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Old 08-27-2013, 03:40 PM   #1
gaahrdner OP
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Joined: May 2013
Location: Austin, TX
Oddometer: 50
Eh? DR650 Build For South America

Hello inmates, I'm building a DR650 for an extended trip from Austin, TX to Ushuaia (as many have done before me).

Anyway, I thought I'd share my progress here, and maybe beg for help further down the road.

So, first, a disclaimer:



The bike in question is a 2000 DR650SE with ~15,000 miles, and I'll be the third owner. Picked it up for $2500 with the following mods already installed:
  • Mikuni TM40 Pumper Carb
  • Acerbis Bark Busters
  • Bash Plate
  • Airbox Mod
  • Suzuki rack and plastic panniers (I think)
  • 12V outlet

Here she is as purchased:



Pretty stock, but runs well. At least I think so; prior to this I've only ridden street bikes, namely a Suzuki SV650 and Triumph Daytona 675; this will be my first dual sport/non-FI bike.
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Old 08-27-2013, 03:42 PM   #2
gaahrdner OP
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Location: Austin, TX
Oddometer: 50
My Posts Index and Modifications List

Reserving this so I can put in a final mod list down the road, in case someone else ever wants to refer to my ineptitude at building motorcycles.

Index of This Dumbass Build Story

Chapter 1: I Fuck Up

gaahrdner screwed with this post 08-27-2013 at 04:09 PM
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Old 08-27-2013, 04:07 PM   #3
gaahrdner OP
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Bluhduh In Which I Make an Expensive Mistake

Ok, so I go to the beach for a week, and leave the bike outside my apartment complex. Of course, given this horrific drought we've been in for the past few years, the one week I'm gone it rains for a few days. Typical.

Getting back, I'm anxious to get started on the bike, I have some parts in mind to order, however, lo and behold the bike doesn't start. All I can hear is the solenoid clicking.

At first I think it's the battery, maybe the voltage is too low so I charge it up. Nope. Maybe the battery is just junk? So I get a Shorai LFX battery and wire it up.



Still nothing. This thing is tiny though, so I'm keeping it. Attempting to push start it leaves me winded after 20 minutes (or I'm doing it wrong), so I figure it must be the starter motor. It is 13 years old, so maybe there is some build up in there, and I've read on this very forum about some starter problems. Only one way to find out!

I find this blog post detailing how to get to the starter engine and get to work.

Seat off.


Hmm those exhaust header bolts are in there pretty good, and a bit cruddy.



I read up on how to remove seized bolts, the best way seems to utilize acetone and the ATF, however when I call them they have no idea what I'm talking about. Pretty sure I'm on some kind of list now as well. The next best thing is "kroil" which I can't find anywhere, and then Liquid Wrench, and some heat, so I start soaking the bolts for a few days. During this time I've been ordering parts and researching all I can about seized bolts.

I pick up a "breaker bar" per my brother's advice (the mechanical one in the family) and a butane torch, and start my task. The first bolt takes a while and after tightening and loosening it, with a slight groan finally comes out. Looks like it has taken a few threads with it as well, hmm. Guess I have to retap it.

On to the second bolt.



Shit.



Well, that's not good.

I read up on how to get out broken bolts, the main piece of advice being "Don't try it yourself asshat," so I call up a local motorcycle mechanic and he takes it for a few days, and, of course he can't get it out either. Says it's some kind of hardened steel and no EZ-Out is going to work, but he knows a good welding shop and they can fix it right up, and sure he'll tow it for free and not even charge me anything since he couldn't get the bolt out. This is a Friday, and their main guy is out until Tuesday, but he'll get to it then first thing. I call Tuesday, well, another employee had a heart attack so it'll be awhile.

So, basically, 15 days later and $308 less I've got the bike back with new threads; there are some bits of metal everywhere due to the grinding but it looks like the exhaust port was sealed off. I hope.

And now we're at today!
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Old 08-28-2013, 12:56 PM   #4
gaahrdner OP
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I disassembled quite a bit of the bike today, trying to inspect and clean up the frame and take off bits that are being replaced. Here's the bike in it's current form:



I found one small crack in sub frame, right above the wheel there in the picture; not sure if I should get it welded or not? There's some rust as well but it looks to be mostly surface, so I'll sand that out and repaint it with some Duplicolor BM0360, which seems to match the original color pretty well.

