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Old 10-04-2013, 10:07 AM   #31
Rockwell OP
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Originally Posted by charlie264 View Post
Have you checked the clutch assembly and basket?
Haven't checked that yet, but the mechanic said to check that next time we stop to work on the bike. He mentioned the clutch basket specifically. Should it be OK to ride until we have a chance to stop and spend some real time to work on the motorcycle? I am thinking about doing that when we get to Portugal unless it's critical that it be checked right away.
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Old 10-04-2013, 10:16 AM   #32
bikyto
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Quote:
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Haven't checked that yet, but the mechanic said to check that next time we stop to work on the bike. He mentioned the clutch basket specifically. Should it be OK to ride until we have a chance to stop and spend some real time to work on the motorcycle? I am thinking about doing that when we get to Portugal unless it's critical that it be checked right away.
You can pull the cover in 5 min and you will see the basket fingers and all the plates pretty clearly. No oil loss.
It's not critical but possibly could flag someothing that could lead to more damage if left unchecked.
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Old 10-04-2013, 10:24 AM   #33
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Is there a gasket, and, if so, will I need to order get a new one before I can close it up to ensure no leaks?
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Old 10-04-2013, 10:29 AM   #34
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Is there a gasket, and, if so, will I need to order get a new one before I can close it up to ensure no leaks?
There is a rubber gasket inside a groove on the cover side.
I've removed mine 50 times when I was doing some testing for rekluse. I have a spare one, but I have never used it.

There is no oil pressure on that side. Just a bit of oil wetting the plates. Put the bike on the side stand. And pull the cover. I don't even touch the rear brake lever. If you haven't ran the engine for a bit, it will be mostly dry. When I was testing and doing runs in between pulling the cover, I would put a 2x4 under the rear wheel and put it on the side stand to give it a bit more angle. That way, you won't even leak the smallest oil drop.
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Old 10-04-2013, 10:35 AM   #35
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I'll have to look up the torque values and probably wait until Monday so that I can borrow the shop mechanic's torque wrench, unless it's fairly safe to just tighten it down and monitor for leaks until I can get it properly torqued. I guess it should be fine since, as you said, there's no oil pressure on that side.
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Old 10-04-2013, 10:38 AM   #36
bikyto
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Originally Posted by Rockwell View Post
I'll have to look up the torque values and probably wait until Monday so that I can borrow the shop mechanic's torque wrench, unless it's fairly safe to just tighten it down and monitor for leaks until I can get it properly torqued. I guess it should be fine since, as you said, there's no oil pressure on that side.
Hand tight, IMO no need for a torque wrench. I screw the bolts on until I feel resistance and then go 1/4 turn. It won't leak.

I've ran the bike with half the bolts (wouldn't recommend it for long runs) so that I wouldn't have to take it all off every time and for every run. No oil.
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Old 10-04-2013, 10:50 AM   #37
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If anything looks suspicious on the plate side, you can remove the pressure plate and pull the plate stacks very easily.

The pressure plate has six bolts, loosen, remove, pull the six springs (all the same) then remove the pressure plate. Behind it, you'll find the fiber plates and steel plates. Just remember the order in which the plates go as the first plate is difference. The plates have fingers and interlock with the basket. There is a mark on the basket edge, one of the plate fingers will be lined up with the first plate. You can't miss it. Just pay attention to where the plate finger is in relation to the basket and then the remaining of the plates (as they are usually all stacked up together except the first plate that is offset by one notch and lines up with the mark on the basket).

It's really easy, just pay attention to the details.

This way, you will see all the basket fingers and all the plates.

The most critical part, once youhave put the plates back/the pressure plate/springs, is to make sure your pressure plate bolts are tightened. I also hand tight them but if you're not comfortable you might want to use a torque wrench. Loose bolts could ruin your clutch and too tight bolts could break the receptacle in which they bolt on. Hand tight and many thousands of miles and haven't had issues though.
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bikyto screwed with this post 10-04-2013 at 11:05 AM
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Old 10-04-2013, 01:40 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rockwell View Post
I'll have to look up the torque values and probably wait until Monday so that I can borrow the shop mechanic's torque wrench, unless it's fairly safe to just tighten it down and monitor for leaks until I can get it properly torqued. I guess it should be fine since, as you said, there's no oil pressure on that side.
These are torqued 10Nm, you can fairly feel when it is set, yet I still recomend always using a torque wrench. If possible do so, but for this specific cover isnt vital, just make sure you apply fairly the same strength for all.

