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Old 11-05-2013, 02:43 AM   #1
john_aero OP
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KTM 950 Maintenance for new owner

Ok i put this up aswell on the UK site.

just bougt a 2004 ktm 950, down as 1st build/registered by ktm on Oct 2004.

It has 29k mile son it and has service history from non ktm dealers.

It had the headgasket bolt done an its 2nd service from the book records

Ktm have the following on record for warranty/recalls
1 - Cutch slave cyliner
2 - Oil leak in valve drive
3 - Carb trouble

So guessing the slave cylinder is just another ktm part so may need replace this.

So i want to do full service and check/upgrade anything i can before i use bike

I will be doing following
1 - Oil & filter
2 - Valve check
3 - Oil jet clean (may upgrade to the larger size)
4 - water pump rebuild with new shaft.
Can i buy a complete shaft with impeller or are they 2 seperate items??
5 - flush coolent

Now here is the question

what else do i need do.

1 - Check if i have tapered or key way style freeway
2 - Check clutch pushrod
3 - check sprag clutch (not sure never done this before)
4 - Some where say something about check and re torquing starter bolts or flywheel bolts
5 - check starter torque limiter if has new or old one fitted.

Then throw some new rubber on and maybe soon a new chain sprocket kit.

I did noticed when riding bike into garage off trailer with clutch in, it still wants to move. this may just be fact it was cold and bike was only started up and not ridden in few days id say

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Old 11-05-2013, 02:51 AM   #2
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When I bought my 950 adv in February, I just went through the HOW and made sure everything was done. I also did a full service but did not check the oil jets at the time. That's something to do this winter.
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Old 11-05-2013, 02:58 AM   #3
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There lies the problem to do everythig in the HOW i would have take week off hahaha

what i think is listed on HOW is what put above but want make sure not missing anything

also when comes to spray clutch not sure what look for in wear etc.

also seems be conflict regarding the torque limiter some say upgrade others say leave old one in
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Old 11-05-2013, 03:49 AM   #4
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If it's still the original clutch pushrod on the bike that could/would explain the dragging of the clutch. The original pushrod is two-piece pushrod as the replacement part is a singel unit.

The replacement part number is 60032054400 and here in sweden it's just around 30, it's a quick 5-10 min job to exchange it, look like this.

- Pull the clutch outer cover and the slave cylinder, take out pin at the slave cylinder and push the rod out the other side.
- Mount in the revers order and your done deal. Mind the ball bearing at the slave cylinder/pushrod.
Check the torque on the bolts for the pressure cap (?) should be 10nm, known issue, when you're at it check the torque of the center bolt as well should be 130nm (on my 05.5 it was just finger tight after 71000km )

Check the slave cylinder for leaks, prone to fail.

Heard of problems with UK model with the de-icing thingy at the cards, check the connections.

Check the starter relay and all connector, clean/lube re-install.

Check the mudflap if it's grinding down the swing arm.


If you want to get a complete, and now we are talking about a complete, list of what to do with pictures check Pyndons thread. Mind that it will take twice as much time to read it as you would think it would take to do the service in the first place and after you have read it you would be paranoid and the service time will quadruple...

Found a nice list compiled by Geek as well, it's a good start.

Will try and find som pictures to lighten up the post.

Cheers,
Zappa
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Old 11-05-2013, 05:11 AM   #5
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yes i know internet is a curse, more you read more you payand soon end up with a new bike

what i might do is check pushrod then order if required as dont want buy it and not be able return it.

Check the torque on the bolts for the pressure cap (?) should be 10nm, known issue, when you're at it check the torque of the center bolt as well should be 130nm (on my 05.5 it was just finger tight after 71000km )

what bolts you mean, on the clutch plate is it?

