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Old 02-25-2014, 12:55 PM   #91
XTWalt
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Awesome!

Let me get this straight.

Your wife:
  • likes riding on your motorcycle
  • likes riding on your motorcycle in Mexico
  • likes to drink beer
  • likes to drink Tequila
  • likes burgers
  • likes spicy Mexican food
  • always has a smile
  • is smoking hot

This by definition might be the perfect woman. You sir, are one lucky husband.

I'm really enjoying your report, excellent writing and photos. I especially love all the food photos, I usually have to go out for Mex after reading your updates. Thanks for all the effort you put into it.

Ride (and Fly) safe.
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Old 02-25-2014, 02:46 PM   #92
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arrrgghhhhh! damn my eyes!






more hot wife in surf, less turtle heads...
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Old 02-26-2014, 07:40 AM   #93
Blader54
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So glad no shots of naked dudes playing beach volleyball! Have fun you guys! Life is a one-way trip!!
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Old 02-27-2014, 08:29 PM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lightcycle View Post
Great pictures! Well, except for the naked dudes on the beach...

I love how you've made the trip work with your work schedule!

Just goes to show that where there's a will(ling wife), there's a way!

Keep rolling and be safe.
gene & neda, we are big fans and having been following your trip for over a year -- your photos are amazing. we are humbled by you guys!

Quote:
Originally Posted by poolman View Post
I couldn't agree more... This is one of my all-time favorite Mexico ride reports! Great photography with just enough commentary and maps to capture the essence of the trip.

Cheers,

.
once again, thanks so much for your kind words!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Turk34 View Post
this is also one of my favorite ride reports...I like to see the details of places you go, eat and stay...gives me an idea where to go, what to do, where to stay with motorcycle...

safe ride......
thanks; we like documenting our lodging and meal options. we play the game of recalling every meal we've had on the trip, and it helps to have taken photos.

Quote:
Originally Posted by XTWalt View Post
Let me get this straight.

Your wife:
  • likes riding on your motorcycle
  • likes riding on your motorcycle in Mexico
  • likes to drink beer
  • likes to drink Tequila
  • likes burgers
  • likes spicy Mexican food
  • always has a smile
  • is smoking hot

This by definition might be the perfect woman. You sir, are one lucky husband.

I'm really enjoying your report, excellent writing and photos. I especially love all the food photos, I usually have to go out for Mex after reading your updates. Thanks for all the effort you put into it.

Ride (and Fly) safe.
thanks for reminding me how lucky i am!

Quote:
Originally Posted by vintagespeed View Post
arrrgghhhhh! damn my eyes!






more hot wife in surf, less turtle heads...
had to read that a couple times before i got what you meant with "turtle heads" -- i have tons of photos of the wife in the surf but those are for our eyes only. sorry! if you magnify some of the beach photos, you might be able to see some ladies laying out too.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Blader54 View Post
So glad no shots of naked dudes playing beach volleyball! Have fun you guys! Life is a one-way trip!!
so am i!
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Old 02-27-2014, 08:56 PM   #95
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Day 37 to Huatulco 26 miles on bike

day 37 to huatulco


We had a 10:25 am flight out of Huatulco, about an hour away, so we got up early before the sun to pack and head out. It was already hot when we rode out at 7am. The coast road is slow. 25-30 mph max.
Sunrise Zipolite
Packing up
hopping a trench


At Huatulco, we parked for free at the terminal. The airport has a manned gate to enter but they don't charge for parking. It looked secure enough. There is still construction going on, but it is a new airport. It has a palapa roof. We met Betsy and Dan from Sonoma who had spent six weeks traveling from Puerto Escondido to Huatulco. They have a vineyard called Apellicino.
We had a tyaluda at the airport for 95 pesos. It was all right.
Huatulco airport
Tlayuda


