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Old 02-16-2014, 09:33 PM   #76
bastchild OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eagletalon View Post
Just got caught up again with your RR. Great update!

Thanks
John
thanks we are almost caught up now!

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Originally Posted by Blind Mule View Post
just subscribed to your ride report. Your report is awesome. Keep up the good work.
thanks! we're trying!

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Originally Posted by vintagespeed View Post
too cool, awesome pics! is that a ground beaver?

gonna be in NOLA few weeks end of April, if you get a chance i'd love some info on stays/eats.
not sure what that animal is but long teeth and claws. it kept grabbing at the weeds near it's hole and then disappearing.

pm your email and we will send our recommendations for nola!
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Old 02-16-2014, 09:58 PM   #77
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Day 31 to Hierve el Aqua and back to Oaxaca 89 miles on bike

day 31 to hierve el agua


We had some coffee and hot chocolate at Cafe Brujala, and it was so-so. The coffee and chocolate were supposed to be great in Oaxaca.
Oaxaca
Cafe Brujala
Cafe Brujala
Cafe Brujala


Today we planned on going to Hierve el Agua, about an hour to the east.
We headed off, avoiding the dirt mountain trail and taking the mostly paved way to the springs. The road passes through some mezcal-making villages.
Riding to Hierve el Aqua
27CDB6E-AE6D-11cf-96B8-444553540000">
Riding to Hierve el Aqua


We had to pay 10 pesos each to pass through a village and 20 pesos each to enter the parking area. There are a lot of food stands there. The springs themselves were pretty but not warm. But they let you walk around in them and touch the stone, which wouldn't be the case if this were Yellowstone National Park. It was a nice view and people were sitting and enjoying the day.
Hierve el Aqua
Hierve el Aqua
Hierve el Aqua
Hierve el Aqua
Hierve el Aqua
Hierve el Aqua


We headed back to town, taking a closed highway that was still being constructed. We probably didn't save much time, but we didn't have to slow down for no topes in the village. We just had a wee bit of off roading around the toll booths. I love how no one gives you heck for doing this around here. This security guard just pointed out the safest way for us to go around the construction.
shortcut around closed highway




We stopped at the BMW dealer but the service garage was closed and they wouldn't let us drop off the bike. Bring the bike back tomorrow at 9am. Our flight was at 10:21 am. Hm.
We walked around and took photos on our way to the mercado.
Oaxaca
Oaxaca
Oaxaca
Oaxaca
Oaxaca
Oaxaca
Oaxaca
Oaxaca
Oaxaca
Oaxaca
Oaxaca
Oaxaca
Oaxaca
what fruit is this? Seed looks like avocado
?fruit


That night we went back to the mercado and has some tlayudas, Oaxacan pizzas which were tasty.
Tyaluda
65 pesos
Tyaluda
more mango enchiladas
Oaxaca
the sky is just getting good
Oaxaca


We had a quesadilla mole which was cold and so-so. Texture like cold Jack in the Box tacos. Haha.
quesadilla
quesadilla
I love this time of day for photos.
Zocalo
balloon vendors were doing a bang up job.
Zocalo
Zocalo


There was more music in the zocala and we walked around some more. Oaxaca's zocala is our favorite so far.
Zocalo
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Old 02-17-2014, 07:28 AM   #78
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that is sweet. is that a separate entrance fee to the river portion or cave to soak in?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wd27I5xUJRE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XuMVLylsZkQ

here is la gruta near san miguel de allende
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F6VNvoAIKzQ
& escondido which is just down the road
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=po35f34PFgA

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Originally Posted by rideforsmiles View Post
Hey guys Sheldon and Ewa here we have only just recently spent 3 months in Mexico riding two up so enjoying your ride report, im not sure where you are right now but if you are anywhere north of Mexico City by an hour or two drop into Tolantongo you will love it. Maybe our paths might cross along the way somewhere till then ride safe.


