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Old 05-16-2015, 10:13 AM   #1
R-dubb OP
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Location: San Francisco
Oddometer: 4,969
New Bike Prep List

With all those new 1290's coming out, what better time. . The list works equally well on all the variants. As solid suggestions come in, I'll update this post. The idea is not to be a farkle justification thread or even to spend any money after just dropping a wad on the new digs. It's a list of stuff that new owners may consider to prep the new ride for reliability and long term pleasure. This is not a first service list, but could easily become part of that effort for those so inclined.
  1. Setup favorites menu and feature baselines to save time when you can't figure it out later.
  2. Check torque on chassis bolts and apply Loctite at those prone to loosen. Details to follow.
  3. Loosen fork and axle pinch bolts and retorque after checking alignment by flexing front end.
  4. Grease or otherwise protect from corrosion exposed ball joints at damper, rear brake and elsewhere as indicated.
  5. Check all fluid levels just because. Consider changing brake fluid following initial break in if like coffee.
  6. Removing front plastic and tank. Pay close attention to tabs and fastener positions and length. Consider making a diagram or cheat sheat to assist with reassembly. Sequence critical. I always clean and apply a little tune-up grease to fuel line quick connect to make sure dirt or dry o-ring does not impede reassembly. Verify that right and left petcocks are open to allow fuel to balance.
  7. Check head bearing for snugness after a few rides or when doing air box. You can do this with tank on, but safer while removed. Flat 27mm spanner in tool kit fits stem bolt without removing bars. I use a short drill bit backwards in the collar nut to preload bearing finger tight only taking up slack and developing the correct preload. Check to make sure bar movement is tight but no notchiness allowed. Slack may come back every so often until the bearings totally seat over time.
  8. Seal air box meticulously as a minimum (tape, foam gasket, or RTV) and consider prefilter sox or aftermarket product if riding in dusty conditions.
  9. Inspect cables and wires for potential rubbing and protect or refasten as required. Rear shock and O2 cable rub. Consider foam strips and/or zip ties anywhere cables and wires have potential for wear. Also worthy is using anti-seize on the body fasteners to inhibit corrosion.
  10. Remove counter sprocket cover. Inspect sprocket lock washer. Suggest removing clutch spindle oil jet cover and reinstall with antiseize to make future service easy. Bits from initial run in can potentially block jet. Unscrew the jet, check for blockage and reinstall just snug. These parts should be not too tight to prevent damage on future service. Access is easier if clutch slave is also taken off to access jet cap with an Allen. If tank is off you can also reach this fastener with a very long socket extension or three.
  11. Slot rubber swing arm chain guard with Dremmel tool to enable wear check thus preventing chain from sawing into swing arm. Consider blue Loctite at rubber guard fasteners.
  12. Put copper based anti-seize on chain adjuster bolts (not axle bolts). Clean and lube axles whenever removed, I use heavy gear oil, others prefer light grease. While you're at it, an excellent suggestion has been made to use the same copper based slippery stuff on the exhaust clamps and header nuts. If you live in a damp-ish corner of the globe, this can be real stud saver.
  13. Ring wheel spokes to assess tightness. Adjust loose spokes no more than half turn with out spreading.

What else?

Try to keep the thread tidy by not requoting long posts and pictures. I'll add additional bullets or make modifications as stuff gets vetted by the group and suggestions are made. Remember, this is not about farkles.

Additional low cost preventative improvements and comments are very welcome to be posted.


R-dubb screwed with this post 05-26-2015 at 03:06 PM Reason: Use more Anti-seize!
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Old 05-17-2015, 01:43 PM   #2
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I was hoping someone would start this thread. I don't have anything to add to it but will be referring to it often. What a freeloader I am!
2015 1290SA (delivered 5-20-15)
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Old 05-17-2015, 07:26 PM   #3
Joined: Apr 2010
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Application of copper based anti-seize to chain adjustment bolts
Lube axel shaft each and every time wheel removed
Torque wheel spokes at every tire change (I check more often than that) and for sure upon delivery new. If you get more than about 1/2 a turn on a spoke move to the next one and so on. You can warp a wheel if not done correctly.
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Old 05-26-2015, 11:32 AM   #4
R-dubb OP
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Location: San Francisco
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I added above suggestions and a reminder to check those fuel balance petcocks, dammit. The shop guys have been known to leave them closed once in a great while...
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Old 05-27-2015, 08:15 AM   #5
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Joined: Aug 2004
Location: SF, CA
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When can a bring my bike over for said checks/adjustments?!
'15 KTM 1190S
'10 KTM 990SMR
'08 KTM 690E
'08 CBR 1000RR (Track)
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