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Old 12-18-2013, 12:26 PM   #31
Bluebull2007
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Thats really neat stuff there Armageddon & Dave!!
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Old 12-19-2013, 05:46 AM   #32
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What does that weigh, D? I could make you a composite one
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Old 12-19-2013, 06:10 AM   #33
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Yeah I know... weight weight weight... Everybody is getting paranoid about it ....

May be Titanium is better in this one, you know how to make one in Ti, right?
I really do not remember the weight by heart, but there are ultralight versions in Aluminium. Almost 50% reduction in weight compared with the 'standard' versions. I am testing them and will keep doing it till the design is finalized. The sheet metal gets complex, but the reduction as a percentage makes it worth it.
Of course, if you go composite, the reduction is there, but the material is way too complex and unhealthy for my likes. Also more expensive. No?

(There is a version which is lighter than air, it will be almost indestructible and will be ready in the near future. We have solved most of the design issues we had with them. )

Till later,
D.
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Old 12-19-2013, 06:38 AM   #34
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Yes definitely more expensive. Weaves laid at different angles etc, epoxy and bagged. Ti would be great and I could do one for you but it would be huge money
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Old 12-19-2013, 02:09 PM   #35
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For one part, yes an aluminium fabrication would be cheaper than composites. For 10, maybe not. It depends on how many labour hours you need to put into each piece vs the material cost. The initial set up and material cost is higher for composites but you can punch a decent volume out fairly quickly after that.

Anyway, Dimitri, those plates look 'factory', I wouldn't expect anything less from you!

Cheers,
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Old 12-20-2013, 01:29 AM   #36
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The composite plates I make are 4 layers of 600gsm carbon laid at opposing angles and 2 layers of carbon/twaron, one top one bottom. Incredibly stiff but will flex a little if required. Bagged and infused with epoxy. Yes they are more expensive than ally, I did them more to show people what can be done with composites for rally bikes than to actually sell them. Here's one just before being drilled. The blue black colour is the carob/twaron fibre. Twaron is an aramid like kevlar, just black rather than yellow

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Old 12-20-2013, 01:50 AM   #37
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Yeah, you're right it'd be cheaper for a piece like that which could be done out of a bent aluminum plate. I was thinking more of Dimitri's part with multiple pieces cut, bent, welded together and anodized or powder coated.

Edit: nice website by the way

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Old 12-21-2013, 01:23 AM   #38
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Old 12-29-2013, 11:13 AM   #39
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Planning nav gear on a shoestring budget, have a manual RB on the way which I am going to add motors to at some point, now thinking about trip meters... Either going to be bicycle speedos (I can find something with a suitably large display) or building my own powered by an arduino.... Does anyone know of any rally trip meter arduino projects I could use as inspiration? Or can anyone suggest a good bicycle speedo?
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Old 12-29-2013, 12:45 PM   #40
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Just bear in mind that any trip you use needs to have the ability to adjust it so you can match the roadbook. Otherwise the money saved on the kit could end up being false economy if you have to abandon an event (entry fee, fuel etc) because you can't match the instructions due to the trip being out to the roadbook, or if your roadbook reader fails in some way. For example the F2R guys have spent years on developing the roadbooks to be as resistant to vibration as possible, and the motors to handle all the banging and shock.

A bicycle tripmeter tends to have set wheel diameters (in my experience) for you to choose so that's a consideration if the max front size the device will cope with is say, 20". You'd need one which can be calibrated to your exact tyre circumference and which can be adjusted on the fly up or down in total distance.

Maybe another way of looking at is that used roadbooks and trips (assuming F2R or MD / RNS, ICO) in half decent condition will always fetch decent money because there will always be buyers so if you did buy new and you don't enjoy it the loss would be small
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Old 12-29-2013, 01:51 PM   #41
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Cheers Mike, should have added that this is just to get me started practising around local roads and lanes. If I enjoy and get the knack for it ill look at some real kit.
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Old 12-29-2013, 02:55 PM   #42
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For a cheaper alternative to an ICO get a Trail Tech Striker/Vapor (http://www.trailtech.net/712-101) and the optional remote switch (http://www.trailtech.net/digital-gau...-remote-switch) so you can accesss the adjustable trip function.

It's a bunch cheaper and has all the functions of the more expensive ICO.
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Old 12-29-2013, 03:20 PM   #43
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I think the Trail tech vector is the only one with adjustable odo via remote?
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Old 12-29-2013, 05:34 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gany View Post
I think the Trail tech vector is the only one with adjustable odo via remote?

Worked in the Baja rally. Had the vector as primary and vapor secondary. The remote isn't IP rated. I found out.
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Mention to HogWild which way the wind is blowing where you're at, wait 20 minutes, and he'll post a picture of the intersection your at and a Google Earth route of how to get there.
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Old 12-29-2013, 07:05 PM   #45
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I was rushed to out the phone down while typing earlier. I should mention that the vector is an adequate entry computer but it will quickly be inadequate of you choose to continue. The display isn't big enough for quick looks though it is ok for slower sit down sections mostly. I was happy with its performance for the mean time. I intend on cleaning and sealing the remote. It's in "the list."
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Mention to HogWild which way the wind is blowing where you're at, wait 20 minutes, and he'll post a picture of the intersection your at and a Google Earth route of how to get there.
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