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Old 02-18-2014, 07:32 AM   #79
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Great Report

What a great report....Mexico looks amazing!
PS You have a very "bendy" lady wife!!! (Ref: the pic of her at the Pyramids) Very impressive!
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Old 02-18-2014, 08:57 AM   #80
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Originally Posted by Bradlo View Post
What a great report....Mexico looks amazing!
PS You have a very "bendy" lady wife!!! (Ref: the pic of her at the Pyramids) Very impressive!
haha thanks. she likes her yoga.
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Old 02-18-2014, 08:59 AM   #81
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Day 32 to New Orleans 9 miles on bike

We got up early to get to the airport and check in for our flight before trying our luck at the BMW mechanico. The hotel let us leave our two side cases with them since we would be back in a week. The airport is only like seven miles from the hotel. At the airport, we looped around the loading/unloading/return to airport circular drive three times. The security guard wouldn't let us stop there even though there was no traffic, and the parking gate wouldn't let us through. Finally, we realized we had to park the motorcycles over by employee parking (mostly motorcycles) for free. Wierd. One of the nice things about flying out of smaller airports is the lack of lines. We checked in for our flight quickly and then headed to the BMW dealer, 3 miles away to drop off the bike. Alberto at Vecsa BMW could speak excellent English and took down all the information and even got us a complimentary cab to the airport. I decided to get the yearly (42k miles) servicing done while we were away this time. Hopefully there are no problems.
We had the taxi drop us off outside the airport so we could have some breakfast cheaper than in the airport. Good eats!





had the taxi drop us off just outside the airport to get some cheaper food

what's with the stale pastries and bread for breakfast around here?

chocolate con agua, believe it or not, better than cafe brujala downtown!

ah, roll tacos for breakfast! Loved these.
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Old 02-22-2014, 05:15 PM   #82
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Day 33 to Oaxaca, 0 miles on bike

This is how we carry our tank bag off the bike.
tank bag strapped on top of backback

We didn't get back into Oaxaca until past 6pm. It was nice and warm – around 80 F in the evening. We took an airport collectivo for 60 pesos each to our hotel. It was Sunday night and we didn't want to miss out on dinner at the mercado. The hotel gave us our old room back but wanted to charge 650 pesos, but I balked and she had no problems giving us the 550 peso rate which was on the banner outside anyways. Was she trying to pull a fast one on us or did she think that was the rate we paid last week? It reminds me of bargaining for a hotel in San Quentin in Baja, and the clerk just kept looking down at her cheat sheet behind the counter, as I kept asking, “barato?” and she kept going lower and lower.
More importantly, our cases were still behind the desk. And we didn't have any receipts for them either.
Hotel Cantera Real

We have a tendency to walk the same routes when we are in a town, so this time we tried to take a different route to the mercado and actually missed it by a few blocks and had to back track. Haha.
We tried a different comedor which was crowded, but the food was about the same. It is good. The wife thinks it was much better. I had the chicken soup (caldo de pollo – 40 pesos) which was nice, and she had another tlayuda with puerco enchilda (50 pesos).
Mercado dining Oaxaca
Mercado dining Oaxaca

We went and found some more mango enchiladas before we were locked in the mercado. Actually we discovered only one gate was still open, the one we entered through, after wandering through the semi-dark labyrinth and coming upon one after another chain-locked gates.
We stopped at this crowded taco stand and has some pig head tostadas (25 pesos) and posole (30 pesos). I like pig skin as much as the next person, but for some reason this stuff reminded me a bit of our nasty tostadas we had in Zacatecas filled with what I presume to be tendons. The posole had excellent broth but topped with pigs head trimmings, I couldn't finish all of it. The hominy was a bit firmer than I am used to. I am probably used to canned hominy from the states, to be honest. This is like going to Asia and complaining that the food doesn't taste like Panda Express. I get it. I suck.
Tostada stand
pigs head
Tostada stand
Tostada stand

