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Old 05-19-2014, 12:38 PM   #271
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wow man, great update! and i enjoyed the story about the taxi, i've had to kick off a mirror or two in my day as well..

keep loose!
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Old 05-19-2014, 03:48 PM   #272
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Enjoying a Pint @ Norton's | Cusco, Peru...



Monday, May 19th, 2014
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First off, let me start by saying RIP to Jeff Powers, founder of Norton Rat's Tavern in Cusco. I've read about this place for years, and have looked forward to the day where I would ride up and enjoy a pint. Well here I am, bike parked outside, having said pint, and figured it would be a good place to post an update. Jeff opened Norton's 17 years back, but was unfortunately killed in a motorcycle accident this past November near his home in Tarapoto. I didn't know Jeff, but after reading for years about him and his pub on ADVrider and various other sites, know he was a special man, and someone I would have cherished to have met. Here is a touching memoriam written by a fellow ADVrider.



I feel like an absolute idiot. I struck up a conversation with the bartender, and her name is Yahira. Turns out, after several minutes, it dawned on me that she is Jeff's late wife. After apologizing profusely for drudging up past memories, she told me to "stop", and insisted on helping me find assistance with my current bike issues (fork seal, rear tire, bent rim, etc), and we chatted for some time. Seems that the inviting, motorcycle friendly vibe lives on here at Norton Rat's Tavern. For those who haven't been here, please make it a stop when in Cusco. It may sound silly to some, but it was equally important for me to be here at Norton's as it is for me to take the trek to Machu Picchu while in the area. Signing the bulging guest book, that dates all the way back, was a real honor and pleasure. And the food ain't bad either!



So yeah, we made it to Cusco... and boy are my arms tired! And legs, body, bike, and spirit. But, I'm excited to be here and happy that I've come this far. Yesterday marked six months away from 'home', and the ride couldn't have been better to celebrate the day. The road from Ayacucho to Abancay was long, but full of beautiful scenery and fantastic dirt roads. We intended to stop before Abancay, but were making good time, so pressed on. I will say the last hour was a bit of a slog, but who can complain from the back of the saddle? My bike continues to hiccup from time to time (hoping as easy as a replacement fuel pump, which I'll sort in Lima), and the other 'issues' are becoming more of a concern. The fork seal has really gone, the rear tire I'm sure won't last until Lima, and although working and holding air for now, the bend in the rear continues to be top of mind while riding. I have feelers out with several people to take care of the issues over the next few days, and have trust that it will all work out just fine. That leaves me with comfort and a sense of relaxation, and I'm looking forward to setting up a home base here in Cusco for some much needed R&R, and exploration of the city, Machu Picchu and the surroundings the next few days.



We'll be here for three or four days, and will head south/southwest/west through Puquio, Nasca, Ica, Pisco, and then finally Lima. Before all that, and assuming I can get the issues buttoned up with the bike, we'll take the route N/NW and will park at the police station for the hike into M.P. from the back. Any recommendations on that, and any other routes near/through the Sacred Valley are much appreciated. All that can be sent to my e-mail address here: david.p.mobley@gmail.com



So that's it for now. Figured I'd keep it short and sweet, but will post a few pictures, which everyone seems to be enjoying.

Ciao for now,

~ D












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Old 05-22-2014, 11:19 PM   #273
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Hope you get your bike issues sorted, lovin this RR!
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Old 05-23-2014, 07:02 AM   #274
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Norton Rats

That is so sad that Jeff died. I went to spanish school in Cusco and got to know him well. spending months there, you get to know other americans and their stories. Sorry you didn't get to meet him. Watched a super bowl in his place and had been cheated on in pool by many-a-englishman in his joint as well.
Dos Perros was another hangout that may or may not be there anymore. They did a great Pisco Sour. Enjoy my friend and keep it safe as I'm enjoying your posts.
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Old 05-23-2014, 05:23 PM   #275
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Originally Posted by PDX Alamo View Post
Hope you get your bike issues sorted, lovin this RR!
Got it sorted for the most part. MotoViajeros (a GREAT shop / Touratech distributor in Lima) was able to ship a new Heidenau rear and two fork seals. I worked with Alex @ PeruMotoTours, who has been INCREDIBLY helpful to get everything picked up, installed, and banged back together. Now I have a new rear, a straight rear rim, new fork seals, and I also went ahead and slapped on new sprockets and a chain that my buddy Sam brought me from the States.

