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Old 10-11-2013, 06:37 PM   #31
Bayner
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Vapor lock is not nearly as big a problem on a 40 psi system as compared to a carb running at 4. I doubt it'll prove to be problematic.
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Old 10-11-2013, 08:15 PM   #32
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Vapor lock is not nearly as big a problem on a 40 psi system as compared to a carb running at 4. I doubt it'll prove to be problematic.
Perhaps not, but there is an awful lot of heat coming right off the engine at that spot. Hopefully I am wrong.
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Old 10-13-2013, 04:15 AM   #33
Snowy
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about 300kms on it, no issue.

The fuel line was just as close without the filter.

Being EFI it circulates fuel through the fuel rail, so temperature rise will be regulated by the volume of the system.

It may well heat it up on a longer trip. But with airflow...dunno...we'll see.

I've had plenty of cars with filters in horrible hot locations that have never played up.
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Old 10-16-2013, 03:57 PM   #34
JRWooden
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Testing resistance to flow?

Ok ... so fellow ADVRider McCardigan was kind enough to send me his suspected clogged filter..................

Thinking about it, it would be nice to measure "resistance to flow" somehow before doing an autopsy ...

I was thinking about maybe attaching a big funnel to the inlet of the fliter and pouring (say) 1 qt of gasoline into the filter and timing how long it took to get thru the filter ... then try the same trick with a new filter of similar characteristics....

any other thoughts/ideas?
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Old 10-16-2013, 05:16 PM   #35
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Could you try to pull a vaccum on it using an altercated brake bleeder?

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Old 10-17-2013, 02:38 AM   #36
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Snowy, I'm pretty sure this system does NOT "circulate" the fuel- there's neither pressure regulator valve nor return line on the rail, rather the pump is controlled by feedback from a pressure sensor.

On a flow test JRW, I'd be thinking about utilising the bikes own bits to test- say 10secs open flow with the pump controller overridden

or

what does the pump do at key-on? I've never checked this so maybe someone has the info. Is it run for a specific time to purely test the pump or does it run up to a preset pressure? Either way you could have a quick test of flow vs time and that's a good indication of filter restriction.
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Old 10-17-2013, 09:40 AM   #37
MKorn
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Header wrap

If heat did become an issue, i am willing to bet that some header heat wrap tape would keep the heat off the filter.
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Old 10-18-2013, 11:46 AM   #38
JRWooden
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Snowy, I'm pretty sure this system does NOT "circulate" the fuel- there's neither pressure regulator valve nor return line on the rail, rather the pump is controlled by feedback from a pressure sensor.

On a flow test JRW, I'd be thinking about utilising the bikes own bits to test- say 10secs open flow with the pump controller overridden

or

what does the pump do at key-on? I've never checked this so maybe someone has the info. Is it run for a specific time to purely test the pump or does it run up to a preset pressure? Either way you could have a quick test of flow vs time and that's a good indication of filter restriction.
dpm ... yeah... I like that idea on testing the filter ... a shame I don't have a spare pump ... I probably SHOULD have one anyway right?

And yes.... Joel commented some while back that there is no return line back to the tank the system controls pressure by modulating the fuel pump controller ...

I think the "Key on" setup just runs the pump long enough to pressurize the rail and then shuts off ............
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Old 10-18-2013, 03:31 PM   #39
Girthy Knobkers
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Used the same filter as the 1150GS. Did this before my Alaska trip. Made it, played around, rode back. Still no problems...

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Old 10-18-2013, 05:42 PM   #40
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Did you remove the In -Tank filter before installing the new inline unit ?
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Old 10-18-2013, 07:46 PM   #41
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dpm ... yeah... I like that idea on testing the filter ... a shame I don't have a spare pump ... I probably SHOULD have one anyway right?
Uh, I got 2 spare gas tanks complete now......one spare for each bike. Maybe I should build a filter flushing rig.

I still think the 1150 filters are the way to go if only an adapter was made for the output end so they could remain in the tank. I've changed plenty of those types just on prevention. Our gas doesn't seem to wreck them or I'd be more inspired to look into it further.
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Old 10-19-2013, 02:22 AM   #42
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I'll give the Mahle KL18 a try. Seems to have the right dimensions and is used on Mercedes G series. This only can work . Will be my project during spring :o).
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Old 10-19-2013, 02:45 PM   #43
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I'll give the Mahle KL18 a try. Seems to have the right dimensions and is used on Mercedes G series. This only can work . Will be my project during spring :o).
I will probably buy one of ebay... i need a spare, and I can also use it as a test rig and transfer pump till mine craps out...

Loutre: Doesn't the KL18 have male fittings on both ends?
We need the "female" fitting (I don't know what the hell you really call it) on the output side ...
Why BMW did that to us is another question I'd like to understand........

Reaver ... what would your flushing rig look like if you made one?
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Old 10-19-2013, 04:54 PM   #44
MikeMike
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Reaver ... what would your flushing rig look like if you made one?
I think they call it a bidet.
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Old 10-19-2013, 05:13 PM   #45
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I think they call it a bidet.


I don't care who you are, that right there is funny!

I'm about to swap out my old assembly with that new one you were drooling over. I have a Jeep fuel pump of the same design (but larger). I figured I'd get a rheostat thing and pump fuel backwards at low pressure into the output barb and see what happens. Blow it all back through the pump without disassembling it. I may wreck it or start the garage on fire but it wouldn't be the first time.
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