We were stuffed and walked on and enjoyed the zocalo once more. What a great town!
Zocalo Oaxaca
Oaxaca
Oaxaca
Oaxaca
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Old 02-23-2014, 10:53 AM   #83
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Day 34 to Zipolite, 156 miles on bike

day 34 to zipolite

I got up early-ish (ok, 8 am) to take a bus to the BMW mechanico. The buses are only 6 pesos and the bus stop was only 4 blocks away, in a direction we hadn't explored before. And there is a reason for that, I found out. There is not much over there, except a busy road. I took the bus headed to the Plaza de Valle, a shopping center with a hypermarket Soriano and got off across the street from the Nissan dealership.
Vecsa BMW Oaxaca

The bike was clean! Per the suggestion of one of the inmates here, I asked them to clean the bike, and they even cleaned the grease off the engine! Total bill for 42,000 miles was $104. I have walked out of a BMW service with paying so little. They changed the plug, oil, brake fluid, and I hope they checked everything else out, but I am not sure. But hey, they also kept the bike for a week. And to be honest, riding out of the garage, the bike sounded better, shifting felt tighter, and brakes were more responsive, so there's that. Can you tell I don't know crap about bikes? Anyways, I can highly recommend these guys at Vecsa BMW in Oaxaca.
Vecsa BMW Oaxaca
Vecsa BMW Oaxaca

We didn't get on the road until 11am. It was going to be a six-hour plus day. The distance was not so long, but I had read and heard that the road is slow and curvy through the mountains with potholes. Oh yeah, it was fun. We had a few sphincter-clenching moments probably because I am so good on the bike. Potholes? Yes, crater-size with parts of the road falling off the cliff. At one point I estimated we had driven 30 miles in almost 2 hours. My kickstand and centerstand kept scraping in the turns and even my boot got knocked off the pegs in one of the turns. It didn't help that this was the warmest day of riding we've had. I was a bit fried when we made it to Zipolite. Fortunately we stopped at an Oxxo at Pochula for a Fresca and El Jimador.
Mex 175 Oaxaca to Zipolite
Mex 175 Oaxaca to Zipolite
Mex 175 Oaxaca to Zipolite
27CDB6E-AE6D-11cf-96B8-444553540000">
Twine holding bricks on to a jeep?
Mex 175 Oaxaca to Zipolite

This is what Zipolite looks like from the road.
Riding into Zipolite
Riding into Zipolite

Zipolite, if you read the guidebooks and internets is a hippie beach expat village with weed and nude beaches. I would not say it is a backpacker's paradise as we have not seen many backpackers here although we did meet Nathaniel, who hails from Ohio, hitching his way to Guatemala. There are naked dudes walking around on the beach. The surf is pretty big but crashes close to shore, and the undertow is strong. They are currently tearing up the two dirt roads here that make up the main strip to install drainage pipes and cables for the next four months. The wife wanted to check out Posada Mexico on the beach. The guidebooks say this is the most popular place in Zipolite, but it only has 10 rooms. But restaurant and bar was definitely busy. We got a room ensuite for 450 pesos, with our bike just right outside the window. Mosquitoes were a bit of a problem but there was a mozzie net and I had my plug-in repellent from Thailand. I am sure the fumes will give me cancer, but it is odorless unlike mosquito coils. The bungalows are a bit rustic but pretty.
Posada Mexico
Posada Mexico
Posada Mexico
Posada Mexico

The beach view is awesome. There were some ripped people doing yoga on the beach in front of the restaurant and there was an acrobat's bar and rope. I knew this would be a hippie place, but these folks were intimidating. We hit the beach to cool off from the ride and watched the yogaists climb the rope and do their thing. It certainly drew a crowd. For dinner, we got a table at Posada Mexico as it was the only busy place on the beach, and it turns out the yogaists were really part of a circus troupe. They were having a show and the bar and restaurant became packed. As yogaists they were pretty good. As a real show, it is was so-so. We had watched most of the act during the rehearsal before dinner.
Posada Mexico
Zipolite beach - football games at sunset
Posada Mexico
Zipolite beach
Posada Mexico
Posada Mexico
Posada Mexico
Posada Mexico
Posada Mexico
Posada Mexico
Posada Mexico