Check the slave cylinder for leaks, prone to fail.


mine was replaced by KTM at some point as down as recall//warranty on their system.

if i check freewheel and it has a keyway in it i take it its the upto date part and dont need replace it. if so do i still need pull it out to check the sprag?
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Old 11-05-2013, 11:22 AM   #6
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trying to view tech bulletins on the HOW section but all comming up as not available
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Old 11-05-2013, 11:39 AM   #7
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The keyway/taper holds the flywheel, and IIRC you don't have to remove the flywheel to torque the freewheel. The freewheel bolts need to be torqued using Loctite 648. Be sure this has not already been done, or the bolts will just twist off if you try to take them out. I think they were supposed to put some kind of a paint mark if already done.

Your bike should not have a torque limiter, that was on later models.
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Old 11-05-2013, 11:48 AM   #8
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well no record in service history and none on ktm computer

i take it unless marked with paint i take it they are not done

so if hey are torqued or i go and re torque them will this solve lot of the issues regarding sprag wearing

also if mine does not have upgraded torque limiter is it advisable to upgrade it
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Old 11-05-2013, 12:01 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by john_aero View Post
well no record in service history and none on ktm computer

i take it unless marked with paint i take it they are not done

so if hey are torqued or i go and re torque them will this solve lot of the issues regarding sprag wearing

also if mine does not have upgraded torque limiter is it advisable to upgrade it
The freewheel bolt issue was not to do with sprag wear. The problem was that the bolts would sometimes back out, and destroy the stator.

Be sure to not just re-torque; take them out and put them back using Loctite 648 only. Don't take them all out at the same time, so the position of the freewheel won't change.

In answer to your torque limiter question: I know a KTM shop employee who eliminated his faulty unit by replacing it with the early freewheel.



BTW, I think the bolts in this pic are the ones TA-Zappa was talking about.

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Old 11-05-2013, 05:00 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MortimerSickle View Post

In answer to your torque limiter question: I know a KTM shop employee who eliminated his faulty unit by replacing it with the early freewheel.



BTW, I think the bolts in this pic are the ones TA-Zappa was talking about.

Hey Thanks MortimerSickle. Mine has been acting up for over a year, Flood the bike and your screwed, but it always kind of works. Sometimes other riders say what the hell is wrong with your bike.
I don't want, don't see a need for etc. I would prefer simple and trustworthy.
I wasn't aware the early bikes didn't have the torque limiter.
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Old 11-05-2013, 05:21 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Off Road Ryder View Post
...
Mine has been acting up for over a year, Flood the bike and your screwed, but it always kind of works.
...
I'm not sure what you mean here.
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Old 11-05-2013, 10:27 PM   #12
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cheers mate,

just new to this bike so not 100% of its internals and workings.

once get into it i am sure i will have a better idea about it

just pitty not able see tech bueelitens anymore online
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Old 11-05-2013, 10:42 PM   #13
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Ok so if i do the following,

- Oil service,

- valve check

- waterpump serivce

- Remove, clean, loctite 648 & torque if required the freeweheel bolts

- Check clutch pushrod is new version

- Clean and fit larger oil jet

- check clutch pressure plate bolts are torques correctly.

is it worth taking clutch out and checking all parts or just re torque as required.

also so many talk about sprag wear should i investigate this as well

Save up and then next Jan

- replace slave master cylinder & facet pump


would that pretty much cover 90% of all issues
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Old 11-06-2013, 12:33 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MortimerSickle View Post
BTW, I think the bolts in this pic are the ones TA-Zappa was talking about.
Yes that's all 7 bolts I talked about. The big one is the 130nm "bolt"/nut I was talking about the other 6 is the 10nm.

Thanks MortimerSickle!

/Zappa
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Old 11-06-2013, 01:16 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TA-Zappa View Post
Yes that's all 7 bolts I talked about. The big one is the 130nm "bolt"/nut I was talking about the other 6 is the 10nm.

Thanks MortimerSickle!

/Zappa
when said pressure cap i never copped pressure plate had different ideas in head as cap is something diff here. sorry for confusion
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