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Old 12-07-2013, 10:03 PM   #16
bastchild OP
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Day 9 Guadalajara 0 miles

We booked another night at the hotel before leaving in the morning for Carmen Motors, one of two BMW dealers in town. Their address didn’t work in our GPS and the lady on the phone told us a cross street but then to ask directions when we got there. About one hundred u-turns later, we ended up there. It is on av patria across from Walmart megaplex. It can be found at these GPS coordinates: N20.70587 x W103.41293 or search for these coordinates in Google Maps: +20° 42' 21.132",-103° 24' 46.548
Carmen Motors

Carmen Motors

You can get a free latte while you wait! In fact they have a snack bar there.
Carmen Motors

At Carmen, the mechanic inspected the bike and found a bulging radiator hose on the right side and indicated that was the source of the leak. I asked them to replace my shocks with the Hyperpro suspension I had brought (man, those are heavy!) and replace the water pump. After 20 minutes the receptionist came back to tell me they didn’t have the hose today but could get it Monday. Today was Friday. What to do? We decided to leave the bike there and be backpackers for a few days. They asked if we needed a taxi. We took the bus. The bus stop is just right outside their door. Number 25 came immediately, and that, and 6 pesos each, was what we needed to take us to the metro station on Camacho, where we took the metro 3 stops down to Juarez, our stop.
To make a day of it, we walked around Guadalajara.
English pasties

Taste as good and flaky as the real thing.
English pasties

Guadalajara

Spicy fruit

The wife loves the chili lime salt flavor on fruit.
Spicy fruit

Guadalajara

Guadalajara

Guadalajara

We stopped by the IYHA hostel downtown, which was empty but they had no private rooms available. There was a demonstration going on so the riot police were out in full force, and not so subtle photogs identifying the main agitators. Police state.
motorbike cop bikes

Riot police

Riot police

We had some food. We found a large mercado for tacos (Mercado Corona).
Mercado corona

Mercado corona

Mercado corona
cactus fruit?

Mercado corona

cute chihuahuas

cute chihuahuas

honda wave

We chose three busy taco counters and had samples at each. This place was 3 people deep to the counter.
tacos taste challenge

tortilla machine

Raw pastor meat
Mercado corona

An hour later a nice cooked layer
looks better now!

not horchata?

I liked these the best. They reminded me of Tijuana tacos. They were 2 for 13 pesos
tacos

this guy is fast

These had the best texture with the onions. 6 for 24 pesos
more tacos

These were next door with pig snouts under glass. They were a big fattier than I like but still 6 for 24 pesos.
tacos

Another lifan
battle scooter!

I like the headlamps
battle scooter!

There is a larger mercado (Libertad) which we will visit at a later time. We will be in an out of Guadalajara as we had booked a flight back home in a week. The wife bought a hat to cover her helmet hair.
The plan now is to hit the beach and leave some gear at the hotel.
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Old 12-08-2013, 06:43 AM   #17
Rutabaga
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Thanks for the great read. And pics. The ride and fly concept adapted to your style and needs. Looking forward to the continuation of the trip.
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Old 12-08-2013, 07:36 AM   #18
bastchild OP
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Originally Posted by Rutabaga View Post
Thanks for the great read. And pics. The ride and fly concept adapted to your style and needs. Looking forward to the continuation of the trip.
thanks. we'll see how it pans out. we are trying to make it work. it has been too easy to delay the trip and before you know it, it never happens.
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Old 12-08-2013, 10:28 AM   #19
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Great read, cool views, even though I couldn't stomach some of that food!
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Old 12-08-2013, 10:55 AM   #20
T
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You take good trip pictures....
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Old 12-09-2013, 04:08 PM   #21
bastchild OP
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Originally Posted by xxguitarist View Post
Great read, cool views, even though I couldn't stomach some of that food!
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You take good trip pictures....
thanks! the photos are not nearly as good we would have liked but we appreciate the comments! the food has been hit and miss. we had some good food last night. we find the street food far more satisfying than the restaurant food. and only had stomach troubles yesterday from restaurant food. (knock on wood)
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Old 12-09-2013, 04:16 PM   #22
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day 10 Guadalajara to Barra de Navidad

day 10 guad to barra de navidad

We checked out of the hotel and asked to keep our helmets, riding gear, and a pelican case with them. They wanted us to book a room in advance, so we booked a night in 4 days, which would be the night before flying out. We went down to the metro took it one stop to 16 september avenue and grabbed the first bus to central nueva, the new bus station. The new bus station looks like an airport. Actually, it looks nicer than our airport.
Central Nueva
Central Nueva
But, like an airport the price of food and drink are about double. Well, maybe not that bad. This cost 38 pesos, but the bottle of water was 22 pesos and should cost 11 pesos at the Oxxo.
ham and eggs 38 pesos