Problem is, we noticed that there is some play in the front wheel when getting everything buttoned back up. Seems the front wheel bearings are shot. Man, if it's not one thing it's another! Hoping it will be fine to Lima, where I'll be taking the bike to MotoViajeros and the BMW dealership to fix the fuel pump gremlin as well that continues to torment me.

Long story short, I'm good for now. Thanks to the fine folks at these two solid places. Please give them your business if in need.

http://www.motoviajerosperu.com

http://www.perumototours.com
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Old 05-23-2014, 05:25 PM   #276
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Originally Posted by arlob View Post
That is so sad that Jeff died. I went to spanish school in Cusco and got to know him well. spending months there, you get to know other americans and their stories. Sorry you didn't get to meet him. Watched a super bowl in his place and had been cheated on in pool by many-a-englishman in his joint as well.
Dos Perros was another hangout that may or may not be there anymore. They did a great Pisco Sour. Enjoy my friend and keep it safe as I'm enjoying your posts.
Yeah, it is sad. I wish I had gotten to know him. Everyone speaks so highly.

I'm headed back once more tonight with an Irish bird that I met in Granada, Nicaragua (see post a looooong time ago - she looked me up when she got here to Cusco) to have one last pint with Yahira and to pick up some Norton Rat's stickers for the bike.
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Old 05-27-2014, 06:41 PM   #277
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Machu Picchu, Cusco, Puquio, Ica/Huacachina, Lima... Phew!!!

Tuesday, May 27, 2014
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First off, thanks Stephanie B. from Omaha. I'm glad you are enjoying the blog, and the donation will keep the wheels rolling just a little bit longer, which is much, MUCH appreciated.



I last wrote from Cusco, which means there is quite a bit to catch up on. Cusco turned out to be one of my favorite cities on the entire adventure. It's clean, full of history, beautiful architecture, friendly faces, enough of a party if you want one, and of course one of the best bars around (Norton's - thanks again Yahira for the pint the night before we left). I had a blast hanging and exploring the town (and nightlife) with Sam, and my friend Caroline (my beautiful and fun Irish friend I met in Granada, and randomly linked up with in Cusco). Not to mention it's the stopping point before Machu Picchu, which was amazing. I know, I know... Thanks Captain Obvious! It really is a special place, and I'm sure everyone knows everything they need to know about it, but don't miss it. Definitely worth the crowds of people and challenges to get there. Due to the bike issues, we ended up not doing the hidroelectrica route unfortunately, and took the traditional gringo cattle route via bus, train, then bus. Not bad, but a bit much to squeeze/do in one day.



Speaking of bike issues, I have a couple of 'thanks' for getting those all buttoned up. First, the folks at Motoviajeros in Lima. Ivan, Johaan, and Inés all helped in getting a new Heidenau rear and fork seals shipped two-day to Cusco via Cruz del Sur. They were incredibly helpful, provided a fair cost for the parts, and kept in touch frequently to ensure everything went smoothly and arrived. I'm not sure if it's standard for them to ship parts like that, but if you are in need of anything for the bike, please look them up. They are also a Touratech distributor, so if you need any accessories while in Peru, they're the ones to see.



The other major 'thank you' goes to Alex at PeruMotoTours. Alex helped communicate with Motoviajeros, drove me two-up over to Cruz del Sur once the parts arrived, and allowed the use of his shop to get the bike fixed up. Again, all at a very fair cost. We ended up straightening the rear wheel, putting on a new chain and sprocket set, replacing both fork seals, and spooning on the new rear tire. The only issue, we found that my front wheel bearings are shot, which is another story. Basically, we got everything back together, but left two things for Lima. The fuel pump issue, and the newly discovered front wheel bearing problemo. Regardless, we took care of the pressing items, and I'm writing this from a cafe in Lima, which means that I arrived with no issue. Thanks Alex! If you are in Cusco and want route info, bike repair, moto rentals, and/or very fairly priced tours, look no further.