It was a quick flight to Mexico City on Interjet for less than $100 and then a flight back home. Bad weather in the south kept us delayed in Houston for a few hours and instead of getting home at 10pm, we landed in New Orleans at 1:30 am and were told we were on our own. Actually what they said was this: “we will fly you back to Houston but we will not provide a hotel because this was a weather-related delay or you can get off the plane here, but you are also on your own.” We had to listen to some foul-mouthed young female adult cuss up a storm on her phone to her mother about how incompetent the United pilots were and that she was going to fly us to Gulfport and land the plane herself – man, there are some low-class people. The wife and I shared a $300 cab ride back home with a captain of a TransOcean oil drilling ship off of the Saudi coast. It made for interesting conversation for the 90 minute ride home. (Aramco has been paying their ship $1 million/day for oil exploration for the past nine months and they have found zilch!) The cab driver however, was pissed to be driving us to Mississippi. It would be three hours for him roundtrip – maybe he normally makes more than $100/h at 2am on a Thursday night. Anyways, I was just happy to have made it home in one piece, even if we were six hours late. I could still sleep a few hours and go to work in the morning.
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Old 02-27-2014, 10:12 PM   #96
eakins
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So was anyone surfing naked in Zipolite???
I'm sure it's been done but might be a bit abrasive on yer parts when lying on the board paddling out. That would make for a hot dog.
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Old 03-01-2014, 05:59 PM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
So was anyone surfing naked in Zipolite???
I'm sure it's been done but might be a bit abrasive on yer parts when lying on the board paddling out. That would make for a hot dog.
yeah, that doesn't sound comfortable. we didn't see anyone surfing in the buff!
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Old 03-01-2014, 09:53 PM   #98
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Day 37 to Huatulco 26 miles on bike

day 38 to crucecita

We had a good flight into Huatulco that arrived at 2:11pm from Houston. We thought we might miss the flight in Houston, but made it no problem. United’s only alternative was to be booked on a flight tomorrow, but we would have one day less on the bike and this trip was only 4 days already!
Perfect coves along the coast of Huatulco
Huatulco from the air

Arriving in Huatulco’s airport is awesome. It reminds me of Hawaii. It is a one-terminal airport with palm thatched roofs over the buildings, so they are semi-open air. You deplane on to the tarmac and walk to the immigration and there is one dude there stamping you in. I love it. Of course our bike was there, and we decided on wearing only our jackets and stuffing our riding pants in the milk crate in back. It was 87 F! The one big surprise was being stuck with a 200 peso/day fee for parking at the airport. I should have known better – there was a gate at the terminal, but no parking fee sign. I told them we had been parked for one week, so their price card said it was 1600 pesos – ouch! I was pissed, but I shouldn’t have been. It was my fault, and the bike was safe, and we didn’t get stuck in Houston, so karmically, it was all good.
Bike is still here

We found the Hotel Delphinus close to the beach in Crucecita, the main town in Huatulco. The area is built for tourism and has a handful of picturesque coves and exclusive resorts. It is a package tour destination. It is quite clean. The cheap hotels are in Crucecita, and Dan and Betsy, whom we met at the airport last week recommended it. It was only $35/night with a/c. After driving around to a couple other places close by it was the cheapest, so we ended up there. It is located next to a small park and across the street from the beach. They have access to the “beach club” for free.
Perfectly manicured grass in Huatulco
riding to Crucecita
Hotel Delphinus
Hotel Delphinus
Hotel Delphinus
Hotel Delphinus

We started walking around looking for an Oxxo close by but gave up and just went and bought jugos to go with our El Jimador (we leave a bottle in our case on the bike). We have seen these vendors all over Mexico, usually hounded by a swarm of bees. They sell fruity drinks in Technicolor. For 15 pesos he had a small bag of shaved ice, and poured some concentrate in it, and then filled it up with water. The wife had a strawberry and I had a pineapple. They go well with a few shots of tequila.
Jugos
Jugos plus!

We were told by Roberto, the owner at our hotel, that the beach at Crucecita was not that good. Man, it is awesome.
Crucecita beach
Crucecita beach
Crucecita beach

The beach sand is perfect. It feels great but is coarse enough so that you can brush it off and it doesn’t get you “dirty”. There were a few people on the beach but almost no one laying out. Most people were playing futfbol or at the two beach clubs. One is with a hotel and the other is a private club that we had free access to (because we were at the Hotel Delphinus). We didn’t go to either because I am too cheap to pay more for our drinks. The water temperature, like Zipolite, just an hour away, was perfect, but water was so much clearer, and the waves were much more calm. The wife was happy. I was happy. Jugos done, I passed out -- perfect arrival in Mexico.
Crucecita beach
Crucecita beach
Crucecita beach
Crucecita beach
Crucecita beach
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Old 03-01-2014, 09:55 PM   #99
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After the sun went down, we headed back to our rooms to clean up and find some food. The wife was in the mood for seafood. Tripadvisor indicated that El Grillo Marinero in town was the place to go. It gets 5-stars but costs $1-$10. Sounds good to me.
ATGATT? Sorry, not today. We rode the one-mile to “downtown” and did a loop to get our bearings. There were quite a few gringos about. We parked the bike and ate at El Grillo Marinero. The taco place next door was hopping too.
riding on the sidewalk
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El Grillo Marinero
El Grill Marinero

