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Old 10-13-2013, 01:02 PM   #16
dallasdrz
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Carb fun

Pilot jet clogged and/or if you reinstalled your after market mixture screw .
It's o-ring, washer then spring.
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Old 10-13-2013, 02:08 PM   #17
redleger OP
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So the spring goes on over the o-ring? Thought it went on top

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Old 10-13-2013, 04:54 PM   #18
dallasdrz
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Mix screw

Sorry , slide spring over screw, then washer, then o-ring.
It can be a balancing act when installing bowl and screw .


I'm assuming you already thoroughly cleaned card including diaphragm?

I just replaced a clogged pilot jet on my Beta (fcr carb) a did a quick clean after it set during the summer and I'll be damned if it ran like crap a week later.
Pulled it apart and pilot was clogged again,
Needless to say I took my time and cleaned it again and dumped old gas outta tank.
Runs great now.
Everything you say sounds like something clogged in your carb.

And one time my DRZ was sputtering really bad and finally died after couple of rides like that and it ended being my stator, pulled cover and the wire clamp cam loose cutting into my wires.
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Old 10-13-2013, 04:58 PM   #19
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ok, thats how it was. But it was too short so I put the stock one back on, because it could not be adjusted with the after market screw. didnt get to it today, Imma try to make time tomorrow. Kids will be in school so it should be easy unless the wife decides she likes me tomorrow, then Ill be with her.
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Old 10-17-2013, 06:29 PM   #20
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Ok so old problem fixed I think. Now a new problem. I rode into work today again thinking I had everything worked out. Now after everything got warm it would die when ever I stopped and when I would go to hit the magic button nothing would happen. Literally nothing. No sound from starter. It was dying every time I moved forward waiting in the line to get on post. I eventually had to stop and call for a ride. Had someone follow me home and the shorter ride with fewer stops yielded better results. Is this a idle jet issue or could it be electric? I know squat about trouble shooting electrical issues. Could this still be a carb issue.

Also first liquid cooled bike and first time with a temp gauge. No owners manual so how hot is too hot? Waiting in line at idle today it hit 206 max temp. Seems high to me but I didn't see any drainage into the overflow. It is full on coolant I checked it this weekend.



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Old 10-18-2013, 05:50 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by redleger View Post
Ok so old problem fixed I think. Now a new problem. I rode into work today again thinking I had everything worked out. Now after everything got warm it would die when ever I stopped and when I would go to hit the magic button nothing would happen. Literally nothing. No sound from starter. It was dying every time I moved forward waiting in the line to get on post. I eventually had to stop and call for a ride. Had someone follow me home and the shorter ride with fewer stops yielded better results. Is this a idle jet issue or could it be electric? I know squat about trouble shooting electrical issues. Could this still be a carb issue.

Also first liquid cooled bike and first time with a temp gauge. No owners manual so how hot is too hot? Waiting in line at idle today it hit 206 max temp. Seems high to me but I didn't see any drainage into the overflow. It is full on coolant I checked it this weekend.

Sent from my galaxy to your screen. Fat finger typos are a occupational hazard.
please go back and reread my last post .. gives basic instructions on how to ID symptoms that could be caused by fuel, electrical, mechanical and/or any combo. intermittent problems are the worst.

charging system diagnosis is another matter completely. start with charging your battery to full with a normal charger (not a tender) allow battery to sit overnight ... measure resting voltage ... 12.6v to 12.8v indicates fully charge condition. for load test start your bike.

if say your resting voltage is 12.8v and starts your bike fine .. odds are your battery is good.
measure volts at battery with engine rev'd to 3k rpm .. you should be seeing 14.2v range .. if not you've got charging problems too.

please PM phone # if that will help ...

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Old 10-18-2013, 01:15 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redleger View Post
Ok so old problem fixed I think. Now a new problem. I rode into work today again thinking I had everything worked out. Now after everything got warm it would die when ever I stopped and when I would go to hit the magic button nothing would happen. Literally nothing. No sound from starter. It was dying every time I moved forward waiting in the line to get on post. I eventually had to stop and call for a ride. Had someone follow me home and the shorter ride with fewer stops yielded better results. Is this a idle jet issue or could it be electric? I know squat about trouble shooting electrical issues. Could this still be a carb issue.

Also first liquid cooled bike and first time with a temp gauge. No owners manual so how hot is too hot? Waiting in line at idle today it hit 206 max temp. Seems high to me but I didn't see any drainage into the overflow. It is full on coolant I checked it this weekend.



Sent from my galaxy to your screen. Fat finger typos are a occupational hazard.
Does this bike have a kickstand switch? If so, you might take a look at that. Iv'e heard of several different brands of bikes with kickstand switches do the same thing you describe.
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Old 10-18-2013, 03:19 PM   #23
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That is something to check. Not sure if the E model had one.

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Old 10-19-2013, 08:07 AM   #24
dallasdrz
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That is something to check. Not sure if the E model had one.

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E models don't have the kick stand switch, to eliminate a bad stator just disconnect the plug at the frame.
The three yellow wires going to your stator, meter each one to ground (frame) and continuity is bad, no continuity is good.
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Old 10-19-2013, 09:52 AM   #25
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Ok. Today I shall buy a multi meter and learn how to use it.

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Old 10-25-2013, 06:36 AM   #26
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wish you were closer. i've got experience with the drz, but am on the other side of the state. If you havn't already thumpertalk is the place to post for drz info.
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Old 10-25-2013, 01:41 PM   #27
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This is where my plug wire runs. Cant dind 3 yellow wires except here.

Hard to trace since all wrapped up. Those the ones you were talking about?

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Old 10-25-2013, 03:24 PM   #28
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Update on progress.

Ok, update. I installed a new plug just to eliminate that possibility. The old plug had some grime up towards the porcelain, where the washer is. Looked like dirt.

I got a multimeter, measured current when not running was 12.5v and when at idle was 13.5. The voltage did not change at any RPM. So I am thinking it is definately an electrical issue. Would the stator be the reason for the lack of voltage change?

Only modifications I have done to this bike are to add a trailtech vapor speedo. The speedo is running on internal power, so I have not fiddled with electrical wiring. I did utilize the RPM function and get the temp gauge set up. I have not messed with any wiring. The PO did install a BAJA kit headlight, and blinkers/taillight. Everything looks solid, I traced all the wires and I couldn't find anything metal on metal, non wrapped wires that could be grounding.
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Old 10-25-2013, 05:31 PM   #29
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a service manual will tell you what voltage you are supposed to see. The drz is known to have a stator that will go bad.
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Old 10-25-2013, 06:04 PM   #30
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Yep, so 13.5-15v is withing parameters. zero resistance at the 3 yellow wires which seems to be within spec. Now I am lost again.
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