While laying the bike on its left side inspect the oil screen.

Does she rattle more often?

Usually the jerkiness on these 1st gen 990's is caused by the FI which had some not so smooth maps which combined with a somehow sensitive TPS caused that behavior. My first 990 (same as yours) wasnt snatchy or jerky at small tb openings, yet suddenly it started to develop those symptoms along with high idle etc.. Had some tough time setting up the TPS but eventually it smoothed out. Maybe you could verify if the TPS values (with tuneecu) are within standard range (0,58v warm and 0,63v cold). Don't touch the TPS unless utterly necessary!
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Old 10-04-2013, 01:51 PM   #39
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You can pull your dry sump screens and clean them more often without changin g the oil just to reduce the contamination.. At least the main one on the bottom of the motor.. It will catch a lot..

Dave
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Old 10-04-2013, 01:52 PM   #40
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Haven't checked that yet, but the mechanic said to check that next time we stop to work on the bike. He mentioned the clutch basket specifically. Should it be OK to ride until we have a chance to stop and spend some real time to work on the motorcycle? I am thinking about doing that when we get to Portugal unless it's critical that it be checked right away.
Its the clutch original or has someone fitted new plates?
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Old 10-04-2013, 02:37 PM   #41
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Hey Rockwell, by the time you guys finish this trip you should
be quite the experienced KTM wrench

Safe travels

Twist it, Max
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Old 10-04-2013, 03:06 PM   #42
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It is possible you have a slightly bent selector fork be quietly shaven off, another thing to put in the mix.
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Old 10-05-2013, 06:12 AM   #43
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Originally Posted by bikyto View Post
It's really easy, just pay attention to the details.

...but if you're not comfortable you might want to use a torque wrench
That gives me a bit of confidence to open up that area and work on it. I am always a little intimidated when going into areas that I never worked on before. I've sort of been putting off opening up the clutch and transmission area, which might be the cause of some of my problems.

I'm still a novice so I prefer to use a torque wrench if I have one, especially with critical parts. I don't quite have the mechanic's touch yet to do it by hand.

Quote:
Originally Posted by charlie264 View Post
Its the clutch original or has someone fitted new plates?
These area the original plates. I haven't done much off-road riding, so I've been putting off checking that area, likely for much too long. According to the service schedule, I should have done this three time by now.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Two Moto Kiwis View Post
It is possible you have a slightly bent selector fork be quietly shaven off, another thing to put in the mix.
I'm not exactly sure what the selector forks do and how they function. The transmission is still a bit of a black box for me, and a bit intimidating. I need to learn though.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gustavo.Ramos View Post
While laying the bike on its left side inspect the oil screen.

Does she rattle more often?

Usually the jerkiness on these 1st gen 990's is caused by the FI which had some not so smooth maps which combined with a somehow sensitive TPS caused that behavior. My first 990 (same as yours) wasnt snatchy or jerky at small tb openings, yet suddenly it started to develop those symptoms along with high idle etc.. Had some tough time setting up the TPS but eventually it smoothed out. Maybe you could verify if the TPS values (with tuneecu) are within standard range (0,58v warm and 0,63v cold). Don't touch the TPS unless utterly necessary!
We inspected the oil screen the last two oil changes (yesterday and last week in Vienna). They were fairly clean.

Maybe I am paranoid, but both Lukas and the KTM mechanic I worked with yesterday (also named Lukas) both said the engine sounds normal.

I do have a TuneECU cable with me. I have checked the TPS feedback values before. I will check them again to see what they are.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MAXVERT View Post
Hey Rockwell, by the time you guys finish this trip you should
be quite the experienced KTM wrench

Safe travels
I still feel like an amateur, but I have learned a lot, thanks in big to Advrider and the guys on this site. This is my first motorcycle and I was scared to even remove the front fairing when I first bought the bike 4 years ago.
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Old 10-05-2013, 06:21 AM   #44
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Here are the photos of the oil drained during the change yesterday. They aren't great images, so they may not show good detail. I was allowed to work inside the shop at the KTM dealership and I felt I was taking up a lot of the mechanic's time and space, so I was in a bit of a rush.







There did seem to be some copper in the oil, but the KTM mechanic inspected it more closely and he described the metal shaving as being more silver in colour. He suggested looking into the clutch basket, which I should have done long ago.
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Old 10-05-2013, 06:45 AM   #45
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how many miles do you have on the bike, you probably mentioned it before but....

on my bike, i found all kind of things in the oil during the first 10k miles then nothing
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