Here's a better picture with the type of rust I'm talking about. Also, I can't seem to find the OEM part number for the rubber cushion that goes in this hole. The exhaust system mounts on here, but I destroyed the cushion on accident. Any thoughts?



Front end, looking pretty manky. Stock handlebar is going to be replaced by a Renthal FatBar in a CR High Bend.



The upper chain roller is still there, and it seems like everyone agrees that it should be taken off. Those shiny particles are from the welding job I had to do, so I have a ton of cleaning ahead of me. As well, the swingarm chain guard is pretty heavily scored, so maybe the chain is too tight? You can kind of see it in this picture.



Next up, removing the swingarm and checking all the bearings and linkages, as well as the forks and whole front end. This should be fun in the Texas heat. :)
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Old 08-28-2013, 06:07 PM   #5
cowboy7900
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Thumb

Cool thread. The DR is a great bike. If you put the time into keeping up on maintenance it will be very dependable. As for swing arm chain guard, the wear is caused by the chain being to loose not to tight. But they all wear, that's what they're for. As long as your' chain isn't wearing into the front of the swing arm you're alright.

I order all my OEM from Babbitt's. They have a great site with all the factory microfiche schematics.

http://www.suzukipartshouse.com/oemp...b72522/muffler

Your cushion is number 17 in that drawing. Shipping is kind of expensive if you're only ordering a few things but the price for OEM parts is the best I can find.

Also, as far as bearing s go I ordered all my bearings from Procycle.

http://www.procycle.us/

They have great prices on aftermarket stuff.

My wife and I just replaced every bearing on her '98 DR650 with bearings from them and I was very pleased with the service we got from them.

Penetrating oil. I swear by P. BLaster. or as most people call it P.B. Blaster. Just spray it on and let it soak for a 15 minuets or so. If the part is really seized let is soak for a few days spraying it once a day. I have never had a bolt or nut not come off when using this stuff. Just take your time. An Impact driver would help also. It induces shock to the bolt or screw which will help break it loose.

http://www.sears.com/kd-tools-sae-im...a=00999001000P

I have one like this. It accepts all 3/8th drive sockets as well so you can use it on more than just Phillips and flat head screws.

Good luck with your project and feel free to PM me if you have any questions.

Brett
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Old 08-28-2013, 06:08 PM   #6
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Oh and I forgot to say, welcome to the forum.
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Old 08-28-2013, 07:37 PM   #7
Kommando
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Welcome! Definitely weld any cracks or other faults in the frame or swingarm. You may even want to gusset or reinforce a few areas.

Swap that upper chain-roller for a loctited setscrew. Check out the DR650 wikia webpage for other "fixes" on the DR, like loctiting and torquing the NSU screws and primary nut, greasing all the bearings, loctiting all the fasteners that you don't want coming loose, converting the tail/brake light and dash light to LED for wattage savings, and other fun projects.
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Old 08-28-2013, 09:51 PM   #8
VooDooDaddy
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Hello Gaahrdner,

I feel your pain concerning the exhaust bolt. I did the same thing last fall the day I bought my 2001 DR650 and brought it home. 10 minutes after unloading it, I bend down to see the cam chain tensioner was leaking oil. So I go to remove the damn thing, by attempting to remove the header, and I broke the exact same exhaust bolt.

Long story short, I had to drill it out and helicoil the bolt hole. It was a PITA, but alot easier than removing the head.

Anyway, I have a similar SA trip planned. Below are the before/after shots of my 2001 DR650SE. I did almost all the work myself (except for Cogent rebuilding my rear shock).

Before


After
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Old 08-29-2013, 07:56 AM   #9
Kawidad
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Location: Central Coast, Cal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VooDooDaddy View Post

After

Nicely done.
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Old 08-29-2013, 10:35 AM   #10
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gaahrdner View Post
Hello inmates, I'm building a DR650 for an extended trip from Austin, TX to Ushuaia (as many have done before me).

Anyway, I thought I'd share my progress here, and maybe beg for help further down the road.

