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Old 02-20-2014, 11:16 AM   #151
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Radioman's Replacement

Since Radioman made it home in December I've been looking for another RR to follow. You're on track to be his replacement. I appreciate your focus on the people, culture, country and experience, rather than the look-at-me attitude of many RRs. Truly inspiring.

I'm currently putting together funds, funds, funds and a couple of spare parts for a 6 month Latin America trip in Nov 2016. The lodging logistics seems to be the most formidable obstacle. How are you determining which towns to stop in and where to stay. You mention hostels and couchsurfing.com. How far in advance are you making contact/reservations?

As you go along any details on planning/execution/cost will be appreciated - but don't let it interfere with having a great time.

Vin screwed with this post 02-21-2014 at 08:21 AM
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Old 02-22-2014, 03:43 PM   #152
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Since Radioman made it home in December I've been looking for another RR to follow. You're on track to be his replacement. I appreciate your focus on the people, culture, country and experience, rather than the look-at-me attitude of many RRs. Truly inspiring.

I'm currently putting together funds, funds, funds and a couple of spare parts for a 6 month Latin America trip in Nov 2016. The lodging logistics seems to be the most formidable obstacle. How are you determining which towns to stop in and where to stay. You mention hostels and couchsurfing.com. How far in advance are you making contact/reservations?

As you go along any details on planning/execution/cost will be appreciated - but don't let it interfere with having a great time.
Glad to know you are following along. I'll work on cost info over the next few days/weeks as the Central America portion of the trip comes to an end.

Regarding lodging, CS is a great option (and free). However, sometimes you need to plan fairly far in advance for this. I've found that it is best for big cities like Oaxaca, D.F., Guatemala City, Panama City, etc.

I've only camped twice now and would probably leave the camping gear behind on the next trip honestly.

For the most part I've been staying at hostels, which have been averaging $5 - $15 per night. Hostelworld.com is a great resource. I use that site along with Lonely Planet (you can search for places with parking) to find cool places to stay and to book a day or so in advance. They only require a 10% deposit, so if you don't make it you are only out a few dollars. Or for $1, you can secure your deposit w/ refund if you don't make it.

Don't let lodging discourage you. It has been the CHEAPEST part of my trip. Food, transport, entertaining chicas, and beer have been the biggest expenses thus far. And of course the boat trip to Colombia, which hasn't happened yet.

Shoot me an e-mail if you have specific questions - david.p.mobley@gmail.com

~ D
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Old 02-22-2014, 03:47 PM   #153
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GO 78, GO!!! | Costa Rica >>> Panama



I woke up this morning in David, Panama after a brief stopover. I originally planned a couple of nights in David, but I wasn't a fan of the city, so decided to book it to Panama City today. And book it I did! The racer in me came out and I made it from David to Panama in 4 1/2 hours, which is a record (if you take into account the two gas stops and 30min police detour). Hence the name of this post... GO 78, GO!!!



The "police detour" was totally my fault. I failed to realize that there are a $hitload of police radar points in Panama. I was cruising at 120k+ in an 80k zone and split between two cars directly in front of Manuel (my new friend - the police officer). He waved me over and I pulled to the side immediately. He came strolling over and immediately pulled out the infraction/ticket book. He told me that he was going to write two tickets. One for splitting between vehicles, and one for speeding. After chatting for awhile and pleading ignorance and gringo stupidity, he laughed and said he would drop it to just speeding. As he began to write, I started chatting more and joking with him to see if I could get him to let me off with a warning. He was a cheerful guy and seemed to be in a good mood. I also got it out of him that he is a lifelong moto fan. I showed him some photos of the racing days and from my trip. He looked at me and asked "are you sorry?". I said, "of course... lo siento! It won't happen again". He said, "ok amigo, be careful and slow down". So all-in-all, the 30min police detour could've been much worse. Thanks Manuel!!!



In my last post I mentioned that I would be leaving Manuel Antonio and exploring more of Costa Rica and possibly Bocas in North Panama. But damned if it didn't happen again! I got stuck in Manuel Antonio for a week (originally planned two nights). There were two reasons for the delay. First, I was staying at Hostel Plinio, which is a killer spot. I talked briefly about it in my last post, but can't say enough good things about the place. If you are coming through Costa, and are looking for a nice room w/ secure parking for the bike, don't hesitate to stop. It is owned by a really nice guy named Corey, and all of the staff are amazing. I felt at home at Plinio straight away and could have spent a long, long time.



