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Old 02-23-2014, 07:13 PM   #811
PatSmith
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Joined: Aug 2011
Location: Sacramento
Oddometer: 388
Quote:
Originally Posted by Badge View Post
Wow!
Just road back from the dealer (about 40 miles). This bike is amazing, wonderful, powerful, balanced, and a blast to ride. And at the same time, somehow a little strange. I can't quite describe why, but the impression riding this bike was a little like an arcade game. Not necessarily bad, but like nothing else I've ever ridden. Part of it seemed to be the throttle by wire, as someone else posted about earlier. The throttle is silky smooth, and the bike is powerful, but the two seem like there is a distance between them. Like listening to a CD rather than a live performance in a bar. And one does not feel the weight of the bike, which is a good thing, but added to the slightly unreal quality of the experience. I felt a like I was watching my ride on a screen.
Don't get me wrong. I was grinning and saying "wow" to myself the whole way home. The power, ride quality, handling, are all amazing. I can't wait to get it broken in an take it to some twisties.
One niggle: When is Sargent going to make a seat for this bike?! The XR650L I rode to the dealership and traded in was more comfortable. I bought this bike for long distances, and my but started to feel sore before I got home. (Small price to pay for such a great machine, but I suspect it will bug me more and more as time goes on.)
Agreed, the seat is terrible along with the windscreen. I am tempted to remove the windscreen and see what it feels like. I'll get some padding added to the seat and see if that helps.
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Old 02-23-2014, 07:24 PM   #812
PatSmith
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R windscreen height

Could someone measure the height of the R screen and post the measurement?
Thank you in advance
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Old 02-23-2014, 07:31 PM   #813
Badge
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Originally Posted by PatSmith View Post
Agreed, the seat is terrible along with the windscreen. I am tempted to remove the windscreen and see what it feels like. I'll get some padding added to the seat and see if that helps.
None of my other bikes have had a windscreen, so I don't know what's normal, but I found the wind off the screen to be really loud. Had it on lowest setting. Wind hit me about the chin. Not bothersome, but the noise was annoying. Are windscreens always loud?
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Old 02-23-2014, 07:37 PM   #814
PatSmith
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Badge View Post
None of my other bikes have had a windscreen, so I don't know what's normal, but I found the wind off the screen to be really loud. Had it on lowest setting. Wind hit me about the chin. Not bothersome, but the noise was annoying. Are windscreens always loud?
No not always. Three other touring bikes had good windscreens that create a nice pocket of quite air for the rider.
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Old 02-23-2014, 09:04 PM   #815
Enigmagic
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Location: Palo Alto, California
Oddometer: 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by Badge View Post
Brought mine home yesterday. There is a gray warning label in the middle of the gas tank "Warning. Read the owners manual before..." in several languages.
Any suggestions on how to remove it without damaging the plastic gas tank?
The sticker on mine peeled off pretty easy with my fingernails...
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Old 02-23-2014, 09:22 PM   #816
andrewrt
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Joined: Feb 2014
Location: Port Moody, BC, Canada
Oddometer: 14
Awesome

Heated seat and heated grips make riding in January a lot more bare able.
Got the APO exhaust, and Touratech carriers. Went off road at McNutt Maple Ridge to get a bit of dirt on her, will get knobbies installed for more aggressive stuff.
Power is amazing and the bike feels so light.
I cannot wait for the weather to warm up a bit more.
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Old 02-23-2014, 09:26 PM   #817
andrewrt
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Windshield

Definitely getting the larger windshield for long trips.

Heated seat comes in two parts and is way more comfy than the one piece.
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Old 02-23-2014, 10:30 PM   #818
IgorBorisenko
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Joined: Jan 2014
Location: Moscow
Oddometer: 46
Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewrt View Post
Definitely getting the larger windshield for long trips.