We went for a walk on the beach and found it pretty empty at the other restaurants. It certainly isn't as busy as I expected. Or maybe the Posada Mexico took all the customers.
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Old 02-23-2014, 11:01 PM   #84
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Day 35 Zipolite 0 miles on bike

Zipolite map


We could hear the waves thundering all night, but it was a good sleep even without air conditioning. The mosquito net and my plug-in repellent kept us itch-free all night. Our upstairs neighbors woke up at 7am and the road crews started work at 8am. No matter, it was a new day at the beach!
We had breakfast at the hotel. I had the fruit platter and the wife had the eggs and potatoes with frijoles.
breakfast
breakfast


I spent some time on the internet updating adv while she secretly moved our belongings to the room next door so we wouldn't have upstairs neighbors. Wow.
Posada Mexico
Posada Mexico
Posada Mexico
Posada Mexico
Posada Mexico
Posada Mexico


It wasn't until lunch time until we set out on the beach, walking the entire length. There were a few naked dudes and a couple topless women, but mostly naked dudes. If this is your thing, this is the place to be. I mean, there were dudes, with their legs spread way open holding conversations with vendors. By vendors, I mean necklace, t-shirts, ice cream vendors that walk the playa in Mexico. Haha, it is fun here.
Zipolite beach


150 pesos/night Habana cabana beach bungalows. Awesome
Zipolite beach
Crazy fubol truck at the bungalows
Zipolite beach


The wife doing some yoga
Zipolite beach
Zipolite beach
Zipolite beach
Zipolite beach


The strange thing about the beach here is that it gets pretty busy during sunset with several games of futbol and surfers and people sun tanning and walking on the beach but during the rest of the day there is hardly anyone here. Where do they go? Do they work?
We bought some cans of beer and oranges and sunflower seeds and sat on the beach and enjoyed the day. The water is the perfect temperature and the water is fun. Clamato Sol is awesome. It hardly has any alcohol (less than 3%) but it tastes like bloody mary mix with beer.
We went back to the room to clean up and walked around town a bit and went back out at sunset to see the action. We bought some pastries, both savory and sweet, from a vendor for 15 pesos each. They were awesome, especially the tomato and basil. When she came back we tried to get more but she had sold out. They should be selling more food on the beaches instead of tourist trinkets.
Zipolite beach
Zipolite beach - football games at sunset
Zipolite beach
Tomato and basil – awesome!
Zipolite beach
Chorizo
Zipolite beach
Zipolite beach
Zipolite beach - football games at sunset
Zipolite beach
Zipolite beach
Zipolite beach


Fortunately Posada Mexico did such brisk business with their circus show they were closed tonight so we went to Piedre de Fuego, a family-owned seafood place in town. We had some breaded fish with fries and salad for 70 pesos, and 2 Coronas for 15 pesos each. What a deal.
Not much else happening on the beach at night. It is not like Thailand, after all. But it is pretty fun nonetheless.
Piedra de Fuego
Piedra de Fuego
Piedra de Fuego
Orange limes?
Piedra de Fuego
Star-filled sky
stars
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Old 02-24-2014, 12:29 AM   #85
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sweet.

looks like Zipolite is getting new streets.
are the cobblestoning, asphalt or concrete?
kinds looks like they are burying lines too?

i think you'll find more party action in puerto angel or puerto escondido
man the feeling of jumping that fast back and forth between mex & the us must be unreal.
almost like a time and space warp.
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Old 02-24-2014, 10:57 PM   #86
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sweet.

