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Old 11-20-2013, 11:43 AM   #16
DirtyADV
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Removal of the clutch basket nut without special tools, since its stuck in gear you are good, just secure the rear wheel with a strap, stepping on the rear break also might help.

First time some muscle moster in Austria must have tighend that nut, had the bike laying on it side, secured rear wheel and a high gear.

Tried several impact tools, electric and air pressure but none of them helped me out, ended up with a very long pipe on the wrench and have to lay on the floor next to the bike and hold my feet against it to stop it spinning on the floor, sounded like a gun was fired and I was sure the wrench snapped but it was the nut coming undone.

Torqued it to spec with loctite after that and never had trouble getting it off ever since.

/Johan
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Old 11-20-2013, 06:31 PM   #17
Motomedic
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The big issue with the broken drum is not necessarily the broken pieces floating around in there, but the possibility of "going into two gears at once". If the gear is not positively held by the shift fork, it can float across the shaft and engage two gear pairs at once. What happens then is somewhat catastrophic depending on road speed, etc. think broken cases, locked back wheel, fun stuff like that.
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Old 11-20-2013, 08:46 PM   #18
crushing OP
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Was stuck in 4th gear. Thoughts?

Well, after shedding my bike of plastics, draining oil and coolant, and opening the clutch cover. Nothing was obviously wrong. Nothing was caught in the screens or magnetic plugs.

The SAC seem fine too.



Then I decided to do some fishing and hooked this fancy mental thing.

Can anyone verify if it's from the shifting drum? Argh. I don't know if I'm up for breaking down my engine. At least not tonight :)

Everyone - thanks again for all your help!

crushing screwed with this post 11-20-2013 at 08:52 PM
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Old 11-21-2013, 09:33 AM   #19
bajamcguide
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Sad to say, but it looks like part of the shift drum, a known weak link on the early 950. The drum has since been upgraded to be stronger in that area.
There are a few good threads about splitting the cases to replace the drum.

Sorry about the breakdown.
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Old 11-21-2013, 12:41 PM   #20
LocuL
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Sadly a perfect match.
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Old 11-21-2013, 03:11 PM   #21
dlrides
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Doesn't look good, sorry.
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Old 11-22-2013, 04:11 AM   #22
sstewart
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Shift drum

I was afraid of this. The new drum in noticeably different ,lot beefier in needed areas. I've never had this problem myself. MotoMedic replaced his in my shop last year. Good Luck.
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Old 11-22-2013, 01:40 PM   #23
crushing OP
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With the diagnosis of a busted shift drum, I've decided to go after it! Let the fun begin!
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Old 11-22-2013, 03:58 PM   #24
sstewart
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Drum

Get a list of tools that you need. I should have the important ones,check the push screw to see which one you need. I have part number 600.29.009.110. There are two different ones,one fine thread,one coarse.
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Old 11-23-2013, 09:26 AM   #25
kamanya
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Welcome to the club...



Check the shift drums bearing, I've found two to be notchy after going in there.
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Old 11-24-2013, 09:35 AM   #26
crushing OP
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Originally Posted by sstewart View Post
Get a list of tools that you need. I should have the important ones,check the push screw to see which one you need. I have part number 600.29.009.110. There are two different ones,one fine thread,one coarse.
Hi sstewart - I'm just starting to compile a list of tools and parts. Ill check on the threads for the push screw. Thanks!
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Old 11-24-2013, 09:38 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by kamanya View Post
Welcome to the club...



Check the shift drums bearing, I've found two to be notchy after going in there.
Thanks for the welcoming and tip, kamanya. Aside from the bearings (and fork rollers) anything else you would check on a 950 adv with 40k miles on the clock? It's going to be a trial by fire :)
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Old 11-24-2013, 11:19 AM   #28
kamanya
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Originally Posted by crushing View Post
Thanks for the welcoming and tip, kamanya. Aside from the bearings (and fork rollers) anything else you would check on a 950 adv with 40k miles on the clock? It's going to be a trial by fire :)
I wrote this for a guy who had to preform the same thing, So please forgive the detail;

Tools:

Workshop manual is excellent and very helpful. Follow their order for disassembly and assembly.
Sockets 6-20mm, 46mm – Crankshaft nut, 32mm – clutch hub nut and swing arm nut, 30mm – balancer shaft nut.
Spanners
Rubber mallet
Feeler gauges
Torque Wrench small – 5-30Nm Large – 20-200Nm
Impact wrench
Engine locking bolt – can easily make your own out of a M8mm 100mm bolt that you sharpen on a grinder.

Parts list. These are possible prices I would still have to ok the quote and it will be in UK pounds.

Some are absolutely necessary, some are optional or not a bad idea whilst you are in there. The shift drum might be damaged and rather need it and have it. Maybe he should change out his cam chains while he’s in there?