The second reason for the delay was of course a chica. Donna is a lovely Peruvian that works at the hostel. She has been in Costa for a little under a year and plans to stay. We ended up having a LOT in common and had an amazing time exploring the town and surrounding beaches and areas. We zipped around on the bike together all week. We rode to Domenical, Uvita, waterfalls, random beaches, etc, etc, etc. She was my tour guide and we were pretty much together 24/7 when she wasn't working. We are in the process of planning some time together when I'm in Peru. She needs to visit family there anyway, so it works out perfectly. BellaDonna, my poisonous Peruvian wildflower, if you are reading this thank you for the amazing tour around Plinio and Costa Rica. Five stars! I can't wait to spend time with you in the future. ;)



So now I'm in Panama... That means that I've clocked approx 7k miles on the bike since I left. I've been away from home for three months, and have visited eight different countries. A close friend Kat sent me a message last night asking, "how is your heart?", and I have to say that I'm happier than I've ever been in life. I know that sounds like a cheesy blanket statement, but it's entirely true. I'm incredibly relaxed and am completely immersed in this adventure/journey. Chloe (the bike) has done an amazing job thus far. Aside from one flat rear (not her fault), and a small battery issue, there have been no problems. I feel confident, happy, strong, and muy tranquilo. I've grown internally as a person a great deal, and know that it was the right decision to kick a leg over the bike and go. In fact, I'm a bit sad I didn't do it sooner. Alas, I'm loving it now, and there is no such thing as the past or future, so I'll live in and enjoy the present, and enjoy the ride.



I was planning to do a few things in the city while I'm here. First, my friend Estefania lives here, but she is lame (I hope you are reading this E!). She booked a boat tour through San Blas directly over my trip here, so I probably won't be able to hang with her. I also wanted to stop into the BMW dealership to source new tires and ask about the rear wheel bearing recall (anyone reading this - I would appreciate any insight you have into this). However, after doing some research it looks as if Ruta 40 in Medellin is a better option for service. Plus, my tires have some meat left, so I'll wait until Colombia. So, now I have three nights booked here at Hostel Siriri (nice place - they are letting me park the bike directly in the lobby) with no plans. I'm thinking of studying more Spanish here in the city for a few days. I leave Thursday the 27th to meet up with Paul, my friend and fellow moto traveler from England in a sleepy little beach town southwest of the city. We'll be there for a few days, then I'll return to the city for the beginning of Carnival on the 1st, then board the Stahlratte on the 2nd for the trip to Cartagena.



I think that's it for now. I'm off for a shower and shave, then we're having a BBQ here at the hostel. Since I've been here to PC before, I've been nominated as nightlife tour guide this evening. We're going to kick it off on Calle Uruguay at the clubs/bars, then make our way over to Havana Club for some sweaty salsa. Wish us luck!

Hasta pronto,

~ D

PS... On yet another somber side note, Marco, the chef and manager of the restaurant at Plinio, was involved in a car accident last night. He was driving back to Manuel Antonio from Domenical and apparently had a single vehicle accident. I became close with Marco during my stay at Plinio. According to Donna, the current prognosis is not good and the doctors fear the worst. Marco is married with two small children. Even though the majority of you reading this don't know him, please keep Marco and his family in your thoughts and prayers. Rest well my friend, I hope to see you the next time I return to Manuel Antonio. Hang in there Marcito!
















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Old 02-23-2014, 05:19 AM   #154
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Old 02-24-2014, 02:03 PM   #155
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Originally Posted by d_mob View Post
GO 78, GO!!! | Costa Rica >>> Panama...


..
i hate you.......butt i'm loving your RR!




Peru has scored another point!
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Old 02-24-2014, 02:21 PM   #156
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Good stuff! Although I am craving more, I know that there is a line to draw when updating the trip report and just living the moment.

When I go, I think I will lay off the computer and technology in general. Have you found any angst around the use of technology when traveling? You are balancing yourself it seems, but then again.... looks like you had some very pretty distractions!!