looks like Zipolite is getting new streets.
are the cobblestoning, asphalt or concrete?
kinds looks like they are burying lines too?

i think you'll find more party action in puerto angel or puerto escondido
man the feeling of jumping that fast back and forth between mex & the us must be unreal.
almost like a time and space warp.
not sure what they will be doing but they will be grading it so i expect it to be cobblestone like mazunte. or it could be dirt. the construction guy told me it would be dirt, but maybe he didn't understand me.

it is very strange going back and forth so much, but the flights help with the mental transition. it is quite nice to get back home to do laundry and sleep in our bed, but it is awesome to be back in mexico in the warmth and sun, awesome food, and el jimador.
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Old 02-24-2014, 11:02 PM   #87
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Day 36 Zipolite to Mazunte 8 miles on bike

day 36 to mazunte back
breakfast

Started off the day with a fruit plate and then headed off to Mazunte, 5 km away to look at the sea turtle rehabilitation center. Mazunte used to be the site for a slaughterhouse for sea turtles until 1990.
Turtle Center at Mazunte

They used to process thousands a day. Now there is a half-built rehab center for sea turtles. Martha, one of the workers said that they ran out of money and so two aquariums lay unfinished. It is a bit dumpy but you can hold and touch the turtles which I guess is different. It only costs $2 to check it out.
Mazunte
Turtle Center at Mazunte
Turtle Center at Mazunte
Turtle Center at Mazunte
Turtle Center at Mazunte
Turtle Center at Mazunte
Turtle Center at Mazunte
Turtle Center at Mazunte

We went back to Zipolite and the construction crew had dug up the road in front of our hotel so it would be impossible to get in or out. I guess we were lucky to have left when we did or else we would be still parked in the lot. I pulled in at the hotel next door. They wanted me to pay but our owner came over and asked their manager to let us park there for free.
Zipolite

We walked along and bought some more El Jimador and Squirt, a mango and headed to the beach.
We got sunburned but it was fun. We had some fish tacos for 40 pesos for 5. They were made of dark fish meat and were tasty and different.
fish tacos 40 pesos for 5
fish tacos 40 pesos for 5

After some time of lying topless, the wife decided she felt comfortable enough to lay in the buff. With some convincing, I decided to as well. This is actually a free kind of feeling that everyone should try at least once. A bit later, some guy put his blanket down about 15 feet behind us but we didn’t think anything of it. Later on, the wife told me that he was playing with himself. I turned around and he was going for it big time, so we got up and left. We weren’t the only people around; there was a group of people standing in front of us with a nude dude as well, but when we moved right after noticing this so did he. Weirdo.
Zipolite beach
Zipolite beach
Zipolite beach
Zipolite beach
Zipolite beach
Zipolite beach

For dinner we had pizza at Pizza Barrilito. It is pretty awesome. There are wood-burning pizza ovens all over town. I think there are a lot of Italian expats living here too. In fact, our hotel is owned by some Italians.
Pizza Barrilito
Pizza Barrilito
A bit drunk
Pizza Barrilito
Pizza Barrilito
Pizza Barrilito
Pizza Barrilito
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Old 02-25-2014, 06:53 AM   #88
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Great pictures! Well, except for the naked dudes on the beach...

I love how you've made the trip work with your work schedule!

Just goes to show that where there's a will(ling wife), there's a way!

Keep rolling and be safe.
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Old 02-25-2014, 07:11 AM   #89
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Great pictures! Well, except for the naked dudes on the beach...

I love how you've made the trip work with your work schedule!
I couldn't agree more... This is one of my all-time favorite Mexico ride reports! Great photography with just enough commentary and maps to capture the essence of the trip.

Cheers,

.
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Old 02-25-2014, 10:26 AM   #90
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this is also one of my favorite ride reports...I like to see the details of places you go, eat and stay...gives me an idea where to go, what to do, where to stay with motorcycle...

safe ride......
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