Swimming pools for limes
IMG_0568

We shared a couple different plates of seafood. They only sell seafood. I had the ceviche-type stuff but it was was kind of bland for Mexico. I am sure if I were back home in the States, I would be raving about this, but compared to aguachile or ceviche, I was disappointed.
El Grill Marinero

The wife has some chipotle seafood concoction for which I was less enthused. To be honest, we aren’t really restaurant-goers.
El Grill Marinero
El Grill Marinero

I just wanted a taco stand. Oh well. We found an Oxxo and looked to see what was on sale. We ended up with a bottle of The Kraken black-spiced rum and a 2-L bottle of Coke for 159 pesos.
When we were leaving the beach earlier, a band was setting up at the beach club, so we headed back to catch the show. We brought some cups (one from home and one was from the Oxxo) and drank our rum and cokes at room temperature on the beach sand. The security guard wouldn’t let us stand too close to the show and take photos. The beaches in Mexico are public property!
blues band at the beach club

We sat on our sarong and enjoyed the free blues show. The beach club was packed. We got drunk and danced to the music. It was a good time.
The bite of the Kraken!
the bite of the Kraken!
blues band at the beach club
listening to the blues at Crucecita
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Old 03-02-2014, 08:11 PM   #100
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Day 39 to Chiapas de Corzo, 304 miles on bike

day 39 to chiapas de corzo
Hotel Delphinus

We were supposed to get up early to ride toward Tuxtla, but the bite of the Kraken kept us down hard. It was a slow time getting ready for the road and we didn’t hit it until almost 11am. We drove the coast road through the Huatulco beaches and resorts until we hit Mex-200. It was a slow windy ride until we hit the cuota. A couple adventure-tourers blew by us. One was a Tenere and maybe a 1200 GS was the other. They were hauling. The cuota was a nice break on the slow road but the way towards La Ventosa, as expected, was very windy. As Jackie and Valentino pointed out, there are massive wind farms on this route and the wind will be good practice for the Ruta 40.
Windy road to La Ventosa
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Be ware of passing trucks
Windy road to La Ventosa
pee break

The temperatures got warmer and warmer as we left the wind farms, but then cooled off as we climbed the mountains to Tuxtla. We headed above the clouds and had to put on our rain gear because the mist was getting everything wet.
moving to the front of the line
Tuxtla ahead

Of course, it warmed up in Chiapas de Corzo, just outside Tuxtla. We booked two nights in Chiapas de Corzo, so we could get a boat ride to see the Canyons of Sumidero, and so we could make an morning flight out in a couple days. Booking.com indicated that rooms were selling out and there was only one room left at the Hotel de Santiago for $33. We took it. The gps coordinates and tripadvisor and google maps was wrong with the hotel location.
Where is the hotel?

But I kind of expected this when I saw google maps street view. I figured out where the hotel was though. And it wasn’t full. There was no one there. Man, this town was kind of dead. The zocalo was big and there were people milling about but there was no show, no vendors, no buskers. We checked into one room (we had the run of the place) and decided to change rooms because the two-bed rooms (which we had booked) were nicer than the one-bed rooms. They let me park in their courtyard. The listing indicated free parking but I am not sure where their parking lot is. Anyways, the place was ok. Not great, but ok. We cringed at the thought of staying here for two nights. Oh well. We had paid when we arrived (as per booking.com policy).
Hotel de Santiago
Hotel de Santiago
Hotel de Santiago
Hotel de Santiago
Hotel de Santiago
Church on the square
Chiapas de Corzo

We walked in all four directions leaving the zocalo, desperate to find some busy taco stands, but only found a few empty stands. We had five tacos each and they were delicious.
Chiapas de Corzo
Chiapas de Corzo
Chiapas de Corzo
Chiapas de Corzo
Chiapas de Corzo
Our hotel next to church
Chiapas de Corzo
taco stand
50 cents a taco. We had 5 each. awesome
taco stand
taco stand

In the zocalo
Chiapas de Corzo

We went to some other stand and had some tamales. They were quite filling and better than the ones I’ve had in the States, not surprisingly.
Tamale stand
12 pesos (92 cents) per tamale. yum
Tamale stand
Tamale stand
Tamale stand

We saw one tourist couple in one restaurant but it was kind of expensive (to us). No one else. Oh well.
Chiapas de Corzo
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Old 03-03-2014, 04:22 PM   #101
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Day 40 to Canon del sumidero 47 miles on bike

day 40 to canon del sumidero

We got up at 8am. The hotel clerk told us to be at the docks to catch a ride to the canyon by 10am. The docks are around the corner from the hotel.
Buying tickets for boat ride to Canon de Sumidero