Sam and I had amazing rides from Cusco to Lima on both paved and dirt roads. The route from Cusco (back up and through Abancay) to Puquio took us up and over mountains, around thousands of curves, by beautiful high altitude lakes, huge groups of llamas and alpacas, and loads of scenery that I'll never forget. Not to mention sunshine the entire route, which is a rarity as you near Lago Yaurihuiri from what I understand. The next day was the highlight of our riding together for sure. We left Puquio around 8am and immediately found ourselves climbing higher and higher on 26A. Before we knew it, we entered Reserva Nacional Pampa Galeras, which was stunning and full of vicuña, which are slightly smaller and more skittish versions of llama/alpaca. Apparently endangered because of their sought after fine wool, with numbers down to ~6k in the 70's, the vicuña have made a comeback in/around the reserve with numbers around 350k currently. From there, with frost, snow, and temps around freezing, we descended into the desert (by way of Nazca) and ended the day surrounded by some of the biggest sand dunes in the world (after f'ing around making fresh tracks in the desert along the way). We parked the bikes and slept in Huacachina for the evening, which is an oasis in the desert, and can be seen on the back of the 50 Peruvian Nuevo Sol note. And then this morning, we dusted off the bikes and made the ride from Huacachina all the way up to Lima.



I've had a blend of emotions over the past few days. Mostly elation and extreme happiness, but also tough and challenging moments due to bike issues, and a number of other things. Having Sam around has been a nice reminder of home, and I've had an amazing time riding through parts of Peru with him. I love sitting back and hearing him talk about his adventure here, and am glad I could be a part of it. However, and in no way is this his fault, having him here has been a bit of a reminder that I do have a life back home that needs tending to at some point. Great conversations with him, and others over the past few days, have brought up several negative thoughts/emotions/reminders of my past life, the way things 'were', the way they are 'now', and several fears looking into the future (what the hell is next?, am I being selfish/reckless with this whole adventure?, etc). I feel a bit hypocritical as I gave a nice girl advice the other day that she thanked me profusely for. She was telling me that she wanted to travel more, but was concerned that her future career would limit that (keep in mind she was telling me this in Peru, whilst traveling). I found myself explaining to her that she can't forget to "appreciate the now", and that she "can't worry about a future that doesn't even exist". And now here I am doing the exact same thing. Oh the perplexities of life... Interesting, you strap a helmet on and it all seems to come rushing through the head. Anyway, like I said it has mostly been mint, but it can be trying at times (at least for me). I met a guy today on a motorcycle that drove down from Los Angeles. His intention was to make Tierra del Fuego, but said he was currently working on the bike because he was going to sell it here in Lima. I asked him "why the change of heart?", and he simply said, "I'm tired". Needless to say, I understood exactly what he was saying. However don't get me wrong, I'm still having the time of my life, and I'm not ready to stop the grand adventure just yet! I will say taking this trip makes me appreciate the folks that I've met along the way that have been at it for 2, 3, even 6+ years (Jeffrey P / RideForPeace)!!!



Tomorrow I plan to wake up early and go for a jog around Miraflores and the beaches nearby. After the MUCH needed exercise, I'll be driving the bike over to the BMW dealership here in Lima. I'm hoping that we can pull the fuel filter and pump, and that they'll magically assess and be able to repair the issues that I've been experiencing with the bike. I'm fearful though as I'm wary of dealerships, and I've heard mixed reviews of the one here. Then again, maybe I should heed my own advice (AGAIN), and quit worrying myself to death about it (the future) until the time comes. In any event, the problem needs to be resolved as it continues to get worse. Sporadically, and more frequently as of late, when I come to a stop the bike will die. This happens in neutral and first with clutch pulled. I'll start it, run for a bit, come to a stop again and... cuts out. I can tell when it's about to happen as I can feel it surging/stuttering when lightly on the gas. Sounds like a new fuel pump is in order, and I'm hoping it's just that simple. I guess we'll see tomorrow. It has gotten more and more frequent, and more severe over the past week. I changed the air filter, reset the EFI, and have received advice to reverse polarity to the fuel pump. Haven't checked venting in fuel cap assembly yet, or looked at fuel pump/filter. I'm hoping we can all do this tomorrow together at the dealership. Having experienced watchful eyes over me while I do mechanical work is always a good thing. I'll be sure to report my experience at the dealership after we're done there.



