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Old 07-13-2014, 04:09 AM   #2941
PineyMountainRacing
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Location: SW Florida / Western NC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kag View Post
So....ordered a KTM bash plate and had the dealer put it on over in Topeka about 6k miles ago or so. When I returned from my 9 state trip i went to change the oil and could not get one of the bottom SS bolts out. The bolts supplied are not high grade and they did not use anti-seize on the threads, the head can easily strip. Well one did. All the bolts were hard getting out. I was able to wiggle the plate around to get the oil changed. So when I stripped the bike down I swore I was going to get that plate off because I want to paint it also. I could of taken it back to them but its 65 miles and then would have to wait.

Tonight I managed to get the plate off the bike but not off the mount bracket. I heated it, froze it, used Kroil oil on it. Could not get it to budge....mainly because the stripped head and nothing to grab on to. So I improvised.....got the bolt out. Luckily I have several sets of this socket type hex wrenches. I tack welded the socket onto the bolt and then heated the area up and out it came. I plan to mod the plate to be able to do oil changes with out taking it off. The plate will be fine after I hit with an angle grinder wire wheel.

Use anti-seize on the threads.

G]
Had the bike on the lift yesterday and decided I'd check the skid plate bolts. I had installed it 1 month and about 1500 miles ago, no water crossings and minimal rain riding. I had used thread locker on all the bolts. The small forward ones came right out, I added more thread locker. But the 6 rear bolts were all starting to corrode where the head contacts the aluminum. Threads were clean. It's like they are a lower grade stainless. Anyway, cleaned them all up and reinstalled with anti-seize.
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Old 07-13-2014, 07:10 AM   #2942
alongat
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Galvanic corrosion - steel up against aluminum (and/or contact between two different metals of certain properties and environmental elements such as water, sun, salt, etc...)...not easy to deal with. You use thread lock to keep them tight but you also want to use anti-sieze to prevent seizing from this galvanic corrosion. Not sure what the answer is other than to keep on eye on them as you are doing from time to time...


Quote:
Originally Posted by PineyMountainRacing View Post
Had the bike on the lift yesterday and decided I'd check the skid plate bolts. I had installed it 1 month and about 1500 miles ago, no water crossings and minimal rain riding. I had used thread locker on all the bolts. The small forward ones came right out, I added more thread locker. But the 6 rear bolts were all starting to corrode where the head contacts the aluminum. Threads were clean. It's like they are a lower grade stainless. Anyway, cleaned them all up and reinstalled with anti-seize.
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KTM 1190 ADV, KTM 530 EXC
Gone: Ducati 999R, KTM 530EXC, KTM 990ADV-R, KTM 950ADV, KTM 690, KTM 640ADV, kTM RC8R, Ducati 996S, Yamaha R1
And how can this be? For he is the Kwisatz Haderach!
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Old 07-13-2014, 09:24 AM   #2943
fifthcircle
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Originally Posted by numbutt View Post
I got the Puig screen recently and have yet to fully test it but so far I am a bit disappointed as there seems to be a fair amount of turbulence behind it. I thought it was only a little better than the standard ''R '' screen which for its size works reasonably.
In time I will machine up some spacers for the Puig as I suspect it mounts too close to the headlight and more air needs to enter here to nullify a low pressure [creates turbulence ] behind the screen. A bigger screen is not always better.!!
Same experience!
I emailed PUIG and had them send me more spacers. Two on each bottom screw, and none on the top seems better. Still not perfect!

The same spacers with the R screen is great, but for long distance I need more protection.
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Old 07-13-2014, 10:43 AM   #2944
CHRIS_D
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alongat View Post
Galvanic corrosion - steel up against aluminum (and/or contact between two different metals of certain properties and environmental elements such as water, sun, salt, etc...)...not easy to deal with. You use thread lock to keep them tight but you also want to use anti-sieze to prevent seizing from this galvanic corrosion. Not sure what the answer is other than to keep on eye on them as you are doing from time to time...
I believe the other main problem is the back 6 screw are right next to the exhaust. The extreme heating and cooling of the metals is not helping with this situation. I checked mine yesterday and luckily they were all easy to remove. I originally used loc-tite, however when I replaced them this time I put a dab of anti-seize on each screw.
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Old 07-13-2014, 10:52 AM   #2945
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I think the 6 back screws are a different SS composition. It's not that different of an environment between the 2.
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Old 07-13-2014, 11:08 AM   #2946
sideup
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Windscreens

Quote:
Originally Posted by fifthcircle View Post
Same experience!
I emailed PUIG and had them send me more spacers. Two on each bottom screw, and none on the top seems better. Still not perfect!