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Old 02-25-2014, 11:07 AM   #157
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don't forget, you are supposed to find the love of your life on this trip...my wife keeps asking about that :)
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Old 02-25-2014, 12:06 PM   #158
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Good stuff! Although I am craving more, I know that there is a line to draw when updating the trip report and just living the moment.

When I go, I think I will lay off the computer and technology in general. Have you found any angst around the use of technology when traveling? You are balancing yourself it seems, but then again.... looks like you had some very pretty distractions!!

I think that using a journal is extremely important when travelling like this as there is simply too much going on to process each day without forgetting so many details. I think a lot of people use online blogs as their journals. Though I definitely agree that technology can be a huge crutch for people and can often keep one from being able to fully enjoy and appreciate every moment. Interesting debate topic for sure!
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Old 02-25-2014, 01:06 PM   #159
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Wonderful ride report. Love the chica pics. Glad you are in such good spirits and enthusiasm for the process.

I haven't invested myself in a ride report, for just these reasons of the dichotomy between the "doing" and the documenting.

I frequently think of Roy Batty's "Tears in Rain" speech from Blade Runner. Yes, some details will be lost. But, I think I am also maximizing experience, though I wish I could do both.

Sent from a cocina in Sucre, Bolivia
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Old 02-25-2014, 01:10 PM   #160
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We derived great pleasure from doing our daily ride report.

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Old 02-26-2014, 04:59 AM   #161
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Good stuff! Although I am craving more, I know that there is a line to draw when updating the trip report and just living the moment.

When I go, I think I will lay off the computer and technology in general. Have you found any angst around the use of technology when traveling? You are balancing yourself it seems, but then again.... looks like you had some very pretty distractions!!

Not at all... I'm fairly quick when I do these updates. I upload all the photos on FB as I go (every other day or so) so they have an online presence and address for reference on blog and here. Then I update the external blog once or twice per week. Then a simple copy/paste to here only takes seconds.

I don't have a physical journal (with the exception of some personal things that I jot down from time to time / i.e. pretty distractions, etc), so the online thing is the way I'm doing it. Also, I'll keep the blog forever and will hopefully be able to look back on it forever.

To answer your question no, no angst whatsoever. I like the way I'm doing it and need the tech with me anyway (for Garmin, mp3 files, photos, etc).

To each his own though. Sometimes I feel like a bit of a wanker posting up the photos on FB so frequently. But they need to have a presence online somewhere.

I'm a little under the weather today, but am about to head out for a 220 mile ride down to Playa Venao/Venado to meet up with Paul, my British moto traveling friend. Will paste up and update from there. Especially since there is literally nothing to do there. :)
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Old 02-26-2014, 05:03 AM   #162
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don't forget, you are supposed to find the love of your life on this trip...my wife keeps asking about that :)
Actually I got some really bad news last night. Sarah, the girl from D.F. that I met in Puerto Escondido. The one I really, really liked, and the one that was meeting me in Cartagena on the 12th, can't make it. She was offered a job where she has been interviewing for months. We are both bummed and talked for awhile about it last night.

When this thing is all said and done, I may end the trip in D.F. and study the final stages of my Spanish for a month and see where things go with her. We'll see.

Then again, I made an agreement with myself to clear my head of it and enjoy the trip as it goes. The road is still quite long and there are a LOT of things (and people) to experience and see.

Tell your wife to keep following along.
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Old 02-26-2014, 05:58 AM   #163
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Old 02-27-2014, 08:33 AM   #164
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Mildly Melancholic Musings From Panama



Interesting how things change. In my last post I was high on life and travels, and in amazing/positive spirits. This post reflects a bit of the opposite. I'm currently doing just fine, lazily sitting in a hammock enjoying a nice breeze in Venao (Playa Venado). However, the past few days I wasn't doing so great. Let me start from the beginning...

I left David (Daveed) and made it to the city in Panama in record time. As referenced in the last post, I found a nice hostel called Siriri. It is located in Marbella, close to the Multicentro shopping mall, and in a safe area of the city. Pablo, the owner, and the staff were all nice enough, and they let me park the bike directly in the entrance hallway, which was nice. However, after a few days in the city things started to go slightly awry.



