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Old 10-04-2013, 06:02 PM   #1
cook OP
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Gas Tank (1150 GS)

I would like to input on the following.

on my 1150, the paint is blistered inside the tank where the fuel pump mounts. I have scrapped all the blisters to where the paint seems to be well adhered to the metal. me thinks if I do not seal the edge of the paint to the metal the gas will continue to seep between the 2 & cause further flaking of paint inside the gas tank.

is there anything I can use, fiberglass ?, polyurethane ? something to paint over the 2 to "reseal" the paint to the metal
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Old 10-04-2013, 06:09 PM   #2
JetSpeed
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I have used a product called Kreem to repair gas tanks, it works well.
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Old 10-04-2013, 06:38 PM   #3
tjt94
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I have an '01 and the entire tank liner released. I talked with a number of very well respected BMW techs and all advised that I just clean out the tank and run it without a liner. I did that 25K ago and all is fine. The liner is made from a material that has a finite service life and that is somewhere around 15 years. My bike has a black tank and sits outside (not garaged) in extremely hot conditions (120 degrees) so I am guessing that my liner expired sooner as a result.
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Old 10-05-2013, 05:28 AM   #4
cook OP
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I don't mind NOT doing anything. Just did not want to worry abt what was still there to continue to peel. If there was some way to "seal" it back up so to speak to keep it from continuing to come loose at this point
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Old 10-05-2013, 06:40 AM   #5
tjt94
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It sounds like yours is flaking a bit. Mine did not do any flaking. It dropped off in sheets. Scrub it a hard as you can, especially if you are going to put some coating on it, because the liner may release under your selected coating and the result will be the same. I don't think you should do a coating on it since, as I previously stated, the liner has a service life and will release at some point regardless of what is on top of it.
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Old 10-05-2013, 04:36 PM   #6
vintagerider
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Its not difficult to remove the pump to clean the tank every so often. I suppose that you can pressure wash to remove the lining. I would never Kreem or re-line the tank because that's asking for fuel problems. If the tank is ever cleaned with water then it must be thoroughly air dried or rinsed with 90% ethanol. For long term storage its best to drain the fuel, remove pump, wash with sudsy water to remove gas vapors and store indoors where air can circulate. This way it will never rust from condensate. That is what all vintage bike owners do.
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Old 10-05-2013, 04:56 PM   #7
jshuck
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tank flake

I would also switch to an external filter that is easily changed.
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Old 10-05-2013, 05:30 PM   #8
vintagerider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jshuck View Post
I would also switch to an external filter that is easily changed.
I run one and use to recommend a particular set-up but I don't recommend this for the average rider any more. The ancient IBMW Rider post on using an external non-fuel injected filter is and always has been WRONG.

Issues: fire hazard; fuel hose too close to throttle wheel and cyl fins; must use 10 micron f.i. filter; heat soaking to filter causes lean burn.

An external filter can be run but most riders do not have access to the the parts required or skills to do it correctly. They usually end up with plugged injectors at a minimum (even if they don't know it). It is challenging to route the hose correctly without causing excessive bends. The Wix 33323 is a great filter if you can find one. It can be securely mounted on the 1100 to the abs line mount screw (per IBMW post) using the included clamp. Special abrasion resistant fuel line is then run to the rear then up the frame then forward. A provision must be made with a U to feed back in to the BMW black nylon fuel distributor. All that and you still have potential heat soaking. I've run the same filter on the 1150 fitted inside the front frame hollow. Much shorter lines, no U required but the risk for leaking on the headers or lines improperly routed is simply too great.

OP should probably go with a thorough cleaning and stick with the oem filter as over-priced and prone to plugging as they are.
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Old 10-05-2013, 06:24 PM   #9
cook OP
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Consensus is,, remove as much junk as possible & go w.it. I don't like removing the fuel pump cause I broke a stud once on a 1200 clc & had to find a new tank

I can probably get a filter mounted externally, my next biggest prob is getting the new TPS set properly then balancing the TB's.. I can generally ride year round here in lower Alabama, so I won't need to worry too much about condensate.

Thanks for the input
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Old 10-05-2013, 09:36 PM   #10
vintagerider
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One can not effectively clean this tank without pulling the pump plate. No point in mounting an external filter if you do not remove the internal plugged up one. If one limits torque on the tank studs to what can be delivered by holding a nut driver between thumb and index finger then no stud will sheer off.

Every oilhead that I've ever seen that hasn't yet had it's fuel pump out has issues with the fuel prep and delivery system which are impacting performance and reliability.

The biggest hurdle for most is draining the tank. Get a BMW electrical convenience socket and make up a pigtail with pins on the end. Plug the 12 bat + pin in to the heavy green wire on the tank plug and the 12v neg pin to the heavy brown wire. Breeze to pump down the tank. Not worth burning a valve from too lean or popping oil seals from back fire or simply not having the rated hp at your disposal.
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Old 10-05-2013, 09:49 PM   #11
redwing51
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Had this happen on an R1100GS (its the same tank as 1150GS) I opened it up as much as possible and removed all loose coating. I let it dry out and removed more loose coating by hand and by blowing compressed air into tank. I had pieces of coating hanging on fuel float and affecting fuel gauge reading. I replaced fuel filter and screen, buttoned it back up and went on my way. No problems after that. I wouldn't worry about it.
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