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Old 02-23-2014, 07:03 AM   #151
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Thanks guys!
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Old 03-02-2014, 11:21 PM   #152
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Up and running by now?

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Old 04-12-2014, 06:58 AM   #153
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Sorry for the delay in updates...........I ran into a few problems and was doing some trips with the dirt bike.

The biggest delay was when I installed the cylinder and head. I put the barrel on first, then the head and torqued it all down. Realized there were 3 allen head bolts left in the bag that go between the cylinder and head. Thought no big deal, well you cannot get them in the holes after everything has been installed. The head has to be screwed to the cylnder using the allen heads and then the hole unit installed over the piston. I did not want to risk re-suing the head and base gasket so I ordered a new one ($75 mistake) and that took two 2 weeks.

But..........

The engine is together and ready to go


Almost anyway.......
The crank plug broke during install. Luckly its in stock and will be here monday


That will give me some time to service all the bearings, make up a kick stand relocator bracket and get the new tires mounted and ready. I hope in the next week or 2 I'll have a running and new(er) bike. Keep your fingers crossed I didnt screw anything up
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Old 04-12-2014, 07:14 AM   #154
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I did the same on one cylinder when putting my engine back together. But I even did worse than just forgetting about the upside down allen bolts -- I left out the pins between the head and cylinder as well. Fun doing things twice, isn't it. CJ Designs sells as billet generator cover that's really nice. It comes with a billet tool that can be used with the standard toolkit to both remove the plug and rotate the engine. Really nice.
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Old 04-13-2014, 06:20 AM   #155
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You don't read the manual? Piston goes in from the top for one.. after that you bolt on the head. only then you place the whole assembly over the crankshaft.

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Old 04-13-2014, 05:25 PM   #156
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When I ordered the new plug I also got the new o-rings for the oil supply lines so Im waiting installing the engine until those come in.

In the mean time today I made a kick stand relocation bracket. I will need to put a slight bend in the kick stand, but I think it should work pretty well (and much cheaper than an aftermarket one) I also got a new K60 and T63 mounted up. Hopefully it'll be running in the next week



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Old 04-14-2014, 05:47 AM   #157
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The generator cover plug from the XCF line fits and it is aluminum. My plastic plug always leaked. They come in grey, black and orange.


My test ride is over, 6,500 miles and only one issue, I developed a pinhole in a gas line between the T and carb. That tube isn't reinforced like the rest.

Motor runs fantastic hone yours does too.

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Old 05-02-2014, 06:31 AM   #158
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It runs!!!!

I finally got the the final bits buttoned up and fired the bike up for the first time and................it ran great

The battery was pretty dead, but about 20sec of trying and it fired right up. No leaks and everything looked good. I did not get to ride it around and still need to put on the right side body panels.

One question...............

After it warned up I checked to make sure the carbs were still synced and noticed when I gave it gas the front carb plate (not sure what its called but the CV portion of the carb that is the solid slider you see when looking down into the carb) would flutter open the faster the revs, however the back plate would not move at all. What is "normal" should they both be opening with more RPM, or neither??????

I have seen a few threads about the CV diaphragm needing to be replaced and causing popping on decel (which my bike has always done) so I wounder if that should be something I replace?

Thanks

Also......
Last year the fork seals were leaking and I was leaving for a trip so I just threw new seals in, but the bushings needed replacing. Well they are starting to leak again so I need to do it right. I cant seem to find the "kit" for the 950 and buying the individual components is pretty expensive. Are the bushing, seals wipers, etc the same as any WP open chamber fork (for example off an 08 530)? I am guessing they are but I did not know if the lowered fork on the 950 has any extra components?

COXR650L screwed with this post 05-02-2014 at 06:54 AM
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Old 05-02-2014, 08:25 AM   #159
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Yeah, Ben, it sounds like you have a bad diaphragm. They should both open at exactly the same time.
Now, maybe we can see some ride reports from you on the big 950.
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Old 05-02-2014, 08:58 AM   #160
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Quote:
Originally Posted by COXR650L View Post
One question...............