So, first, a disclaimer:

The bike in question is a 2000 DR650SE with ~15,000 miles, and I'll be the third owner. Picked it up for $2500 with the following mods already installed:
  • Mikuni TM40 Pumper Carb
  • Acerbis Bark Busters
  • Bash Plate
  • Airbox Mod
  • Suzuki rack and plastic panniers (I think)
  • 12V outlet
Here she is as purchased:

Pretty stock, but runs well. At least I think so; prior to this I've only ridden street bikes, namely a Suzuki SV650 and Triumph Daytona 675; this will be my first dual sport/non-FI bike.
Welcome!
Appears you've been doing your homework and reading up on the DR. Lots to know. As you're a relatively new rider with limited background on dual sports ... give yourself time to learn about the bike.

WHAT IS YOUR ESTIMATED DEPARTURE DATE?
WHAT IS YOUR BUDGET? ... BOTH FOR BIKE BUILD? ... AND FOR YOUR TRIP? HOW LONG DO YOU PLAN TO BE ON THE ROAD?

A good starting reference is here:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...2&postcount=32

The index covers lots of topics. More concise than BIG DR650 thread.

Also, find as many other DR650 builds as you can. There are quite a few out there ... some good ideas to be had!

Your 2000 has a few issues ... possible leaking base gasket. Not sure about the Sprag clutch issue on that year. Early DR's had a Kick back problem with starter clutch, but I think by 2000 it was fixed? Double check this.

The rubber swingarm rubber protector wear is normal. If swing arm is coming off ... replace it. It's easy! The swingarm bearings last well on the DR unless lots of underwater riding has been done. More problematic are wheel bearings and Hubb bearings. Replace them all with OEM or quality double sided bearings. NO ALL BALLS BEARINGS.
Replace the rubber cush drive bumpers in the Hubb also.

Steering head bearings also hold up well ... but your bike is old ... so perhaps a good idea to replace?
Check all rubber bits; lines, hoses et al. On a 13 year old bike ... these things can be past their USE BY date. Go with stainless line front brake line.

Make sure wheels/spokes are not rusted or badly corroded.
If your Carb is working ... great ... but keep in mind the pumper carb is more difficult to TUNE and Maintain. Bit tricky.

If it's returning 50 MPG or better ... then probably worth keeping it. If not ... I'd ditch it (sell it off) and go with stock BST40 CV carb. Keep in mind in S. America you'll up over 12,000 ft. a lot ... even as high as 14K ft. The DR needs to be jetted quite LEAN to run well up that high. An adjustable fuel mixture screw is a must. Getting good fuel economy will be very important on the road. Shoot for between 47 and 55 MPG. With IMS tank, should give you around 230 mile total range.

The most common mistake DR650 (and other) travelers make has to do with Chains and Sprockets. SO MANY stories of woe here. The key is to start with brand new parts ... and the VERY BEST chain and sprockets. Getting the good stuff is near impossible in S. America ... and very expensive for Japanese parts.

I like DID VM-2, 525, X ring chains ... or latest DID X ring 525 chain. Very strong, long wearing. Some convert to a 520 size. But a 525 chain will last about 20% longer than a 520. On the road in 3rd world, this matters.

The front sprocket is the key to long chain life. Start with brand new OEM sprockets ... and bring 3 spare fronts. Change every 7000 miles or so. This will save your chain over long term and extend life of rear sprocket too. One of your spare fronts should be a JT (Thailand) 14T sprocket. Use stock OEM rear sprocket for longest life. Bring one spare.

This set up will go over 25,000 miles on the same chain. Rear sprocket should be changed at 13,000 miles. At 25K, if you're still on the road, you'll need to schedule service stop for a new chain at this point. Most S. America rides are under 20K miles total.
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Old 09-04-2013, 02:16 PM   #11
gaahrdner OP
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Joined: May 2013
Location: Austin, TX
Oddometer: 50
Quote:
Originally Posted by cowboy7900 View Post
Cool thread. The DR is a great bike. If you put the time into keeping up on maintenance it will be very dependable. As for swing arm chain guard, the wear is caused by the chain being to loose not to tight. But they all wear, that's what they're for. As long as your' chain isn't wearing into the front of the swing arm you're alright.

I order all my OEM from Babbitt's. They have a great site with all the factory microfiche schematics.

http://www.suzukipartshouse.com/oemp...b72522/muffler

Your cushion is number 17 in that drawing. Shipping is kind of expensive if you're only ordering a few things but the price for OEM parts is the best I can find.