Let me fast forward to the future... yeah yeah, I know... doesn't exist yet. Anyway, Sam flies out on the 30th, which gives us a couple more days together. We'll explore Lima, and then once he is gone, and assuming the bike is all dialed, I'll continue the journey south. I'm still planning on Bolivia, Chile, then Argentina. The remainder of my route through Peru should lead me through Colca Canyon, Arequipa, then into Bolivia around Titicaca. I have a rough route planned, but any advice is always appreciated (i.e. choice roads, small towns, good lomo saltado, whatever). All that can be sent to my e-mail address - david.p.mobley@gmail.com



The riding and scenery here has been absolutely spectacular. I crossed paths with a girl a couple of days ago who is running the opposite direction I am (she south/north, me north/south). She was telling me about some things in Bolivia she had seen that sounded unreal. I can't wait to experience them. That said, I'm gonna slam the laptop shut and enjoy the present here in Lima with Sammy. I think we're off to gorge ourselves with yet another massive Peruvian hamburger. Did I mention that jog tomorrow is long overdue???

Hope everyone is well back home... Chat soon,

~ D












d_mob screwed with this post 05-27-2014 at 08:12 PM
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Old 05-27-2014, 06:43 PM   #278
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Old 05-27-2014, 06:54 PM   #279
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About time Mr. Mobley! Wondering if got married to a fine peruvian never to be seen again

I remember back a few moons ago you said - If you ever had an opportunity to do this, do it. So.... Just keep doing it.

BTW: I am leaving in August south. Probably hit some of your well enjoyed traveled areas. Your photo is probably hanging at salsatecas everywhere. A legend.

Keep it up. Cheer up when a bit pensive and turn those thoughts to + while still thinking about your future in positive terms.

I am sure you know the song "todo tiene su final." Keep enjoying it. Bike issues will resolve.

Cheers man.
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Old 05-27-2014, 08:06 PM   #280
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Originally Posted by mopulga View Post
About time Mr. Mobley! Wondering if got married to a fine peruvian never to be seen again

I remember back a few moons ago you said - If you ever had an opportunity to do this, do it. So.... Just keep doing it.

BTW: I am leaving in August south. Probably hit some of your well enjoyed traveled areas. Your photo is probably hanging at salsatecas everywhere. A legend.

Keep it up. Cheer up when a bit pensive and turn those thoughts to + while still thinking about your future in positive terms.

I am sure you know the song "todo tiene su final." Keep enjoying it. Bike issues will resolve.

Cheers man.
Right on... Thanks brotha. Looking forward to hearing about your adventures soon enough.

Yeah, after rereading this post I feel like a bit of a pu$$y (pardon my French). Doing this adventure thing can be tough at times, but I wouldn't trade it for anything. Def makes me appreciate the dedication of folks that have been at it for 2, 3, 4, 5+ years!

Vid from last few days uploading now. Should be up soon...
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Old 05-28-2014, 06:26 AM   #281
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And as promised, a short video from the past few days...

https://vimeo.com/96660314
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Old 05-28-2014, 09:04 AM   #282
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Keep on

David - really enjoying the RR. I managed to connect with Ed; thanks for the help.
So you've hit the 6 month point. Congratulations. At this moment of contemplation let me ask you a couple of questions.
1) You said S-to-N girl planned to "park the laptop and enjoy Peru". We all really enjoy keeping up with your ride report, but how much of a distraction is writing it? Does it make you feel connected... or distracted? There is the old dilemma of capturing the moment vs. enjoying the moment. How do you strike the balance?
2) My plan is a 6 month trip; ship to Chile, ride SA then dash across CA/Mexico back to Colorado (with the thought that I can return to everything north of the gap at a later date). You know what 6 months on the road feels like now. Is it an adequate amount of time to see South America? (I know "more is always better")
Again - thanks for taking the time to post up.
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Old 05-28-2014, 12:22 PM   #283
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bike problem

i may be way behind on this, but did you check your charging voltage when the bike dies? EFI requires a minimum charge to keep 'er running.

