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Old 10-30-2013, 04:53 AM   #16
ICERIDER
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Could be right about the oil pump running backwards against the check valve I suppose. Anyway that is secondary to the main issue and should go away if you can stop the backfire. The other risk you are running now is you are giving all you carb/vac connections a hard time plus your starter clutch/can chains etc with this backfire.

I'd go over those connections yet again just to make sure you are not sucking air. Do you have a very lumpy idle? Don't want to get you further into trouble but if you haven't got sync eqpt to hand note where the sync screw is and have a play with it. Very small adjustment one way or the other should get cylinder chiming in if its out.

I'd still say all you have is a cold backfire made worse by out of sync. Good luck.
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Old 10-30-2013, 08:00 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sumi View Post
IMO the leak is because of a faulty seal inside the reservoir (the green one which is at the base of the screen). I had this with a brand new seal, and had to change the seal for a new new to solve it (+ a little silicone or whatever just to be sure it seals properly) :) If you lay the bike on it's right, you can get away with little oil loss and only a little mess - you have to be fast though

I think that the oil leak is completely unrelated to the backfiring issue. Have you pulled that screen recently (like during an oil change?)?

No, it's definitelyrelated to the backfire - it only happens when that occurs.

I know the green seal you're talking about. Bu that's not the site of the oil leak. That seal is up and behind the metal flange than bolts to the reservior. That's not there the oil leaks out. The oil is coming out of the black rubber hose at the clamp. The pressure is actually enough to push the black hose physically down several mm. Do it enough times and I imagine it would pop clean off, now that the surfaces are all oily.



Quote:
Originally Posted by ICERIDER View Post
Could be right about the oil pump running backwards against the check valve I suppose. Anyway that is secondary to the main issue and should go away if you can stop the backfire. The other risk you are running now is you are giving all you carb/vac connections a hard time plus your starter clutch/can chains etc with this backfire.

I'd go over those connections yet again just to make sure you are not sucking air. Do you have a very lumpy idle?

Idle is totally fine once warm, or if I use the choke - consistent 1400rpm, no wavering. If I try to start it cold without the choke, the first minute or so it idles low (about 1000rpm) and needs some slight throttle input to stop it dying out. Just like trying to get it going on a really cold morning....except its summer. Once its at one or two bars, it's all daisies.

Your concerns about stressing other areas echo my own, which is why I'm not going to try and get any repeat performances. I'm going to have the carbs synced when I get a leakdown test done next week, see if that helps. Failing that, I'll try bigger mains, then lowering the needles. If none of that works, I'll just leave it the hell alone, and use the choke to start it from now on. It's a problem i have to TRY to provoke, so I just won't try. It's running fantastically everywhere else, and that's what matters, I guess.
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Old 10-30-2013, 08:38 AM   #18
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It _SHOULD_ require the choke to start when cold, if it does not the jetting is _TOO RICH_. The puff of smoke from the intake is related to a intake 'back fire', and will happen if the engine is too cold and too much throttle input is applied. I think that your expectation of the engine to run like its EFI is faulty. With carbs, it _SHOULD_ not run 100% correctly until its 100% warm.

The 45 pilot should be plenty of fuel for a quick warm up after full choke to start, dropping choke back to ~80% almost right away, then off in about 30 sec, the engine should idle ~1000-1200 until full warm idle should be ~1400. I have been tuning/running 42 pilots but with the bigger mains (178/180) and #3 clip with 4mm floats with WINGS mufflers and large inserts. I requires full choke to start cold, but when full temp its crisp and runs really well. I have found that the muffler/exhaust system flow rates make a significant difference on the fine tune setup of the jetting to get it just right. Of the two 950 SE that I tuned for the MX1000, both were the same EXCEPT the exhaust systems and as a result the bike with the longer/larger secondary pipe and open muffler required more fuel to get it to run right.

One thing that you might check is make sure that the Factory Pro pilots are 100% clean. I have seen machining debris in more than one pilot jet fresh from a FP kit...
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Old 10-30-2013, 07:17 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Head2Wind View Post
The 45 pilot should be plenty of fuel for a quick warm up after full choke to start, dropping choke back to ~80% almost right away, then off in about 30 sec, the engine should idle ~1000-1200 until full warm idle should be ~1400.
When I'm not intentionally trying to fuck with it, this is literally exactly how the bike starts at the moment....

I'm going to go out there and suggest my problem might be a 'PEBCAK' scenario.
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Old 11-26-2013, 04:15 AM   #20
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Can I get some thoughts on plug color from folks?

This is after 300km of varied riding, from low revs to highway to WOT. This is with an ITG foam filter, 168/170 mains, 45 pilots, FP needles on 3rd clip, 4mm floats, air jets stock.





