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Old 03-24-2015, 08:35 AM   #1
tserts OP
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Low RPM in idle when warm

Ok guys, any help would be appreciated, I'll try to be brief:

The bike was serviced by me (with the help of an inmate) 3 weeks ago.

Model 2010 F800GS, 39000km, the bike has an accelerator module. It run great before the service.

1. Oil and oil filter (Semi synthetic Castrol power 1 GPS 10w 40)
2. Air filter (went from OEM to K&N BM-8006)
3. Spark plugs (went from OEM to iridium NGK DCPR8EIX (6546))
4. Rear brake pads

After the service I choose to DELETE adaptation values with the 911 with the accelerator connected. I know it wasn't recommended for the changes I had done but I thought it wouldn't hurt. I thought that, worse case, it would take some time to get back to where I was.

After 2 weeks I took off the accelerator module and I re-deleted all adaptation values in hope that this was the source of my problems.

Symptoms:

The bike runs great and pulls happily when the throttle is not at 0%.
It also idles as it should when warming up, until the 3rd temperature bar lights up at the panel.
From the moment the 3rd temperature bar comes on, when I roll off the throttle, the bike sputters and almost stalls for 2-3 seconds then finds its pace. I also notice that the idle sits at about 1100rpm, not 1250rpm (when warming up it sits at the correct rpm).

I have taken everything apart once again and I can't find something done wrong on the service. The accelerator module has been removed, and will remain like that until the bike can gather enough new adaptation data, it idled worse when the module was on, general operation was smooth and as expected.

I am thinking about the idle actuator, could it be a bit worn out and the adaptation data had calibrated for the wear, and now without the data it produces the problem?

Next step will be to re-fit the old air filter, it wasn't too dusty, and I have blown it so I want to see if the air filter (+ no adaptation data) is causing the issue.

Could it be the spark plugs?

Can anyone think of solutions or tests I should do?

Sorry for the long post, I hope I gave enough info for you give your opinion.
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Old 03-24-2015, 09:52 AM   #2
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Did you recalibrate the idle air controller with the 911?
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Old 03-24-2015, 01:41 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by Reaver View Post
Did you recalibrate the idle air controller with the 911?
No, this is a recalibration of the actuator valve, right? I will do it on Thursday, tomorrow is a national holiday so I'll spend it with the kids..

By the way I put the OEM filter back on, same deal...
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Old 03-26-2015, 03:59 AM   #4
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Here is a video showing the issue. Turn the volume a bit up, it was a bit windy but you can hear the knocking sound it does for a couple of seconds when returning to idle. It starts to be noticeable at about the 1 minute mark..

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tserts screwed with this post 03-26-2015 at 04:13 AM
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Old 03-26-2015, 04:18 AM   #5
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I performed the actuator calibration as well, now all that is different from before the service are the 2 spark plugs, and the fact that all adaptation data has been wiped.

Next step is to install the recommended sparks (NGK DCPR 8 E) instead of the iridiums.. That is a cheap test so I will do that. Could it be a faulty spark? The coils seem to not be at fault, as they were working fine since before the service.
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Old 03-26-2015, 04:51 AM   #6
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Can't hurt to run some injector cleaner thru her. partial clogs will give bad idle scenarios.
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Old 03-26-2015, 09:29 AM   #7
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Update:

I changed sparks again, put the recommended long-lasting NGKs and the problem is still there... Re-checked everything, both physically and with the 911 and everything seems to be as it should...

The only thing that is left is the oil filter, which is not OEM. It is a bit shorter than the OEM, and I hope that, if it has reduced flow, it could starve the upper end for seconds from oil, resulting in the knocking sound I hear.. I will change it tomorrow.

If that doesn't fix it, I am out of ideas..
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Old 03-26-2015, 09:35 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Indy Unlimited View Post
Can't hurt to run some injector cleaner thru her. partial clogs will give bad idle scenarios.
Can you recommend any particular product? Preferably one that would be available across the pond... I have never used such products... If it can't hurt I will give it a try...
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Old 03-27-2015, 03:23 AM   #9
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OEM filter is fitted, and the problem persists.. I am out of ideas..

Could it be the idle air hoses having a crack I cannot see?
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Old 03-28-2015, 12:32 AM   #10
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did you open and clean the idle actuator?
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Old 03-28-2015, 01:05 AM   #11
tserts OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dpm View Post
did you open and clean the idle actuator?
If by clean you mean push the metal cylinder back and wipe the deposited debris from the rod and the piston, then yes. I didn't take it apart...
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Old 03-28-2015, 01:54 AM   #12
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This is today's video, it seems to be getting a bit better, but it might be wishful thinking on my part...

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Old 03-28-2015, 07:21 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tserts View Post
Can you recommend any particular product? Preferably one that would be available across the pond... I have never used such products... If it can't hurt I will give it a try...

See if you can find Chevron Techron. If that doesn't help, no other injector cleaner is going to.
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Old 03-29-2015, 04:20 AM   #14
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This side of the Pond, either a Lubro-Moly product or (if you have access, it's pretty much trade-only) Forte.
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Old 03-29-2015, 09:34 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tserts View Post
Can you recommend any particular product? Preferably one that would be available across the pond... I have never used such products... If it can't hurt I will give it a try...
You can try and locate some Sea Foam or any automotive fuel injector cleaner over the pond.
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