Necessary
Descriptor Part Number Part
Base gaskets; front 1 60030035000 CYLINDER-BASE GASKET FR 0,35MM $28.90
Base gaskets; rear 1 60030135000 CYLINDER-BASE GASKET RR 0,35MM $28.0
Case gasket 1 60030039100 ENGINE CASE GASKET 0,5MM 05 $13.97
Shift fork rollers 3 50334018100 SHIFTING ROLLER 6X8X5,2 $2.40
Generator gasket 1 60030040100 IGNIT.COVER GASK.MATRI.CS0,5MM $23.95
Clutch cover gaskets 1 60030025000 CLUT.COV. GASK. INSIDE KLI.SIL $16.89

To be safe
Shift Drum 1 60034012300 SHIFT ROLLER CPL. 06 $113.88
Shift Drum Bearing 1 625618050 BALL BEARING 61805 C3 $45.87


Suggested

Clutch basket cover gasket 1 60030027000 GASKET RING CLUTCH 2X3,1 VAMAC $15.13
Water pump gasket 1 60035053000 WATER-PUMP GASKET 03 $4.99
Oil pipe O rings 2 770090021 O-RING 9X2 VITON $0.27
Oil pipe O rings 2 770110021 O-RING 11X2 VITON
Gear position sensor seal 1 770275025 O-RING 27,5X2,5 NBR $0.35
Cam Chain 2 60036013000 TOOTH CHAIN 88 LINK 6,35PITCH $85.29


Taking it apart;

• Have this site on standby permanently – http://www.ktm950.info/
• Especially - http://www.ktm950.info/how/Orange%20Garage/Engine/Pyns%20Full%20950%20Overhaul/pyns_full_950_overhaul.html
• Use the shop manual, it is very good.
• Go buy a heap of A4 & A5 sized Ziploc bags. Every section that comes apart then get stuck in a bag and marked with a permanent marker.
• Get a pile of shop rags to keep things clean.
• Get assorted cable ties, they come in handy and are needed for the wiring once you get it back together again.
• Make your own engine locking bolt.
• Buy a few cans of brake cleaner spray, it cleans things up really well.
• Take A LOT of photo’s as you go. They make great reference tools when you’re trying to get it back together again. The wiring especially.
• Plug all engine holes as you open them, especially the carb ones.
• Remove the front struts and electrics and oil pipes before you drop the engine. The two rear engine bolts (one is the swing arm bolt) will hold the engine while you do this.
• Clean the engine well before you open it.
• If you are using an impact wrench, it’s possible to remove the whole clutch basket and plates once you get the clutch plate bolts loose.
• Be very careful of washers that sit behind/in-front of the various cogs, they are easy to miss and slip off once you put the part down and then you’ll wonder where they came from.
• The really big nut on the right hand side of the crank shaft holding the timing wheel is a reverse thread.
• The 2 woodruff keys on the balancer shaft are a bastard to get out. Use a small hammer and screw driver to gently tap them out. Be careful that they don’t disappear on you.
• Take note of the direction that the cam chains run so that you put them back in the same direction and don’t get them swapped around.
• Don’t force anything, especially around the pistons and cylinders.
• The bottle opener in your tool kit is useful for the one headnut.
• Use rubber bands to keep the piston rods away from the cases.
• Throw away the base gaskets as you take the pots off. It is easy to miss the gasket as it gets stuck to the underside of the barrel and then when you reassemble you now have two gaskets in there. (ask me how I know this)
• Watch for the springs that sit in the ends of the shift fork guides.
• Carefully check the shift drum, selector spokes and selector rod.
• There is a seal on the end of oil rail that sprays the gears, keep an eye on it.
• Clean all gasket surfaces. Use non-metal pot scourers, no screw drivers or steel wool.

Putting it back together again.

• Go slow, there is nothing to be gained from getting clever.
• Don’t drink and drive spanners
• Work methodically and neatly.
• Put a dab of grease on the fiddly bits to keep them in place as you assemble.
• Use a rubber mallet to gently tap the cases together, don’t force anything.
• Make sure the gears work freely by temporarily attaching the gear selector and working the gears whilst turning the counter shaft.
• Use a torque wrench for everything.
• Make sure the cam chain tensioners are in before you set the timing.
• Follow the marks on the timing ring, the instructions in the manual and the marks on the cams to set the timing. It’s not difficult. Rear pot first.
• Once the pots are on, use a bit of sealant in the V to block shit getting in and causing corrosion and subsequent leakage.
• Check tolerances in the shims before you put the engine back in the frame, it’s easier.
• Hold your breath when you fire it up for the first time.


Good luck!
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Old 11-24-2013, 05:04 PM   #29
Motomedic
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Great post Kamanya.

Only real thing I'd add is I'm more in favor of buying the complete gasket kit. That way, you've got everything in one place, and if you need a gasket you didn't plan on, well, there ya go.
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Old 11-24-2013, 05:53 PM   #30
Katoom72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LocuL View Post
...and this is how it looked when i dropped the oil.


I ran another good 4-5000km after this just without the 6th.
That sound reminds me of my 450sx, 3rd gear went when going WFO towards a jump. Felt like 990 low RPM EFI with a horrible sound.
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