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Old 12-19-2013, 07:54 AM   #16
ICERIDER
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spencergt66 View Post
Exactly Why I ditched the DNA filter set up. Pain in the ass to clean and it seamed every time I would clean the Filter it was never 100% clean like a foam filter.
That cleaning job looks like a nightmare!

The thing is with these ITG type foam filter setups, this concept has been going for years... slap an alloy base plate across your intake and clip the ITG on top.

Both Rottweiller and SW7 have slightly different features based on that long standing system. Both are highly commended for working hard to perfect the instalation for us LC8 owners and each can claim better features over the other.

They both look so good you could flip a coin and you'd probably be delighted with the outcome if that's what you want.

Now you might as well go out and buy one like I did. Can't wait to get it.
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Old 12-19-2013, 09:15 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by laramie LC4 View Post
don't believe everything you read, this is the internet after all....

lot's of haters around that try and discount Chris's work and product.

just saying.

laters,

laramie
I did my homework Laramie before I bought, that is all.
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Old 12-19-2013, 09:21 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by tour View Post
Mousistas

Thanks for your input as this is very informative. Same but different price. Now the suasage filter to the more up right filter is there a differance or is it only the look or ease of getting to it while the SE safari tank its still in place.
Difference in performance should be nill between the different heights. Main difference is that the SE cannot take the non sausage type because of interfering with the seat pan. But you can modify the seat to fit, it is a 10min job with a dremel.
Otherwise, you have to cut down the carb intake trumpets for the sausage type, due to interference with the filter curved edges. Modifying the seat is easier though.
The higher than standard version, I believe does not fit at all due to the seat.
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Old 12-19-2013, 09:22 AM   #19
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I don't think this thread needs to go the way of the dungeon, but there are two systems out there that are similar. do your research and decide which system you prefer.

you will need to rejet your bike after installing the foam filter, make sure you include that in your purchase. Again I think each system/owner has their own take on what direction to go with jetting, so do some research on that as well. The needles are the only thing different between the jet kits (at least if you compare Factory Pro (FP) and the stock settings. You can purchase individual jets anywhere but you can only get the different needles with a kit). Jets are jets. But the knowledge of what might work better in your area will be helpful. contact vendors and purchase based on what you feel is the right response.

both systems work well, and if your main reason for changing is to go re-usable, then both will fit the bill. pick your poison. it's like debating what's better, stouts or IPA's. it's beer- just drink what you prefer. :)
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Old 12-19-2013, 11:22 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by SpeedyR View Post
pick your poison. it's like debating what's better, stouts or IPA's. it's beer- just drink what you prefer. :)


Don't forget to run "filter skins" to make your life easier and it is also cheap insurance.
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Old 12-19-2013, 11:27 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by buzybraza View Post


Don't forget to run "filter skins" to make your life easier and it is also cheap insurance.
any idea what filter skins fit on the SE "sausage" filter? the only ones I can find are the PC Racing ones and not sure what model might fit the longer filter..

http://www.pcracingusa.com/FilterSkins_c_18.html
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Old 12-19-2013, 11:34 AM   #22
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Let's be honest here...

Quote:
Originally Posted by mousitsas View Post
I did my homework Laramie before I bought, that is all.
To say both of these products are the same is completely not true. There are proprietary differences between these two systems. The CPR Rottweiler system has taken what they've learned as a high end performance and race tuner, and combined the principals of a large engine open air filter system with the differences of a motorcycle application.

And here are some very important things to keep in mind. The current CPR filter system has a different density and options then the SW standard ITG auto style filter. ( Personally, I wouldn't use or recommend an off the shelf auto style racing filter where a motor is only expected to last one race).

The CPR baseplate is designed with materials reflected in today's high tech race technology ( heat reflective, not heat absorbing) at a slightly greater expense...rather then a utilitarian approach of using simplest and cheapest material for a base plate. This approach goes against Chris's and CPR's racing and design principals.

I'm not sure if most people realize just how critical the baseplate is in this application? If you have a bad baseplate seal, no matter how well designed your filter is... If that seal is breached it negates the filter. And it puts your engine at serious risk. Granulated dust, grit and sand getting sucked through your intake, over your valves, over your rings, past your pistons, into your oil, through your bearings... You get the picture here.