Heated seat comes in two parts and is way more comfy than the one piece.
Wonder if anybody has aftermarket screen experience.
Was looking at the Puig one, but the only review on Amazon is bad. The guy said it wobbles. Any ideas?
http://www.puigusa.com/tuning-bikes/.../f1-r19-m3559/
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Old 02-24-2014, 06:02 AM   #819
dwj - Donnie
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Joined: Apr 2006
Location: Traveling on the Moto or Escuitla, Chiapas, Mexico
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Originally Posted by Chuckracer View Post
Congratulations! It now looks like a KLR!
I thought it looked like a V-Strom or what ever they call them, but to each his own.
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Old 02-24-2014, 07:28 AM   #820
Tjeu
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Location: Ghent
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kag View Post
So repainted. New pegs, new LEDs, new headlight bulbs (helped vs stock), headlight guard (missing parts so not fully installed, heated grips, mirror extenders, installed electrical quick connectors, grip puppys, pulled the cannister and rerouted hoses.

Now need to get the cases painted to match and get me some TKC80s











It's true that is doesn't look like a new expensive bike anymore. Dunno if that is the reason, but i like it! I like it a lot!

Should be even better if you put the 'KTM 1190' logo back on the tank. Just the 'KTM 1190' from the grey one, leave the orange 'adventure' part out. That would really bring it from shed made finish to nice finish.
Oh, and a wings shorty. The akra is a pain for the eye.
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Old 02-24-2014, 09:05 AM   #821
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Location: San Antonio, Texas
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My Cyclops LED install on 1190R

I installed a pair of Long Range Optimus LED Aux (round) lights this weekend.

I had a pair of Rigid Dualy's on my 990 and moved them (old 990 harness I had made worked ok), but didn't like the fact that I couldn't get them mounted level on the crash bars because of their uneven un-symmetric nature. So I decided to get round bezel LEDs and move the rigid lights to my 690.

First step is to mount the lights.



I bought the Cyclops bar mounts and had to do extra shimming to fit the KTM crash bars.



I bought the harness with the Skene dimmer (no switch) as I planned to use the high beam switch to control the the lights at max brightness with high beam on and single (programmable) level with low beam. The harness had to be cut down a bit as I initially planned to use the switched ACC2 circuit to power the lights.



I tapped the high beam wire (blue wire) behind the head light connector and did a test fitting to see if there was room behind the head light for all the components and wire harness.



I noticed that there was an opening in the lower head light mounts for the lower portion of the LED harness to pass from inside the head light enclosure to behind the surface body plastic. The length of the lower portion of the harness was a perfect match for the crash bar mounting. You can see the ACC2 connectors in the right of this photo (brown is ground).



You can feed the wire harness through a hidden passage by pulling the plastic out a bit.



Routing the harness between the tank and the inner plastic.



I used spade connectors (female at signal source) to make the harness totally plug-in (with the exception of the tap of the high beam wire). I planned to power the lights and Skene dimmer with the ACC2 power (10 amp) Red LED power wire, Skene Yellow and Red wires, but couldn't get that to work. Darryl suggested that I bring the LED power and Ground from the battery, so a second harness was built to do that. Don't know why the first setup didn't work especially since the Rigid Dualy lights worked fine (with a separate switch) using the ACC2 power and ground. Might be something with the way KTM CAN bus system powers up the ACC2 circuit which the Skene didn't like when all the Skene Yellow, Red, and LED power were all connected to the same power source.



The final mounting of the Skene, fuse, harness. I changed the harness fuse to 5 amps from 30 since I didn't want to weld anything with an inadvertent short. The leds are 10 watt and the Skene draws .o1 amp, so 5 is enough.



Plastic back on. Haven't ridden with the LEDs yet (my seat is at James Renazco's place getting the front cut-out removed and other changes).



Detail of plastic covering the wiring harness.

Overall I like the lights and features but the installation was more work than I anticipated because I had to remove the tank to install the LED power harness from the battery. I expect to use 50% dimming with the low beams but that is easily changed in 10% increments.

EDIT:

I've had questions for additional explanation of my wiring setup for this installation, so I'm adding some additional comments.

