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Old 11-26-2013, 12:04 PM   #46
Sniperx OP
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My understanding was..."All the way to the bearing". I didn't beat on it like a gorilla, but you could feel it stop. I've got a 40 mile ride before I get home...things be ok till then?

I wondered since there was no shoulder, but I didn't find any other answer when I searched besides..."to the bearing". Or did they mean to the slave bearing?

So, I'll need a new seal since this one will get ruined on removal.

EDIT: Depth. I can use a set of digi-calipers to set the depth so a tool won't REALLY be necessary...just the numbers.
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Old 11-26-2013, 12:09 PM   #47
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Just got off the phone with my local bearing supplier. The seal is a whopping 4.50 each. I paid 20 at the stealer. Lesson learned there.....
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Old 11-26-2013, 02:33 PM   #48
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OK This is what you need. Mine is spun from a piece of PVC.




Here are the Dims, the .170 is critical



Here is a view of the inside of the 6 speed transmission and the seal in question. Note this the old style black seal.



Hope it all works for you.
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Old 11-26-2013, 02:33 PM   #49
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Just got off the phone with my local bearing supplier. The seal is a whopping 4.50 each. I paid 20 at the stealer. Lesson learned there.....
Make sure the seal is the updated one - it is brown in color.
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Old 11-26-2013, 04:20 PM   #50
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The difference is, the brown one is viton. I don't think it will matter in this case...viton is more for gasoline.

Also, I got the dimension...its 4.5mm. Straight from the dealers tool. The tool numbers are 234722 and 234723.
I'm going with your number though since I have a feeling he eyeballed it with a ruler.
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Old 11-26-2013, 04:23 PM   #51
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The difference is, the brown one is viton. I don't think it will matter in this case...viton is more for gasoline.
They had problems (mine own included) with the black ones. AMHIK
You are probably ok with the back one but I would not use the non viton in the front.
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Old 11-27-2013, 12:09 AM   #52
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I followed Steptoe's advice to seat the seal all the way to the input shaft rear bearing. No leak on mine that I'm aware of. Not sure why this is a problem as it only contacts the outer race. I don't recall seeing any oil return groove on the seal side of the bearing that would be blocked. Please explain why this gap is necessary. If it is then someone should correct the old thread.

Sniperx said: [I used a little bit of everything to get the seal out. My wood screws on hand were limited to what I could steal from my garage demolition. It kept pulling out, I was fitting it between the seal and the shaft.]

Maybe you nicked the shaft. Hope that is not the case. I drilled the outer metal portion of the seal and used a 3" sheet metal screw to which I attached the slide hammer. One yank and it came out with ease.
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Old 11-27-2013, 08:03 AM   #53
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Even if I DID mar one of the sealing surfaces....it would be in the stock location, not the deeper area where it is located now. I'VE found other owners of the same transmission complaining of leaking after a seal install also.

That being said....

Theres no stopping shoulder machined in the case, the engineers who designed the transmission saw fit to also make a special tool that seats the seal to a proper depth....there must be some thinking going on here.

Also, look at the picture GSAddict shows of the other side of the transmission. See that groove on top there? You can see that groove in the bore. Also notice, the seal won't be touching the race, but actually the shield (or balls themselves depending on bearing used).

When I'm done this time...I'm going to run the bike for a bit on the stand and see if any oil comes out of there.......don't need to do this again.
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Old 11-27-2013, 08:16 AM   #54
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An interesting thought....

I read on a K bike forum where he had seals installed to BMW spec and they leaked, but when he did them flush with the case there was no problem.

Ideas?
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Old 11-27-2013, 08:47 AM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sniperx View Post
An interesting thought....

I read on a K bike forum where he had seals installed to BMW spec and they leaked, but when he did them flush with the case there was no problem.

Ideas?
Could be wear on the shaft at the factory depth. I would consider a flush fit too.

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Old 11-27-2013, 09:18 AM   #56
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Could be wear on the shaft at the factory depth. I would consider a flush fit too.

Jim
I think I'll start with a flush fit, run it on the stand, check for leaks...leave it if nothing comes out.

Off topic: ANyone have a link describing the shortcut spline inspection and lubing method for an 1150gs? I have a snake-cam I can use if it helps any.
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Old 11-27-2013, 09:38 AM   #57
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My memory could be faulty but I thought that bearing drives in from the outside. If so then the inside face of the outer case of the seal contacts the bearing race. It can not contact the bearing balls. There is a plain ball bearing not a covered one.

How did you become aware of gear oil leaking in to the cavity? Unless you drilled a weep hole in the case or cut the gasket you wouldn't know. I'm still waiting for someone to experiment, as I suggested last year, with installing a barb fitting in a drilled weep hole and hooking that up to the emissions purge solenoid via a trap.
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Old 11-27-2013, 10:26 AM   #58
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My memory could be faulty but I thought that bearing drives in from the outside. If so then the inside face of the outer case of the seal contacts the bearing race. It can not contact the bearing balls. There is a plain ball bearing not a covered one.

How did you become aware of gear oil leaking in to the cavity? Unless you drilled a weep hole in the case or cut the gasket you wouldn't know. I'm still waiting for someone to experiment, as I suggested last year, with installing a barb fitting in a drilled weep hole and hooking that up to the emissions purge solenoid via a trap.
Look at Addict's picture. That is the engine side of the case. You can see the bearing race goes up against the shoulder just before the seal. Here you can see the shield or cage on the bearings in use.

I can see this from the slave hole. I thought it was another seal on the other side.

I clipped about 1/16th out of the gasket. Now it drips out nicely onto the catalytic converter making quite a stink.

Regarding your purge. WHy would you want to? Theres a small breather on top of the transmission already. Adding a vacuum to the case could introduce leaks (old VW head gaskets can leak if too much vac is fed to the case) and unless the breather is filtered, you'll pull dirty air into your gears. I'm losing about a table spoon after each run and an unknown amount during runs

PS: I think this was the GS gods invoking Karma on me because I didn't take pics the first time around...........
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Old 11-27-2013, 10:57 AM   #59
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Hey GS Addict,

How do you make something like that? Is it done on a lathe?

I'm not even sure what a lathe does, but I've heard the term before. I really need to get a job in a machine shop for awhile. Is that where you learn stuff like this?
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Old 11-27-2013, 11:29 AM   #60
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Yes, that is done on a lathe.

A lathe is a machine you put parts or materials in and it turns it around the center, usually laid out horizontally. A tool is then pushed or pulled across the surface or plunged into the material. This cuts it to shapes and size you are looking for.

This is a very loose description of a lathe.

I made one last night in our shop out of steel.
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