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Old 09-28-2013, 02:32 PM   #1
Sabre170 OP
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Bolt removal.

Hey all,

So, on the right side of the engine, the airbox is held on with an 8mm nut that threads onto an 8mm stud. This stud goes forward into the eng block area. I want to remove the stud, AND salvage the 8mm (1.25pitch) threads inside.

(Airbox eliminator kit.....right now, left side has hex bolt. The right side has this stud/nut combo......looking to use hex heads on both sides).

I'm stumped as it seems very stuck in there.

?????
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Old 09-28-2013, 02:35 PM   #2
Warin
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This would be your '78 R100/7?
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Old 09-28-2013, 02:43 PM   #3
ME 109
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Use a second nut locked up tightly against the first nut, and undo with the first (inner) nut. Some penetrating oil or some heat or both may be required.
I thought two bolts were standard?
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Old 09-28-2013, 02:45 PM   #4
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Yes, my 78 100/7.....sorry for leaving that out.

Maybe two bolts are standard.....if that is the case, PO decided to change that setup. I'll give the 2nut approach a try.
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Old 09-28-2013, 03:51 PM   #5
disston
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No, I think a stud is standard on the right.
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Old 09-28-2013, 04:07 PM   #6
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^Yes, it is, the nut on the stud holds the air box on. I don't think you could get a bolt in there.
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Old 09-28-2013, 04:08 PM   #7
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No luck with the double bold....in fact made things a bit worse.....started to strip some threads with all the torque.

I didn't try any heat though. Any suggestions where to heat it up at? Heat the engine block in the vicinity of the bolt???
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Old 09-28-2013, 04:18 PM   #8
disston
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Why do you want to remove this part?

Give up. Airheads do not want to change.
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Old 09-28-2013, 04:26 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by disston View Post
Why do you want to remove this part?

Give up. Airheads do not want to change.
On my airbox eliminator plate, it currently has the hex head in the left with a nut in the right. Call me OCD, but I want to have hex head bolts on both sides.
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Old 09-28-2013, 04:30 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by disston View Post
No, I think a stud is standard on the right.
If there's threads sticking out and no bolt head on the other side, it's a stud.

Look for a bulge in the gearbox on the outside. it's is screwed into that. Apply heat there..
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Old 09-28-2013, 04:38 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sabre170 View Post
On my airbox eliminator plate, it currently has the hex head in the left with a nut in the right. Call me OCD, but I want to have hex head bolts on both sides.
but one will be screwed into the case and the other goes through to a nut. people are going to notice. Even worse, you're going to know. You wake up in the middle of the night staring into the darkness. All you'll see is that the two sides are not the same. you'll start to sweat. it becomes more difficult to breath...



Anybdy ever mention that one cylinder is farther forward than the other? Or to put it another way, one is farther back. it doesn't have to be like that. Are the cylinders on a radial engine offset in a big spiral? No, they all lie in a plane. This is a two cylinder radial engine. It's not you with the problem. The designers of this thing were just perverse. Like with the through bolt and the stud.


And they saw you coming.
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Old 09-28-2013, 05:12 PM   #12
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My standard procedure for steel "anything" screwed into alloy "anything", is to give it a good, square, smack with a big hammer, before trying to turn anything.

The reason for this seemingly abusive approach is break the corrosion that develops between the steel and the alloy that stops the screw coming out if left alone.
I have had to do this repeatedly in the last week working on a new to me XR650R motard, all the into alloy screws needed this treatment, with no failures. Button head socket headed cap screws, much loved by Mr Honda, received this smack via an allen key socket.

I learnt this the hard way, while servicing Hydrovan air compressors, with big steel screw plugs with shallow hex heads that would round off if the above treatment wasn't religiously applied.

So give the end of the stud a good wup with a precision adjusting tool, and try again.

The con rods of a radial aero engine are all in line, as there is one master rod, that has all the other rods attached to it.
The Boxer engine is a two throw engine or it wouldn't be a boxer, which means both pistons go out together, no similarity to a radial in any way that matters.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Plaka View Post
but one will be screwed into the case and the other goes through to a nut. people are going to notice. Even worse, you're going to know. You wake up in the middle of the night staring into the darkness. All you'll see is that the two sides are not the same. you'll start to sweat. it becomes more difficult to breath...



Anybdy ever mention that one cylinder is farther forward than the other? Or to put it another way, one is farther back. it doesn't have to be like that. Are the cylinders on a radial engine offset in a big spiral? No, they all lie in a plane. This is a two cylinder radial engine. It's not you with the problem. The designers of this thing were just perverse. Like with the through bolt and the stud.


And they saw you coming.
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Old 09-28-2013, 05:15 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Plaka View Post
Anybdy ever mention that one cylinder is farther forward than the other?.
Mention it all the time. Notice it every time in start my bike. I say to myself, "Look at that. The right cylinder is behind the left."

I think the radial airplane engines are different than our bikes in many ways. For one thing they always have an odd number of cylinders. (I forget the reason or explanation of this but have for years been trying to find it. If a single row or bank of cylinders is used the number of cylinders is odd. The P-51 had an even number of cylinders because it had two rows and they could be run independently, I've heard)

We have a lot of pilots and plane freaks here maybe somebody will explain.
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Old 09-28-2013, 06:04 PM   #14
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"So give the end of the stud a good wup with a precision adjusting tool..."

This is correctly described as a "Bashometer".

That upper stud was not meant to be removed. It is nearly an interference fit thanks to being tapped undersized. You will need to heat the engine case near the stud, and it would help to have an assistant to lean on a wrench or vice grips while you heat it.
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Old 09-28-2013, 06:20 PM   #15
Plaka
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Quote:
Originally Posted by disston View Post
Mention it all the time. Notice it every time in start my bike. I say to myself, "Look at that. The right cylinder is behind the left."

I think the radial airplane engines are different than our bikes in many ways. For one thing they always have an odd number of cylinders. (I forget the reason or explanation of this but have for years been trying to find it. If a single row or bank of cylinders is used the number of cylinders is odd. The P-51 had an even number of cylinders because it had two rows and they could be run independently, I've heard)

We have a lot of pilots and plane freaks here maybe somebody will explain.
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