ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Old's Cool > Airheads
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 11-06-2013, 08:37 PM   #1
hardwaregrrl OP
You talkin' to me?
 
hardwaregrrl's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2006
Location: Atlanta
Oddometer: 6,681
Dirty bike problems

Yes, I am a filthy pig and roll around in the dirt. But I wash my mount afterwards. Here's my problem/question. I am somehow fucking up clutch cables. I've made a cable cover out of an innertube to keep the filth out of the ferrule but my clutch gets to be a real bitch when I get in the filth. Similar situation with the front brake. There is a bit of "sticky" at the begining of the brake squeeze, the brake operates normal after you bust the "filth" seal. any suggestions as to protecting my cable/line investment. I really do clean the bike up after I've been in the dirt but It doesn't seem to keep it from happening. Or is this just how it is on an airhead dirtbike
hardwaregrrl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-06-2013, 08:58 PM   #2
villageidiot
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Apr 2010
Location: Orange County, CA
Oddometer: 1,224
when i rode flat track and speedway, i would DOUSE the bikes in wd40 to keep shit from sticking to it too gnarly like. also, they make the little rubber mud flaps for the pivots of levers. i dunno, just spitballin
villageidiot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-07-2013, 05:22 AM   #3
hardwaregrrl OP
You talkin' to me?
 
hardwaregrrl's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2006
Location: Atlanta
Oddometer: 6,681
Quote:
Originally Posted by villageidiot View Post
when i rode flat track and speedway, i would DOUSE the bikes in wd40 to keep shit from sticking to it too gnarly like. also, they make the little rubber mud flaps for the pivots of levers. i dunno, just spitballin
yeah, I've been using armor all on the bits, but I had forgotten how well WD 40 works. Almost like a teflon. I just can't believe I'm the only one going through a clutch cable a year. Maybe I'm just a bad owner. Thx for playing.
hardwaregrrl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-07-2013, 05:48 AM   #4
manic mechanic
Gnarly Adventurer
 
manic mechanic's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2011
Location: up nort' somewheres
Oddometer: 145
Might I suggest occasionally removing the cables, then using a cable lube tool and flush the crud out backwards? As in towards the lever end. With some of the bikes I see, I'll put the cable end over a piece of paper towel so I can see when the "solvent" comes clear, then repeat the process in the other direction. Then cycle the cable in the sheath a bit to ensure there are no other issues before reinstallation. Really only takes a few minutes per cable. Then you can install the rubber boots over the lever pivots while installing the cables.
__________________
'76 R90/6, '07 K1200GT
Rounder #6
MOA Ambassador, Biergarten co-chair
RA WI Regional Rep, rally camping chair
manic mechanic is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-07-2013, 06:03 AM   #5
hardwaregrrl OP
You talkin' to me?
 
hardwaregrrl's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2006
Location: Atlanta
Oddometer: 6,681
Quote:
Originally Posted by manic mechanic View Post
Might I suggest occasionally removing the cables, then using a cable lube tool and flush the crud out backwards? As in towards the lever end. With some of the bikes I see, I'll put the cable end over a piece of paper towel so I can see when the "solvent" comes clear, then repeat the process in the other direction. Then cycle the cable in the sheath a bit to ensure there are no other issues before reinstallation. Really only takes a few minutes per cable. Then you can install the rubber boots over the lever pivots while installing the cables.
That's makes BMW stock cables worse....they have a liner that cable lube does not work with. I learned that the hard way many years ago.
hardwaregrrl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-07-2013, 06:40 AM   #6
manic mechanic
Gnarly Adventurer
 
manic mechanic's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2011
Location: up nort' somewheres
Oddometer: 145
Yeah, I remember that now. We don't get many Beemers in the shop, but a lot of MX'ers and dual-sports. I should look in the catalogs to see if there are any aftermarket cables without the liners for BMW's.
__________________
'76 R90/6, '07 K1200GT
Rounder #6
MOA Ambassador, Biergarten co-chair
RA WI Regional Rep, rally camping chair
manic mechanic is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-07-2013, 06:53 AM   #7
Kai Ju
Beastly Adventurer
 
Kai Ju's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2009
Location: So Cal
Oddometer: 1,660
Quote:
Originally Posted by hardwaregrrl View Post
That's makes BMW stock cables worse....they have a liner that cable lube does not work with. I learned that the hard way many years ago.
I was able to get my sticking clutch cable back to normal using the pressure cable luber and Tri-Flo.
I rinsed it with contact cleaner until nothing but clean came out and then chased it with the Tri-Flo.
I've also had good luck with a product called Teflon Silicone Lubricant made by Dupont.
They both contain Teflon, the same material as the cable liner.
The key is to get all the crud out first, otherwise you're just making an abrasive paste when you inject the lube.
Kai Ju is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-07-2013, 07:28 AM   #8
Pokie
Just plain Pokie.
 
Pokie's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2013
Location: Fort Collins, CO
Oddometer: 694
If it's an airhead, they are supposed to have a felt in the ferrule area that never seems to get replaced. Even when the bikes were new, most shops didn't even know what the felt was for and just threw them away while setting up the bikes. The intention of this felt is to keep filth out of the cable and it also soaks up a bit of oil to keep everything lubricated. Also make sure the rubber bellows on the bottom of both your clutch cable and front brake cable is in good shape. I usually push back the bellows and insert a drop of oil and push it back on. On cables that have lost their felt and bellows, I will remove them and force feed oil down them whenever they start to get a bit rough or sticky.

BMW cable or not, a simple drop of oil will do wonders. Stay away from those "special" oils and solvents, just use good old motor oil. Any oil that is left in the new oil containers after an oil change is available for use in a small pump oiler. Just set out a jar on a corner of your work bench and leave the "empty" oil container to drip into the jar over night. In no time you have more than enough oil to fill your little pump oiler.

