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Old 07-27-2014, 12:53 PM   #61
Jim Colombotos
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Awe crap lol
Guess I better order some spare filters up
Thx Much
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Old 07-28-2014, 07:18 PM   #62
kag
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Just some fyi

I just sourced O rings for the pump where it fits into the tank. I guess they are tough to come by. Just an fyi, drain the tank while it still sitting on the bike, much easier.

The problem as I see it, the filter is just too small for the amount of fuel it has to filter. I have seen several now with about 8k and they look rough. You actually do not need to pull the tank, just run the fuel down and drain the left tank. Even though its one piece its basically 2 tanks as after it gets about 1/2 on the gauge the fuel is segmented. Just turn the right hand tank off. Once you remove the 4 small screws holding the pump in it should drop out with a little wiggling to loosen the O ring holding it in place.

Now that I know what i am doing on changing this (already made the mistakes) I figure this is a 30 minute job once the fuel is drained..

There is a huge amount of info on the 990 fuel system that many guys have really worked the whole issue and the 1190 system is as far as i can tell the same for all practical purposes. Plus its good reading.

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Old 07-29-2014, 01:17 AM   #63
guglemonster
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weeeeeeeeeeeeeeellll I'm starting to feel like my mum,

I have being studying this issue from the moment I purchased the 990

now I run my own prefilter (twice the size of the new one, 3 time the size of the old version) and external stell in line fuel filter (automotive BOSCH at the moment) plu permanent sock filter under the fuel cap

we have three issues here

the first one is that a marketing product manager and not a proper engineer had a go at the project of the pump

the most important design aspect of this pump is that there are no plug-in cheap aftermarket spare parts or fuel filter
you have to adapt some other parts with more or less complicated overworking or simply copying the old design, which is flawed

they wanted to keep all spare and cosumables inside their part catalog

period

to do so they had to design something that would never have the chance to be retrofitted with a simple in-line system
the bloody aluminium (now cheap PA ) pump holder, the stupid white PA filter holder, the pain in the back flow design..... all just to avoid competition

BMW on the early 11xx system had a simple in-line fuel filter, same as on many cars, in line bosh pump, easy to replace strainer

you could find it all cheap and as good as the original.

once you got trapped in the proprietary design you're done

not even after finding out that common petrol doesn't cooperate very well with today fuel purity needs and that thier strainer was too easily clogged buy petrol suspended particles could they find a way out

they put a less selective stainer thus putting the small paper jummick in jeopardy and make it clogg faster.
ok, no cavitation for fuel starvation, the first plastic membrane would simply block fuel making the pump die, but filter life is as short as before

petrol is dirty, the more you travel the dirtier it becomes and the design simply makes all the dirt accumulate at the bottom of the tank were the pump must sit in order no to starve or run dry, it would burn in a few seconds due to cavitation or dry run, to high speed and to hot, the petrol is cooling the pump down, that's way is very stupid always to run on reserve just to show that we can, you are shortening the life span of you fuel pump this way

and just to complete the issue this bike drinks like crazy...

keep the dirt out of the tank, the rest is simply useless, there are many product to do so, use them, take your time wile refuelling instead of loosing hours in repleacing fuel filters or pump assembly

change the fuel line-flow, get the bloody paper filter out and install an external aoutomotive fuel filter, cheap, better, bigger, easyer to find a repleace

wash the prefilter (new design) with injector cleaner and petrol (light concentrantion mixture with a 20 minutes bath, repeat 3 baths with clean mixture after blowing it from inside)) and blow it from inside untill you will feel is free enough to run another 5000 miles

the pump will run more free, will work less and you bike will obtain a better fuel "pressure wave"at injector resulting in better throttle response at all rpms.

it's easy and it works



60.000 km done this way, many other 990 adv running with the same priciples, not always with the same products, but this is you way out from the fuel/pump issue :)

same thing for all the ktm, bmw, you name it, 690 included

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Old 07-29-2014, 02:39 PM   #64
RobZorba
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Quote:
Originally Posted by guglemonster View Post
change the fuel line-flow, get the bloody paper filter out and install an external aoutomotive fuel filter, cheap, better, bigger, easyer to find a repleace

it's easy and it works
Could you let us know about these mods in more detail? The pump is inside the fuel tank, there's both a paper element and a small in line filter canister inside the pump. How do you remove those and re-assemble the pump so it still works? Any chance of pics?
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Old 07-29-2014, 04:29 PM   #65
like2lean
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobZorba View Post
Could you let us know about these mods in more detail? The pump is inside the fuel tank, there's both a paper element and a small in line filter canister inside the pump. How do you remove those and re-assemble the pump so it still works? Any chance of pics?