CPR understands the tolerance required in making tuning parts. And Chris constantly monitors and evolves his build processes to increase their performance and the effectiveness of his products.

And he continues to evolve with his products. His Rottweiler open air filtration system for KTM LC8 Adventures spurned his snap out bracket, which spurned his Dog House lock box ( I don't know how any one could seriously argue against this being a huge upgrade to any 950/990).

Chris at CPR is continuously able to evolve his products because he is a high performance race tuning shop. He's a pro builder who makes his living pursuing high quality, high performance design/ builds.

That is his primary business, that is his reputation and as a multiple Baja Score placer, he has a strong commitment to be the best at what he does.


I, on the other hand... am not a Baja Score racer. I'm not a race tuner, nor am I in the racing parts business of any kind. I am simply a KTM Adventure owner fanatic. I too have followed the development of this open air filter systems evolution as early as Pyndon's experimentations. And for the sake of others interested in this subject, I think it's only fair to disclose what's really going on here, rather then making general observations from afar.
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Old 12-19-2013, 01:01 PM   #23
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Please, not another one of these. Keep it civil.
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Old 12-19-2013, 02:21 PM   #24
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minefield...
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Old 12-19-2013, 03:36 PM   #25
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Call and hear it from the horses mouth

Going with the foam CPR filter is for sure the way to go. Yes, there are options, but who knows if any of us have valid opinions, we are all experts in our own minds.
Call the companies yourself. Talk to the creator first at Rottweiler. I doubt you'd be wanting to pick up the phone again after speaking with Chris.
Buy a premium product from someone who has done all the R&D on the topic. CPR makes the best stuff, takes all necessary steps to make sure their products are SPECIFICALLY DESIGNED FOR YOUR BIKE, and offer above and beyond customer support as a follow up.
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Old 12-19-2013, 03:51 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpeedyR View Post
any idea what filter skins fit on the SE "sausage" filter? the only ones I can find are the PC Racing ones and not sure what model might fit the longer filter..

http://www.pcracingusa.com/FilterSkins_c_18.html
I run those very same filter skins on my "sausage" air filter. It streches a bunch and works just fine. The little tear that you see in the picture below is from my 525's spring that keeps the air filter in place.
itgskin1 photo filteronwskin3_zps12e74ed1.jpg
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Old 12-19-2013, 05:21 PM   #27
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That sounds like a plan! I'm surprised at how much room there is above the filter. How much is taken off the rear trumpet to fit the sausage filter?

For the guys running the normal non-sausage filter on the SE, do you have to take much off the seat base to fit? And can you run the foam sock as opposed to the thin skin?

Last question.. do you need Flexjets or are you able to reach under a Safari?

Thanks.
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Old 12-19-2013, 05:58 PM   #28
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I have the 'wood version on my SE with PowerCell's tank. Seeing that the tank was based off the SM version, I went for the standard filter and not the sausage version. The tank touches the plastic framework of the itg filter. I had looked at spacing the rear of the tank up a little to accommodate the filter as I did not want to cut the trumpets.

As of right now I'm too hooked on the intake noise to fix it just yet.
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Old 12-19-2013, 06:02 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith View Post
I have the 'wood version on my SE with PowerCell's tank. Seeing that the tank was based off the SM version, I went for the standard filter and not the sausage version. The tank touches the plastic framework of the itg filter. I had looked at spacing the rear of the tank up a little to accommodate the filter as I did not want to cut the trumpets.

As of right now I'm too hooked on the intake noise to fix it just yet.
Ha! Yes I believe the noise is something else! Thanks for your info on the Powercell tank.
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Old 12-19-2013, 09:00 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spencergt66 View Post
Exactly Why I ditched the DNA filter set up. Pain in the ass to clean and it seamed every time I would clean the Filter it was never 100% clean like a foam filter.
This style of filter is the easiest to clean.
Hold it up, run the cleaning soloution from the clean side through to the dirt side and it's CLEAN.

You can do it without even getting your hands dirty.
Foam filters SUCK TO CLEAN.

Your results may differ

in 45,000k of riding, much of it (if not most of it) was in the dirt. Never any traces of dust in the carbs or anywhere on the filtered side of the system
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