The same spacers with the R screen is great, but for long distance I need more protection.
Having lived with head pounding low frequency tubulance of 990's it appears even with a clean sheet of paper KTM could not solve this problem.
I took a short ride on a friends 2014 GS 1200 yesterday and the angle was perfect to direct the air up and over the rider. Yes the GS has it's own issues but at least they figured the windscreen out years ago.
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Old 07-13-2014, 01:26 PM   #2947
kag
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fifthcircle View Post
Same experience!
I emailed PUIG and had them send me more spacers. Two on each bottom screw, and none on the top seems better. Still not perfect!

The same spacers with the R screen is great, but for long distance I need more protection.
You guys do as you see fit but when you are tired of screwing around with it.......Parabellum, just sayin....but I am a function over form type



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Old 07-13-2014, 04:48 PM   #2948
alongat
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I'm sure it works really well and honestly, there's nothing wrong with having a plexiglass surfboard strapped onto the front of your bike :)

Reminds me of these (you know I'm just messing with you, right?):






Quote:
Originally Posted by kag View Post
You guys do as you see fit but when you are tired of screwing around with it.......Parabellum, just sayin....but I am a function over form type



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KTM 1190 ADV, KTM 530 EXC
Gone: Ducati 999R, KTM 530EXC, KTM 990ADV-R, KTM 950ADV, KTM 690, KTM 640ADV, kTM RC8R, Ducati 996S, Yamaha R1
And how can this be? For he is the Kwisatz Haderach!
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Old 07-13-2014, 06:17 PM   #2949
kag
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Its all good but you seriously think that Puig is Not hideous. I have always thought they got their design inspiration from this

oh well.....carry on :)



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Old 07-13-2014, 06:19 PM   #2950
alongat
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LMAO - too funny



Quote:
Originally Posted by kag View Post
Its all good but you seriously think that Puig is Not hideous. I have always thought they got their design inspiration from this


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Toronto, Canada
KTM 1190 ADV, KTM 530 EXC
Gone: Ducati 999R, KTM 530EXC, KTM 990ADV-R, KTM 950ADV, KTM 690, KTM 640ADV, kTM RC8R, Ducati 996S, Yamaha R1
And how can this be? For he is the Kwisatz Haderach!
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Old 07-13-2014, 07:20 PM   #2951
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Old 07-13-2014, 07:31 PM   #2952
alongat
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There's a similar thing on one of the Ducati forums years ago relating to the Ducati Desmosedici and Admiral Ackbar from Star Wars:



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Toronto, Canada
KTM 1190 ADV, KTM 530 EXC
Gone: Ducati 999R, KTM 530EXC, KTM 990ADV-R, KTM 950ADV, KTM 690, KTM 640ADV, kTM RC8R, Ducati 996S, Yamaha R1
And how can this be? For he is the Kwisatz Haderach!
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Old 07-13-2014, 08:46 PM   #2953
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I tried removing my KTM skid plate to change oil and had the same experience, all screws moved except one. I decided on discretion. Still waiting on that oil change.
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Old 07-13-2014, 09:03 PM   #2954
PineyMountainRacing
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ACC1 and ACC2 acting differently with 2-way radio?

I decided to run 2 wires off the ACC2 (switched) lead underneath the panel, and used them to power two separate 12v receptacles, one for my 60Cx and the other for a Midland handheld CB. The CB is hard wired into a Sena SR10 which will BT the audio to my headset. What's happening is that when I key the mic (PTT) switch, about every other time the power is interrupted to the CB, as well as the GPS. So, I key the mic once and the GPS shuts off (didn't put any AA's in it this morning) and the CB screen goes blank. I let up on the PTT and the CB screen reappears (the GPS won't turn back on unless I manually turn it on, if I had put batteries in it, it would stay on during the power interruption). Then I push the PTT again, and the CB screen shows I'm transmitting like normal. Then I push it again and the CB screen goes dead until I let up on the PTT. Bike can be running or shut off, but key is "on."

What's odd is that if I plug the CB into the factory 12v receptacle, the CB functions normally. IIRC, the factory receptacle feeds off of ACC1. So, all I have to do is rewire the CB to ACC1 and I'm good to go but I don't understand why ACC2 is acting this way. Am I drawing too much power for the circuit when I try to transmit, but instead of blowing a fuse, it pops a breaker that resets? Ive never run across anything similar before. I don't have an elec digram, and even if I did I probably wouldn't be able to make much sense of it. I plan to put a voltmeter on the circuit and see what happens when I key the mic, I suspect voltage is dropping enough to shut the GPS off, and momentarily cause the CB to "go to sleep." Is there a difference in 1 and 2, besides ACC2 being switched?
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Old 07-13-2014, 09:16 PM   #2955
kag
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1A vs 10A max draw. Transmitting takes power, I think the draw is too much so one of the units shuts down unit there is enough power to run. I say just hard wire it in to the battery with inline fuse, you could still tie it in to where the key open and closes the circuit.

JMO....
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