Never be afraid to oil anything that moves on your bike,.... cables, sidestand, center stand, switches,.......
Pokie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-07-2013, 09:01 AM   #9
hardwaregrrl OP
You talkin' to me?
 
hardwaregrrl's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2006
Location: Atlanta
Oddometer: 6,681
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pokie View Post
If it's an airhead, they are supposed to have a felt in the ferrule area that never seems to get replaced. Even when the bikes were new, most shops didn't even know what the felt was for and just threw them away while setting up the bikes. The intention of this felt is to keep filth out of the cable and it also soaks up a bit of oil to keep everything lubricated. Also make sure the rubber bellows on the bottom of both your clutch cable and front brake cable is in good shape. I usually push back the bellows and insert a drop of oil and push it back on. On cables that have lost their felt and bellows, I will remove them and force feed oil down them whenever they start to get a bit rough or sticky.

BMW cable or not, a simple drop of oil will do wonders. Stay away from those "special" oils and solvents, just use good old motor oil. Any oil that is left in the new oil containers after an oil change is available for use in a small pump oiler. Just set out a jar on a corner of your work bench and leave the "empty" oil container to drip into the jar over night. In no time you have more than enough oil to fill your little pump oiler.

Never be afraid to oil anything that moves on your bike,.... cables, sidestand, center stand, switches,.......
So, I've never seen a felt ring on any of my airheads.....where does it go exactly? Have a photo....assuming it
s #7 ??

 photo B0000653_zps349a2505.png
hardwaregrrl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-07-2013, 10:32 AM   #10
Stagehand
+/- V TDSPP
 
Stagehand's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2004
Location: Shawangunks
Oddometer: 24,919
I've seen the felt. It looks like a a flat ended suppository with a slot down the side so you can fit it on a cable.

I too go through roughly a clutch cable a year.. slightly less these days as I seem tobe riding the PD less and less... It always breaks at the handlebar ferrule.
__________________
Unintentional psychokinesis.
Stagehand is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 11-07-2013, 11:31 AM   #11
orangebear
Beastly Adventurer
 
orangebear's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2010
Location: dumfrie scotland
Oddometer: 1,210
My r100gs clutch cable keeped braking as the lever had to much up and down movment but i fitted a new plastic spacer in to the lever were the bolt goes and to has helped a lot.
__________________
bmw r100gs i ride it all year round
bmw r100/7 x2 sold
road legal stomp pitbike sold
Klr650c the 1 I should not of wasted my money on
Honda xl125rc powered by a cg125 block fun wee bike
orangebear is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-07-2013, 11:50 AM   #12
Pokie
Just plain Pokie.
 
Pokie's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2013
Location: Fort Collins, CO
Oddometer: 694
I don't know if thats it or not. It's a felt piece that has a slit down the side and a small hole through the middle. If that's the part, it should be # 32 72 1 231 610. It actually fits in the adjuster, between the cable ferrule and the control body. When fitting one, it goes into the adjuster from the cable ferrule end not from the lever end. It's just intended to keep the filth out of the cable.
Pokie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-07-2013, 11:51 AM   #13
hardwaregrrl OP
You talkin' to me?
 
hardwaregrrl's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2006
Location: Atlanta
Oddometer: 6,681
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pokie View Post
I don't know if thats it or not. It's a felt piece that has a slit down the side and a small hole through the middle. If that's the part, it should be # 32 72 1 231 610. It actually fits in the adjuster, between the cable ferrule and the control body. When fitting one, it goes into the adjuster from the cable ferrule end not from the lever end. It's just intended to keep the filth out of the cable.
Cool....I have some felt here I'll try and make one. Thanks!
hardwaregrrl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-07-2013, 01:39 PM   #14
Screaming Chicken
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Screaming Chicken's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2007
Location: Netherlands
Oddometer: 355
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand View Post
It always breaks at the handlebar ferrule.
That's because the clutch lever is stupid. :-)

The slot where you pass the cable through is straight in line with and straight down from the cable if you pull the lever. So if the cable slides down a bit, you end up with a pair of wire cutters.



And the cable will slide down a bit if you lubricate that wossname, which you have to do to avoid metal fatigue breakages from the twisting motion of the lever.

I fixed this by modifying the lever, drilling a hole and adding a tiny little nail to stop things sliding down:



Seems to work well enough, haven't had a clutch cable break in 3 years.
__________________
'92 R100GSPD
Two Bings to rule them all, Two Bings to ride them,
Two Bings to bring it all and in the twisties grind them.
In the land of Bavaria, where the boxers ride...
(Gandalf the oil-stained)
Screaming Chicken is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-07-2013, 03:11 PM   #15
hardwaregrrl OP
You talkin' to me?
 
hardwaregrrl's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2006
Location: Atlanta
Oddometer: 6,681
Hmm.....interesting. I've only broken one in the 7 years of airhead ownership and yes, it was at the ferrule. I hope your clutch lever didn't hear you call it "stupid"......because according to you.....IT BITES.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Screaming Chicken View Post
That's because the clutch lever is stupid. :-)

The slot where you pass the cable through is straight in line with and straight down from the cable if you pull the lever. So if the cable slides down a bit, you end up with a pair of wire cutters.



And the cable will slide down a bit if you lubricate that wossname, which you have to do to avoid metal fatigue breakages from the twisting motion of the lever.

I fixed this by modifying the lever, drilling a hole and adding a tiny little nail to stop things sliding down:



Seems to work well enough, haven't had a clutch cable break in 3 years.
hardwaregrrl is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 12:03 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014