After it warned up I checked to make sure the carbs were still synced and noticed when I gave it gas the front carb plate (not sure what its called but the CV portion of the carb that is the solid slider you see when looking down into the carb) would flutter open the faster the revs, however the back plate would not move at all. What is "normal" should they both be opening with more RPM, or neither??????

I have seen a few threads about the CV diaphragm needing to be replaced and causing popping on decel (which my bike has always done) so I wounder if that should be something I replace?
I've seen sliders act funny before, such as fluttering. I think fluttering is pretty normal. Not opening is not normal. After I remove my carbs, I'll usually push the slide back manually and see if it slams shut or closes a little bit slower. If it slams shut, the spring is shoving the slide closed without being slowed down by vacuum pressure of any kind, which means that there's something wrong with the diaphram chamber.

Slides open because of vacuum pressure. The problem can be a poorly seated carb, a tear in the diaphram, a diaphram that didn't get put in just perfectly (very easy to do). I doubt that leaks in the intakes would cause a slider not to open, but check for any air leaks in your four intake ports below the carbs.
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Old 05-02-2014, 09:55 AM   #161
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Great work Ben! I love the kickstand bracket. My bike is slated for similar treatment as I can't justify spending so much money on a bent piece of bar stock.

I don't know how you feel about all balls but I've used their stuff in a few bikes with good results and these are holding the sliders up on my 950 for ~$50:

http://www.allballsracing.com/38-6077.html

At any rate the list at the bottom should give you and idea of OEM crossover.
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Old 05-02-2014, 12:53 PM   #162
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Thanks for the link Drew that looks good to me

Ya I just could not spend over $100 on a $1 piece of steel and 20min of time. I will have to put a slight bend in the kick stand to account for the flatter mount, but I feel it will be really sturdy and out of the way.

Thanks for the info on the carbs guys. I will re-check to make sure the carb is seated, but I think new diaphragms are in order. It has popped ever since I got it, but the plugs always looked good for jetting. Anyone have a source for the diaphragms? $130 seems a little absurd (ok a lot) for OEM KTM. Are they included in the carb rebuild kit sold by KTM?

Thanks
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Old 05-02-2014, 08:09 PM   #163
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Quote:
Originally Posted by COXR650L View Post
Also......
Last year the fork seals were leaking and I was leaving for a trip so I just threw new seals in, but the bushings needed replacing. Well they are starting to leak again so I need to do it right. I cant seem to find the "kit" for the 950 and buying the individual components is pretty expensive. Are the bushing, seals wipers, etc the same as any WP open chamber fork (for example off an 08 530)? I am guessing they are but I did not know if the lowered fork on the 950 has any extra components?
In theory and design they are all pretty much the same fork. My 250XCF, 250XC, 640A and 950A all look identical except the color and the axle clamping area, inside and out. A couple have external pre-load but more or less the same.

Stay away fro the MSR fork repair/seal kits. They give the same part number for both the '03 640 and 04' 950 but from KTM, one seal is a half MM or so thinner than the other, either the 640's or 950's, not sure which one. When I did both forks with MSR kits, they both failed shortly after. I re-did them with OEM factory parts and they have been happy ever since.

When I measured the new MSR bushing, it was already thinner than the worn OEM I had removed. I am told the green SKF seal are even better, I am planning to try those if (when) these start to leak again. I guess I got what I paid for.

Also, I have learned over the years that these forks can be taken apart to replace seals and bushings without loosing much oil. I learned this when I found out how much aftermarket fork seals suck.
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Old 05-17-2014, 07:46 PM   #164
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OK I finally got the new diagphrams in and installed.

Clearly the rear one was really causing an issue and had two large rips in the rubber.


Once it was all back together I went for a spin and HOLY SHIT it has transformed the bike. The power is amazing!! I have never understood why people talk about how easy the front end comes up on a 950 and I was never able to get it up with any ease. Now a slight slip of the clutch and up it goes with out any problems, even a full tank of gas which was absoultly impossible before.

I need a good shake down ride but so for the rebuild has been a success and really freshened up the bike.

Thanks for all the help and advice!

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Old 05-17-2014, 11:22 PM   #165
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Awesome news Ben!

Well for you at least, mine is still a slug so it probably needs some lovin...

Maybe I oughta check those carb diagphrams.
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