I went to a couple different counters to inquire the bus schedules and found one leaving in an hour and would get to Barra de Navidad in 4.5 hours. We had some breakfast and bought some water, but didn't have to because the first class buses come with a bag of refreshments: your choice of beverage (juice, soda or water) a breakfast bar and potato chips.
Central Nueva

The bus was very nice with even a door separating the rest of the cabin from the driver, like a plane. Someone wands you down and briefly looks inside our carryon luggage. They can store your luggage underneath and give you a receipt for it, so it is not a free-for-all at various stops where anyone can accidentally grab your luggage. They played a few movies on the way down. They had free wifi at the central nueva station and at the bus station in Autlan where we picked up more passengers. You got to choose your seats. Not bad for 359 pesos a ticket.
The bus ride was through a mountainous region and it made me pretty car sick. I fell asleep for a bit when it got really bad. At one point the movie "Extremely loud, incredible close" was playing which made me even more annoyed. I imagine the road is like the Espinoza del Diablo from Durango to Mazatlan. If so, I do not recommend it on a bus. I am not looking forward to the ride back to Guadalajara.
The bus let us out at Melaque where it was sunny and hot. It is a dusty little town from the bus depot and we waited a few minutes for the local bus to pick us up to go to Barra de Navidad. These two towns are only three miles apart, on either end of the Bahia de Navidad. Six pesos later, we got off in Barra and went looking for the hotel Alondra. I had tried to book a room from the bus station in Autlan but we pulled away before I received confirmation, so I asked to use the wifi at the hotel. I can't believe the deskclerk let me! The hotel has a small hotel across the street on the beach with an infinity pool. We wanted to stay there and it was a bit more expensive at $71. I booked two nights and showed the booking confirmation with to the desk clerk, and the total was $168 paid through visa. He said, the price would be $199 and I needed to pay the rest. I told him it was paid for already, and not wanting to get into an argument, I asked him to check his email. As it turns out the booking I made earlier at the bus station did go through so I cancelled the earlier one (which was for the main tower, not the beachside hotel).
Alondra Hotel Casa
When you walk by the Hotel Alondra Casa, you see the infinity pool and the bay. Such a great marketing strategy. The beach is small and skinny but the water is perfect. The pool water is pretty cold. Our room was poolside and you could see the bay from our bed. The room has a sliding glass door. There is free wifi and a/c and ceiling fan and hot water. The main building has underground parking. There is a rooftop bar at the main building with happy hour. Not a bad place to stay and wait for stuff to get done on our bike.
Alondra Hotel Casa
Alondra Hotel Casa
Alondra Hotel Casa
Alondra Hotel Casa
Alondra Hotel Casa
Alondra Hotel Casa
Alondra Hotel Casa

We walked around town (which isn't big) and bought some ice, chips, and rum and coke at the Oxxo. This is brilliant: the Oxxo has liquor on sale. For instance, you buy a Captain Morgan, you get a 2 L bottle of Coca-cola for free. And it only costs $11. They have similar deals with a other boozy drinks. You get a free mixer and ice. So sunset drinks it was.
rum and coke for $11?
sunset drinks
sunset drinks
sunset drinks
sunset drinks
sunset drinks
Alondra Hotel Casa
this place looks like any backpacker town in south east asia, with pirated dvds, sarongs, hammocks
Barra de Navidad
I spoke with the owner of this 2007 F650gs the next day. He says he only has 3,000 km on it! It is pristine! He is from Puebla state.
a newer F650gs
praciticing dance show at the town square
Barra de Navidad

Pleasantly pickled, we walked around for food and had some volanoes, which are open faced tacos with much more meat than a normal taco.
the stuff in the center I thought was garlic and green onions. No. It is pineapple and cilantro.
Volcanes bistek and al pastor
Volcanes bistek and al pastor
Volcanes bistek and al pastor
We talked to some Canadians. This town is full of them. They had been coming down to Barra de Navidad for 20 years. There has been a paucity of foreign tourists on our trip thus far. We saw some Spanish-speaking backpacker girls in Real, and in Guadalajara we saw a couple girls and a couple guys that looked like tourists. The Lonely Planet said at the Guadalajara cathedral, we would run into more tourists than actual worshippers. This was hardly the case for us. So it was kind of nice to see foreigners sitting in restaurants and walking around. It wasn't busy in Barra but it wasn't a ghost town either.

