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Old 10-02-2013, 06:34 AM   #16
ciedema
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Oh the Pamirs - such great memories. Especially of Tildakhans. One our best nights. Really looking forward to the rest of this RR.
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Old 10-03-2013, 02:39 AM   #17
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Descending into the Bartang.


Looking down the valley.


The July melt turning small streams into torrents.

8 hours from when I set out at karakul I am finally in the valley and still haven't seen any hint of civilization, not even one Shepard! The riding becomes challenging when i come to streams gushing down from the mountains I had just came through. At first glimpse they don't look like much being only 2-3m wide, but are knee deep and are flowing fast. With the road being washed away in most instances, I often rode down the alluvial fan as the stream then spread out and became shallower and less forceful but still crossing in a downward diagonal direction so I wouldn't feel the complete force of the water up against the bike. The freezing murky water hid many large rocks that I would come up against and have to get off and rock the bike backwards against the flow to be able to get the front wheel around. I continued down the valley another hour with wet feet and now with the sun setting I could really feel the temperature drop. Now I was looking for a suitable campsite.
I wasn't just looking for a clear space off the road, but one that wasn't sandy and one with a large enough boulder that I could lean the Ural up against for the night. I was pretty stuffed by the time I had found a spot with 2 out of the 3 that I was after.


After a long day riding its good to finally get camp sorted.






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Old 10-03-2013, 03:11 AM   #18
rednax
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nice ! Subscribed
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Old 10-04-2013, 03:42 AM   #19
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In Ghudara Village.

Just 10km south of camp lay Ghudara Village, riding through, many arms went up waving for me to come over and stop, So with it being breakfast time that's exactly what I did. The Pamiri houses are simple, open plan rock homes with a mud rendering. From the outside they don't look like much, often painted in plain white or left untouched. Inside though, the raised platform for eating and sleeping around 5 pillars is covered in colorful rugs along with the walls. The roof with exposed beams steps up 5 times in the center (5 pillars of Islam) to the skylight that floods the room with natural light. I'm treated to never ending bread, yoghurt and tea and countless questions while they all huddle around watching me devour their food bite by bite.


Still More Descending.

Continuing on traffic increased from seeing villages hearding their goats to even a tourist land cruiser with the occupants faces all plastered to the inside windows as we pass each other. The hard pack road improves modestly through the day, crossing long sandy sections to find slippery cobble stones that lead up to a steep section prove challenging but the Ural bounces up the road without missing a beat. Further down into the next village of no more than a dozen homes I am asked in for tea and apricots. While my bike is leaning up against a tree in the front yard, their tethered donkey tries to violate my bike until the owner runs over and is yelling and laughing at the same time for it to settle down. Its a bit of laugh and I ride on with a clean seat to Savnob.


River Cobbles makes for tough going.


Savnob.



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Old 10-04-2013, 04:04 AM   #20
nduro.kz
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Hi, I've rad your report and it seems very interesting. Can I translate it in Russian and post it on my website nduro.kz?
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Old 10-04-2013, 04:11 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by nduro.kz View Post
Hi, I've rad your report and it seems very interesting. Can I translate it in Russian and post it on my website nduro.kz?
Yes please bratan

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Old 10-04-2013, 07:41 AM   #22
selkins
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Excellent. Keep it coming, please!
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Old 10-04-2013, 07:49 AM   #23
BoDii88
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just registered to this forum to keep tracking your tour progress ... damn i love your report man !!! cant wait for the updates !
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Old 10-04-2013, 02:28 PM   #24
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Fantastic! More please.

(Hope you don't mind me adding one of your phrases to my signature line - happy to nuke it if you do)
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Old 10-04-2013, 08:35 PM   #25
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Mosilton my host in Savnob.

Go to any village in The Bartang and ask where a guesthouse is and they will simply say, "why every house is a guesthouse". A really open and friendly reception welcomed me into Savnob, Nice and comfortable homestay with good food put on. Mosilton my host was a real character. Just after I had settled in she brought around 3 young ladies to meet me and said "just pick one!, this one good for cooking, this one good for washing..." After my blind dates left she then went on to give me grief for not bringing her any moisturizer as she hand cuts the families wheat with a sickle, pulls up the potatoes and hand washes wool for making Pamiri socks to then sell on to markets in Khorog.
Savnob village was nice to be able to just walk around and listen to the wind blow through the wheat watching people go about their daily chores in the village with the afternoon sun on your face. The locals that saw me wandering would invite me over to their gardens and give me handfuls of apricots, Bread & tea no matter how much I tried to resist. From my experience this kind of hospitality is on par with northern Pakistan and Iran in which I believe has to be some of the best in the world.


In Savnob.

The next morning I did some maintenance checks, Haven't burned or leaked too much oil since Karakul, I'm impressed - Fuel was running low, so I dumped 15l into the tank then Climbed out of Savnob past the weather station here I'm met with the view of Peak Communism but now known as Ismoil Somoni Peak, Tajikistan's highest mountain at 7495m.

Looking back the way we came, from here on its all down hill.

The peak is shrouded in cloud so I press on dropping in elevation throughout the day, The road improves also, making the riding much more enjoyable but its tough riding in such a scenic place to actually keep the concentration on the road and whats coming up it. As I get down to river level and in a few instances below river level, I'm wondering if it the road is going to be closed the further downstream I go, The worst section being high enough to lick the underside of the carbs.


Down to river level.


Down stream river levels almost stopping me.


Leaving the Ural behind and heading across and up to Jizev valley for an over nighter.


I do like mountains but after being in the Pamirs I have to say I prefer to ride up them than hike.


Jizev's first village.


and the 2nd.


Spring water Vs Snow Melt.


The Simple Life.

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Old 10-05-2013, 01:37 AM   #26
RoverMike
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Great photos of a beautiful place. Oh, nearly forgot - love the bike!
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Old 10-05-2013, 02:54 AM   #27
RoninMoto
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Amazing pictures!

I did the Pamir this summer. I love seeing the picture because it seems every person that posts sees things I missed. But some things are the same



Keep up the good work. I'm definitely subscribing to this one.
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Old 10-05-2013, 04:01 AM   #28
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Thanks Guys for joining the ride!
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Old 10-05-2013, 05:35 AM   #29
sprouty115
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I'm in. Too good to pass up!
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Old 10-05-2013, 06:12 AM   #30
fredgreen
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Welcome to ADV! Cool pics and RR. What a great life you lead! I've got a 2012 GearUp, but I don't think it will ever see this area of the world.
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