCKERS's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2005
Location: Villa Maria Sanitarium, Claremont, CA.
Oddometer: 11,428
Well done guys. Following along quietly..................
__________________
James and Colleen Tucker.
Aut viam inveniam aut faciam
DMV work/insurance/registration/titles/address use/room rental/motorbike&vehicle buying/travelers help/problems solved
TUCKERS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-16-2014, 05:41 AM   #285
V@lentino OP
Inspektor
 
V@lentino's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2008
Location: Vankouver
Oddometer: 815
Wink Ride to Ollague

Quote:
Originally Posted by advFord View Post
Ah I forgot to stop by the train cemetery! doh. completely forgot.
Dan how did you like the ride to Ollague and Calama? I will post pics about that stretch when I have a chance.

keep on keeping on.
__________________
FEAR ===> False Expectation About Reality. GSA08
Work is just the time you have to spend between rides.

The motorcycle chronicles of Jackie & Valentino
The Southern Episode
V@lentino is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 06:37 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014