Day 11 Barra de Navidad 0 miles
Barra de Navidad
Barra de Navidad
rust in paradise

We had some lunch at Seamaster, which was on the water, but the food was so-so. We were really craving Baja fish tacos, and the fish was pan fried in butter instead of deep fried with batter. And the salsa stunk.
Seamaster restaurant
Seamaster restaurant
fish ceviche supposedly
fish tacos

We went for a walk on the beach to Melaque which was a lot hotter than we expected.
walk to Melaque
this guy tried to ride but kept spinning.
beach riding with honda wave
look at his rear tire and see why
beach riding with honda wave
puffer fish
Snowbirds playing ladder toss

Melaque was busy with families playing in the sand and snowbirds player ladder toss. Definitely more people hang out at Melaque than Barra.
Melaque
the wife tries to tame some wild rabid dogs on the beach
Christine tames rabid dogs on the beach
We took the bus back to Barra and bought more ice and drank at the hotel overlooking the beach.
Hotel Alondra infinity pool
Sunbathing

The wife played tug of war with a pit bull.
tug o war with a pit bull
Christine playing tug-o-war with rabid pit bull in Mexico
come back!
Christine playing tug-o-war with rabid pit bull in Mexico
We bought some El Jimador with Fresca. El Jimador is excellent. I have never bought a bottle of tequila before, but it is made in Jalisco, the state we were currently in. I was only 129 pesos, for the Fresca and bottle of tequila. That's $10 usd
El Jimador and Fresca
Sunset drinks
Sunset drinks
Sunset drinks
We had been striking out on meals here, and we had seen some taco stands near the entrance of town, so we headed that way, but we were lured to the some awesome live music at Los Arcos de Jalisco.
Los Arcos de Jalisco
Los Arcos de Jalisco
They had fried fish tacos for 45pesos, so we sat down. Turns out they are really rolled tacos, but they were delicious. We had another order.
Los Arcos de Jalisco
Los Arcos de Jalisco
Los Arcos de Jalisco
I had thought we had ordered some aguachile, a shrimp ceviche of sorts, but the order never came. Next time. Turns out the road side taco stand was closed at night so we walked back to town and a taco stand was grilling meat on a tire rim grill.
tire rim grill
I had seen one of these on the beach earlier that day. We sat and had a taco each. Delicious and only 10 pesos each.
tire rim grill
Quesadilla miriam.com
Quesadilla miriam.com
Quesadilla miriam.com
Quesadilla miriam.com
We will book another night here, finding it hard to leave. We are thinking about leaving the bike at the BMW dealer for a couple weeks if they will let us.

bastchild screwed with this post 12-09-2013 at 04:45 PM Reason: replace duplicated photo
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Old 12-09-2013, 06:24 PM   #23
acejones
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Nice report. What kind of airfare are you finding from Guadalajara to GPT ?
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Old 12-09-2013, 07:18 PM   #24
bastchild OP
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Nice report. What kind of airfare are you finding from Guadalajara to GPT ?
we got $800 a week before departure on the kayak.mx site which referred us to expedia.es. it is a lot of money just the same. not sure if one is able to get on the .mx or .es site from the stateside servers. even now we are trying to figure out which direction we will head to next. mazatlan or linger inland and visit san miguel allende, morelia, the monarch butterfly sanctury and mexico city. it is hard not to double back when riding through mexico. we are probably going to leave the bike at the bmw dealer if we can or else the hotel this week while we are home.
thanks for reading
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Old 12-12-2013, 07:48 PM   #25
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Day 12 Barra de Navidad 0 Miles

Spent another day at the beach, but this time took the bus to Melaque and walked back. Being Monday, the beach was pretty quiet, confirming our feeling that the crowds the day prior at Melaque were daytripping locals. We found an empty table and umbrella Senor Froy’s and had some drinks and food. The water temperature was perfect. We were surrounded by Canadian snowbirds, who, like backpackers, kept meeting up town-to-town. (I would say, like motorcyclists but since we haven’t met any yet, I can’t.)
When it came time to pay our bill, I realized that they were tried to pull a fast one on me. I suppose it works with drunk Canadians pensioners. (Or anyone.) I had ordered Tecates, because I like it and it was cheaper, but the first beer they brought me was Dos XX. The rest of my beers were Tecate, but they put down that I had 3 Dos XX. And they tried to keep an extra 50 pesos when giving me change. No big deal. But just a reminder to be wary when at touristy places. I still tipped 25 pesos.
A beat up bike in Barra
beat up bike