Also, as far as bearing s go I ordered all my bearings from Procycle.

http://www.procycle.us/

They have great prices on aftermarket stuff.

My wife and I just replaced every bearing on her '98 DR650 with bearings from them and I was very pleased with the service we got from them.

Penetrating oil. I swear by P. BLaster. or as most people call it P.B. Blaster. Just spray it on and let it soak for a 15 minuets or so. If the part is really seized let is soak for a few days spraying it once a day. I have never had a bolt or nut not come off when using this stuff. Just take your time. An Impact driver would help also. It induces shock to the bolt or screw which will help break it loose.

http://www.sears.com/kd-tools-sae-im...a=00999001000P

I have one like this. It accepts all 3/8th drive sockets as well so you can use it on more than just Phillips and flat head screws.

Good luck with your project and feel free to PM me if you have any questions.

Brett
Thanks cowboy7900, Babbitt's looks pretty good. I've been ordering most of my parts from Procycle and RockyMountainATVMC, prices seem to be pretty even all around. I did recently pick up an impact driver from Harbor Freight, and it really helped out when I was rebuilding my front caliper.
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Old 09-04-2013, 02:19 PM   #12
gaahrdner OP
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Joined: May 2013
Location: Austin, TX
Oddometer: 50
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kommando View Post
Welcome! Definitely weld any cracks or other faults in the frame or swingarm. You may even want to gusset or reinforce a few areas.

Swap that upper chain-roller for a loctited setscrew. Check out the DR650 wikia webpage for other "fixes" on the DR, like loctiting and torquing the NSU screws and primary nut, greasing all the bearings, loctiting all the fasteners that you don't want coming loose, converting the tail/brake light and dash light to LED for wattage savings, and other fun projects.
Thanks Kommando, I have been referencing that wikia page quite a bit. I must have been inhaling too much cleaner as I can no longer find the crack in the subframe! No idea what that was on about. I do intend to torque the NSU screws once I get the clutch plate off; right now I'm working on getting the swingarm off, the rear cylinder rebuilt, than the forks done, then the wheel bearings, etc.
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Old 09-04-2013, 02:21 PM   #13
gaahrdner OP
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Joined: May 2013
Location: Austin, TX
Oddometer: 50
Quote:
Originally Posted by VooDooDaddy View Post
Hello Gaahrdner,

I feel your pain concerning the exhaust bolt. I did the same thing last fall the day I bought my 2001 DR650 and brought it home. 10 minutes after unloading it, I bend down to see the cam chain tensioner was leaking oil. So I go to remove the damn thing, by attempting to remove the header, and I broke the exact same exhaust bolt.

Long story short, I had to drill it out and helicoil the bolt hole. It was a PITA, but alot easier than removing the head.

Anyway, I have a similar SA trip planned. Below are the before/after shots of my 2001 DR650SE. I did almost all the work myself (except for Cogent rebuilding my rear shock).

Before


After
Hey thanks VooDooDaddy, you've given me a bit of hope.

Your bike looks great, what kind of mirrors are those? I'm still searching for a new exhaust; I let one go on eBay (40F0) the other day, but it was pretty banged up for $75 + shipping. Right now I'm thinking I might get a Hayabusa exhaust. That midpipe sure doesn't get any cheaper though.
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Old 09-04-2013, 02:39 PM   #14
gaahrdner OP
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Joined: May 2013
Location: Austin, TX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Welcome!
Appears you've been doing your homework and reading up on the DR. Lots to know. As you're a relatively new rider with limited background on dual sports ... give yourself time to learn about the bike.

WHAT IS YOUR ESTIMATED DEPARTURE DATE?
WHAT IS YOUR BUDGET? ... BOTH FOR BIKE BUILD? ... AND FOR YOUR TRIP? HOW LONG DO YOU PLAN TO BE ON THE ROAD?
Thanks Adv Grifter. To answer a few of your questions, I was planning on leaving early November, budget is about $7500 for the bike, and quite a bit more for the trip. I have no end date in mind, whenever it's time to go home I suppose.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
A good starting reference is here:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...2&postcount=32

The index covers lots of topics. More concise than BIG DR650 thread.