I prefer to use my pictures to explain how I used 6mm (1/4") spade connectors in the wiring harness I built. The connectors provided in the Skene dimmer kit are not, in my opinion, as reliable as the automotive spade connecters I used because they rely on cutting through the insulation of wires without cutting the wire itself. My harness only uses one such connector (but a different style) to attach a wire to the blue wire (high beam signal) just behind the head light connector. The attached wire is red, as is the attaching connector (seen above the headlight connector) and has a 6mm female spade connector. The convention I use (which is the same as used by KTM on the ACC1 and ACC2 connectors) is that signal sources have female connectors.



You can also see the ACC2 connection female connectors (brown is ground, the other is switched 12 volt power)

I didn't photograph the final harness, but the following picture is almost final. I will explain the changes.



The Skene dimmer contains an electronic relay for switching on a circuit (LEDs in this case) as well as circuitry to do PWM of the power to provide dimming of the LEDs. In the picture, notice that the two blue wires from the Skene. They plug into the two black wires coming from the LEDs. Since they are a ground source (the Skene relay switches ground), they have female connectors. The next white wire is the high beam input to the Skene. It plugs into the female connector of the red wire (attached to the blue high beam wire) in the first picture. The white wire has a male connector.

Next, the two black wires from the Skene are both attached to a male connector. This connector is plugged into the ground wire of a second simple harness which I do not have a picture of. That shouldn't be a problem because it is just a pair of wires (I used red for 12 volt, black for ground) which attach to the battery terminals. Since this harness provides power and ground sources, they have female connectors. The two black wires from the Skene connector plug into the ground wire from the battery.

Now I explain how the harness in the second picture differs from the final harness I used. Notice that the one remaining connector has the red power wire going to the LEDs and the red and yellow wires from the Skene crimped together. This has been separated into two male connectors. First, the red wire going to the LEDs has its own male connector which plugs into the red 12 volt wire coming from the battery. The remaining two wires from the Skene are crimped in a male connector which is plugged into the 12 volt ACC2 connector behind the head light. This provides power to the Skene dimmer itself and sets the yellow programming wire to +12 which is initially programmed to be 50% dimming (but can be easily changed to any other value in 10% increments following the Skene instructions). Attaching the red Skene wire to ACC2 insures that the Skene will not have a parasitic draw on the battery when the ignition is off. Also, the lights will be turned off when the ignition is turned off.

The only place where my setup touches the KTM wiring is the red wire attached to the blue high beam wire. If you use the connectors provided with the Skene kit there will be several more such connections. The way I have done this will not affect the US warranty. I doubt that it would in your locale either.
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DirtJack screwed with this post 03-03-2014 at 06:41 AM Reason: Additional explanation
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Old 02-24-2014, 09:46 AM   #822
Deacon66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motomuppet View Post
I did the reset as described below, worked on my 2014 adv r?. I spoke to the dealer and his mechanic and was told that several of the bikes sold before 2014 ny have been in with a unscheduled service light that needed resetting. They reckon it was the change of the year messing with the bikes brain.
  • hold the up and down buttons and turn on the ignition
  • continue to hold the up and down buttons until the display cycles through all the menus
  • continue to hold the up and down buttons when the setting menu is reached
  • after a few seconds the settings menu will change to allow you to choose the kms and months until next service.
  • You can now let go of the up and down buttons
  • Use the "set" button to increase the numbers. Keep going and the kms and months will cycle back around to 0 if you go past your choice.
I am in North America and this process worked for me. Thanks.
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Old 02-24-2014, 10:41 AM   #823
trinitydirt
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Location: COLORADO, USA
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The bike is SUPER QUIET with the windshield off..... But it looks like crap with out it. Im going to trim about two inches off the R version and see if it quiets down
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Old 02-24-2014, 10:47 AM   #824
Nowwhat
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Dirt Jack....

Can't wait to see the Renazco....
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Old 02-24-2014, 10:57 AM   #825
DirtJack
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Location: San Antonio, Texas
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Originally Posted by Nowwhat View Post
Dirt Jack....

Can't wait to see the Renazco....
Likewise. Should look something like this.
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