Best idea yet, now if we can find a proper prefilter to replace the crap paper guy....
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Old 07-30-2014, 12:49 AM   #66
guglemonster
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the paper is inside the pump, out side there is either e plastyic memabrane (right in the picture) smalle and first design or a Poliester nonwoven mesh (left in the picture bigger new ktm design)





this is the paper filter inside the white cap, it's easy to open with just to small flat screwdrivers

all is with o-rings that you can easy purchase in some good shop, Viton is the best

my design is different, much bigger



we are sewing it mounting than on the old PA skerleton that is inside the old filter system







this is after 12.000 km of dirty petrol fom Albania, Bulgaria, Macedonian and Rumenian of road trip, still perfectly working, most of the dirt got of simply rolling in on the kitchen paper

the new ktm prefilter is washable, the old one not

once you have removed the paper filter and remounted the fuel pump with all the new o-rings and new ore rewashed old (but new design ) ktm original you are ready to place the external aoutomotive in-line filter

until now we used three different positions and types

mazda design is best, but only the original one is of good quality and costs too much, roughly 60 euros

mazda G60220490A

this is the perfect position in case your bike is original, battery and ABS in place

]

mine is a GM positioned to the left side of the airbox



now I suggest a Bosch steel canister F5969 cod 0450905969, not the MAN version, is cheaper and painted

or if you have a good bush plate







more questions??




>

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Old 07-30-2014, 05:27 AM   #67
kag
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larger photos would be nice as the current ones a little tough to see
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Old 07-30-2014, 05:49 AM   #68
ebrew
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Yes

Please
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Old 07-30-2014, 06:35 AM   #69
guglemonster
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Old 07-30-2014, 06:40 AM   #70
guglemonster
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sorry guys, bloody imageshack now wants money to use my own pictures and it is really tough to modify each single picture

give me some minutes please
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Old 07-30-2014, 07:23 AM   #71
guglemonster
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damn was it long

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Old 07-30-2014, 08:07 AM   #72
scudrunner82
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Originally Posted by guglemonster View Post
damn was it long


Cool ideas here, thanks guglemonster


For my upcoming trip across the USA, I'm going to install a TwinAir pre filter in the filler neck, and install new OEM filters in the pump assembly. That should do for a while I think.
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Old 07-30-2014, 08:22 AM   #73
guglemonster
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no it will not

twinair is a 40 micron monolayer mesh, totally useless for a IE injection ktm original filter set-up

you need to go down to 20 or 0, the rest will only reduce the big particles but will not save the prefilter which could clog durign the trip

if you want oem things, it kills my pride thogh, get a splitstream, it's mostly 25/30 micron with the same design, expensive but should work better

but you shoul look for better products :) and for sure NOT monolayer which works BAD

ciaps

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Old 07-30-2014, 08:56 AM   #74
JRod152
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Quote:
Originally Posted by guglemonster View Post
Once you have removed the paper filter and remounted the fuel pump with all the new o-rings and new ore rewashed old (but new design ) ktm original you are ready to place the external aoutomotive in-line filter.
For clarification...

Pre-filtering:

Use Slipstream (not uni) tank cap filters for a first line of defense. Then...

Better: use new KTM design that is bigger & washable
Best: use your washable & reusable larger sewn pre-filter w/ increased surface area. Can this be purchased from you?

Main filter:

Then, you actually remove the paper filter from the system completely & for good. You then put the white canister back together with no filter in in & put it into the tank. Then install & use your suggested external filter before the fuel rail?

Is that correct?

Can you get rid of the white canister all together with some piping & fittings? Might even increase fuel capacity a tad.
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Old 07-30-2014, 09:40 AM   #75
guglemonster
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for clarification

use MY fuel cap filter (Guglatech 0 micron, tough, washable, eternal), they can be mounted on the original fuel cap or on safari screw cap, (they told me I cannot advertise so I do not they can be found in the vendor list)

you can either use the new design and wash it or get my system and change/wash it as you like most, yes, I sell them

you cannot remove the white cap, it's supports the presure regulator and the flow back outside the tank, keep it, it'w hollow and you won't gain much

and yes, outside automotive std steel canister, NEVER NEVER NEVER a plastic one like Aprilia... remember heat and strengh..... you need steel, good quality

like this there is nothing your fuel system will ever be afraid of

in case of small water quantities the big automotive filter will block it, should it be filled up, take it out, reverse- flush it with fresh petrol and mout it back

or better stil change it, 12 euros is no big deal

this system is good for some 40.000 km with NO intervention of any kind, than I always recomend to take down the pump and check, or wash the cap filter... if needed
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