First, I ended up going out that first night with several people from the hostel, but forgot how expensive the city can be. The last time I was there was in 2012 during a trip with the ex. We stayed at Le Meridien, danced salsa at Havana Club, sailed through San Blas, and painted the town red together. Since I had a job waiting when I returned, money wasn't a concern. This trip is obviously different. I don't have a job waiting, and Hostel Siriri, while nice, is a far cry from Le Meridien. I ended up going way over my budget that night, which pissed me off, and everywhere I looked I was reminded of the trip w/ the ex. We kept driving by Le Meridien, the guys wanted me to take them to Havana Club, then we ended up at a lounge in Casco Viejo (old town) that the ex and I had been to. It wasn't the reminders of the relationship that bothered me, but reminders of my past life. While I'm immensely enjoying the ways things are currently, it is a bit of a struggle to travel with a completely different mindset and on a completely different monetary budget. Not a bad thing, but the city was a friendly reminder that I'm certainly on a budget and can't do everything I want.



So after my quick realization that the city would be challenging due to budget constraints, I actually became a bit bored. Since I'd been there before, there wasn't much left that I hadn't already explored. I did take some nice runs up and down the boardwalk, visited the Museo de Arte Contemporaneo, explored several different/new areas of the city in search of cheap eats, and tried to find various other things to fill my time. The majority of the people at Siriri ended up just hanging at the hostel most of the day and night. While sitting around doing nothing on occasion is nice, I found myself bored and with a feeling that I was wasting days waiting for March 3rd, when the boat departs for Colombia. I'm not sure why, but a feeling of depression started to creep in. I know that not every stop during my journey will provide epic adventure and fun, but spending several days cooped up in a crowded hostel just didn't feel right. I finally slapped myself and decided that I'd leave to meet up with a friend in Venao/Playa Venado to spend a few days lounging on the beach, which is where I am now.



The third blow came after a few nights in Panama. I had booked a flight with miles for my new friend Sarah (the girl I met in Puerto Escondido) to come meet me in Cartagena. We were both looking forward to getting to know each other better, and spending time together in Cartagena and farther up the coast in Santa Marta. I had organized a nice hotel for a few nights and started planning the agenda for our week. However, Sarah informed me that unfortunately she wouldn't be able to make it. She had been interviewing for months for a dream job, and they offered it to her. She felt like it would be the wrong decision to delay the start date, thus couldn't make the trip to Colombia. She asked if I thought she should just scrap it and come to Colombia, but I said it was ultimately her decision, and that I'd hate to be the reason that she didn't get a job that meant so much to her. In the end, it kind of pissed me off since I'd put a lot of time, effort, and money into planning, and was really looking forward to seeing her, but you gotta do what'chu gotta do right?

Blow numero cuatro came after speaking to another friend, Dorothy from San Francisco. She and I have been communicating on and off about her potentially coming down to meet me in Ecuador. However, shortly after plans fell through with Sarah, Dorothy informed me that she wouldn't be able to make it to Ecuador either due to an already planned trip to Vietnam, and now a destination bachelorette party that has sprung up for one of her best friends. Again, I was really looking forward to spending time together to get to know her better, and it would have been great to explore the beaches and towns of Ecuador together on the motorbike, as I've never been. Alas, we'll have to make it happen some other time. It is lonely traveling alone at times, so I was looking forward to having two visitors along the way. The combination of both cancelations sent me further into a funk.



And the last thing that contributed to my melancholy... My father was going to help with my taxes, but due to some complex issues (divorce, sale of home, etc, etc, etc), we decided to file for an extension, which means that I'll need to be home and done with my taxes before October. He has helped tremendously while I've been away with a ton of things, but this task is just too much. After filing the extension, the realization that there is an end in sight for my adventure depressed me. I may end up finding a place along the way in the near future where I can safely leave the bike, which will give me an opportunity to fly home temporarily to knock out the taxes with an accountant, then fly back down to continue the adventure. We'll see about that option.