A baby on the bus to Melaque
baby on bus to melaque

Melaque
Melaque

Senor Froy’s
Senor Froy's

Melaque

BLT

Melaque

Back at our hotel for sunset
Barra de Navidad

Barra de Navidad

For dinner we couldn’t find anything interesting open so we went back to Los Arcos and discovered the beautiful flavor of aguachile. It is sort of like ceviche except it isn’t blended or chopped up. It is whole shrimp tails soaked in lime juice. It is more like sushi. Fantastic.

We got excited when we spotted this GS but it was someone riding home, just passing through for tacos.
GS 1200

Mole enchilada – so-so
Mole enchilada

Tortilla soup – not like Puerto nueva
Tortilla soup

Aguachile – this is the bomb
Aguachile
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Old 12-12-2013, 08:27 PM   #26
D.T.
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Nice pictures!

Thanks for sharing. I need to get down there...
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Old 12-13-2013, 08:12 AM   #27
Eagletalon
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Thanks for sharing with us guys. So when do you guys plan on going back?

Later
John
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Old 12-13-2013, 02:05 PM   #28
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yep, gonna subscribe. dig ur style.
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Old 12-14-2013, 09:12 AM   #29
bastchild OP
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Thanks for sharing with us guys. So when do you guys plan on going back?

Later
John
thanks for reading. we are currently back home but headed back to guadalajara in 4 days to pick up the bike and ride it to the coast (we think) and stay in the warm weather for a few days. emphasis on few.

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yep, gonna subscribe. dig ur style.
yeah, but if we were hardcore, we would have done something like your tat trip. that's a great report. thanks for reading!
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Old 12-14-2013, 08:03 PM   #30
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Day 13 Barra de Navidad 0 miles

The wife had homework to do all day. I spent my day reading ride reports and researching routes to take from Guadalajara. Northwest to Mazatlan and then down the coast, or east toward more silver mining towns? I took some photos from the rooftop bar of the hotel.
Rooftop bar

And for lunch made it to El Guero, a seafood shack as you enter the town on the main road. It was great.
El Guero

Mariscos El Guero

Shrimp ceviche yum
Shrimp ceviche on tostada

Finally fried fish tacos, sort of like in Ensenada – but the magic is in the white sauce in Baja, and this is really not quite as good. But it is the best we have found so far.
Fish taco, shrimp taco

Aguachile again
Aguachile

Vw beetle selling snacks
VW beetle vendor

Met an 85 yo American, Headly Chambers, who lives half the time in Las Vegas, and half the time in Barra. He was interesting with many stories. He is like the mayor of the expats. He knows everyone.
Headly Chambers

I called Carmen Motors in the morning (when I was supposed to pick up the bike) but they told me the springs were too long and they would have to cut them. No, no no! I called Klaus at EPM Performance Imports and he emailed me some instructions which I forwarded to Carmen Motors. Turns out (hopefully) that the spacer may need to be cut. Carmen Motors replied that they would do so. I have a factory-lowered bike, and Klaus says on the fiche it looked like there was a spacer. I guess we will see when I pick up the bike next week. Does anyone else have insight on this?

For sunset we had drinks from the rooftop bar. Yes, it would have been cheaper to buy a bottle from the Oxxo, but we decided since it was our last night at Barra, we might as well enjoy the view from up top. Yes, it was worth it. Met some Canadian snowbirds who own homes in Barra. This town is full of Canadians. They say after Christmas, even more come down here, and they have a direct flight from Toronto to Manzanillo, just 30 km down the coast.
Rooftop bar

Rooftop bar

Rooftop bar

Rooftop bar

Dinner was a bit off, but we met another American, Bob, who owns a 5 bedroom/apartment place in town. He normally rents it by the week or month but said he would rent a room out for $40/night and had safe place for a motorcycle too. He is at www.casadelaparota.com if you are interested in hanging out for a long time here. It is quite nice.
Mariscos Pipi

Fish covered with white sauce, stuffed with shrimp and bacon. Sounds great but tasted dried and overcooked
Mariscos Pipi

Coconut shrimp. Equally dried and flavorless
Mariscos Pipi

Bob’s place is behind the wife
Mariscos Pipi

Casa de la Parota

Casa de la Parota
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