We saw the only other gringos in town. They had been there since 8am and it was 9am. They told us the boat would not leave until it was full. There were a few tourists milling about.
Buying tickets for boat ride to Canon de Sumidero
Canon de Sumidero

About 30 minutes later, they decided they could leave. It was 160 pesos per person. They gave us a life jacket and a wrist band. The wrist band said 27 pesos -- more on this later.
Canon de Sumidero
Canon de Sumidero
Canon de Sumidero
Canon de Sumidero

The canyon tour lasted 2.5 hours. It is awesome. It is like seeing Zion National park. Or the Napali coast in Kauai. There is a lot of trash in the water, but the cliffs soar 1000-meters above the water. We saw a croc and some monkeys. I remember first reading about this canyon in Climbing Magazine in the 90’s.
The entrance to the canyon is beyond that bridge.
Canon de Sumidero
Canon de Sumidero
Canon de Sumidero
Canon de Sumidero
Canon de Sumidero
Monkeys
Lots of trash in the water
Canon de Sumidero
Christmas tree rock formation. Dripping water and plant growth. Interesting.
Christmas tree rock
Christmas tree rock
Christmas tree rock
Under the skirts
Christmas tree rock
The dam at the end of the canyon
Canon de Sumidero
Crocodile
Canon de Sumidero
Chiapas de Corzo
Chiapas de Corzo

When we made it back to town, it was pretty hot, around 90F. Chiapas de Corzo gets a lot of business from day tourists from San Cristabol, less than an hour away. There are two other places boats launch from. One is about 300 meters downstream, and the other is outside of town near the bridge.
We went to the small Mercado for lunch and had a guava shake (15 pesos) and a couple lunch plates at 35 pesos each: puerco con salsa verde and Puerco adobado. They were great – good value.
Chiapas de Corzo mercado
Chiapas de Corzo mercado
Chiapas de Corzo mercado
Chiapas de Corzo mercado
Chiapas de Corzo mercado
Chiapas de Corzo mercado
Chiapas de Corzo mercado
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Old 03-03-2014, 04:22 PM   #102
bastchild OP
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Stuffed, we didn’t know what do with the rest of the day. We ended up riding to the edge of the Sumidero canyon on the bike. We had to head back to Tuxtla to get to the National Park entrance. It was only about 30 minutes away. At the entrance we had to pay 28 pesos each to get these green wrists bands. Hey, those look familiar. Yes, you can use them to visit the canyon via boat. Oh, right, I cut mine off already. Oh well. So if you do this trip, keep the wrist band on and you don’t have to pay twice to visit the National Park. Duh.
The temperatures cooled off the higher we went. The views are spectacular. If you end up coming here, and you don’t have time for the boat ride, the views up here are still pretty good.
27CDB6E-AE6D-11cf-96B8-444553540000">
Canon de Sumidero
Canon de Sumidero
Canon de Sumidero
Canon de Sumidero
Canon de Sumidero
Canon de Sumidero
Canon de Sumidero
Cooling off with my zips open wide.
Canon de Sumidero

We ended up watching the sunset behind the clouds at the river bank, sipping Fanta and the rest of the Kraken. After the sunset we went to the zocalo to people watch. Then we bought some more booze from the Oxxo. This time we had a bag of ice, a 2-L bottle of Coke, and a 980 mL bottle of Bacardi for 159 pesos. Funny thing was they clerk tried to short change me 100 pesos. She was blasé about it too. I paused, looked at my change, and said, “Lo siento…” and she said in Spanish, “yes, I owe you 100 more pesos,” and opened the till and gave me the rest of my change. She didn’t even pretend to be confused or apologetic. Haha. Well, it can happen anywhere.
Chiapas de Corzo
Chiapas de Corzo
Chiapas de Corzo

For dinner we went back to the same taco stand. Yum.
taco stand
taco stand
Pickled radishes. Yum
taco stand
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Old 03-03-2014, 07:05 PM   #103
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This is a fantastic ride report, thanks so much for doing it. I gave you 5 stars, which moved it from 3 stars to 4 stars, but this is a 5 star report.
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Old 03-04-2014, 01:02 PM   #104
vintagespeed
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love the canyon pics, looks awesome! minus the trash of course...
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Old 03-05-2014, 07:25 PM   #105
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Great report

Thank you so much for sharing your trip(s). It's obvious that you guys are having a blast together and are really loving life and loving each other. That's rarer than it should be, but rare none the less.

Best wishes for continued happiness, safety, and adventure.

Thanks again!
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