Also, find as many other DR650 builds as you can. There are quite a few out there ... some good ideas to be had!
Yep, I've read that whole thread, a lot of good stuff!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Your 2000 has a few issues ... possible leaking base gasket. Not sure about the Sprag clutch issue on that year. Early DR's had a Kick back problem with starter clutch, but I think by 2000 it was fixed? Double check this.
I haven't noticed any leaking at all, I'm thinking the base gasket was replaced a while ago; the previous owner was a mechanic for Ducati. Supposedly. I'm not sure how to check a "kick back problem"; what should I be looking for?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
The rubber swingarm rubber protector wear is normal. If swing arm is coming off ... replace it. It's easy! The swingarm bearings last well on the DR unless lots of underwater riding has been done. More problematic are wheel bearings and Hubb bearings. Replace them all with OEM or quality double sided bearings. NO ALL BALLS BEARINGS.
Replace the rubber cush drive bumpers in the Hubb also.
I did indeed order new wheel bearings, however they are All Balls bearings; there seems to be a lot of back and forth about these, maybe I should return em and get some OEMs? What would you suggest I get for double sided bearings? Pivot point? I do have replacement rubber cush drive bumpers.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Steering head bearings also hold up well ... but your bike is old ... so perhaps a good idea to replace?
Check all rubber bits; lines, hoses et al. On a 13 year old bike ... these things can be past their USE BY date. Go with stainless line front brake line.
Yep, already got stainless brake lines waiting in the garage!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Make sure wheels/spokes are not rusted or badly corroded.
If your Carb is working ... great ... but keep in mind the pumper carb is more difficult to TUNE and Maintain. Bit tricky.

If it's returning 50 MPG or better ... then probably worth keeping it. If not ... I'd ditch it (sell it off) and go with stock BST40 CV carb. Keep in mind in S. America you'll up over 12,000 ft. a lot ... even as high as 14K ft. The DR needs to be jetted quite LEAN to run well up that high. An adjustable fuel mixture screw is a must. Getting good fuel economy will be very important on the road. Shoot for between 47 and 55 MPG. With IMS tank, should give you around 230 mile total range.
Wheels look good, no rust or corrosion. As for the carb, I have a lot to learn about em. I was thinking I might get some different jets? I'd rather not sell it. It does indeed have an adjustable fuel mixture screw.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
The most common mistake DR650 (and other) travelers make has to do with Chains and Sprockets. SO MANY stories of woe here. The key is to start with brand new parts ... and the VERY BEST chain and sprockets. Getting the good stuff is near impossible in S. America ... and very expensive for Japanese parts.

I like DID VM-2, 525, X ring chains ... or latest DID X ring 525 chain. Very strong, long wearing. Some convert to a 520 size. But a 525 chain will last about 20% longer than a 520. On the road in 3rd world, this matters.

The front sprocket is the key to long chain life. Start with brand new OEM sprockets ... and bring 3 spare fronts. Change every 7000 miles or so. This will save your chain over long term and extend life of rear sprocket too. One of your spare fronts should be a JT (Thailand) 14T sprocket. Use stock OEM rear sprocket for longest life. Bring one spare.

This set up will go over 25,000 miles on the same chain. Rear sprocket should be changed at 13,000 miles. At 25K, if you're still on the road, you'll need to schedule service stop for a new chain at this point. Most S. America rides are under 20K miles total.
This is great, thanks! I also got a DID 525 VX 110L X-ring chain, I didn't get any front sprockets though, I'll pick some up. Rear sprocket didn't look too worn but I think you are right, it probably should be replaced, just in case. I can use the other as backup.

Thanks for all the advice!
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Old 09-04-2013, 03:00 PM   #15
gaahrdner OP
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Joined: May 2013
Location: Austin, TX
Oddometer: 50
Small Updates

I finally got around to getting a bit more done. I rebuilt the front master cylinder, and front master caliper. No pictures, but the caliper took quite a bit of time, the pistons were in there real good. Also fixed the starter.

Removing the starter. Nasty.



The old brushes after removal. Also nasty. Look at all that corrosion! There was a ton of carbon in there as well, no wonder it wouldn't spin.



I picked up the Warp9 starter cap as well, a nice looking piece of farkle!




And voila.



Here's the installation instructions:

http://www.procycle.us/info/guides/d...p_install.html

Unfortunately I didn't find it until just now, so I hope I didn't fuck up the cam chain tensioner. I don't remember any tension...

...err, what's the worst that could happen?
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