loving the RR, thanks!
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TAT-2013: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=913898
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Old 05-28-2014, 03:22 PM   #284
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"
I've had a blend of emotions over the past few days. Mostly elation and extreme happiness, but also tough and challenging moments due to bike issues, and a number of other things. Having Sam around has been a nice reminder of home, and I've had an amazing time riding through parts of Peru with him. I love sitting back and hearing him talk about his adventure here, and am glad I could be a part of it. However, and in no way is this his fault, having him here has been a bit of a reminder that I do have a life back home that needs tending to at some point. Great conversations with him, and others over the past few days, have brought up several negative thoughts/emotions/reminders of my past life, the way things 'were', the way they are 'now', and several fears looking into the future (what the hell is next?, am I being selfish/reckless with this whole adventure?, etc). I feel a bit hypocritical as I gave a nice girl advice the other day that she thanked me profusely for. She was telling me that she wanted to travel more, but was concerned that her future career would limit that (keep in mind she was telling me this in Peru, whilst traveling). I found myself explaining to her that she can't forget to "appreciate the now", and that she "can't worry about a future that doesn't even exist". And now here I am doing the exact same thing. Oh the perplexities of life... Interesting, you strap a helmet on and it all seems to come rushing through the head. Anyway, like I said it has mostly been mint, but it can be trying at times (at least for me). I met a guy today on a motorcycle that drove down from Los Angeles. His intention was to make Tierra del Fuego, but said he was currently working on the bike because he was going to sell it here in Lima. I asked him "why the change of heart?", and he simply said, "I'm tired". Needless to say, I understood exactly what he was saying. However don't get me wrong, I'm still having the time of my life, and I'm not ready to stop the grand adventure just yet! I will say taking this trip makes me appreciate the folks that I've met along the way that have been at it for 2, 3, even 6+ years (Jeffrey P / RideForPeace)!!!
"


Hey there Dave, what you feel is normal on long trips like this. But again this is why we do it, to get out of our comfort zone and experience new. In 2010 I backpacked around the globe for 6 months..I had similar thoughts you re having now. I felt alone and lonely sometimes in some far away land but in the same time I felt like I'm doing something for me for the first time. I also felt a sense of complete freedom meaning no schedules no appointments no meetings no bills to worry about which we are so programmed to do that when you re traveling you almost feel guilty about it. Looking back that 6 months were some of the most memorable time of my entire life and wish I ve done it sooner.

Besides you must go on otherwise what am I gonna read here to keep me inspired hehe
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Old 05-28-2014, 04:04 PM   #285
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vin View Post
David - really enjoying the RR. I managed to connect with Ed; thanks for the help.
So you've hit the 6 month point. Congratulations. At this moment of contemplation let me ask you a couple of questions.
1) You said S-to-N girl planned to "park the laptop and enjoy Peru". We all really enjoy keeping up with your ride report, but how much of a distraction is writing it? Does it make you feel connected... or distracted? There is the old dilemma of capturing the moment vs. enjoying the moment. How do you strike the balance?
2) My plan is a 6 month trip; ship to Chile, ride SA then dash across CA/Mexico back to Colorado (with the thought that I can return to everything north of the gap at a later date). You know what 6 months on the road feels like now. Is it an adequate amount of time to see South America? (I know "more is always better")
Again - thanks for taking the time to post up.
No, no... I planned to park the laptop (after writing that). Writing isn't a distraction at all. I only do it on occasion, and find it absolutely necessary as I don't keep a journal of any other sorts. Without the blog/ride report, I'd forget half (if not more) of the stuff that happened along the way.

Six months for all of SA? I'd say a bit more would always be better, but you could certainly hit a LOT of the major stops along the way. Be sure to read through a lot of ride reports to figure out what seems important for you to see. Then have a list that you bring along, as you'll forget. Also, don't be afraid to take random roads here and there to seek out your own special places.

Looking forward to your ride report soon! :)
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