Ok sorry, there is one additional negative thing bothering me. I very rarely get sick, but I think all my time traveling, the vicious heat, burning the candle at both ends, and staying in crowded hostels has finally caught up with me. Somewhere along the way in the city, I started to feel a tickle in my throat. It kept getting worse and worse, and today I'm actually fully ill. The good news is that I wanted to chill for a few days in Venao and do absolutely nothing, so this gives me a good excuse to do just that. My only hope is that I'm 100% in a few days for the boat trip to Colombia. It would be a huge bummer if I was ill on a rocking boat laying out chum lines through what should be fun filled paradise. My plan is to chill here, get plenty of rest, drink a TON of water, and nurse myself back to health by the time I return to the city on the 1st. Cross your fingers for me that it passes quickly.



All that said, and sorry for the venting, I am doing well now. Even though I feel like garbage, I'm enjoying my time away from the city on a beautiful beach. My buddy Paul should be here shortly, so it will be good to hang with him. We're staying at a nice little spot called La Choza Playa Venao. You can set up a tent for $8, the dorms are $13, and they have privates for $40. I opted for the dorm, but may end up throwing up my tent the next couple of nights to save some money and get a bit more privacy. The dorm, although hot, isn't too shabby. Five out of the six beds are filled with beautiful girls from Argentina and Spain. :)

Regarding my melancholic mood, I feel like a right hypocrite since I'm the one that's been saying "you can't have the good without the bad". However, the combo of all those things did a number on me. Like I said, I'm doing much better now, and know that five days on the boat will surely cure what ails me. It is always interesting though when you travel to have any sort of negative feelings and/or emotions. When planning trips and adventures like this, it's all roses and adventures in theory. Turns out, it's still real life. It feels good to write about it though and get it out, so thanks for reading/listening.



Ok, I'm going to get off my complaining arse and figure out what to do next. On the ride down to Venao yesterday, I managed a few detours to check out some random beaches. Some were on the map, and some weren't. Aside from the last picture, which is of Venao, the beach photos above were from one I stumbled upon accidentally. A smooth winding road (resembled a supermoto course) led all the way down to Playa Destiladeros. The road ends and the desolate beach begins. There is only one hotel there called Villa Camilla Suites. It is one of the most isolated beautiful beaches I've ever seen, certainly the best I've seen on this trip. I may shoot back east today to go lounge on the beach there with my book. The bike always puts me in a good mood anyway, so a spirited ride to Destiladeros may be in order. I might, out of curiosity, look at a few properties for sale around the area. I find it hard to believe that the area won't be growing very soon, so it would be a nice investment IMO. Even if that takes time, it would be an amazing place to own property regardless.

That's all for now... I'll try to get a post up prior to our departure on the 3rd. If not, there will be a fairly long delay due to the five day trip on The Stahlratte (two days through San Blas, three days open water to Cartagena).

Ciao for now... ~ D

PS... One tip for people doing a similar trip. The Panamericana in Panama sucks! It is FILLED with moto cops radar-gunning everyone. I told you in a previous post about getting popped, but getting off with a warning. Since then, I've been diligent about looking out for them. Yesterday shortly after leaving the city, I noticed a car coming the opposite direction flash his lights at me. I immediately started looking out and sure enough, about a mile up, there was a guy on my side locked and loaded with his trusty radar gun. The posted speed limit was 80k, so I made sure to slow down to just under that. I know for a fact that I was slowed far enough in advance for him to have nothing on me. However, he came calmly walking out into the highway to wave me over. Now if I do something wrong, I have no problem taking my punishment. But, if he just wants to pull me over to be an ass or hassle me, then he can stuff it. His waves got more and more animated as I got closer. As I was passing him he looked pissed. I waved back at him and kept on going. After cruising a mile or so ahead, I rolled hard on the throttle and sped out of there. Nothing came of it, and about 15 miles or so I stopped for lunch. So for what it's worth, if you find yourself in a similar situation, maybe claim 'gringo stupidity' and run right through the checkpoints and traffic stops with the explanation if you get pulled over, "Lo siento, I thought you just liked motorcycles and were waving hello". :)
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Old 03-01-2014, 09:42 AM   #165
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Sunshine and Rain

Thank you for sharing the rainy days as well as the sunshine. These are the days that really define our true solo journeys. We fall into our old habits and then berate ourselves for just being who we are. Your post brought up memories of a similar time during one of my trips. They are hard memories but, ones that should not be forgotten.
Travel safe and I look forward to the next sunny installment.
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