To me, that looked like the tips were too white ie lean. So I cleaned the plugs, upped the mains to 170/172, and did the same ride again:




This looks a better color, but now there's a lot more of these little golden lumps on it...what are they?


170/172 with the 45 idles is much richer than recommendations for this filter but the plugs in the first pic seemed to have white tips to me.

I'm still getting slight bogging down low though so I suspect 45's might be too right for my bike.
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Old 11-26-2013, 07:13 AM   #21
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You don't think you could have a tight intake valve do you?

What about the throttle position sensor?
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Old 11-26-2013, 08:18 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jdeks View Post
170/172 with the 45 idles is much richer than recommendations for this filter but the plugs in the first pic seemed to have white tips to me.

I'm still getting slight bogging down low though so I suspect 45's might be too right for my bike.
http://advrider.com/forums/showpost....07&postcount=6

Hate to say I told you so. The ITG really frees up the intake, so the bike needs much larger jets. My bike is running fine at its current settings (170/175 & 45 idle jets). As mentioned, it could probably take slightly larger mains without any problem. I'll probably go to 172/178 when I go into the carbs again. If I were going to ride up into the mountains, I'd probably leave the mains where they are.

Whatever you do, forget about "recommendations." Each of these bikes is unique. What works on one KTM will not work on another. Don't worry about that. Worry about what works on your bike. Your current setting are close, so now it's just fine tuning to fit your bike and riding environment.
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Old 11-26-2013, 08:34 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Orangecicle View Post
http://advrider.com/forums/showpost....07&postcount=6

Hate to say I told you so. The ITG really frees up the intake, so the bike needs much larger jets. My bike is running fine at its current settings (170/175 & 45 idle jets). As mentioned, it could probably take slightly larger mains without any problem. I'll probably go to 172/178 when I go into the carbs again. If I were going to ride up into the mountains, I'd probably leave the mains where they are.

Whatever you do, forget about "recommendations." Each of these bikes is unique. What works on one KTM will not work on another. Don't worry about that. Worry about what works on your bike. Your current setting are close, so now it's just fine tuning to fit your bike and riding environment.
Here is when mine is currently.

ITG / HMFs
3.5 turns
Needle 4.5/5
Main 185/182

It runs like a scalded dog. It seems a little fat <3000 though.
Still working…..

Why doesn't someone make a carburetor that you can adjust like an airplane?
I know this is going to be fat as shit in the mountains.
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Old 11-26-2013, 02:12 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Orangecicle View Post

Hahahaha, that post was actually why I checked the plugs and decided to go up in the first place.

So you agree the first plug pic looks like it's a bit lean?


DELTATANGO: Valves have been checked, re-checked, and checked again. TPS is calibrated.

What Idles are you using with your config? Mine also seems to be a bit bogged down below 3000rpm, and while I'm not getting the carb backfiring (because I'm not intentionally trying to), occasionally it does still randomly die coming of idle.


I should also add - my pipe is a 2-1 with a Barrett, also known as "the muffler that does not muffle"
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Old 11-27-2013, 05:47 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by Jdeks View Post
So you agree the first plug pic looks like it's a bit lean?

I should also add - my pipe is a 2-1 with a Barrett, also known as "the muffler that does not muffle"
When I pulled my plugs from my bike that was popping when going down the road, the plugs were actually light tan with white powdery residue on the plug electrode. So, that was very clearly lean. Your plug in the top picture just looks really clean. I don't really see a lot of white powdery residue on it. A perfect mix will leave the plug a dark tan/copper color. I'd say the top plug is close in this regard, but adding fuel to the mix doesn't hurt anything.

As to the "muffler that does not muffle," my experience is that any free-flowing exhaust will backfire in the muffler.
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Old 11-27-2013, 12:30 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by Jdeks View Post
Hahahaha, that post was actually why I checked the plugs and decided to go up in the first place.

So you agree the first plug pic looks like it's a bit lean?


DELTATANGO: Valves have been checked, re-checked, and checked again. TPS is calibrated.

What Idles are you using with your config? Mine also seems to be a bit bogged down below 3000rpm, and while I'm not getting the carb backfiring (because I'm not intentionally trying to), occasionally it does still randomly die coming of idle.


I should also add - my pipe is a 2-1 with a Barrett, also known as "the muffler that does not muffle"
I don't know about the idle jets. I guess stock.

Oh you should hear these ITGs……….awsome…….

I think mine is too fat down low. These cams may be peakyer, I don't know.

We'll get it sorted out won't we?:loll

Mine will haul fuckin ass!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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